Cgt project

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by vet57air

So this what I did for tire clearance. I cut 5/8" out and left 1/2". I then welded some 3/16" x 1/2" FB on top for added strength. By leaving the 1/2" I didn't cut through any spot welds. The braces then had to be lengthened and welded. Seems like a lot of work but if you have a large wheel and tire (31" tall) at this ride height you need all the room you can get.

Yep. Thats what I had in mind. Trim back just to the edge of the spot welds (~.625") and reinforce the remaining lip for reassurance. I haven't decided on bolt-in or welding the reinforcement.

[vet57air]

Almost done my fabricating, details. Battery box and transmission cooler mount.

[vet57air]

Please help. Going out of my mind with my rear wheels. They are 22 x 12. I went with this backspace because sometimes when you have little backspace you loose the look of the wheel as all you see is lip. Not sure if I have enough lip. Am willing to change out the rear wheels but I cannot make up my mind. What do you think? Opinions...

[SCOTI]

Looks good from here.
What are the F/R back space numbers?

[vet57air]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Looks good from here.
What are the F/R back space numbers?

F is 5.5 on a 9" wheel. Has clearance lock to lock, at this ride height.
R is 7 on a 12" wheel. If I change it would go down to 4" backspace.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by vet57air

F is 5.5 on a 9" wheel. Has clearance lock to lock, at this ride height.
R is 7 on a 12" wheel. If I change it would go down to 4" backspace.

Yikes.... 4" backspacing on a 12" wheel is closing in on race car/Pro Street territory. I'm ok w/about 4"BS on a 10. Beyond that the wheel detail seems to be lost (especially on these 6x-66 trucks). So 10"/4"bs; 11"/5"bs; 12"/6"bs.... You're pretty much spot-on where I feel the 'look' is now but thats a personal thing.

[vet57air]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Yikes.... 4" backspacing on a 12" wheel is closing in on race car/Pro Street territory. I'm ok w/about 4"BS on a 10. Beyond that the wheel detail seems to be lost (especially on these 6x-66 trucks). So 10"/4"bs; 11"/5"bs; 12"/6"bs.... You're pretty much spot-on where I feel the 'look' is now but thats a personal thing.

Thank you for your opinion. Those were some of the reasons I went the way I did. Yes it is a personal thing, but want to see what others think.
I want my truck to handle. Yes 22's are not optimal for that, but I like the look. My front track width is 59" so when designing my frame I went with 59" for the axle because somewhere I read this is good. Set the B.S. on the wheels to fit my suspension. ( some do it the other way around).

[aggie91]

Personally I like your set up now with the lesser lip so the detail of the wheel center is more clearly seen. I agree with Scoti's comments on bs measurements.

I think the big lip trend is going to play out at sometime, but the lesser lip/more center detail is timeless.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by vet57air

Thank you for your opinion. Those were some of the reasons I went the way I did. Yes it is a personal thing, but want to see what others think.
I want my truck to handle. Yes 22's are not optimal for that, but I like the look. My front track width is 59" so when designing my frame I went with 59" for the axle because somewhere I read this is good. Set the B.S. on the wheels to fit my suspension. ( some do it the other way around).

My plan (according to MY math) is 10.5" w/4"BS on the rear. I know the housing is ~58" but I can't remember if that was w/the rotors on or not when I measured for a 'true' WMS-to-WMS dimension. So..... It could be it was slightly over the 58" mark. I know I'm under 59" max.

My front track width should be 60-61" (OE truck disc brake fronts @ 64; PB Dropmember -1.5", PB 1" narrowed arms, & CPP modular spindles -.5 x2= 60.5"). Wheels will be 8-9" w/5.25 - 5.50"BS.

I think your set-up will work well.

[vet57air]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

My plan (according to MY math) is 10.5" w/4"BS on the rear. I know the housing is ~58" but I can't remember if that was w/the rotors on or not when I measured for a 'true' WMS-to-WMS dimension. So..... It could be it was slightly over the 58" mark. I know I'm under 59" max.

My front track width should be 60-61" (OE truck disc brake fronts @ 64; PB Dropmember -1.5", PB 1" narrowed arms, & CPP modular spindles -.5 x2= 60.5"). Wheels will be 8-9" w/5.25 - 5.50"BS.

I think your set-up will work well.

What diameter wheels will you run? What year of truck?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by vet57air

What diameter wheels will you run? What year of truck?

20's & it's a 64 short fleet.

[vet57air]

Finally received the parts I needed for the steering. Never had to use 4 joints before ( two doubles). My frame manufacturer laid back the rack making the conntection more complicated.

[SCOTI]

Wow.... You had to utilize two different support bearings.

[vet57air]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Wow.... You had to utilize two different support bearings.

For every universal over 2 you need a support bearing. Would have been dead easy if the frame guy had the rack mounted "straight up" rather than angled.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by vet57air

For every universal over 2 you need a support bearing. Would have been dead easy if the frame guy had the rack mounted "straight up" rather than angled.

I guess they figured exhaust would be easier w/the steering routed low & under the motor-mount tower.

[vet57air]

Doing body gaps. Pretty happy with door and fender gaps. Have the hood and cowl pieces left. I like the gap between the hood and fenders but the cowl is high. Anyone have any tricks besides me slicing the cowl piece?

[Hammered 77]

Just found your build. Nice work!! Do you have enough clearance to allow for a 4" back space on the rear wheel?

Rick

[vet57air]

Originally Posted by Hammered 77

Just found your build. Nice work!! Do you have enough clearance to allow for a 4" back space on the rear wheel?

Rick

Yes

[vet57air]

My new full time job.....my body and paint. Done all the body work and gaps. Just put some high build on the cab and now some blocking.

[Warrens69GMC]

Nice, How did I miss this?

[SCOTI]

Well.... I guess that's good. Work detail should easily pass ownership QC. But then again I've heard when the same person wears both hats (owner & QC) there can be a struggle.

[vet57air]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Well.... I guess that's good. Work detail should easily pass ownership QC. But then again I've heard when the same person wears both hats (owner & QC) there can be a struggle.

Don't get me wrong, I hate body work. I do it out of necessity. I'm pretty picky detailed kind of guy and can't afford to pay someone to do it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by vet57air

Don't get me wrong, I hate body work. I do it out of necessity. I'm pretty picky detailed kind of guy and can't afford to pay someone to do it.

I get it. I can/have done body-work so I understand what it takes and learned because I knew I wouldn't be able to pay the going rate for the quality I expected.

My #1 problem always was knowing when to stop & that it was 'good'. Heck, it still is. This also is a factor in why I seek out clean, patina, survivors so I can live w/how it came from GM

[vet57air]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I get it. I can/have done body-work so I understand what it takes and learned because I knew I wouldn't be able to pay the going rate for the quality I expected.

My #1 problem always was knowing when to stop & that it was 'good'. Heck, it still is. This also is a factor in why I seek out clean, patina, survivors so I can live w/how it came from GM

I get what your saying. I did consider buying a nice original paint SWB truck but the price kind of killed that, not to mention all the mods I wanted to do didn't make it practical. I have come to grips with building a show worthy truck and driving the wheels off it. Truthfully I have done this before. I just had to get it clear in my mind that when you drive it, **** happens..... then you fix it. My 1954 COE Tourliner is a good example. I finished it 10 years ago and have put 20,000 miles on it and it still looks fresh.
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[88Stanger]

Beautiful work, its as simple as that.