48 Burb, bagged, 5.3, 20 year wait

[Advanced Design]

Moved the replacement frame onto the lift and removed the truck #2 body mount and installed the Suburban #2 body mount and middle running board bracket.

All the holes for installation (including the top one) were there. Because the body mount forward edge sits on top of the running board bracket rear edge, the frame is designed with an outward dimple to match the mounting surfaces. Looks like the frame will have plenty of spare holes.

Will blast these and make them look nice once we know everything fits.

[oldman3]

Glad you enjoyed the trip, maybe one of these days I can make it. Frame is taking shape...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Jim - HRPT was the most fun we've ever had at a car related activity. Hope you can make one.

Lots of yard work and shop organization / cleaning didn't leave much Burb build time. Made a little progress on the toe board....figured fixing one large hole would be easier that fixing a bunch of little ones. Been there done that before.

[99 to Life]

man, your a lucky dog. A. the space, B. the lift, 3. the cart, 4. the wife, E. the burb.

[Advanced Design]

Marc - Really fortunate, she helps a lot and we enjoy the time together. Plus it helps when I need tools...you are right honey, you do need a TIG welder. Please post up what you are doing so I can learn and copy.

Iwanna49 - That little shopping cart stool has had a lot of use over the years!

99tolife - You are right, I am way more blessed than I deserve. She doesn't weld though....

Up early this morning and excited like a little kid. We are going to the Street Machine Nationals in the '56. Last time we went was in Indianapolis in 1980 so should be a good day. Vacation next week so I will get to spend a lot of time in my favorite place.

[99 to Life]

haha not to make you feel old, I wasn't even born in 1980. You guys are good team, wish my gal wasn't so girly. She always hates that I work so much.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

haha not to make you feel old, I wasn't even born in 1980. You guys are good team, wish my gal wasn't so girly. She always hates that I work so much.

Thanks 99...we've been a good team going back to 1978 and we have a good time on projects.

Street Machine Nationals was a great time with a diversity of vehicles. Here was one of our favorites. Looked to be on an S10 chassis with a lot of creative details.

[Iceburgh]

wish I could get my wife to help....she hates getting dirty

[Advanced Design]

Well, my wife doesn't like to get too dirty Iceburgh....except maybe when we were replacing a hydraulic hose under the backhoe...that's another story.

Time to get back on the Burb. Monday morning in the shop early, noticed the peeling paint on the West wall of the shop and it has been bothering me so figured we could spare an hour to fix that since we had just painted it last year. Paint starts peeling off in sheets....never had that happen before. Strip the loose off with a scraper, sand, clean...run to town 20 miles away for primer, prime. Still have to paint.

Then shop lights start acting up. Ladder out, replace bulbs, remove bulbs since that didn't work. Put off until later as only two were out. Few other maintenance items and Monday was gone.

[Advanced Design]

Tuesday mind set was forget the paint, lights, yard, everything else....I need to work on the Burb.

There was beading left on the toe pan flange and I didn't want to fill it with a bunch of seam sealer. Cut them out, small patches installed.

These Cleco clamps were really handy and wish I would have gotten some years ago.

[Advanced Design]

Bought these toe and floor pans and maybe I should have just made my own.

Trim to fit and since I don't have a Beverly shear I use the stump and cut off wheel.

[Advanced Design]

Wanted to see this product installed on a truck to get an idea of bellhousing clearance and the company didn't have any pictures. Couldn't find any pictures anywhere. Decided to take a chance and give it a try.

The height is improved over the stock flat floor area with the cut shown here.

The stock firewall / toe pan isn't flat in the same plane across here so the new toe pan didn't want to sit flush. Rather than "form" it into place I decided to remove the "proud" area of the original firewall. This allowed the toe pan to sit flush around the perimeter and I will fill this area in once the floor is installed.

[joedoh]

dont knock it yet, what you have there is the rare lightweight model!

[99 to Life]

dang your shop is huge. My goodness. been there done that "oh I'll deal with that later, I have to work on my truck" its always something isn't it. Like your stump in there! I made my own floor and kick pans. I also have inner cowls I make too, let me know if you need those.

Your getting there. I knew my current projects cab was bad, but I did 90% all new floor with custom bracing all new inner/outer cowls and kick panels. 70 hours later, almost done.

[oldman3]

Nice job on setting up the panels...Jim

[youngrodder]

Looking good AD. Mine rusted under the flat piece of floor just like yours only much worse. To keep trapped water from roting out the floor again I choose to make the rear of my floors flat (one piece) all the way across. It was easy since I had to remove the seat riser (not easy) to repair the lower edge of it. i used 16 gauge for the floors since I went with flat floors.

I need to do my toe boards as well but I'm gaining.


Keep up the great work.
Marc

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by joedoh

dont knock it yet, what you have there is the rare lightweight model!

....yeah but it doesn't have the aluminum fender option.

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

dang your shop is huge. My goodness. been there done that "oh I'll deal with that later, I have to work on my truck" its always something isn't it. Like your stump in there! I made my own floor and kick pans. I also have inner cowls I make too, let me know if you need those.

Your getting there. I knew my current projects cab was bad, but I did 90% all new floor with custom bracing all new inner/outer cowls and kick panels. 70 hours later, almost done.

The shop is 60' x 100' and the front half is the shop. Built by my Dad and uncle in the late 1960's out of 3 and 4 inch drill stem pipe. Been there before on kick panels and floor pieces. The little black truck spoiled me as it was rock solid.

Originally Posted by oldman3

Nice job on setting up the panels...Jim

Thanks Jim, always appreciate your words of encouragement.

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Looking good AD. Mine rusted under the flat piece of floor just like yours only much worse. To keep trapped water from roting out the floor again I choose to make the rear of my floors flat (one piece) all the way across. It was easy since I had to remove the seat riser (not easy) to repair the lower edge of it. i used 16 gauge for the floors since I went with flat floors.

I need to do my toe boards as well but I'm gaining.


Keep up the great work.
Marc

Great Marc that looks good, I am taking the same route. GM didn't spare on the spot welds when they installed the seat riser. Now to figure out why it is still attached at the back.

Having a great time.....now to figure out how to do this full time.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

....yeah but it doesn't have the aluminum fender option.



The shop is 60' x 100' and the front half is the shop. Built by my Dad and uncle in the late 1960's out of 3 and 4 inch drill stem pipe. Been there before on kick panels and floor pieces. The little black truck spoiled me as it was rock solid.



Thanks Jim, always appreciate your words of encouragement.



Great Marc that looks good, I am taking the same route. GM didn't spare on the spot welds when they installed the seat riser. Now to figure out why it is still attached at the back.

Having a great time.....now to figure out how to do this full time.

I learned that the seat riser will not come out without taking the wood out. The back is also spot welded. What I did was used a jig saw and cut the rear tab that runs the lenght of the riser off. Once I remove my wood I will reatach the back tab to the riser.

Good luck
Marc

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by C4fivewindow

Looking good! I think my next project might have to be a burb...

Thanks C4five window. We looked for a long time and picked this one up near El Paso 10 years ago.

Originally Posted by youngrodder

I learned that the seat riser will not come out without taking the wood out. The back is also spot welded. What I did was used a jig saw and cut the rear tab that runs the lenght of the riser off. Once I remove my wood I will reatach the back tab to the riser.

Good luck
Marc

Big thank you to Marc for his help on this one! You said the seat riser was hard to get out. Wow. The seat riser was the first part down the assembly line in 1948 and they must have built the truck around it.

I didn't want to take the rear floor out yet. Especially with so much support gone from the front. Could have braced it, could have started at the back on the floors. And even though we will not be using the plywood floor, I really did hate to cut this one. It is still really nice.

And just as Marc described, there was the tab / flange across the back spot welded to the cross support. I owe you one Marc!

[C4fivewindow]

Looking good! I think my next project might have to be a burb...

[Iceburgh]

Getting the wood floor out is a *****...have fun with it.
I am not using stock seats so the seat riser was easy for me to get out...plus mine was junk.
Keep digging away

[Iceburgh]

awesome...good on you
Happy to see young guys get into it. I am in 44 and many times I am the youngest street rodder at any show or cruise I go to

[Rods57]

That's really cool,something he will remember for sure.

[99 to Life]

yeah that story is mind blowing. I'd give a left nut to have the opportunity to buy a truck or car my grandparents owned. I'd prolly shed a tear myself!

[youngrodder]

Glad to help you out with the riser. It took me some time/research to figure it out. I was surprised that more people have not tried to remove them. I also found a source that was remaking the metal base of the riser but yours like mine looks repairable. Yes until I get my front floor done I also dont want to remove the body or mess with the rear wood.

That was great of you to give the truck that that young kid. Pay it forward...

I go by the name Youngrodder as I was young (Late 20's) at the time I started my 48 build. Now in my early 40's I too am usually one of the younger people at the shows.

Good luck on the rest of your repair work.

Marc