Project Reno - 72 cheyenne rebuild

[cmabolt]

Been chippin away at the front suspension. The goal was to try and get her back on all four wheels by friday. Mission Accomlished.

Bolted the seats in to test the drivers adjuster forward and backward. It was jamming so I reamed out the mounting holes a little and she slides easy now.
They look good sitting in the cab I think.

Waiting on a few parts and I'll get back into it next week. Gonna rebuild the transfer case and paint it and the trans next.
I also finished welding and grinding the vent filler plates. Just a little touch up on the drivers cab corner and metal work will be done on the cab.

[cmabolt]

New and correct shocks arrived and they fit pretty well. They have an extra 2 inches of travel so are slightly compressed when on truck.


Then turned my attention to getting the drivetrain cleaned and painted. I first rebuilt the transfer case with all new seals gaskets. Then cleaned the trans and prepped it for POR engine enamel.

after that started painting the trans and transfer case.


If your thinking that red looks muted you would be correct. The red is chevy red and it is indeed not a deep red. I'm pretty disappointed. it looked good going on and when done and in natural light, not happy with the color. Should have gone with Chevy orange. Oh well. At least it's protected well.

I then turned my attention to mocking up the hydraulic clutch. I am waiting for the slave and master cylinder, but wanted to get started lining stuff up.
I also made a stop for the clutch pedal so it will sit even with the brake pedal. I will write a detailed explanation of the hydraulic clutch setup.


More to come.

[cmabolt]

progress has been slow with many fitment issues, but still chugging away. I finished up the cab metal work.

Got trans and transfer case mated back together and ready to go back in truck.

So now to the master cylinder side of the hydraulic clutch. I purchased a willwood part# 260-1304 with integrated reservoir of the 3/4 bore variety that matches my novak slave retrofit kit. So first, with the clutch pedal in it's full released position, I used a straight edge to mark a drilling point in the pedal and firewall. I used a level to make sure it was a straight throw from pedal to firewall. Then I mounted the brake booster to check for interference before drilling.

Then I drilled from the inside of cab with pedal assembly out of the way using a hole saw a tad larger then the circumference of the master cylinder inlet.

So far, so good. The firewall is actually reinforced in this area so it didn't seem necessary to add any reinforcement. I had to use a die grinder to clean up and open the hole slightly to accommodate the rubber around the master cylinder pushrod boot. After I mounted the master cylinder I began looking at how to connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder pushrod. I ended up finding a post someone had done for a similar install using round bar stock they tapped and a ball joint rod end they found on Mcmaster-carr. I ended up
using a clevis rod end that was female 5/16 24 thread, some threaded rod and a tapped rod with corresponding 5/16 24 thread.


I measured from clevis rod end to master cylinder pushrod. Cut the tapped rod to length plus an inch. I then cut 1 piece of threaded rod and mated it all together adjusting rod length till pedal had no play.


It seems to be working well. We'll see how it goes when it's hooked to real clutch. I have a total of a little ore than an inch of throw at the moment. i can probably squeak another .5, but will leave as is for now. I think the throw on the master cylinder is 1.40 or something. Next I am moving onto some rear brake issues I have to deal with.

[Crash_OK]

Great progress. The trans and transfer case mated back together looks awesome..

[VA72C10]

Nice progress!

[cmabolt]

Thanks guys! I feel like I'm turning a corner. I'll be happy when I get the chassis done! Crash your ride is looking awesome. Paint on the Bed!!! You must be elated.
Chris

[cmabolt]

creaping along here getting the brakes nailed down. I received my skyjacker front brake hoses yesterday and they fit great. I got the 2" to 4" lift braided hoses for a 72. They also came with adapters to fit thru the frame.


I am working on the rear brakes now. I ordered the drop line from skyjacker as well, but don't have it yet. I ordered weld tabs from summit that will help the transition from the stock lines to short braided lines that go to the calipers. I'm not sure about the line sized though. Does anybody know what the line size is going into the 76 cadillac calipers? It is smaller than the existing brake line that was for drums. I think stock is 7/16 and the cadillac is 3/8 but not sure. I need to order lines and adapter that will work for this transition. Help! In the mean time I needed to fab a couple e brake brackets.

I bolted these to the back side of the caliper plates aimed at the brake brackets on the calipers.


now I just need to order custom length cables. They came in at 41.5 inches.
It's coming together, just a little slow at the moment. I should have more clutch stuff tomorrow so a lot should happen when i have all the parts.

[cmabolt]

Got some parts. I received my novac slave kit

I also finally received and installed some tunes. The shop was getting way to quiet.

Early on I ordered a kit from CPP to connect up my rear disc setup, but after getting all my rear calipers on and new lines installed realized none of the items in the kit will work. So, I will be selling all this stuff and have ordered the correct lines and e-brake cables. It's all new and has never been used. 2 e-brake cables, 2 caliper cables, rear brake lines, clips, banjo bolts.

I am now starting to look into plumbing the Fuel system and prepping the motor to go into the truck.

[cmabolt]

Well, some more parts came in. i received my stainless cables for the rear calipers as well as the e-brake cables. I am just waiting for the last rear brake hose for the drop from the hard line to the rear axle.



I also received my front steering stabilizer and Installed it.

Since I have the motor out, I replaced the oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets and water pump gasket. Just need to finish sanding the block, paint & get'r installed.


Had a couple jobs to get done in the last few weeks, but should be back on the truck full time in June.

[cmabolt]

Mo progress. Motor is painted.


Fuel plumbing has begun. Waiting for many plumbing fittings. I am not totally happy with fuel pump as it is 5/16 in and 5/16 out. But I apparently need 58 PSI minimum at the fuel rail. This pump does 85psi output. I would really like a fuel pump that has an fittings in and out and is closer to the desired psi. Any suggestions from you guys that have done ls swaps?????

I have also started on the DBW PEDAL. I think I'm gonna use the method on the forums of just bending the pedal shaft to the right and welding to the DBW assembly.

[cmabolt]

After a little vacation, I was able to get the DBW gas pedal installed. I butchered the original shaft that the gas pedal was attached to, but after 2 hours of tweaking and some round stock, she's in.


Motor is almost ready to go back in. This motor had an oil cooler. I had to delete it and put in this cover with a fitting for the oil pressure gauge. If anybody is interested here is the gm part number #12551587. It's called an oil pan cover. The brass adapter is a M12x1.5 metric to 1/8 pipe female. The gasket is a separate part#


The harness is back on and motor plumbed with an quick release fittings. I also put on a new starter and 140 amp alternator. Might as well while it's out of the truck, right.


Things have really slowed down trying to plumb the fuel system. A lot of trial and error and my first time plumbing a fuel system.

I decided to plumb the system 3/8 or -6an supply and 5/16 return. I swapped the inline pump to a mallory 60 psi unit that had -6 an inlets and outlets.


Of course to finish plumbing I need the motor in. The trans is patiently awaiting. I can't put the motor in until I get my clutch setup resolved. Hopefully that will happen today.
I also hope to get the final piece for my brake plumbing today. Inline tube is sending a t junction for my rear drop line. Can't wait to be done with brakes.

[cmabolt]

Back to work on the truck.

While waiting for some parts, I decided to get the master cylinder replaced and new stainless lines installed on the firewall side.


Finally my rear drop line junction came in. It was a bit of fiasco with inline tube, but they finally got it to me. They seem to have good product, but shipping is an issue. i hope they work it out.

Finally the motor is mated back up to the trans.

I previously mentioned clutch issues. I had to order an extended throwout bearing and swap clutches from a 12" to an 11". The original flywheel I ordered was an O'Reilly LS replacement. This is a setup I got from the forums over at Pirate4x4. It would have worked, but when bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel, the threads wouldn't even hold 35 ft pounds of torque. So now I have a nice frisbee. I replaced the made in China junk with a billet steel Ram 1550 and center force clutch. It all went together nicely, but the tolerance for hydraulic clutch is much tighter than mechanical. I did the recommended measurements from Novak conversions, but we'll see how it works.

Also got new bump stops and bump stops hardware mounted.


Before the cab goes off to body shop, "knock on wood," i needed to remove the old spray in bed liner from the cab floor. It took a little elbow grease, but heavy duty stripper made it pretty easy really.


Next stop finish fuel plumbing.

[cmabolt]

time for an update. Now that the motor is in, I have turned my attention to the small motor stuff and surrounding systems. I started by modifying the power steering low pressure line thru the frame and swapping the high pressure line fitting from the old pump to the new ls pump. (it does work as explained on the forums)



I then hooked up the new ac brackets and compressor that I ordered with the vintage air system. This Kwik bracket locates the compressor high and utilizes one drive belt for all accessories. Turned out nice and was easy to install. I did have to extend the spacers to line everything up.





Next began hooking up senders for gauges.


Vacuum port for brake booster

Doug Thorley headers arrived today and after switching over to hydraulic clutch was pleasantly surprised that they fit!!! At least for now they fit.

Just a little clearancing for the clutch bracket



will definitely be moving the fuel lines



I will be continuing with the systems in and around the motor.

[mjensen]

It's looking great! Gives me some ideas for mine

[Crash_OK]

Wow.. great progress and attention to detail..

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by Crash_OK

Wow.. great progress and attention to detail..

Thanks Crash! I'm trying like hell to stay motivated. I still have very far to go as you know. BTW, Your truck's bodywork turned out awesome.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Nice build thread too bad the body shops took away so much time from you...

[cmabolt]

Another day, another challenge! Well it would appear that my initial exuberance
about the headers fitting might have been a bit pre-mature.

the passengers side is great. The drivers side sits so close to the bell housing that, it touches the clutch fork. So, I have ordered a couple header flanges and am going to try and space it out. if that doesn't work then i will try a different set of headers.
I painted up my ECM bracket and it's ready to go in the cab.


I also got my driveshafts in from the drivetrain guys. Front was shortened and rear was lengthened.

Today, more plumbing. Any header suggestions would be great. I realize that if i don't get these to work then i am probably looking at 3/4 length headers.

[cmabolt]

Update. Driveshafts installed


Received custom spacers for the compressor bracket and installed them.


The best news of the day. The header flange worked as a spacer. Now, hope it doesn't leak???

Got the 02 sensors installed and began fabbing brackets to run the fuel lines down the bellhousing, along the trans and to transition to the frame rails somewhere.



Oh yeah, got my ground straps as well.

and last but not least, I used a tube bender and modified my stock oil dip stick and fabbed a bracket so it will sit just outside the headers close to it's original location.

[VA72C10]

Nice clean work!

[jays68yak]

Thanks for the pics on the xmember issues. Since I was the one that designed them I will use your feedback to fix anything we can so that they are better in the future.

On the fuel filter, is that a -6 filter with the little tiny disc inside? If so I would swap it out for something else. It doesnt flow enough to keep up with the motors. Ive had several problems with them.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by jays68yak

Thanks for the pics on the xmember issues. Since I was the one that designed them I will use your feedback to fix anything we can so that they are better in the future.

On the fuel filter, is that a -6 filter with the little tiny disc inside? If so I would swap it out for something else. It doesnt flow enough to keep up with the motors. Ive had several problems with them.

Hey jays68yak. Thanks for checking out my build. I think you did a great job on the crossmember. It is very strong and overall a nice piece of engineering. Thank you very much as this made my install possible. Once I got the holes reamed out a bit, it went in fine. I ended up moving my engine forward 2 inches and this was a much better place for the crossmember to be and made brake lines and bump stop bolts much easier to deal with. The reason why I did this was to gain clearance between the firewall and motor. There was none. Costs of moving the motor forward are the driveshafts and a couple days fab work.

As for the fuel filter, it is a russell competition filter part number RUS-650133. It is a 40 micron filter with a stainless disc element. see pic attached of an alternate filter type. What have you used that works well?

If you need more specifics on the crossmember, shoot me a pm and I can get very detailed about my use of it.
Cheers

[cmabolt]

A good week for solving small fitment issues. Here's a pic of the headers and clearance once installed with spacer. I may need to fab a heat shield, but happy with result.

Return side of fuel system is plumbed.

decided to run hard line on supply and return side to just behind the transfer case. I will run braided line the rest of the way.


purchased the nipple that uses the rear vacuum port on the intake manifold for brake booster. Love it when it looks factory!


I needed a temperature sending unit that fit the rear port on the passengers side head. after trying several adapters, Classic instruments had exactly what I needed.


I also purchased a dust boot for the clutch fork, but the stock is not gonna work. too tight. Any ideas. I guess I may have to mock something up externally.

[mjensen]

That is looking real nice! Lines turned out great!

[sparkyben]

Awesome build man. Just adding from experience on mine. The headers will melt your clutch fork boot. and i would modify your headers to have a ball and socket joint where they bolt to the exhaust while you can easily do it. The flange to flange is a pain in the @#$ if you ever plan to really run the truck. Those gaskets fail, just sayin. Will be awesome truck though !!!