47-59 Parking brake question

[leegreen]

like this, could be part of the plate you are adding to the brackets

[dsraven]

yes, exactly, however my version would likely have some wings on it for better anti-bending under load. thats just me. get that mount installed, then bolt down the estopp unit, which has adjustement slots so the cable can have a straightline pull without a bend in the outer part.
thanks LG, a pic is worth a thousand words, lol.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

like this, could be part of the plate you are adding to the brackets
Attachment 2365071

Thanks for catching that. Last night I had the E-Stopp on my bench hooked up to a 12v transformer to see what the pull length was on the unit so I could judge any any adjustment room necessary. Then I saw that threaded rod and nut and scratched my head and said I think I need to do some research tomorrow. Then I saw your post first thing and it all made sense.

This is still a rough fabrication, more detail yet to some. I will likely cut a sheet of 16 gauge sheet metal to sit on the braces and then bolt them to the braces and the E-Stopp to the sheet metal and brackets to make it secure but with room to adjust as necessary. Then powder coat everything.

FYI, the cable pull is about two inches.

[TX3100Guy]

I messed around more today with my setup and I'm not thrilled with it. The dilemma is that the E-Stopp needs to be placed on an angle to the frame in order to line up with the tab on the brake mechanism and that makes it look odd to me. The photo in post # 58 above looks clean and I like it but don't see how that would work on this truck given the bed cross member right behind the cab and the brake mechanism that spans the width of the truck.

[leegreen]

Weld a new tab onto the brake cross member thing nearer the frame for the estopp to pull on.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

Weld a new tab onto the brake cross member thing nearer the frame for the estopp to pull on.

I thought about that but wondered about its location. The current tab isn't exactly in the center of the rod that goes from side to side, but close to the loop in the center. I wondered if a tab that far off center would still be effective at pulling on both brake cables.

[leegreen]

while the factory location of that tab would tend to equalize any torsional loss twisting that bar, my guess as to why the factory put it in the center has more to do with getting around the master cylinder than needing it to be centered to reduce twist.

I don't have an intact original truck to crawl under for a look see but I think I'd be willing to move the tab to one side

[dsraven]

i'm with LG on this one. weld a new lever onto the crossbar where you need it. if the bar twists make a tougher bar.
you may want to make the lever longer so you can fine tune the amount of travel needed at the rear cables. i am thinking the estopp may have more travel than required so when the park brake is called for it may be applied more heavily than you would have with the old system.

[TX3100Guy]

Problem solved. I fashioned a tab out of some 1/4 plate I had laying around and then welded it to the factory brake rod. While the welds may not be up to pro standards, my buddy says that's what angle grinders are for. After welding and some cleanup, I gave it several taps with my 3 pound Tonya Harding persuasion hammer and it stayed firmly attached. Now I can mount the E-Stopp on the brackets parallel with the frame and only about 2-3 inches out. It will look worlds better. Thanks for the encouragement.

[leegreen]

I like hammers, I had to google that one

good fix!

[72Mountaineer]

ANybody use a junkyard electric parking brake?

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by 72Mountaineer

ANybody use a junkyard electric parking brake?

I see your user name, Morgantown in 72?

[72Mountaineer]

Originally Posted by TX3100Guy

I see your user name, Morgantown in 72?

I was there. Were you?

[TX3100Guy]

More fabricating today, but still not happy with how much adjustment room, I'll have to deal with the throw of the actuator and how taught it should pull on the brake mechanism.

I have plans this evening, but will get back on it tomorrow. When I'm happy, I'll clean off the bracket and the 16 gauge that the E-Stopp is bolted to, then powder coat all the brackets and metal.

[TX3100Guy]

I was a student resident from 1973-1979. i took the long route to get two degrees. We can blame year one on the 3.2 beer and members of the opposite sex.

[TX3100Guy]

Ok, I'm stumped on something related to the E-Stopp. I have it temporarily mounted and have wired it up to my 12 v transformer to see how far it pulls on the brake mechanism. i disconnected the clevis pin. The question is, how far does using the old foot operated parking brake move the tab on the bar that operates both brake cables. I won't want to setup the E-Stopp and have it over pulling.

If you installed an E-Stopp how did you arrive at the correct pulling distance.

[leegreen]

I'd assume the estopp is designed to stall out and switch off. So as long as your parking brakes are adjusted and the travel of the welded on tab is not greater that the estopp travel the estopp is going to pull to it's max strength every time you activate it.

I don't anticipate it can generate more pull that the original foot brake so I doubt it is capable of breaking anything.

Maximum rear brake for panic stop emergency braking could get a little scary when the rear locks up. But if you have ever tried to stop a moving vehicle with a foot activated ratcheting emergency brake it is pretty hard to modulate the braking, even without panic.

[TX3100Guy]

I found this on the E-Stopp website

[TX3100Guy]

Underside of truck work done for the E-Stopp unit, now I start on the ECU wiring inside the truck. Al parts cut, drilled, welded as necessary and then powder coated today. I used the original spring as a return spring for the tab on the brake bar. Works perfectly and the E-Stop stall out when the brakes are fully applied. I know this because I jacked up the rear end and found out when the rear wheels would not turn. I did have to adjust both brake cables and the clevis on the E-Stopp and the two brakes cables to find the sweet spot.

[leegreen]

good work!
I like the background in the picture too.

Now what is the ECU wiring you speak of? Is there something about your supercharged 261 you have not updated us on??

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

good work!
I like the background in the picture too.

Thats my 2024 Corvette Stingray.

[TX3100Guy]

No, I called the electronic control box for the E-Stopp an ECU, but it technically isn't an ECU in a literal sense. I have another box also installed under the dash for the electric power steering unit and that manufacturers also called their box and ECU (Electronic Control Unit) but it is just for the power steering unit.