ID '60-'62 POwer Brake Booster Adapter Bracket With A Clutch

[Captainfab]

Thanks

Originally Posted by 60ShortStepGMC

Nice product CaptainFab!

[J Williams]

Okay Captainfab, I had talked to you earlier about my 63 C10 NV3500 conversion. So I am ready to get this underway. You show the 60-62 C10 with the vacuum booster and clutch mc bracket along with the Wilwood MC and all needed hardware for 199$ Will this be the same price for the 63 C10? Let me know a price and how you want paid.

Thanks again for your R&D

[J Williams]

Also I would like to add power steering. Could you give me a package deal with the power steering mounting plate as well? Thanks again

[Captainfab]

I replied to your PM

[Peneffer]

Just sent you a quick message. Can't wait.

[Captainfab]

I replied to your PM

Originally Posted by Peneffer

Just sent you a quick message. Can't wait.

[allisrules]

I like your idea would like to have the option 2 set up for my 1961. Please advise how I could compliant a transaction with you.

[Captainfab]

I replied to your PM

Originally Posted by allisrules

I like your idea would like to have the option 2 set up for my 1961. Please advise how I could compliant a transaction with you.

[concretekiller]

Good morning Captain Fab. I have a couple of questions for you;

1. Has anyone ever had the threaded rod bend and break that goes between the clutch pedal eyelet and the cantilever piece?
2. Has anyone ever had the lower bolt that goes through the master cylinder, firewall, and into the aluminum threaded bracket break?
3. Has anyone ever had the master cylinder rod bend?

The reason I ask is that all three of these have happened to me. I replaced the firewall bolt once and the threaded rod once already, and they have both bent and broken again. The master cylinder is the same bore as the slave cylinder, and the slave cylinder came as a hydraulic clutch kit from novak (http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/kit_hcrc.htm). Any insight as to the issues at hand?

[Captainfab]

I have not heard of any of those things happening to any of my customers. There should not be that much pressure on those parts. Do you have one of my kits?

Originally Posted by concretekiller

Good morning Captain Fab. I have a couple of questions for you;

1. Has anyone ever had the threaded rod bend and break that goes between the clutch pedal eyelet and the cantilever piece?
2. Has anyone ever had the lower bolt that goes through the master cylinder, firewall, and into the aluminum threaded bracket break?
3. Has anyone ever had the master cylinder rod bend?

The reason I ask is that all three of these have happened to me. I replaced the firewall bolt once and the threaded rod once already, and they have both bent and broken again. The master cylinder is the same bore as the slave cylinder, and the slave cylinder came as a hydraulic clutch kit from novak (http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/kit_hcrc.htm). Any insight as to the issues at hand?

[concretekiller]

Yea, this is your kit.

[koolkat269]

How do I order one?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If you have a manual transmission in your truck and also want power brakes, this is what you need. This bracket is fabricated from laser cut 10ga. mild steel and fits 1960-62 Chevy and 1960-63 GMC pickups, Suburban and Panels and is 100% bolt on using holes already in your firewall. The booster side of the bracket has a 3 3/8" x 3 1/2" hole pattern. Boosters with this pattern are commonly found on S10's and full size pickups from 1988 to at least 1998, Suburbans, Blazers and Tahoes from 1992 to at least 1998. You can also find compatable boosters on early to mid 70's Impalas and Caprices. Of course you will have to join the booster pushrod to your stock MC pushrod that attaches to your brake pedal. This can be done by either threading both ends and using a coupling nut, or by just welding them together once you determine the correct length.

For the hydraulic clutch master, this is setup to use a readily available Wilwood master cylinder. To install the master cylinder you will have to drill (2) 11/32" holes for the mounting bolts, and a 1 1/2" hole (with a hole saw) to accomodate the center of the master cylinder. The supplied standoff simply bolts to your brake pedal using an existing hole. Then the pushrod and heim joint screw onto the clutch master pushrod on one end and to bolts to the standoff on the other end.


This adapter plate kit contains the adapter plate with mounting hardware, the standoff, pushrod and heim joint with related hardware and the Wilwood master cylinder. The cost on this is $207.50 plus the flat rate shipping cost of $16.90. As with my other brake booster brackets, you can add powder coating for an additional $8.50. Satin black is a normally stocked color, but other colors are available.

Please see posts #33, #43 & #44

[Captainfab]

I will send you a PM with ordering and payment info.

Originally Posted by koolkat269

How do I order one?

[62chevy302]

If i use a 88-98 booster will a 73-87 master cylinder work right and bolt to the booster?

[Captainfab]

Yes that will all bolt together.

Originally Posted by 62chevy302

If i use a 88-98 booster will a 73-87 master cylinder work right and bolt to the booster?

[koolkat269]

has anyone have this happen to them?

[Auctioneerhere]

Will this work on my GMC 2 ton truck? If so what master cyl do you recommend?

[Captainfab]

What year is your GMC? Does it have a hydraulic clutch? Are you keeping the manual trans and hydraulic clutch? I assume it still has all 4 drum brakes? I'm not sure if a '80's Class B motorhome master will work with a drum/drum brake system.

Originally Posted by Auctioneerhere

Will this work on my GMC 2 ton truck? If so what master cyl do you recommend?

[Auctioneerhere]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

What year is your GMC? Does it have a hydraulic clutch? Are you keeping the manual trans and hydraulic clutch? I assume it still has all 4 drum brakes? I'm not sure if a '80's Class B motorhome master will work with a drum/drum brake system.

It is a 64-66 cab w/ an older 61 perhaps frame 2 ton, so yes 4 drum brakes.

Front suspension is a torsion bar set up. motor home is a good idea, I suppose I can look at what a newer 2 on has for a braking system also.

[Captainfab]

If the cab originally had a hydraulic clutch, then this bracket and kit is what you will need. If it did not originally have a hydraulic clutch, you will need the conversion kit that I make for the '63-'66's

Another thought is, you may be able to use a master for a '67-'72? C60. Those should be a dual reservoir and designed for drum/drum brakes.

Originally Posted by Auctioneerhere

It is a 64-66 cab w/ an older 61 perhaps frame 2 ton, so yes 4 drum brakes.

Front suspension is a torsion bar set up. motor home is a good idea, I suppose I can look at what a newer 2 on has for a braking system also.

[snuff123]

Captianfab , I would like to buy a 60'-62' Power Brake Booster Adapter Bracket with Clutch. How do I pay for it !! I would like to send you a M.O. Danny S.

[Captainfab]

I replied to your PM.

Originally Posted by snuff123

Captianfab , I would like to buy a 60'-62' Power Brake Booster Adapter Bracket with Clutch. How do I pay for it !! I would like to send you a M.O. Danny S.

[pmeyers]

I'm moving this question over from the wrong thread
This for sale thread is for the '63-'66 standard booster bracket. Here is the thread for the '60-'62 trucks with the hydraulic clutch.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=362375

You can not use a master cylinder designed for a disc/drum braking system on a truck that has a drum/drum braking system. You need a drum/drum master cylinder and the appropriate booster. With that booster you would have to use a master cylinder for a 1970 Buick Estate wagon with power brakes. Are you still using the original slave cylinder?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyers View Post
Captainfab,
Just finished the brakes on my 62 C10 that has a hydraulic clutch - drum/drum. I want to add a booster using your kit including the mounting bracket and wilwood clutch cylinder.
I just picked up an early 90's Booster and master cylinder setup from a Chevy 1500. Bolts measure 3 3/8x 31/2 so booster should be fine. Wondering if I can use the mc that is already on it or do I need a different mc. Also from reading previous posts it appears that I can eliminate the proportioning valve since it is drum/drum? Posted a picture of the booster assembly if that helps. Will get my order in as soon as I am sure I have the right parts. Thanks for your help,
Paul

[pmeyers]

After looking more closely at the mc it became apparent that it was for disc brakes so I will have to locate a different mc. Yes I do have the original slave cylinder.
In your earlier pictures you indicate that the booster can come from 1988-98 fullsize pickup. Which I believe what this booster is from. The only mc that would work with this booster is from a 1970 Buick Estate wagon? An earlier chevy truck mc wouldn't work?

[Captainfab]

The '88-'98 booster has the short intermediate pushrod. With that booster you must use a master cylinder that is designed for the short intermediate pushrod. For a drum/drum braking system, the only master that I know of is the 1970 Buick Estate wagon power brake master. The '67-'70 truck master is designed for a long intermediate pushrod and will not work with the '88-'98 booster. You could use the booster and master cylinder for a '67-'70 truck. That is what I recommend for a drum/drum system.