65 C10 Family Connection

[FamilyTruckster65]

Next we make good fitting filler plates and burn them in from both sides. On the top flange of the frame, holes were drilled at then end of the grinder cut to help relieve a stress riser that could develop in that area.

[FamilyTruckster65]

Welds cleaned up, next stop, paint.

[caseyjones]

That looks so much better than the huge step notch. Does this method end up moving the fore/aft location of the upper spring mount very much?

[FamilyTruckster65]

Originally Posted by caseyjones

That looks so much better than the huge step notch. Does this method end up moving the fore/aft location of the upper spring mount very much?

It did move the upper mount toward the front minimally. I am using air bags and will show them installed later. I am also centering the wheel in the fender opening. The bag alignment looks pretty good although I can move the top mount as required.

Now the bigger change is the frame is shorter from this. Approximately one inch. In addition to needing to fabricate the two front mounts for the bed the last mounting location on the bed crossmember under the tailgate is past the end of the bed. I will need to fab something there also.

[FamilyTruckster65]

Just some rattle can until fab is finished.

[Braunschweiger]

You have a plan, things are going well, I'm curious.

[FamilyTruckster65]

A little before and after picture.

[cwcarpenter98]

I like your way of making room for the axle a lot better than the typical step notch.

On the extension needed for the rear of the frame, if you're trying to stay with a mostly stock looking frame, maybe you could get the rear section of rails from a long bed frame to get the length needed?

[FamilyTruckster65]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

I like your way of making room for the axle a lot better than the typical step notch.

On the extension needed for the rear of the frame, if you're trying to stay with a mostly stock looking frame, maybe you could get the rear section of rails from a long bed frame to get the length needed?

Ohh, that would be sneeky! good idea.

[FamilyTruckster65]

Putting things in the way so that I can see what room is left for exhaust. I want to run it past the axle and either dump behind the tires or from under the bumper.

So the trailing arms are from Tinworks and have 2 inch spacer equivalent built in. The Sway bar, panhard rod and brackets, and the shock mounts are NoLimit parts.

The axle is a Ford 9 inch from a 1970 F100 that is 1.5 inches narrower than the factory 12 bolt.

The step up is around 5 inches.

[FamilyTruckster65]

Had to roll a tire over there at simulated ride height for inspiration.

[88Stanger]

DAMN, that is just badarse!! Love this!! Great work sir!!! I can see it already, you have inspired some new ideas! Keep up the great work, maybe one day I will get to see it done in person.

I see you are in Oregon, you going to the Swap meet in Portland?

[FamilyTruckster65]

Thank you 88. You are alot further ahead on your project, I have been keeping track.

I have never actually made it to the swap meet even though I have been here most of my life.

[joesscamaro]

That is a cool idea...I don't think I've ever seen that done before. Well done.

[FamilyTruckster65]

Originally Posted by joesscamaro

That is a cool idea...I don't think I've ever seen that done before. Well done.

I have thought it was, but it is not mine. I had seen it done on here before, specifically Rob at NoLimits shop truck. I just went a little more aggressive than they did.

[Nappers]

Great project! Looking at these keeps me from selling mine. I’d regret it. Keep up the awesome work!
Posted via Mobile Device

[FamilyTruckster65]

Originally Posted by Nappers

Great project! Looking at these keeps me from selling mine. I’d regret it. Keep up the awesome work!
Posted via Mobile Device

Thank you for the encouragement. You would regret selling before you have had a chance.

[FamilyTruckster65]

This days agenda. These are the 1970 F100 axles. They are 5 on 5 1/2 pattern. They need to be 5 on 5.

[Getter-Done]

Great machining

Yeah one of those holes has to be Plugged

Because the stars do not Align

[FamilyTruckster65]

Whoo! The holes match. We are using the front vented rotor from a late '90's AWD Chevy Astro van as the rear disk. The rotors are 1.25" thick and 11.6" in diameter. For now I will be using GM D52 calipers.

The OD of the axle and the OD of the register hub were turned down to match the rotor, so no mods to the rotors needed, now or in the future. Just a regular parts store item

Oops.. The picture shows the Ford pattern. I guess I forgot the take an after pic..

[joesscamaro]

Are those wheel tubs a bolt in option for our trucks? They look quite a bit wider than our factory tubs.

[FamilyTruckster65]

Originally Posted by joesscamaro

Are those wheel tubs a bolt in option for our trucks? They look quite a bit wider than our factory tubs.

Well...for sure the flange on the floor is in a different spot, so some massaging will have to be done there.

As for the flange on where it bolts to the bed side, I will be moving the wheel house upward due to being lowered. I will be redrilling the holes in the bedside. I can compare the flanges of the widened tubs to the stock ones for you. I will post pictures when I do.

[FamilyTruckster65]

Working on the radiator and core support and figuring out what I need to do. This is a "universal" radiator. Since in am using an L86 with the stock accessories both radiator fittings are on the drivers side. This radiator is a cross flow unit with an internal transmission cooler. The radiator was intended to have both fittings on the passenger side. So I flipped it around to have them on the drivers side while moving the trans cooler fittings to the passenger side. To do this required that I move the filler neck to the opposite corner.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Loving the progress

[FamilyTruckster65]

Thank you 79.

Today's project was getting the new rear axle housing prepped for installation. I need to weld on new saddles for mounting to the trailing arms. Question is, how far apart should they be? I can't tell you, because I cheated.
Used "from unders" tack welded to the saddles to jig it up on the original 12 bolt. Now I can just center it up on the new housing. No measuring.