Gathering parts for front disc brakes for 1969

[dmjlambert]

They look the same to me, and the nuts are the same size. The one with left hand threads has a grease port on the end where I point the arrow. On my 1969 center link and tie rod assembly that I took off the truck, the inner tie rod has the grease port in that position.

[MikeB]

Here are the Moog P/Ns for 71-72 C10.

Inner: ES403L, 8.74" length
Outer: ES415RL, 6.385" length

[dmjlambert]

Thanks Keith and Mike!

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Are the tapered studs the same size?

They are the same as long as you are using a 71-72 center link and a 71-72 spindle. The inner and outer tie rods will have the same taper.
63-70 is a different taper.
73-87 is a different taper.

[dmjlambert]

This is the outer tie rod connected to the spindle, it is wrench-snug and I have not put a torque wrench on it yet. Since that hole in the threaded portion of the joint is almost of out of the range of the castle nut notches, should I put a washer under the nut?

I guess I should more properly ask is there any reason to not put a washer under the nut? It seems to be a good idea to add a washer.

[MikeB]

More importantly, how tight is the fit? Something's not right there.

[dmjlambert]

The fit feels fine. It is tight enough to require a separator tool to pop the threaded post out of the hole. When the nut it tight it has about 1/4 inch more of threads that it could turn onto if the spindle was thinner. I am thinking everything is fine except the hole for the cotter pin will not place the cotter pin well inside a notch of the nut. When it is tight I was not able to insert a cotter pin without lining up a notch on the hole. So we are not talking a great amount of added thickness of the spindle needed.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

The fit feels fine. It is tight enough to require a separator tool to pop the threaded post out of the hole. When the nut it tight it has about 1/4 inch more of threads that it could turn onto if the spindle was thinner. I am thinking everything is fine except the hole for the cotter pin will not place the cotter pin well inside a notch of the nut. When it is tight I was not able to insert a cotter pin without lining up a notch on the hole. So we are not talking a great amount of added thickness of the spindle needed.

One grade 8 flat washer should work.

[dmjlambert]

I used one washer. It is steel. At the hardware store where I went there were not grades to choose from. The place where it goes on the spindle is very flat, and the washer does not appear to deform at all when the nut is torqued. I feel pretty comfortable it is going to be fine.

[dmjlambert]

Here is an update about the tubing since I'm here thinking about this thread. I ended up buying Inline Tube front steel pre-bent brake lines for 71-72, and rear and front-to-rear steel pre-bent brake lines for 1969. The front set includes the rear brake lines that go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve, and from the proportioning valve to the cross member, and from the cross member to the passenger side frame. The front-to-rear and rear brake line pre-bent for 1969 simply replace the old lines I had on the 1969, and they connect using the exiting union on the passenger side frame.

The 1969 tubing that goes from the distribution block to the passenger side frame was all one piece, but on the 71-72 front tubing set it is divided into 2 pieces, so I bought a Dorman union at the car parts store. That union goes next to the front brake tee on the back side of the cross member.

So far I have everything in place for the front brakes, but need to finish up tubing clamps.

The Inline tube hose bracket is not the best thing and required modification because it is at the wrong angle and is twice as thick where the tube attaches for some reason, and the hole where the tube goes through is too big. So I had to do modifications. I don't think anybody makes something suitable for our trucks.

[pjmoreland]

That's disappointing to hear about the Inline Tube brackets. I added a comment about these brackets to the thread I made when I did this conversion. A better route might be to salvage the brackets off of a 71-72 crossmember. Not the easiest thing to find these days though.

[dmjlambert]

When I get some welding skills I think I may get the Speedway retaining tabs for the part with the hole and get the Inline Tube tabs for the base, and weld them together.

[dmjlambert]

The parts I gathered that I didn't mention earlier include:

1. NAPA part M36280 new master cylinder for manual brakes with deep pushrod hole, 1-1/8 bore, and larger reservoir in front for the front brakes. Much research in this other thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...71#post8762671
2. A used 71-72 combination valve (proportioning valve) which I sent to White Post Restorations to rebuild. https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving...ding-services/

Both are painted, so perhaps they will stay looking good for a while. The brakes have a nice feel. They are more responsive and take less pedal effort than the 1969 all-drum setup. I am glad I went with manual brakes.

[Accelo]

Glad you are up and running. Changing the brakes to disks is a much bigger job than most realize. You helped yourself out by doing the research. Rebuilding the proportioning valve instead of going new may have saved you a big headache. I couldn't get the first two to not leak! Third time was a charm.
I have no idea why someone can't come up with a plug and play system for retrofitting the C10's. The only ones available are the "Plug and Pray" systems.
Cheers and good job.