Poor mans drop - Page 3 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

bird7263 · 03-03-2009, 11:13 PM

Again.. Not saying that because of the 30 years it makes it right.. But when you go to shop that is been in business for over 30 years and has been building custom rod and customs that long.. I have a hard time believing that he would send a car out on the road that would be unsafe.. or be wrong for that matter..

I know of dozens of other guys both here in the northwest and on this website that run 3" blocks and have never had an issue.. Just because a company does not make a 3" block does not mean its not ok to run.. food for thought..

Again just my opinion.

*Shane* · 03-04-2009, 12:13 AM

Opinion has nothing to do with it. It's now useless to further this discussion because it is very apparent that you do not understand scrub-line & interference issues a block of this size has on a trailing arm set up.

I only hope & pray you do not have a flat on the rear of that truck with the 3" blocks when me, my family or someone I know is on the same road as you. I also hope you are not injured when, not if, this occurs.

Good luck.

bird7263 · 03-04-2009, 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shane

Opinion has nothing to do with it. It's now useless to further this discussion because it is very apparent that you do not understand scrub-line & interference issues a block of this size has on a trailing arm set up.

I only hope & pray you do not have a flat on the rear of that truck with the 3" blocks when me, my family or someone I know is on the same road as you. I also hope you are not injured when, not if, this occurs.

Good luck.

I am not trying to argue.. I am only saying that I personally have never seen a problem.. I do understand what would happen if you get a flat. And I do understand scrub-line & interference issues. You are correct on that. I am only offering suggestions that have worked for others and my self. However I have seen a few airbagged and vehicles’ on air fail sparks flying while dragging frame down the freeway.

I apologize to Allen if it seems like I started an argument. This is your thread not mine.

That is one thing I love about this site everyone is very passionate about there trucks and there opinions.. That is what makes our country great. Thanks to you guys that work here and take time out of your days to make this forum happen.

allen123 · 03-04-2009, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bird7263

I apologize to Allen if it seems like I started an argument. This is your thread not mine.

That is one thing I love about this site everyone is very passionate about there trucks and there opinions.. That is what makes our country great. Thanks to you guys that work here and take time out of your days to make this forum happen.

No your fine you have helped out alot

*Shane* · 03-05-2009, 11:38 PM

yeah it's cheap, but why take the chance of a broken spring when you can pop the lower ball joint, cut the spring and reinstall and KNOW the spring hasn't lost it's temper?

for that matter, cutting it is just as cheap

nvr_di · 03-14-2009, 03:28 PM

What other springs will fit the rear of our trucks? Im lookin for around 5'' in the back. I'll probably end up buying drop springs but I just like knowing my options.

*Shane* · 03-14-2009, 05:26 PM

4 inch springs and a 1 inch block will get ya there.

67slammer · 03-15-2009, 08:44 AM

i have 3 set of belltech spring for a chevy celeberty that look like the rear springs in our trucks, they are wound real tight top and bottom. i will try to get some pics today. mike

nvr_di · 03-17-2009, 05:09 PM

anyone happen to have a list of what will fit? You never know what one will come across in the yards.

coast2coast · 03-19-2009, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nvr_di

anyone happen to have a list of what will fit? You never know what one will come across in the yards.

Agreed, a list would be nice. It sounds like a jeep TJ, a chevelle, or a g-body (regal, malibu, monte carlo) rear spring should work. And give you about 2" drop.
Anyone know of an original equipment spring that would provide more drop?

bowtiedriver2 · 04-02-2009, 08:34 PM

<----- In need of the poor mans drop. I would really like to find out what is the least expensive way. Can't justify drop spindles and converting to discs right now.

anyone know where to get U-bolts made around northern IL? I am thinking of cutting one coil in the front and going to CJ springs with 2" blocks in the rear.

chopper103in · 04-06-2009, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowtiedriver2

<----- In need of the poor mans drop. I would really like to find out what is the least expensive way. Can't justify drop spindles and converting to discs right now.

anyone know where to get U-bolts made around northern IL? I am thinking of cutting one coil in the front and going to CJ springs with 2" blocks in the rear.

dont know exactly where your at but elgin spring in elgin might be able to help you out
they are on larkin ave north of us20 about 6 blocks i think

Hard Luck · 04-06-2009, 06:58 PM

Here is a pic of the heated coils I pulled out of my truck from the last guy. Every spring was collapsed and it ended up riding on 3 of the four bump stops and ripping out the front shocks.

I have cut the coils many times. Worst part, if you cut too much you don't have a suspansion anymore, you have a brick.

Second part to consider is that used springs have diffrent sag. Just because your truck sits level now, does not mean it will after the cut even if you remove the same amount from each spring. Put the springs back from the side you pulled them out of and a good thing about our trucks is that you don't have to remove a whole coil at a time. Which means, if one side is higher you can just pull it again and trim a little to level the truck out.

Lastly, stick to the two coil rule. If you need more than that, you want to get it elsewhere. If you are like most and want a lot of drop, start with 1 to 1-1/2 coils. Do not build up too much heat during the cut or the tension will change which means the ride will change. Hacksaw, cutoff tool, or plasma. Stay away from the torch.

Good luck and enjoy!

jrods70 · 03-17-2009, 05:15 PM

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VanceH · 04-15-2009, 09:45 AM

Ok i know there is alot of controversy on doing this the old school or cheap way, but this is what some of us get to do. So with that said, if i cut my front springs (in small increments) and do the same for the rear springs, do i still need the rear blocks?? I am trying to lower the front about 1.5 and rear about 4.5. it is really raked at this time and i dont like the look.

Skirkpat · 04-15-2009, 09:50 AM

I would say no to both, but just a many would say yes to the front....The backs are not able to be cut, 2" lowering blocks are as big as you can go "Safely" ..... Neither should be heated.

VanceH · 04-15-2009, 09:53 AM

ok thanks and i do understand your position, if you use blocks then you dont have to cut the rear springs or replace them with shorter springs?? i guess i dont understand.

63 & 64 Bowties · 04-15-2009, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VanceH

ok thanks and i do understand your position, if you use blocks then you dont have to cut the rear springs or replace them with shorter springs?? i guess i dont understand.

you can't cut rear springs, they're pigtailed on both ends. Get used Chevelle or Jeep springs, or new lowering springs from a vendor.

VanceH · 04-15-2009, 10:08 AM

Perfect!! i did not know they were pig tailed on both ends, ok so lets say i buy some drop springs for the rear, do i still need blocks??

Skirkpat · 04-15-2009, 10:37 AM

"Perfect!! i did not know they were pig tailed on both ends, ok so lets say i buy some drop springs for the rear, do i still need blocks??"

If you need up to 2 more inches of drop? figure out where you want it and it will be easier to know how to get there?

VanceH · 04-15-2009, 10:50 AM

I am wanting to drop my front 2 inchs and my rear somewhere between 4-5. I am looking for rear springs and have found a "Stepped A arm"? looks promising.

terribleone · 04-15-2009, 12:08 PM

I took my springs to a suspension shop and they de-arched them for $25.
Got 2.5" lower. Easy cheap and safe.

Frizzle Fry · 04-15-2009, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terribleone

I took my springs to a suspension shop and they de-arched them for $25.
Got 2.5" lower. Easy cheap and safe.

You are talking leafs now. Most of this thread refers to coils. Good info though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shane

3" blocks are too tall for a trailing arm-type setup.

Shane is right; for 15" wheels. When you go bigger you can run a taller block accordingly. Rule of thumb is +0.5" in block for every +1" in wheel diameter. With that said, I run a 3" block with 22" wheels. I wouldn't want to run much taller blocks than that regardless of scrub line tolerance.

project69c10 · 04-16-2009, 11:37 AM

Cut them or have some body do it for you.i know when i started to build project 69c10,a good friend of mine owned a junk yard,and sold me a set of ccoils for 10 bucks and cut them down to size,thank god for good friends.wow your truck looks like mine did ,mine is a 69 long bed same color same rims what a flash back

ratridechevy454 · 04-18-2009, 08:59 PM

Ok if you lower with chevelle springs and put 2" blocks in to get aprox a 4" drop how about the rearend track locate bar? Can you retain the stock one or need a adjustable one?

03-03-2009, 11:13 PM	#1
bird7263 Urban Chop Shop Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Tigard Oregon Posts: 264	Re: Poor mans drop Again.. Not saying that because of the 30 years it makes it right.. But when you go to shop that is been in business for over 30 years and has been building custom rod and customs that long.. I have a hard time believing that he would send a car out on the road that would be unsafe.. or be wrong for that matter.. I know of dozens of other guys both here in the northwest and on this website that run 3" blocks and have never had an issue.. Just because a company does not make a 3" block does not mean its not ok to run.. food for thought.. Again just my opinion. __________________ 2003 Chevy Trailblazer LTZ, 2.5" Susp Lift, Tinted, HID's/LED interior/ Lot of upgrades and little mods 1965 Chevy 1/2T Longbox, soon to be a slammed shop truck Build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=591266 Semper Fi Marines

03-04-2009, 12:13 AM	#2
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	Re: Poor mans drop Opinion has nothing to do with it. It's now useless to further this discussion because it is very apparent that you do not understand scrub-line & interference issues a block of this size has on a trailing arm set up. I only hope & pray you do not have a flat on the rear of that truck with the 3" blocks when me, my family or someone I know is on the same road as you. I also hope you are not injured when, not if, this occurs. Good luck. Last edited by Shane; 03-04-2009 at 12:19 AM.

03-05-2009, 11:38 PM	#5
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	Re: Poor mans drop yeah it's cheap, but why take the chance of a broken spring when you can pop the lower ball joint, cut the spring and reinstall and KNOW the spring hasn't lost it's temper? for that matter, cutting it is just as cheap

03-14-2009, 03:28 PM	#6
nvr_di Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sacramento, Ca Posts: 37	Re: Poor mans drop What other springs will fit the rear of our trucks? Im lookin for around 5'' in the back. I'll probably end up buying drop springs but I just like knowing my options.

03-14-2009, 05:26 PM	#7
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	Re: Poor mans drop 4 inch springs and a 1 inch block will get ya there.

03-15-2009, 08:44 AM	#8
67slammer Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: muncy pa Posts: 425	Re: Poor mans drop i have 3 set of belltech spring for a chevy celeberty that look like the rear springs in our trucks, they are wound real tight top and bottom. i will try to get some pics today. mike

03-17-2009, 05:09 PM	#9
nvr_di Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sacramento, Ca Posts: 37	Re: Poor mans drop anyone happen to have a list of what will fit? You never know what one will come across in the yards.

04-02-2009, 08:34 PM	#11
bowtiedriver2 Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: IL Posts: 19	Re: Poor mans drop <----- In need of the poor mans drop. I would really like to find out what is the least expensive way. Can't justify drop spindles and converting to discs right now. anyone know where to get U-bolts made around northern IL? I am thinking of cutting one coil in the front and going to CJ springs with 2" blocks in the rear. __________________ '69 LWB Stepside, 350 with mild mods, and 3 speed on the floor Intentions...383 sbc (in assembly stage), trans is still not a definate (3, 5, or 6 speed?), 3/5 drop, power disc brake conversion...then some body work.

04-06-2009, 06:58 PM	#13
Hard Luck I've got grease on my mind. Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Oly, Wa Posts: 481	Re: Poor mans drop Here is a pic of the heated coils I pulled out of my truck from the last guy. Every spring was collapsed and it ended up riding on 3 of the four bump stops and ripping out the front shocks. I have cut the coils many times. Worst part, if you cut too much you don't have a suspansion anymore, you have a brick. Second part to consider is that used springs have diffrent sag. Just because your truck sits level now, does not mean it will after the cut even if you remove the same amount from each spring. Put the springs back from the side you pulled them out of and a good thing about our trucks is that you don't have to remove a whole coil at a time. Which means, if one side is higher you can just pull it again and trim a little to level the truck out. Lastly, stick to the two coil rule. If you need more than that, you want to get it elsewhere. If you are like most and want a lot of drop, start with 1 to 1-1/2 coils. Do not build up too much heat during the cut or the tension will change which means the ride will change. Hacksaw, cutoff tool, or plasma. Stay away from the torch. Good luck and enjoy! Attached Images

03-17-2009, 05:15 PM	#14
jrods70 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: fort collins co Posts: 22	Re: Poor mans drop Welcome to the board! You may not have realized it, but you have to be a subscribing member to post for sale messages. Check out the provided link for details on subscriptions. Last edited by Shane; 03-17-2009 at 06:25 PM.

04-15-2009, 09:45 AM	#15
VanceH Loving the Jimmster Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Emmett, idaho Posts: 575	Re: Poor mans drop Ok i know there is alot of controversy on doing this the old school or cheap way, but this is what some of us get to do. So with that said, if i cut my front springs (in small increments) and do the same for the rear springs, do i still need the rear blocks?? I am trying to lower the front about 1.5 and rear about 4.5. it is really raked at this time and i dont like the look.

04-15-2009, 09:50 AM	#16
Skirkpat Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: K.C. Missouri Posts: 1,024	Re: Poor mans drop I would say no to both, but just a many would say yes to the front....The backs are not able to be cut, 2" lowering blocks are as big as you can go "Safely" ..... Neither should be heated.

04-15-2009, 09:53 AM	#17
VanceH Loving the Jimmster Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Emmett, idaho Posts: 575	Re: Poor mans drop ok thanks and i do understand your position, if you use blocks then you dont have to cut the rear springs or replace them with shorter springs?? i guess i dont understand.

04-15-2009, 10:08 AM	#19
VanceH Loving the Jimmster Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Emmett, idaho Posts: 575	Re: Poor mans drop Perfect!! i did not know they were pig tailed on both ends, ok so lets say i buy some drop springs for the rear, do i still need blocks??

04-15-2009, 10:37 AM	#20
Skirkpat Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: K.C. Missouri Posts: 1,024	Re: Poor mans drop "Perfect!! i did not know they were pig tailed on both ends, ok so lets say i buy some drop springs for the rear, do i still need blocks??" If you need up to 2 more inches of drop? figure out where you want it and it will be easier to know how to get there? Last edited by Skirkpat; 04-15-2009 at 10:37 AM.



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04-15-2009, 10:50 AM	#21
VanceH Loving the Jimmster Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Emmett, idaho Posts: 575	Re: Poor mans drop I am wanting to drop my front 2 inchs and my rear somewhere between 4-5. I am looking for rear springs and have found a "Stepped A arm"? looks promising.

04-15-2009, 12:08 PM	#22
terribleone Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 11	Re: Poor mans drop I took my springs to a suspension shop and they de-arched them for $25. Got 2.5" lower. Easy cheap and safe.

04-16-2009, 11:37 AM	#24
project69c10 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: turlock ca 95382 Posts: 10	Re: Poor mans drop Cut them or have some body do it for you.i know when i started to build project 69c10,a good friend of mine owned a junk yard,and sold me a set of ccoils for 10 bucks and cut them down to size,thank god for good friends.wow your truck looks like mine did ,mine is a 69 long bed same color same rims what a flash back

04-18-2009, 08:59 PM	#25
ratridechevy454 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: butler,pa. Posts: 3	Re: Poor mans drop Ok if you lower with chevelle springs and put 2" blocks in to get aprox a 4" drop how about the rearend track locate bar? Can you retain the stock one or need a adjustable one?

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