My '67 Chevy C20 "Camper Special" Build

[DJ_Baar]

Always something. Had to modify transmission dust cover for new starter, and that took awhile to shim - but got 'er right (I think)

[DJ_Baar]

What do ya'all think for exhaust tailpipe? Angled back (#1), forward (#2), or down (#3)?

Using 2.5" downpipes from stock ram horns. Luv the pipes! Last picture was before I put bed back on & decided to ad a bit to bring pipes outside frame.

The mufflers are "Cherry Bomb" Vortex --- a bit glass pack, turbo, & vane all in one.

& still need to add another hanger for support outside frame rail.

Next will wrap downpipe, especially starter side because clearance is tight and will help keep starter from cooking. More pictures after that.

[DJ_Baar]

Decided to go with #2, like "bologna cut" pipes on a scoot.

& other (Driver) side under bed clearance.

I put em 5" off ground both sides of truck to balance angels of pipes.

Cant wait to here em🖒😎 Working engine tomorrow - exhaust wrap and new Scorpion full roller rockers - need to confirm rocker geometry - basically pushrod length.

[DJ_Baar]

Wrapped 2.5" downpipes. Hoping "lava titanium exhaust wrap" will help keep starter cool. (Tight minimal clearance between downpipe & starter, & brake line too.)

[DJ_Baar]

Its all about valve train geometry! Stock length (7.800) to long, recommended +0.100 (7.900) I purchased, way to long, but now adjusting to shorter 7.750 (with length checker tool) looks correct. Live & learn ... like full roller rockers now too. Ordering pushrods in hardened steel (required for guide plates) from Comp Cams (less expensive than same from Edelbrock).

[DJ_Baar]

I replaced Sport roller-tips with full Scorpion 1.5 Roller Rockers & corrected pushrod length (geometry) with shorter pushrods I measured for. Finished-up today with adjustments (a couple needed the pushrod guides moved too,) and worked several other things like distributor and coil install (Pertronix Flamethrower Ignitor 3 set). Have a whole lot more to go, but its looking good. What Ya'all think of the modified air cleaner I'm using now?

[DJ_Baar]

Got windshield & dashpad installed today in "Blue." Could not have done without my Friend Jason Dufrene & a WHOLE LOT OF PATIENCE!

[DJ_Baar]

Working an issue with new power steering pump and fitting (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=764039).

And pressing-on with inside cab floor, firewall inuslation, etc.... Will have more pictures as it's coming together. Taking time off around Memorial Day to max-out some work on this ol'truck.

[DJ_Baar]

Think I just got sorted-out the problems with power steering pump fittings for original high pressure line, (separate blog), now trouble making alternator work. See separate following link for more info.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...06#post8269106

[DJ_Baar]

Finally getting insulation in cab with new replacement cardboard & jute. Rebuilt dash with a 5K Tach, and complete gauge package. Moving-on to complete AAW (American Auto Wiring wiring upgrade. Need to first complete rebuilding brake assembly (under dash) and install new steering column. More pictures soon.

[DJ_Baar]

I bought a replacement steering column and intermediate shaft (since for a '67) from Brother's truck.

Problem is the replacement intermediate shaft one has a flat spot (original does NOT) and two, it appears to be slightly larger too (cannot tight down if I want to).

I do have a replacement rag joint kit I planned to use before deciding upon complete column replacement. SO, I will take best of two to make one. Wish me luck.

This should have not been so much trouble and should have been simply remove and replace since that is why I bought the complete column AND intermediate shafts after viewing their video (and taking advantage of a SALE).

Its Memorial Day Weekend, so emailing BROTHERS with pictures to best explain, if not for me, for next Customer.

[DJ_Baar]

Cleaned-up OLD rag joint coupler connection to power steering assisted gear box (with cylinder like Vette,) and used a steering coupler rag joint rebuild kit to make it work. Should work. I used red Locktite to make sure it would not come apart.

I figured-out this intermediate shaft kit was made to fit a STANDARD POWER STEERING GEAR BOX. Attached a picture of complete intermediate steering column assembly sold for attaching new tilt steering column in a '67-68 Chevy truck.

(The rubber caps were just to keep the intermediate shaft in place as I work installing the rest of the column to includes a D shaft to splined U-joint coupler.)

[Aus69c20]

Loving your work so far. Keep at it.

[DJ_Baar]

Finished installing insulation (both the OEM cardboard style and a heat/sound deadener). Then started with new American Auto Wire (AAW) wiring UPGRADE that included a little firewall modification for new current blade style fuze block.

Note that I installed a speaker that would work with STOCK style vent duct. I did this modification to the Classic Auto Air system I am installing.

I'm bouncing around a bit, but trying to work all this together as this ol'truck comes back together.

[DJ_Baar]

Started install of new CLASSIC Auto Air system.

Some pictures of firewall being cut and finished (to include fresh paint and grommets around lines); similar with under the dash. Some of the simplest things can become so much work to get just right, but worth it in the end.

Have more wiring to complete and switches to install before radio goes in and need to connect the vacuum gauge and oil lines for oil pressure gauge. (Mechanical oil pressure gauge will need to be bled after cranking engine over electrically.)

Also a few set backs and more parts ordered for many miscellaneous things.

Moving along, slow but sure

[DJ_Baar]

Marc from American Auto Wire (AAW) hooked me up with http://www.classicinstruments.com/ to see about getting my Ammeter converted to a Voltmeter. Its simply safer. Working now with Cliff from Classic Instruments for a quote and sending them the meter (shown in pictures attached).

Considering change to mechanical oil pressure gauge to electrical as bleeding an oil line into and under dash and any leaks can be a nuisance at best.

Networking with folks with the knowledge &/or experience, makes a difference!

[DJ_Baar]

It's been slow progress lately due to a LOT of odd setbacks, but working thru them slow, but sure. Need to get correct size belts now for alternator & A/C compressor now that brackets WORK!

That & fittings for Power Steering Pump & pump to carb fuel line, & a variety of other little things needed or found to complete BIG jobs like wiring, steering column, & HVAC installs.....

Todd Rusk came thru with the alternator bracket for me and it works GREAT! A BIG thank you there.

Sent dash gauge cluster off to Tom Garris to update battery gauge from ammeter to voltmeter & put an electric oil pressure gauge in to remove mechanical with oil line under dash. Only line will be for vacuum gauge (& using copper).

Getting 'er done though - just not soon enough - Ha.

[DJ_Baar]

Making some progress.

* I got rebuilt wiper motor & pump installed along with new hoses.

* I got all of the HVAC ducting installed, along with my modified center feed so I can use side feed with Classic Auto Air and still have upgraded dash speaker (two in one).

* Had an issue with fuel pump and contacted Retailer. Had tightened it down but it came loose and now cannot tighten. Its like the flare fitting came free inside pump or it didn't have it? I confirmed the stock fuel pump has a flare fitting to tight outlet line to, but have not got a good picture of this aftermarket "Mr. Gasket" pump outlet.

* Then had a perplexing issue trying to install new ignition switch in dash. I will leave that to my other separate feed. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=766263

Well back to work tomorrow to make more $$$ to work this project.

DJ

[DJ_Baar]

Todd Rusk hooked me up with this (separate correspondence):
https://www.cooperrestorations.com/p...nition-spacer/

As remedy for ignition switch problem. It was used only one year, like the shorter bezel.

0849-215 This ignition spacer fits:
1967 Chevrolet Pickup Truck and Suburban
1967 GMC Pickup Truck and Suburban

Measurement 1.5x1x1

Hopefully get word back from Supplier of Mr. Gasket fuel pump soon and sort that out.

[DJ_Baar]

It's coming, slow but sure. Got most of dash, eng, A/C, & stereo wired-up on "Blue."

Note that I added the passenger floor kick panel vent since I removed the factory HVAC for Classic Auto Air setup. (Rebuilt a couple vents I found on eBay.)

I have new aluminum radiator ready to go in, just waiting on relay kit for twin fans.😉

The adapter for fuel line to new pump appears to work, will know for sure when pump runs 🤔

[DJ_Baar]

Radiator Hoses for 355 Gen I SBC & Aluminum Radiator with twin 80W Fans in my '67 C20 Restomod.

The expensive Mishimoto silicone hoses I order (via eBay) to have on-hand when ready to install DID NOT FIT.

So after some research, I used NAPA PN 7368 for Upper & 7463 for Lower (basically GATES Hoses I understand), that work with a later model 350 SBC in a K20. Had to also get a later model thermostat housing to direct the hose in right direction, but as pictures show, both upper & lower now work. & lower hose now clears the frame too!

Yes I have not put clamps on yet, but will do that & call it a night.

Listing this for reference.

DJ

[DJ_Baar]

Another set back, new water pump is leaking! It appears to be leaking from weep hole on bottom of pump.

Only just started putting antifreeze in - 2.5 gallons & I notice a drip & it's not the hose! �� That is there to leak when bearings wear-out, not with a "quality" new pump. Bought from Speedway Motors and they are usually pretty good to back their parts, but out-of-office until tomorrow.

I was planning to complete the wiring for fans ... oh well, better now than later when grill & A/C condenser & the plumbing for that done too. ��

[DJ_Baar]

Found the leak!

Didn't think I tightened that fitting tight enough to crack the water pump housing. Snugged with some liquid Teflon paste. Couldn't seek this with pulley in the way before.

Note, that the 3/4" hose fitting had to be changed to a 5/8" for the new HVAC heater hose.

[kiwikid]

have you done the drip rails yet ? if so do you have any photos , did you use after market rails ? about do mine trying to get any help your doing a great job

[DJ_Baar]

kiwikid,

Yes and I had issues, see page 2 of this thread.

Basically aftermarket drip rail replacements are NOT same size as originals; slightly smaller in height. So, I had to change both left and right to mirror each other.

Glad I did though as I found issues with Driver side too. Not as bad as Passenger side, but a repair I will not have to worry about now later.

Note I also had a "leak" under dash and found that prior owner "stuffed RTV" in rotted spot under cowl. I cut that out, welded area back up, and now should not have any water leaks. Basically I ended up doing a whole lot more to cab and ended up basically doing a frame off resto since I also changed the cab mounts.

Hope this helps?