Freshly rebuilt 350 burning oil and tappet noise.

[gavotter333]

Originally Posted by sflanagan

Thanks for the good reference to bako..lol. Some people just think it's the armpit of the state and stay away from it. It sounds like you got a taste of "the good ole boy" mentality. I try to do the same when I see stranded motorists. I've had my fair share of breakdowns with my truck and it's nice to get help!!

As for the builder I do have a pretty good idea who it is like you said. Especially since he' been helpin you throughout the troubles. I hope you can get to the bottom of your problem soon!! Keep us posted on what it was...

I will indeed let you know how I get on. MLK day today so time was wasted with no one at work. Hopefully tomorrow people will be able to peel there eyes off the TV ...

[68GMC454]

ive always been told not to run penziol unless im goign to run only penziol.. been told by a few mechanics in the past that is will not mix with other oils.. not sure what they meant exactly bu ti fgred it just didnt mix with other brands of oil... glad to hear the builder is working with you the way he is... hope you get it fixed

[WorkinLonghorn]

making horrid noises when you try to accelerate.

I've got news;if the noise gets louder when you give it gas it's not just a valve-train problem. See my 1st post.

[gavotter333]

Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn

I've got news;if the noise gets louder when you give it gas it's not just a valve-train problem. See my 1st post.

If its not just a valve train problem then what is it. Major mechanical failure is pretty broad. My definition of major mechanical failure is a piston out of the block or pretty much what happened to the original engine where 3 cylinders had the exhaust valves mushroom into the pistons and really cause some serious damage. Bent lifters punctured pistons bent rods and twisted rockers. This was also a product of over 100 miles an hour in a 3 speed with a Mexican built crate engine that I had done many may trouble free miles in. I had to get out of the way of a semi that decided to start changing lanes into me on a 2 lane freeway. He did not see me and I had to absolutely floor it. If i had slammed on the brakes I would not be typing this message and there would be a 35 year old classic truck buried on top of me.

There is no water in oil or oil in water it runs at the correct temperature , even in the freezing temperatures here at the moment. The oil pressure is totally normal and there are no horrible clouds of black smoke bellowing out of the exhaust. 7 days ago it was ready to race. Then the timing was put back and oil was changed to a different type to try and combat the oil burning issue and then the rest happened. I replaced the spark leads as it could have been that simple. It is not.

You need to remember it still starts and will drive. And it still has plenty of kick. I am just not prepared to drive it as it all gets horribly noisy if you push it. I have looked at the valves and it looks like a flat cam lobe(although that would have happened in under 40 miles) or a collapsed lifter.

It could be anything however I will not know until we see if the lifter will work again. If it will not then likely the cam and if not that by that time it will be in a million pieces and more than likely back where it was built.

Fingers crossed.

[71 super]

Is cam solid or hyd? It is possible that you have bent a push rod causing the rocker not to move- especially if the motor has turnd some rpm and needed readjustment. Crank the motor and listen to the noise using a piece of broom handle or water hose or a engine stethoscope. If you have a timing light and the hose etc. you can quickly isolate if it is in fact valve train or lower end. With light hooked up and working listen to noise with hose etc. if noise is 2x as fast as crank rotation it is valve train, if it is in time with the flash it is lower end problems. Valve train issues will create the rough running you have described and if one push rod is bent chances are other are as well, if they are not hardened they will break and can fall into the lower half causing other problems. As for the oil consumption, what type of rings did the guy use in the engine? If he used chrome moly, they can be a bi--h to seat sometimes, in the shop I used to work at in a past life a set was installed in a 390 ford engine that never did seat properly, ended up going to standard iron to get the oil consumption to stop. 5 grand seems like alot of money for and engine especially after seeing no roller rockers and what looks like regular proformer intake. What has been done to the engine to justify the cost- I realize port and polish stainless valves but goods heads run about $1200-1800 where did they spend the rest? Not trying to be mean or nosey but seems high for what I see in your pics,it would also help to know cam specs.

[gavotter333]

Originally Posted by 71 super

Is cam solid or hyd? It is possible that you have bent a push rod causing the rocker not to move- especially if the motor has turnd some rpm and needed readjustment. Crank the motor and listen to the noise using a piece of broom handle or water hose or a engine stethoscope. If you have a timing light and the hose etc. you can quickly isolate if it is in fact valve train or lower end. With light hooked up and working listen to noise with hose etc. if noise is 2x as fast as crank rotation it is valve train, if it is in time with the flash it is lower end problems. Valve train issues will create the rough running you have described and if one push rod is bent chances are other are as well, if they are not hardened they will break and can fall into the lower half causing other problems. As for the oil consumption, what type of rings did the guy use in the engine? If he used chrome moly, they can be a bi--h to seat sometimes, in the shop I used to work at in a past life a set was installed in a 390 ford engine that never did seat properly, ended up going to standard iron to get the oil consumption to stop. 5 grand seems like alot of money for and engine especially after seeing no roller rockers and what looks like regular proformer intake. What has been done to the engine to justify the cost- I realize port and polish stainless valves but goods heads run about $1200-1800 where did they spend the rest? Not trying to be mean or nosey but seems high for what I see in your pics,it would also help to know cam specs.

Thank you for the suggestions for this. These are things that I can do tomorrow and see what I find. Ill let you all know what I find.

The rods are hardened to my knowledge and of what I can decipher from the receipt they are cs-663p-10

SToCk roD & MaIN BEarINgS
Engine Pro's OE style rod and main bearings
are constructed using tri-metal alloys with a
solid steel backing for rigidity.
Application
Rod Bearing Set
Main Bearing Set Chevy Small Block.................................11-663P-8.
and the rings are e-251k30. This means nothing to me I can ask when I speak to him. The rings are Total seal and there is a comp cam springs and cam, Manley con rods. The rest I cant decipher from the receipt.

Now I hope I don't offend anyone here but as for the comments that 5k is to much for an engine, I guess that for some people this is true. I on the other hand I do not. This forum question was not about if it was great value its about seeing how to diagnose and fix a problem. I regret saying anything about money as for different people 2k might be a lot for an engine. This is not really anyone's issue at all and am not really interested in opinion here. Its like saying that $255 for a 45 series Bridgestone Bizzac snow tire is too expensive when junk from Walmart would do the job just fine.

I would not walk into your home and say that you spent too much money on your horrible furniture. You get the idea. Its not relevant here.

I don't mean to be rude but this was not made at home and there is a labor component to building an engine as others have also pointed out from previous posts. So if good heads run at 1200 to 1800 then there are a lot of other components to make an engine, Cam, Block, Pumps, Pistons Blah Blah. My original engine was not used .. I received a refund for it to be used as parts exchange. The shop was not backyard bobs and they don't order heads from amazon.com and stick it together. They machine and do all there work in house.

I would appreciate that this is not where this discussion goes as there is no merit for others in the future to read opinion about price and loose track of the point of this thread. To try and provide information that might be helpful not only to my self but to others in the future that may have a similar problem. Is this not why we look on here.

Thank you all for your participation and help. I hope this does not offend. I was not looking to see if you think i was ripped off I wanted to see what might have gone wrong. This way it can be fixed and I can continue to enjoy what seems to potentially be a very fun motor. Without dwindling over the cost.

Hope we get back on track.

Oh here is the specs for the cam also.

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by gavotter333

Thank you for the suggestions for this. These are things that I can do tomorrow and see what I find. Ill let you all know what I find.

The rods are hardened to my knowledge and of what I can decipher from the receipt they are cs-663p-10

SToCk roD & MaIN BEarINgS
Engine Pro's OE style rod and main bearings
are constructed using tri-metal alloys with a
solid steel backing for rigidity.
Application
Rod Bearing Set
Main Bearing Set Chevy Small Block.................................11-663P-8.
and the rings are e-251k30. This means nothing to me I can ask when I speak to him. The rings are Total seal and there is a comp cam springs and cam, Manley con rods. The rest I cant decipher from the receipt.

Now I hope I don't offend anyone here but as for the comments that 5k is to much for an engine, I guess that for some people this is true. I on the other hand I do not. This forum question was not about if it was great value its about seeing how to diagnose and fix a problem. I regret saying anything about money as for different people 2k might be a lot for an engine. This is not really anyone's issue at all and am not really interested in opinion here. Its like saying that $255 for a 45 series Bridgestone Bizzac snow tire is too expensive when junk from Walmart would do the job just fine.

I would not walk into your home and say that you spent too much money on your horrible furniture. You get the idea. Its not relevant here.

I don't mean to be rude but this was not made at home and there is a labor component to building an engine as others have also pointed out from previous posts. So if good heads run at 1200 to 1800 then there are a lot of other components to make an engine, Cam, Block, Pumps, Pistons Blah Blah. My original engine was not used .. I received a refund for it to be used as parts exchange. The shop was not backyard bobs and they don't order heads from amazon.com and stick it together. They machine and do all there work in house.

I would appreciate that this is not where this discussion goes as there is no merit for others in the future to read opinion about price and loose track of the point of this thread. To try and provide information that might be helpful not only to my self but to others in the future that may have a similar problem. Is this not why we look on here.

Thank you all for your participation and help. I hope this does not offend. I was not looking to see if you think i was ripped off I wanted to see what might have gone wrong. This way it can be fixed and I can continue to enjoy what seems to potentially be a very fun motor. Without dwindling over the cost.

Hope we get back on track.

Oh here is the specs for the cam also.

There sure are alot of opinions on here, this is a great site for alot of things, but most of these guys are shade tree mechanics at best (I know there are some experts too)....If you paid 5 grand for an engine and install you paid the going rate, I know because I have been inside of an automotive machine shop...not this year ,but this week and have built many engines personally, the last one was 7K and that did not include a core or any/very little markup on parts and no labor!

As far as what is wrong, it is probably an issue with the valve train, new parts take a while to "season" and lifters are notorious for bleeding down or failing. cams do go flat, studs can pull loose from the heads, there are alot of things that can go wrong...It sounds like you are a smart guy who can get someone to figure it out... as mentioned in the previous posts look for metal shavings in your oil, after a build assuming everyting is sized right there is very little tollerance and if you see metal shavings in the oil or oil filter ( cut it open and look at the filter media), you do have problems...possibly major problems, if not then you may need to pull the valve covers to see if the lifters/ rockers are all adjusted correctly and funtioning.

New engines use oil, any body tells you different needs to check their facts, you seem to be using alot, but it takes a while to seat ring, guides etc.
taking out the engne is a VERY LAST RESORT...figure out what is wrong first.
and it is probably worth the $80-100 to get a tow to a good mechanic.

Sorry if I stepped on toes, but from what I read, you guys are going a little overboard, You should sue is not real good advice, the best engine builders make mistakes, try to work it out with them but ultimately it would be hard to get any judge to even look at this situation seriously, if it made it across country the builder did at least a fair job...a bad engine would not have made it to N.Y.

Just my opinion

[gavotter333]

Originally Posted by Skirkpat

There sure are alot of opinions on here, this is a great site for alot of things, but most of these guys are shade tree mechanics at best (I know there are some experts too)....If you paid 5 grand for an engine and install you paid the going rate, I know because I have been inside of an automotive machine shop...not this year ,but this week and have built many engines personally, the last one was 7K and that did not include a core or any/very little markup on parts and no labor!

As far as what is wrong, it is probably an issue with the valve train, new parts take a while to "season" and lifters are notorious for bleeding down or failing. cams do go flat, studs can pull loose from the heads, there are alot of things that can go wrong...It sounds like you are a smart guy who can get someone to figure it out... as mentioned in the previous posts look for metal shavings in your oil, after a build assuming everyting is sized right there is very little tollerance and if you see metal shavings in the oil or oil filter ( cut it open and look at the filter media), you do have problems...possibly major problems, if not then you may need to pull the valve covers to see if the lifters/ rockers are all adjusted correctly and funtioning.

New engines use oil, any body tells you different needs to check their facts, you seem to be using alot, but it takes a while to seat ring, guides etc.
taking out the engne is a VERY LAST RESORT...figure out what is wrong first.
and it is probably worth the $80-100 to get a tow to a good mechanic.

Sorry if I stepped on toes, but from what I read, you guys are going a little overboard, You should sue is not real good advice, the best engine builders make mistakes, try to work it out with them but ultimately it would be hard to get any judge to even look at this situation seriously, if it made it across country the builder did at least a fair job...a bad engine would not have made it to N.Y.

Just my opinion

You got it right on the nose there. I want to make sure its cactus before I get someone to waste there money and time shipping an engine or whole truck to the other side of the country. I don't want to waste his money and would most certainly get another motor from this shop. As I have said he builds the stuff of dreams.

Thankyou for treading.

[71 super]

Use the timing light and determine the location of the source of the noise with the hose etc. From the cam specs posted there should be no problem with the pushrods unless there is a geometery issue- i.e pushrods are too long, bt with the info you have posted about the builder I am sure he would have checked the length and such when he degreed the cam. You said that the timing was @ 4 degrees when you went to the other shop in NY and that the engine had been run in at the bakersfield shop- correct? Have you spoken to the builder about the change in timing? Is the distributer a stock type or MSD billet etc? My thinking is if the motor was set up on dyno, the curve in the dist. and carb adjustments maybe off somewhat in and actual vehicle vs ideaql conditions and changes in atmosphere etc. All of these are tuning issues and do not answer your first question where is the noise coming from? Check with light to determine location and move from there. As for the components comment no it does not matter what you paid, however if like my self and the last big motor I built- 408 dynoed at 575 hp, things like pistons etc do make a difference- the first incarnation of the motor lasted exactly 6 days in which the end result was pieces of a cheaper piston migrating from #8 to #2 cylinder and a fire ball flashing at least 6 feet beyond the tailgate when this happened. I have been down this same road several times with "hot" motors so the type of components do bear relevance in how things act/react. The reason for the explosion migration was due to a "pro" who milled the tops of the pistons just a little too thin, and combined with a improperly setup distributer all hades broke loose literally and figuratively- turned a $8000 motor into a pile of scrap in 8 seconds or so. Sorry to step on your toes but been there done that. If you locate the source of the noise- valve train or lower end, you will need to run a comression test- tester is about $25 at any parts house follow the intructions on package- If a pushrod has bent, it could have been caused a misalignment at the valve stem as it bent, bending the valve and in turn leaving it in the combustion camber with the piston and the noise you have heard is piston to valve contact- not good. The compression test will indicate if the valve is open as you will not have compression on that cylinder and if that is the case you have bigger problems than initially thought- ie. cracked head in seat area, busted piston, and or busted block. If you are afraid to drive as I would be, the before mentioned tests are something that you can do in your driveway parking garage etc. in a couple of hours by yourself. Hope this helps get you going in right direction. Harold

[gavotter333]

Originally Posted by 71 super

Use the timing light and determine the location of the source of the noise with the hose etc. From the cam specs posted there should be no problem with the pushrods unless there is a geometery issue- i.e pushrods are too long, bt with the info you have posted about the builder I am sure he would have checked the length and such when he degreed the cam. You said that the timing was @ 4 degrees when you went to the other shop in NY and that the engine had been run in at the bakersfield shop- correct? Have you spoken to the builder about the change in timing? Is the distributer a stock type or MSD billet etc? My thinking is if the motor was set up on dyno, the curve in the dist. and carb adjustments maybe off somewhat in and actual vehicle vs ideaql conditions and changes in atmosphere etc. All of these are tuning issues and do not answer your first question where is the noise coming from? Check with light to determine location and move from there. As for the components comment no it does not matter what you paid, however if like my self and the last big motor I built- 408 dynoed at 575 hp, things like pistons etc do make a difference- the first incarnation of the motor lasted exactly 6 days in which the end result was pieces of a cheaper piston migrating from #8 to #2 cylinder and a fire ball flashing at least 6 feet beyond the tailgate when this happened. I have been down this same road several times with "hot" motors so the type of components do bear relevance in how things act/react. The reason for the explosion migration was due to a "pro" who milled the tops of the pistons just a little too thin, and combined with a improperly setup distributer all hades broke loose literally and figuratively- turned a $8000 motor into a pile of scrap in 8 seconds or so. Sorry to step on your toes but been there done that. If you locate the source of the noise- valve train or lower end, you will need to run a comression test- tester is about $25 at any parts house follow the intructions on package- If a pushrod has bent, it could have been caused a misalignment at the valve stem as it bent, bending the valve and in turn leaving it in the combustion camber with the piston and the noise you have heard is piston to valve contact- not good. The compression test will indicate if the valve is open as you will not have compression on that cylinder and if that is the case you have bigger problems than initially thought- ie. cracked head in seat area, busted piston, and or busted block. If you are afraid to drive as I would be, the before mentioned tests are something that you can do in your driveway parking garage etc. in a couple of hours by yourself. Hope this helps get you going in right direction. Harold

Harold,

Thank you for this information. This is really useful and is something that I can do to see what is going on. Ill get a comp tester and timing light this afternoon and see what I can find. The distributor is MSD I think Its not stock and the carby is Edelbrock 1407. (Sorry correction here its a 1405, I did mention that it is too small for this engine but it has a electric choke and is essential for NY cold starting over performance) I agree that these might not all match perfectly and were items that were on the list to upgrade at some point.

I am under the distinct impression that everything used to build this engine is very high quality and it should be as strong as an ox. I am very much hoping that the valve has not hit a piston, I have been down that road before and its game over as you mentioned. Without doing major things like taking rocker arms off and so forth your suggestions will be really useful to try to diagnose the problem.

I was actually on the phone with the builder when at the mechanics here in NY and he is aware of the timing being at 4deg. It was adjusted back to 14 and it ran like a charm. Then slowly the ticking and so forth happened. I am still waiting to hear back from the builder and will let him make suggestions however I will follow what you have suggested as this will only help.

[stllookn]

If you can change a spark plug...you can do a compression check...it is that easy. I would highly suggest that you do this before you run the engine again. The equipment, as mentioned earlier, is very inexpensive and it can be done in your driveway in less than an hour. Instructions are included in the compression gauge kit. Come on here for guidance after you read the instructions. Good Luck!

[phipp13]

for the money you spent 5K is a lot of dough. i'd take the engine back and have it fixed, if that doesnt work out, legal action, I got a real good eng builder in TN i get all my parts from, 3.5k would get you a Brand NEW SBC 375-400 hp with a no B.S. warrenty!!!! pm me for a link if interested, very reputable engine builder. good luck Phipp13

[haysonj]

I have been watching this thread for awhile and you guys must know some really cheap engine builders. go to jegs and any 400 HP engine will cost you 4 or 5 grand Get into real high performance and they go up to 8 or 9 thousand. The fuel injection alone for my 383 cost $3,000. I paid another $3,000 to the machinist to alien bore,bore and hone fit all the pistons and balance the whole assembly. He also clearance the block for the 400 crankshaft. I would guess I have about 6 or 7 thousand to get 400HP with a lot of low in torque. $5,000 is not out of line but apparently something was done wrong or this engine would still be running strong. 4000 miles is way too early for a well built engine to quit.

[gavotter333]

Originally Posted by haysonj

I have been watching this thread for awhile and you guys must know some really cheap engine builders. go to jegs and any 400 HP engine will cost you 4 or 5 grand Get into real high performance and they go up to 8 or 9 thousand. The fuel injection alone for my 383 cost $3,000. I paid another $3,000 to the machinist to alien bore,bore and hone fit all the pistons and balance the whole assembly. He also clearance the block for the 400 crankshaft. I would guess I have about 6 or 7 thousand to get 400HP with a lot of low in torque. $5,000 is not out of line but apparently something was done wrong or this engine would still be running strong. 4000 miles is way too early for a well built engine to quit.

Thank you. As I have tried to mention but it seems people are not reading. I don't think 5k is a lot for an engine and all this wasted discussion that there mate can do it for 3k is useless and counter productive. As far as I am concerned a 2 or 3k engine would more than likely be junk. There that should get someones back up.

I don't do anything the cheap way in life and certainly not with this truck. You pay for skilled people in any facet of life and for the best people you pay more. I know this as people pay me a hell of money to do my job because I know exactly what I am doing.

As I have mentioned so many times the price I paid for this motor is not relevant. I infact have an engine that is more reminiscent of 7K. I was not charged full price for a lot of parts and as there was little time some of the best components around were used. The sort of things I believe go into NASCAR engines.

If you only want to comment on this or how I should get into legal action then please keep your comments from this thread. There is no lack of communication with the shop nor is he dodging bullets in any way. I have called him at 3am and woken him up and it was not an issue.

Thankyou again to all of the people on here that are offering sensible information. I am not a trained mechanic with 30 years under my belt.

If you think 5k for a motor is a lot I spent nearly 1k restoring the whole heating system, would you like a breakdown of this too so it can be discussed. This truck is not a junkyard heap made from years of different trucks. It was owned by one man for 32 years who looked after it and it was garaged all its life. I am its 3rd owner. It has never been clocked and has never had an accident. It is in amazing and very original condition and is being restored to its fullest by me as a project.

[gavotter333]

Originally Posted by phipp13

for the money you spent 5K is a lot of dough. i'd take the engine back and have it fixed, if that doesnt work out, legal action, I got a real good eng builder in TN i get all my parts from, 3.5k would get you a Brand NEW SBC 375-400 hp with a no B.S. warrenty!!!! pm me for a link if interested, very reputable engine builder. good luck Phipp13

As mentioned before the shop that did this motor is very good also and came highly recommended by 2 people. This is also why I have and will keep his name and the name of the business out of this. I spoke to him today and either the whole truck is going to be shipped to Bakersfield or the engine will be removed from the truck here and shipped on a crate back repaired and then reinstalled here.

I was never questioning the work that was done or the integrity of the machinist that built the engine. Nor the cost of the engine that was built. I just wanted some extra advice from others so I knew what I was up against.

[theyammieguy]

Originally Posted by gavotter333

As mentioned before the shop that did this motor is very good also and came highly recommended by 2 people. This is also why I have and will keep his name and the name of the business out of this. I spoke to him today and either the whole truck is going to be shipped to Bakersfield or the engine will be removed from the truck here and shipped on a crate back repaired and then reinstalled here.

I was never questioning the work that was done or the integrity of the machinist that built the engine. Nor the cost of the engine that was built. I just wanted some extra advice from others so I knew what I was up against.

Been following the thread to find out what is wrong with your engine.

Sounds like you got a reputable guy to build it and something went wrong.

Never know, torque wrench might be out of calibration, etc. etc. Things happen, even to the pros.

[Security guy]

Hey gavotter 333, It says alot about you to not bring the guys name in here with all this. Alot of guys would be cussing the shop up and down and bad mouthing the shop for a crappy engine. It seems like you have a lot of respect and trust for the engine builder. I'm watching also to see what went wrong with your engine. Keep us updated. You seem like a great guy just by reading your posts. Good luck with the engine.

[leddzepp]

I agree, anything can go wrong even with a pro building it. The fact that he is working with you, and talking to you daily speaks volumes about the kind of dude he is. It may take some time, but it sounds like it will be resolved. 5k is not bad at all for a performance motor with installation.

I had a similar problem with a used vehicle I purchased a while back. It looked like it had been sitting a while, and I noticed a tapping noise, figuring it was a sticky lifter. Not all the time, but it came and went and was annoying. I changed over to synthetic oil, and within a few days of driving, the noise went away and has not returned since. Just my .02, good luck with getting it fixed.

[Elephanthead]

My point about the $5000 cost is if the engine only is usable for 50 miles, you have an issue with the builder, if you paid some joker 100 bucks to do a junkyard swap, that is another matter. I realize costs out west are higher, so maybe $5,000 doesn't get you what is does here. Anyway the place to diagnose it is not over the internet. Tear that thing down. Sorry to hear your having issues.

[Gray Ghost]

Your point misses the mark and the issue. He's just trying to get an idea of what it might be. We all know there's no way to tell the entire issue until it's taken apart and the builder needs to do that himself.

I always ask opinions when I run into issues like this and I have had similar things happen to motors built in the past.

The cost comments are irrelevant unless you live in the area he does, know every single component that went into the engine and have dealt with the builder personally. If you don't know any of this, you really can't comment on the cost of the rebuild. You can only think of what it might cost in your area for comparison. Saying that it was too much to pay isn't helping.

Finally, any motor can fail...all it takes is one component and there are many that make up a motor. You can buy a new GM crate motor and have it tank on you during the break in period...I've seen it happen.

[WorkinLonghorn]

As far as what is wrong, it is probably an issue with the valve train, new parts take a while to "season" and lifters are notorious for bleeding down or failing.

He says the noise gets louder when he steps on it.
What would make a valve-train problem react like this?
Unless he means the noise gets louder as RPMs rise, I know it is piston,rod or bearing problem although he might ALSO have a valve train prob.

If it was me,and I didn't want to do any testing myself,I would find a shop that would agree to do a check-up for a good price and get it towed there. Let them know that you ARE NOT going to have any other work done on it there other than MAYBE the engine remove/replace.
Then fax the report to your builder and do what ever he suggests assuming he's taking full responsibility.

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn

He says the noise gets louder when he steps on it.
What would make a valve-train problem react like this?
Unless he means the noise gets louder as RPMs rise, I know it is piston,rod or bearing problem although he might ALSO have a valve train prob.

If it was me,and I didn't want to do any testing myself,I would find a shop that would agree to do a check-up for a good price and get it towed there. Let them know that you ARE NOT going to have any other work done on it there other than MAYBE the engine remove/replace.
Then fax the report to your builder and do what ever he suggests assuming he's taking full responsibility.

I believe that as you press the accelerator the RPM's do indeed rise, valve train issues can easily result in a backfire or a lifter bouncing around in the bore, at 2500 RPMs a bad lifter or a stud that has pulled out allowing for a rocker to fly around will cause alot of racket. There very well may be issues in the shortblock. but as I stated in my original post there would be evidence of that in the oil/oil filter....neither one of us can know for certain I am 2000 miles from the truck, I just am giving the guy a good place to start, the small block is a simple engine to diagnose especially in this truck.

[hilandr452]

What a guy spends on his truck or his motor is his business.

The way the builder has handled this case from day one shows obvious integrity and good business sense. Even though you have relocated half way across the country and aren't likely to use him again, he is determined to make things right.

I've seen guys take advantage of people just because they won't have to deal with them again, but this guy seems to be one of the good guys. There are few of those left these days gentlemen.

I would ask you, when everything gets worked out in the end and you are satisfied with the results, to post this guys business and name so that those of us who appreciate a good shop can add him to our list of reputable businesses.

Don't be offended by these guys giving their opinions. Even though sometimes there is a lack of eloquence, most people here are only trying to help you and this is a forum, and forums are always full of opinions. We're lucky here that for the most part, kids don't post here. I've been on other forums and it gets ridiculous when you get in an argument with someone and try to convince them of something and then find out the guy you've been going back and forth with is 12. Kinda redundant if you know what I mean.


Thank you and good luck friend, keep us posted, this is an interesting story.

Dan

[gavotter333]

Originally Posted by Elephanthead

My point about the $5000 cost is if the engine only is usable for 50 miles, you have an issue with the builder, if you paid some joker 100 bucks to do a junkyard swap, that is another matter. I realize costs out west are higher, so maybe $5,000 doesn't get you what is does here. Anyway the place to diagnose it is not over the internet. Tear that thing down. Sorry to hear your having issues.

So ill repeat my self again. I do not have an issue with the builder of this engine. Again I do not have an issue with the builder of this engine. Do i need to say it again. Nor the price paid. and again.........

Actually its far from junked, the engine still runs and its done over 4500 miles. I stopped driving it when all this happened before I knew if it was serious. This is why I originally posted the thread. Again we are still going on about price. Let me tell you how it is at the moment. The builder of this motor will not only at his cost entirely ship the truck back to Bakersfield will cover the cost of a full rebuild if necessary. There is no reason nor was there for legal action or for me to run around having a tizzy fit and getting all cranky pointing the finger at someone else. This could very well be entirely my fault. Who knows. Something that I see a lot of here is people who are truly not responsible for there own actions in life and are the victim of someone elses issues. There is merely inconvenience on my part and my beast will not be around for a week or so. Shal we do some maths here. Humm 800 each way for shipping 200 for extra insurance due to the nature of the vehicle and possibly a totally new engine. even just the parts alone. Wow that might cost more than the original job.

Will your cheap re builder warrant his work with something like that. I very much think not. Remember its the other side of the country not just up the road. Now if you want to rubbish him any more. Would your builder start building you an engine on Xmas eve and have parts come emergency express on FedEx so that in 5 days you can have an engine to continue your drive to new york so you don't loose the job your relocating to the other side of the country for. Help you organize a rental car and drive you 20 miles to pick it up so you are not trapped in a strange town for Xmas and can go and spend time with your friends. Get 2 of his workers to also commit to loosing there Xmas. Anyone that posts on here anything about money again will be shunned to the highest degree from me. Questioning the ability or integrity of the builder or the work-componentry or 30 or so years of experience he has doing this has achieved what for anyone that reads this in the future.

This is nothing to do with my original question and is totally counter productive. You also have no idea what was done or the full list of components or the hours of labor that were billed. All this opinion and no one bothered to ask how much you pay a really top guy to do this. Just that there mate can do it for less. You have not driven nor have you herd this motor. As I have said the one mechanic that worked on it here was absolutely blown away by this motor when he drove it. He is also not backyard bob. The man drives the most amazing mustang I have seen in a long time. It would blow anyone away and he commented that my truck weighing 2 times as much would leave it for dead. The speedo moves like a tach in a 4 cylinder. It is seriously fast even with such a tiny carb.

I do not want to fix this motor my self nor do I have any intention of taking it to anyone locally for repair. I was just looking to learn more and seek information on what could be the issue.

I would most certainly and will in the future have engines built at this very shop. I actually miss the attitude from California as it seems to not be as petty, pessimistic and miserable.

The slightest thoughts of it being the cam has resulted in it going back to CA. I have felt the rockers move and the push is not as far as the rest from this rod. It is not bent and all looks seemingly healthy above. I would doubt that its killed the piston as its moving less and not more. I do not however have xray vision.

And now for a treat for you all. Here she is in white sands New Mexico. Which is odly enough more than 50 miles from Bakersfield. Are we to start a new thread on if the Gypsum got into the motor and killed it. Come on. Constructive comments here not crushed egos please..

Actually I believe that costs out west are less. From what I have seen on offer in NY or Jersey you seem to get better value from CA. I am not talking about mechanics. Performance engine builders. The top ones. Not the one at the gas station. From people who were already working on engines when this truck came out and have a wall full of trophies from race engines that they have built.

This is not the shop i went to however they dont make 2.5k engines either. This is just an example of the type of shop that I am dealing with.

http://www.steveschmidtracing.com/en...pro-stock.html or this one
http://www.eddiesvalvegrinding.com/c...ne-pricing.htm

[sflanagan]

Originally Posted by gavotter333

so ill repeat my self again. I do not have an issue with the builder of this engine. Again i do not have an issue with the builder of this engine. Do i need to say it again. Nor the price paid. And again.........

Actually its far from junked, the engine still runs and its done over 4500 miles. I stopped driving it when all this happened before i knew if it was serious. This is why i originally posted the thread. Again we are still going on about price. Let me tell you how it is at the moment. The builder of this motor will not only at his cost entirely ship the truck back to bakersfield will cover the cost of a full rebuild if necessary. There is no reason nor was there for legal action or for me to run around having a tizzy fit and getting all cranky pointing the finger at someone else. This could very well be entirely my fault. Who knows. Something that i see a lot of here is people who are truly not responsible for there own actions in life and are the victim of someone elses issues. There is merely inconvenience on my part and my beast will not be around for a week or so. Shal we do some maths here. Humm 800 each way for shipping 200 for extra insurance due to the nature of the vehicle and possibly a totally new engine. Even just the parts alone. Wow that might cost more than the original job.

Will your cheap re builder warrant his work with something like that. I very much think not. Remember its the other side of the country not just up the road. Now if you want to rubbish him any more. Would your builder start building you an engine on xmas eve and have parts come emergency express on fedex so that in 5 days you can have an engine to continue your drive to new york so you don't loose the job your relocating to the other side of the country for. Help you organize a rental car and drive you 20 miles to pick it up so you are not trapped in a strange town for xmas and can go and spend time with your friends. Get 2 of his workers to also commit to loosing there xmas. Anyone that posts on here anything about money again will be shunned to the highest degree from me. Questioning the ability or integrity of the builder or the work-componentry or 30 or so years of experience he has doing this has achieved what for anyone that reads this in the future.

This is nothing to do with my original question and is totally counter productive. You also have no idea what was done or the full list of components or the hours of labor that were billed. All this opinion and no one bothered to ask how much you pay a really top guy to do this. Just that there mate can do it for less. You have not driven nor have you herd this motor. As i have said the one mechanic that worked on it here was absolutely blown away by this motor when he drove it. He is also not backyard bob. The man drives the most amazing mustang i have seen in a long time. It would blow anyone away and he commented that my truck weighing 2 times as much would leave it for dead. The speedo moves like a tach in a 4 cylinder. It is seriously fast even with such a tiny carb.

I do not want to fix this motor my self nor do i have any intention of taking it to anyone locally for repair. I was just looking to learn more and seek information on what could be the issue.

I would most certainly and will in the future have engines built at this very shop. I actually miss the attitude from california as it seems to not be as petty, pessimistic and miserable.

The slightest thoughts of it being the cam has resulted in it going back to ca. I have felt the rockers move and the push is not as far as the rest from this rod. It is not bent and all looks seemingly healthy above. I would doubt that its killed the piston as its moving less and not more. I do not however have xray vision.

and now for a treat for you all. Here she is in white sands new mexico. Which is odly enough more than 50 miles from bakersfield. Are we to start a new thread on if the gypsum got into the motor and killed it. Come on. Constructive comments here not crushed egos please..

Actually i believe that costs out west are less. From what i have seen on offer in ny or jersey you seem to get better value from ca. I am not talking about mechanics. Performance engine builders. The top ones. Not the one at the gas station. From people who were already working on engines when this truck came out and have a wall full of trophies from race engines that they have built.

This is not the shop i went to however they dont make 2.5k engines either. T

nice!!!!!