Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA

[68bowtie]

Those floors and rockers are unreal. Really well done.

You said it’s a cut down longbed? Can you post pictures of where the bedsides were cut?

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

Those floors and rockers are unreal. Really well done.

You said it’s a cut down longbed? Can you post pictures of where the bedsides were cut?

I don’t see any evidence of where it was cut (that goes for the frame and the bedsides). When I get under it, I’ll probe around more and take some pics.

[Luke87gt]

I ordered all the tune up parts between RockAuto and Monument.

One question: For the coil, do the parts distributors identify points as “breaker points” ? That seems to be how most of the coils were listed. I went with Blue Streak for the coil.

Also, not sure if this is recommended but for the carb rebuild kit I went with Standard Motor Products #1573A

https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1310233&parttype=5964

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

I ordered all the tune up parts between RockAuto and Monument.

One question: For the coil, do the parts distributors identify points as “breaker points” ? That seems to be how most of the coils were listed. I went with Blue Streak for the coil.

Also, not sure if this is recommended but for the carb rebuild kit I went with Standard Motor Products #1573A

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breaker points or "ignition breaker points" is what they seem to call those, yes

I used that brand rebuild kit for my Quadrajet and had no problems with it.

[68bowtie]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

I don’t see any evidence of where it was cut (that goes for the frame and the bedsides). When I get under it, I’ll probe around more and take some pics.

A typical giveaway is most people that cut them down leave the center stake bed pockets. If there are 6 it’s a cut down longbed. If there are 4 (and no evidence of being worked on) then it’s probably a factory shortbed.

Also, you mentioned you bought this from a 80-year-old that doesn’t seem like the type of person to cut one down.

Until you prove to me otherwise, I’m thinking this is a factory short bed ha ha

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I'm not familiar with the MonoJet, but since it's leaking I'd put in a new float in case the one you have has sunk.

[MikeB]

About the steering wheel. My 69 came with a 17" wheel, which was nice to have until I converted to power steering. I think a 13" wheel would take a linebacker to turn w/o power steering!

[Luke87gt]

Registering the truck in CA has turned into quite the project in itself.

I took the papers to the DMV to register the truck. They told me I need to bring the truck in for vin verification. I told them it’s not running well enough yet to do that.

They then recommend I call the CHP for the vin verification. Of course the CHP doesn’t do house calls. OK so I hire a private Vin verification company that is mobile and comes to my house. $160 later, the vin is verified.

I go back to the DMV and they indicate that because the vehicle is a pickup, it is classified as a “commercial vehicle” and must be weighed at a certified station 🤦*♂️

Not sure what to do now given the car doesn’t yet run good enough to be mobile under its own power. This is turning into quite the hassle. Thanks California!

[yuccales]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

This is turning into quite the hassle. Thanks California!

Don't give up!

[Luke87gt]

Did pick up a very nice set of 15x8 (4.0” BS) Rally wheels locally here today.

Now I need to find a set of 275/60/15 tires to go on em.

[Luke87gt]

Huh? No bulb or wiring? Any ideas?

😀

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Huh? No bulb or wiring? Any ideas?

��

'69 has reflectors rather than actual lights from the factory.

.....or maybe an option depending on the package: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=503138

[MARKDTN]

Nice!

I do like a GM HEI distributor. I looked on Ebay and there are 2 used ones. 1 has no picture, the other is aftermarket so that's probably no good. I looked on Car-part.com for a 1980 C10 250 Federal Emissions distributor and they seem to be out there for around $50. You would want to change cap and rotor, plug wires, and change or at least re-gap the spark plugs. You would have to run a wire from the firewall to it to replace the original resistance wire.

[3drburb]

That is a very nice solid truck.

[3drburb]

I really don't think this one was a long bed cut down to a short bed.
Any pictures of the bed?

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by 3drburb

I really don't think this one was a long bed cut down to a short bed.
Any pictures of the bed?

I’ll get some pics

Vin shows LWB. Owner indicated it was cut by a fabricator many years ago.

Appears to have been done well.

[Luke87gt]

I ordered a rear chrome sport bumper today.

What I realized though is that I seem to be missing the brackets that bolt to that bumper?

Any recommendations where to pick that up? I hope I don’t have some complications as a result of this being a converted short bed? Might have to drill some bracket holes?

[Luke87gt]

I’m thinking my first project should be to remove the gas tank and replace the filler neck seal, soft line, and flush the tank. I have reason to believe there is gas in there that’s a decade+ old.

Can anyone provide a procedure on how to best flush the tank?

Also, while its out, should I service the sending unit in any way (besides a new gasket)?

Any other tips you have while I’m in there would be appreciated. Thanks

[PanhandleShantyman]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

I’m thinking my first project should be to remove the gas tank and replace the filler neck seal, soft line, and flush the tank. I have reason to believe there is gas in there that’s a decade+ old.

Can anyone provide a procedure on how to best flush the tank?

Also, while its out, should I service the sending unit in any way (besides a new gasket)?

Any other tips you have while I’m in there would be appreciated. Thanks

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

I’m thinking my first project should be to remove the gas tank and replace the filler neck seal, soft line, and flush the tank. I have reason to believe there is gas in there that’s a decade+ old.

Can anyone provide a procedure on how to best flush the tank?

Also, while its out, should I service the sending unit in any way (besides a new gasket)?

Any other tips you have while I’m in there would be appreciated. Thanks

If you're going to pull the tank, you might think about whether you're interested in relocating the tank while you're at it. I know that some guys who don't like the idea of sitting directly in front of the gas tank take it out and put a replacement in the back.

I'm a newbie to these trucks too, and like you I'm new to these old school carbureted / points systems, so if I could pass on 3 very basic things I learned in the last few months getting my '69 from "barely runs" to "daily driver," and that could have saved me grief if I'd known them sooner, they'd be:

1: don't do anything else until you have a CLEAN , SAFE fuel supply. Clogged carb fuel passages are a pain, and fires are even worse... you're right to start where you are with the fuel lines and gas tank.
2: My timing light and vacuum gauge became my best friends. My truck backfired, dieseled, started hard, idled crazy... part of it was timing way off, and the rest was a vacuum leak. If I hadn't learned how to use the timing light and vacuum gauge, I probably would have spent weeks blaming everything on the carburetor and never gotten anywhere. (Before you dive into a carb rebuild you might want to see how far you can get with just setting timing and idle adjustments for good vacuum and then putting in fresh spark plugs/wires.)
3. Almost every problem I've had with an electrical item not working on my truck has been due to lack of ground, usually just due to grime and corrosion where the device housing attaches to the body of the truck.

Happy wrenching! That's a nice looking truck you have there.

-Will

[TimUK]

Getting my C10 from the seller in San Jose to home required 4 stoppages on the shoulder of various freeways and an eventual ride on a tow truck. It was 105 at the time.
I replaced the tank, The fuel sender was really crusted and its filter missing. Putting the fuel sender back in the tank with a new gasket was tricky. There is a tool.......but I fought it in. The tank was full of crud. There were two additional tanks in the rear wheelarches and a three way valve under the drivers seat. The lines were brittle plastic. You could break them with your fingers. I replaced all the existing rubber line connectors. Getting the tank out is easier with two people.

I wish I had sat down and set a goal of what I wanted my truck to be when I finished it before I started. It was my first project. I went at it a bit piecemeal and ended, over two years, with redoing things and buying more parts that I could have avoided if I had had a plan!! I have learned at lot though!

Good luck.

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by PanhandleShantyman

If you're going to pull the tank, you might think about whether you're interested in relocating the tank while you're at it. I know that some guys who don't like the idea of sitting directly in front of the gas tank take it out and put a replacement in the back.

I'm a newbie to these trucks too, and like you I'm new to these old school carbureted / points systems, so if I could pass on 3 very basic things I learned in the last few months getting my '69 from "barely runs" to "daily driver," and that could have saved me grief if I'd known them sooner, they'd be:

1: don't do anything else until you have a CLEAN , SAFE fuel supply. Clogged carb fuel passages are a pain, and fires are even worse... you're right to start where you are with the fuel lines and gas tank.
2: My timing light and vacuum gauge became my best friends. My truck backfired, dieseled, started hard, idled crazy... part of it was timing way off, and the rest was a vacuum leak. If I hadn't learned how to use the timing light and vacuum gauge, I probably would have spent weeks blaming everything on the carburetor and never gotten anywhere. (Before you dive into a carb rebuild you might want to see how far you can get with just setting timing and idle adjustments for good vacuum and then putting in fresh spark plugs/wires.)
3. Almost every problem I've had with an electrical item not working on my truck has been due to lack of ground, usually just due to grime and corrosion where the device housing attaches to the body of the truck.

Happy wrenching! That's a nice looking truck you have there.

-Will

I think the items listed one two and three are top notch advice. The idea of relocating the tank sounds a little ahead of the game based on the rest of the information. Might be worth considering if you feel like you need to buy a new tank. Barring that, it seems like your plan of getting it going with the existing components is a solid one.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Replace the "sock" filter on the intake side of the sender unit as well. I guess make sure the float hasn't leaked and check the resistance on the sender while it's out.
Pardon me if I'm repeating stuff...

[Luke87gt]

Thank you all

Given the age and how long the car sat, I’m tempted to get a new tank

If I go that route, any trusted sources I should consider that are proven to fit and function well?

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Thank you all

Given the age and how long the car sat, I’m tempted to get a new tank

If I go that route, any trusted sources I should consider that are proven to fit and function well?

O'Reilly auto parts. Spectre brand or something like that. Made in Canada. Fit perfect had it in 2 days. Didn't have to pay shipping.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

I ordered a rear chrome sport bumper today.

What I realized though is that I seem to be missing the brackets that bolt to that bumper?

Any recommendations where to pick that up? I hope I don’t have some complications as a result of this being a converted short bed? Might have to drill some bracket holes?

Wow, that truck looks real clean, how's the rust situation, cuz I don't see any. And a SWB too, very cool.

Some really great advice above. Other than that, if you drop an HEI in there, word is to gap the sparks plugs a pinch greater than specs. HEI are awesome, I'm using the same Delco I pulled in 1993 off a 1975ish.

Rear bumper. Well, you need to know the bolt pattern in your frame rails, for brackets. It's probably 5.0" or 7.1" IMO, and if so, the outer brackets are the same, while the inners are per the frame rails. If you have rear leaf springs, then it's a 5.3" pattern, and I can tell you how to modify an available set, cuz you sure as heck won't find them.