25$ paintjob?

[8mpg]

meh...I'll stick to the $7 paint job on a beater...just isnt worth it to me to invest all that time and money. My mustang has MINIMAL prep and it looks decent. Its no show car, but its a good 10 footer.

Rustoleum has its time and place...
a long project car you have dedicated years to..no
a show car.. no
pride and joy.. no

beater to pick up parts..YES
daily driver.. YES

[toomanytoyz]

Here is a Complete BC/CC Paint Kit for $ 200.00............

Rick

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMPL...1905QQtcZphoto

[Mike 85]

Guess they figure it's a perfectly straight body.
No mention of any 2K primer for blocking.
Just etch primer and that sure won't fill much,besides being old tech and you sure don't want to spray that over an existing paint job if it's a repaint.
Only Xtream (aka 5 Star) clear I've shot was junk.
Another "Buyer Beware" deal. You "get" what you pay for in the paint business and your not getting much with this. Looks to me that it would be just enough to do a beater and it would look like crap with that nice shiny clear over all those dents and dings which you'll see every one of.
Sorry but on the Deal or Dud show,
This ones a Dud.
Now, If you wanted to pick up the "kit" get some 2K primer,filler,and all the "other" stuff like SANDPAPER,you "could" actually end up with a good 10 footer.

[MDC]

Carpainter and Don, thank you finally. This is what I was looking for.
I will find a friendly automotive paint supplier for any remaining questions and leave Shane to paint his grandmother's furniture with whatever he deems as fit.

[vintagesteel]

Originally Posted by Mike 85

Guess they figure it's a perfectly straight body.
No mention of any 2K primer for blocking.
Just etch primer and that sure won't fill much,besides being old tech and you sure don't want to spray that over an existing paint job if it's a repaint.
Only Xtream (aka 5 Star) clear I've shot was junk.
Another "Buyer Beware" deal. You "get" what you pay for in the paint business and your not getting much with this. Looks to me that it would be just enough to do a beater and it would look like crap with that nice shiny clear over all those dents and dings which you'll see every one of.
Sorry but on the Deal or Dud show,
This ones a Dud.
Now, If you wanted to pick up the "kit" get some 2K primer,filler,and all the "other" stuff like SANDPAPER,you "could" actually end up with a good 10 footer.

Did you read the description. "The highest quality money can buy". A sucker is born every day! And somebody has a 300 million dollar RACE CAR? How can they give you a 100% satisfaction guaranty? Are you supposed to sand all the paint back off and send it to them if you don't like, or are they just supposed to take your word that you dont like and give your money back. NEVER buy stuff like this from ebay. Who are you supposed to call if you have problems? NOBODY. Buy from a reputable dealer. Then you have technical support, you have somewhere to go if you run out, etc...

[Shane]

Your welcome.

[toomanytoyz]

vintagesteel & Mike 85

1st of all Let me say that I respect the Knowledge that you Guy's are willing to Share with the Board ..............

I posted that Link as an alternative to the Other Paint Method's Mentioned, I Have a Friend who used this Kit on a Camaro & Was Quite Pleased with the Results. They do list a Contact Phone # & He did have some Problem with the Clear as Mentioned, He called to Discuss Problems with them & They Gave some Recomendations to Try & Also sent another Gallon of the Clear.................

I would not have Posted it w/out having some Knowledge of it & Feel that it is a Alternate Choice to the Mentioned Method.

Rick

[vintagesteel]

I never said anything bad about the paint. I have actually shot the xtreme clear on a job I did and I liked it.I paid $72.00 for a gallon of clear and activator.(maybe Mike got a bad batch or I got a good one)But I went into the job KNOWING the products were a compromise. I respect the seller for actually standing behind the product. That is extremely rare on ebay. That place needs to be noted as a viable source. But I WILL stand by my comments on their discription. To compare them selves to House of Kolor is a JOKE. And to suggest they are highest quality money can buy. GIVE ME A BREAK. Maybe we need to start a section on economical alternatives to high end jobs(NOT RUSTOLEUM).That way buget minded builders have an idea what there options are for materials. God knows I don't alway have the money for the high end stuff.But when I do I use it.

[vintagesteel]

Also it must be noted like Mike85 said. This is JUST paint. You still have to buy primer, body filler, sand paper, etc... So now you are at what I posted earier about a budget job of @$500.00 in materials.

[69face]

Originally Posted by vintagesteel

This is exactly what I'm talking about.Lot of time and money spent on this car. Engine, trans, wheels, tires, supension. Oh, then $20 on paint job. Looks like an after thought. I would walk right by this car and all I would think is nice wheels. Nobody I know would give this car a second look. And THAT IS A SHAME! This car deserves more. $500.00 in materials is all it would have taken to make this car stand out. Or you could have preped and shot the car in epoxy prime and saved for a paint job.(I'm sure you're like most of us and had to save for what you've done.) If I can figure out why I can't post a picture i'll show you why.

THE THING THAT YOU DIDN'T(OR WON'T) UNDERSTAND ABOUT THIS CAR AND MANY OTHERS USING THIS METHOD, WHICH IS VERY OBVIOUS TO MOST. THIS IS A DRIVER AND YOU WALKING BY IT WOULDN'T MATTER AT ALL. WHAT YOU OR ANYONE YOU KNOW THINKS OF THE PAINT ALSO DOESN'T MATTER. DRIVER MEANS DRIVEN!!! BY THE WAY "TO EACH HIS OWN", THE CAR SOLD FOR DOUBLE WHAT I INVESTED. BELIEVE ME WHEN I TELL YOU I KNOW REAL PAINT AND HAVE USED PPG, DUPONT, ETC. WITH GREAT RESULTS, BUT THAT CAR NEEDED OUTPATIENT SURGERY LIKE NO OTHER CANCER PATIENT HAS SEEN. THAT PAINT TO ME WAS A SORT OF EPOXY PRIMER JUST LESS EXPENSIVE

[69face]

Originally Posted by 8mpg

meh...i'll stick to the $7 paint job on a beater...just isnt worth it to me to invest all that time and money. My mustang has minimal prep and it looks decent. Its no show car, but its a good 10 footer.

Rustoleum has its time and place...
A long project car you have dedicated years to..no
a show car.. No
pride and joy.. No

beater to pick up parts..yes
daily driver.. Yes

agreed 100%^^^^^^

[my67chevytruck]

FYI,

from my experience.... just epoxy prime the vehicle and drive it for as long as you need to , to save up for a good paintjob you will be happy with. I did this for several years on my 56. so many years in fact that i payed a body shop a lil $ to sand and respray to keep protecting it longer. I have tried the cheaper paint jobs in the past on a '84 blazer because i didnt know better, but i would not go down that road again.

good luck with what ever direction you choose to go with!

[D13]

My tractor (not the one in the sig) has hardened Rusto paint. And it works great. But it only sees the sun 20 hours a year, and never rain.
Painted my buddy's 70 impala with silver and blue Rusto, worked great on a collge kid beater. Kept the metal from rusting for 10 years.
Won't catch it on my 82 GMC, might see it on my 2-ton scrapper truck, just to keep the water off.

I personally would never roller paint, I've seen the results on several tractors and it's just not where I want to be. $20 HF gravity gun is better.

Interstingly, the comment about the prep cost and time are right on. I have a lot of hours in prep, and sandpaper and bondo etc on my nice truck. It would be a shame to cover it with $25 paint. Now the farm truck, as long as I stay dry and warm, I don't care. $5 paint is great for keeping off the rust where the fence scratched it. And in 20 years it'll be an antique...

[94tx]

Since we're on the topic of inexpensive paint jobs, what would the "best" way to get my truck all one color be? I know rustoleum is never going to be better than a pro job, but it sucks being a student. I'm not looking for a paint job that'll stop someone walking by, but rather have someone walk by notice no two panels on my truck are the same color.

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

FYI,

from my experience.... just epoxy prime the vehicle and drive it for as long as you need to , to save up for a good paintjob you will be happy with. I did this for several years on my 56. so many years in fact that i payed a body shop a lil $ to sand and respray to keep protecting it longer. I have tried the cheaper paint jobs in the past on a '84 blazer because i didnt know better, but i would not go down that road again.

good luck with what ever direction you choose to go with!

When doing an epoxy primer, do you need to talk the truck to bare metal?

[vintagesteel]

Cheapest way if you cant paint or don't have a place to paint is maaco. you can save money by preping the truck your self. sand, remove trim ect... $300-400(probably cheaper) and your done. Or, If you have someplace you can do the work, Buy a gallon of epoxy(white, grey, black, or buff(tan)), prep the truck, and prime. Then when you have the time and money, you can work on a panel at a time. When you are done with the body work just reprime that panel. Then you can prep the truck the final time and save yourself somemore money and have a good shop paint it. A whole lot cheaper than having a shop do it all.

[rayce08]

well heres my 2 cents , take for what its worth , i tto was very doubtful of the whole roll paint job thing , who would ever do that , ive seen peoples roll on job and and thought it was sub-par at best
i read the whole moparts thread and wondered why some looked great while others looked like ass , must be the person , some people just cant do certain things
i thought id try , using topside marine paint , rolled on with high density rollers , u be the judge , im a picky person like most of us , i was very suprised , very smooth , no orange peel and hard as a rock , cant speak for the uv protection but it does say it has uv protection in the paint , i cut and buffed with menzerna intensive polish , then final polish 2 .... the date is wrong on the pics , this was from a week ago ...

[Eddie H.]

I have thought about the idea of trying some marine paint as an alternative to automotive paint. It's less expensive and seems to hold up pretty well on boats? I think it would be far superior to rustoleum.

[Imacarguytoo]

When this post came about on the mopar forum i was all over it. Well i repainted the top of my cab white and my hood yellow. The paint turned out really nice. Smooth and glossy. Now it was soft for a long time. I just set the truck outside in the sun for the summer and now its rock hard. My wife cant scratch it with her nails. I used the roller method with great reesults. When the truck is ready for paint i will be spraying the same paint. Guys you cant beat this way of doing it cheap. Yes its time consuming but for the money and the results its worth it. If rustoleum didnt work for looks and ever lasting good results they would not still be making the paint. If i get a chance i will get some pics. Oh and my brother in law paints his camper, and boat trailer the same way. Now take it from me. If it looks like crap he would not be doing it. I have never met anyone so anal as him.

[rayce08]

my method was hard as a rock every day a coat dried , maybe it was the paint or the amount thinned , or the air temp , i dont know .

[69face]

Originally Posted by rayce08

my method was hard as a rock every day a coat dried , maybe it was the paint or the amount thinned , or the air temp , i dont know .

from my experience, the thinner (mineral spirits or acetone) is what makes it softer and take longer to dry. the acetone take longer than mineral spirits in my research/experience. the less of each that you use the faster dry time

[vintagesteel]

Originally Posted by 69face

from my experience, the thinner (mineral spirits or acetone) is what makes it softer and take longer to dry. the acetone take longer than mineral spirits in my research/experience. the less of each that you use the faster dry time

Rayce08 also used Topside Marine paint not rustoleum

[69long"n"low]

Im in the marine industry and the paints definatly arent cheap. I dont know how well they would work on metal because most of them are designed for wood or fiberglass. Thay would hold up to the elements good though, if youve ever seen a boat in saltwater for 8 months come out lol.

[vintagesteel]

Originally Posted by vintagesteel

Rayce08 also used Topside Marine paint not rustoleum

I'll correct myself, after looking it up, topside is rustoleum's marine version.

[tonythezeek]

I have a question but i'm going to try to be careful as to not step on any toes due to the (ahem) explosive nature of this thread.

Does this (not using roller/spray can) apply to primer? I picked up a can to protect some parts that i completely sanded down to bare metal and the cans did say that they were automotive primer. Mind you, I wouldn't stop there in regards to a finish and was thinking that this would be a good/economical step in regards to preliminary protection buuuuuuuuut I'm beginning to think I've done something wrong. Will have to check as to the brand of primer for I believe this will probably aid you guys in answering my question.

And to reiterate, this [method] was not intended to be the final coat, just wanted to fight the rust.

[Richard8971]

Originally Posted by tonythezeek

I have a question but i'm going to try to be careful as to not step on any toes due to the (ahem) explosive nature of this thread.

Does this (not using roller/spray can) apply to primer? I picked up a can to protect some parts that i completely sanded down to bare metal and the cans did say that they were automotive primer. Mind you, I wouldn't stop there in regards to a finish and was thinking that this would be a good/economical step in regards to preliminary protection buuuuuuuuut I'm beginning to think I've done something wrong. Will have to check as to the brand of primer for I believe this will probably aid you guys in answering my question.

And to reiterate, this [method] was not intended to be the final coat, just wanted to fight the rust.

LOL. Explosive huh? Naaahhhhhhh.

The only problem I can see from using anything out of a can is the fact that it is a lacquer or non-catalyzed enamel based product, even "automotive grade" primers in a can.

Now, that being said, I have shot gallons upon gallons of lacquer primer in my time. (Out of a spray gun) Yes, it can be used, but ask yourself this. Now that better primers are available (IE 2K, catalyzed) why would you want too? A decent 2K primer is 1000's times better than anything you can get out of a can, and honestly? not that much more expensive.

Check with your local Dupont/Nason dealer. They sell a Nason 2K primer which I was told was the old Dupont URO prime. (Someone please chime in if I am incorrect on this...) For about 30-40 bucks you can have a little more than a quart sprayable and it is a very good product for the money. Remember you only get a few ounces in a spray can and the "decent" stuff costs 4-7 bucks a can! Really doesn't add up. Besides, you will have to sand off the spray can stuff later anyway when you are ready to paint your truck. Not really worth it in the end. With a good 2K primer, you final sand and you are ready for paint!

My advice, find a cheap spray gun and decent little compressor and spend just a little more for better paint supplies. You will thank me later.

Don