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08-02-2004, 04:26 PM | #51 |
ROCKET POWER!
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Finland, Europe
Posts: 509
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Casey, who told you that 1982 blocks were the strongest 6.2 liter ones produced?
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What did i do last nite? I had a wonderful time, That's what they tell me What did i do last nite? 1979 C-10 shortfleet: Olds 350, Th400, 12 bolt Current project: 1969 Olds 455 W-30, needing a rebuild |
08-03-2004, 01:45 PM | #52 |
Ultimate Diesel Dude
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southwest Missouri
Posts: 328
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I'm not sure where the information originally came from, but the latest news at www.thedieselpage.com is that 82 blocks had more nickel content than later blocks, and that some military 6.2L blocks also had higher nickel content. We're still trying to confirm that. It does appear that broken cranks and cracked main web bearings are found more often on 83 and later blocks than on the 82's.
Another thing the 82's are supposed to have going for them is a different camshaft gear, which changes the timing a bit, as well as the heads have larger valves than some of the later 80's engines. However, the stock fuel system and injectors don't allow for as much power, as well as more restricted pre-combustion chambers. Seems like one of the latest trends now is to find either the 599 92-93 blocks, or find a good 82 block, for rebuilding a heavy duty 6.2L. Casey
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Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's |
08-03-2004, 08:56 PM | #53 |
BAD BOW-Silverado XST
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Senior Member from Austin, TX
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Where are the tire smoking pictures???? GREAT JOB!!!
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08-04-2004, 07:57 AM | #54 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: colorado
Posts: 24
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6.2 conversion
Awsome job, did this start out as a gas engine? I want to pull my old 350 and replace it with a 6.2, I know I need to add a switch for glowplugs, the fuel pump and injection pump are mechanical so what else would be needed? Also wondering if anyone knows where to get a whiring diagram specific to a 6.2 for potential wiring harness changes..
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Remember the fallen. 9-11-01 76 K5 4X4 custom roll cage/soft-top, turbo 400 & np 208 http://www.youtube.com/sp2fraggle http://www.oilfieldtrash.biz Last edited by firefighterpickett; 08-04-2004 at 11:20 AM. |
08-04-2004, 07:24 PM | #55 |
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lets see, wiring for the 6.2. you need one key on hot 12 for the injection pump. Another just the same for the cold advance and fast idle solenoid that goes through a temp switch on the back of the head. If you do a manual glow control with a momentary button......that's it. One wire turns it on and off, very simple. And you'll need a vac pump for all your ac and heat vent doors. Snag the hydroboost and lines from a donor pickup.
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08-05-2004, 11:09 AM | #56 |
Ultimate Diesel Dude
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southwest Missouri
Posts: 328
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Hey Firefighter!
Yeah, my truck originally came with a 305. The 6.2L will bolt right in, but you'll need all of the other engine accessories, like alternator, ps pump, a/c compressor, radiator, and things like that. If at all possible, try and snag a complete donor truck, where the body may be shot, but the 6.2L and all it's associated parts are good. This will simplify things greatly. Also, check out www.thedieselpage.com They are completely devoted to GM diesels. There is a small membership fee, but if you're serious about going to 6.2L, it'll be the best money you'll spend. Casey
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Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's |
08-05-2004, 11:25 AM | #57 |
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Location: South Carolina
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6.2 power
First off, you boosted yer horsepower on the 6.2 a whopping 20 to 30 horsepower... Congrats, because you have more patience than 99% of the people on here to do that.. But....
The bottom end of a 6.2 is not designed for the added pressure of turbocharging.. The camshaft is not profiled for it. If the fuel pump has not been recalibrated you are starving your engine.. But since you are going for this,, you might want to air to air aftercool this intake air.. But, when yer done with all that,,, go drive something with a Cummins in it.. Power starts in the low end, and stays across the board.. Good luck A Cummins Employee |
08-05-2004, 03:47 PM | #58 |
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Thanx, that is about what I had in mind, no a/c as I've taken the top off and formed my own rollcage on the back, I have a 6.2 cut out that needs only a new clutch fan and fuel pump. I'm planning on doing some maintence to it before dropping her in, but for the most part it is ready to go.
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Remember the fallen. 9-11-01 76 K5 4X4 custom roll cage/soft-top, turbo 400 & np 208 http://www.youtube.com/sp2fraggle http://www.oilfieldtrash.biz |
08-06-2004, 01:08 PM | #59 |
"The dude abides"
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 472
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What kind of a post was that? Cummins are nice, but the 6.2L is a damn good engine that deserves more respect then it has gotten. Dad's got a 83 GMC Conversion van with the 6.2L in it. It started its first 78,000 miles as a tow vehicle. Towing a fully enclosed race car trailer with car, tires, tools, etc, and his buddies in his crew in the van. Since then dad has had it and has used it to tow around his tandem axle trailer and hauled everything from cars to moving me and my sisters about 500 times! The van now sits with 150,000 miles on it. Around 130,000 he finally replaced the injectors and pump for the first time. Engine still has lots of power, and still pulls strong. It is getting harder to start when cold, but with the miles, I don't think it is too bad.
(Now don't throw back something like the Cummins in a semi that sees nothing but highway miles. Yea they get more miles on them, but much less city time) Don't get me wrong. Cummins a good engine. Just not worth trashing a 6.2 on someone else's thread. Besides, the fact of knowing that he did it all himself is worth it, in my opinion.
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RockMan 1993 Chevy Silverado C3500 1 ton dually 1994 Honda Civic 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S 1953 IH Farmall Super M New to the fleet: 1992 Subaru Loyal |
08-06-2004, 02:53 PM | #60 | |
Ultimate Diesel Dude
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southwest Missouri
Posts: 328
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Quote:
But thanks, really, to Rockman. Thanks for your support! Casey
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Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's Last edited by arveetek; 08-20-2004 at 11:54 AM. Reason: My original response was not helpful, didn't have anything nice to say. |
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08-07-2004, 01:18 PM | #61 | |
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Quote:
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08-11-2004, 11:46 AM | #62 |
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Location: South Carolina
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Well, first off, if I am getting an education in horsepower, we should talk about something other than a diesel.. We all know what diesel's do, and it's not for race cars(though a Cummins Diesel powered car did race at Indy and won)..
I am not here to piss off any of you GM Diesel lovers.. I drive a Chevy and own a 1979 GMC myself,, but facts are facts.. They may have not changed the cam between the 6.2 and the 6.5,, but if they did not, they simply reinforce my point.. When you go from NA to turbocharged,, things have to change.. You did get yer pump recalibrated, but the bottom line is you have still increased cylinder pressures in an engine that until the 6.5,, was not designed that way.. You also have increased cylinder temps, as you compress air the temp goes up. If these items didn't need to be addressed,, everyone would still be driving 6.2 turbocharged engines insted of the 6.5 and on to the duramax later.. Infact, instead of turbocharging,, why didn't you just advance the fuel pump? Heck, might wash down the cylinder walls under heavy pulling one day,, but it's free power.. Good day Bloz |
08-11-2004, 02:26 PM | #63 |
LED King
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,087
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What arveetek did is an awesome thing. Who wouldn't like a 6.2 diesel w/ a turbo?
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Tyler 1985 C10 305 w/ Bowtie OD TH700R4 3.42 LSD 202,000 miles 2006 Ford Focus ZX3 5-speed Stick 2016 Chevy Spark EV Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 Gone: 2008 VW R32 Last edited by MHC; 08-11-2004 at 04:54 PM. Reason: .................. |
08-11-2004, 04:42 PM | #64 |
Catchy title goes here..
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Location: Rockwell, NC
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All ya'll calm down... Opinions are just that, if you don't like them ignore em and move on. I don't want to close threads because of pissing matches and thats where all this is going. We may all have different ideas and some of us come across a little more harsh then others. As of now quit the fighting.........
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08-11-2004, 07:46 PM | #65 |
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Location: Ft. Worth, TX
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absolutely no mechanical difference between a 6.2 and the latest version of the 6.5 except, coated piston crowns and .080" of bore.........that's it. Educate me on the camshaft differences between the two. Obviously the fuel output is different on my stock 140 hp '82 vs. a 190 hp '99. The fuel output on my 250 hp pump is a bit different, and so is the air requirement to burn it. Big deal......it's all math.
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08-11-2004, 10:55 PM | #66 |
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MHC has brought up a good point, if you don't have anything nice to say, then shut up
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08-13-2004, 11:00 PM | #67 |
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glow plugs
So than am I correct in assuming that I can remove the glowplug controller and just hard wire them to a switch? I have a 85-93 with type 4 electroic controll setup, also is the blocky fuel filter that is mounted on my intake which i blieve to be a air blled valve equipped fuel filter the only one I need or should i also have a second one, inline on the firewall ( by using a transplanted set up)?
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Remember the fallen. 9-11-01 76 K5 4X4 custom roll cage/soft-top, turbo 400 & np 208 http://www.youtube.com/sp2fraggle http://www.oilfieldtrash.biz |
08-14-2004, 02:23 AM | #68 |
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I also need to identify the wires from my inj. pump, two single, one two wire, one three wire plugs. There are two sensors I am also not familar with, on the passenger side, one on top of the head, and one on the lower side of it, both two plugs.
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Remember the fallen. 9-11-01 76 K5 4X4 custom roll cage/soft-top, turbo 400 & np 208 http://www.youtube.com/sp2fraggle http://www.oilfieldtrash.biz |
08-16-2004, 04:19 PM | #69 |
Ultimate Diesel Dude
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southwest Missouri
Posts: 328
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Firefighter,
Yes, you can do away with the glow controller, but use a relay, don't hard wire them directly to the switch itself. The glow plugs can pull well over a 100 amps when warming up the engine, so you would burn up a standard switch in no time. Use a Ford style starter relay, with the wires from the glow plugs going to one large terminal, battery cable on the other large terminal, and a 12 volt positive wire going from your in-cab switch to the small terminal on the relay. The solenoid should ground through the body, so mount it to the firewall or frame. When you start the truck, push and hold the switch on for about 10 seconds, then start the engine. It's best to use a momentary, spring-loaded style switch so that you don't forget and leave the plugs on and burn them out. The stock square fuel filters used on the '84 to '88 trucks were a single-filter system. They used a single filter on the firewall. The '82-'83 trucks used two round spin-on filters, a primary on the firewall and a secondary on the intake manifold. The '89 and later trucks used a round, canister style filter mounted in the "V" of the engine. If you have a square filter mounted directly to the intake manifold, it sounds like your engine came from a van, and I don't know if they used a primary and secondary filter or not. There will be three plugs on the injection pump: the one on the passenger's side towards the front is the fuel cut-off solenoid. 12 volts to this terminal keeps the engine running, removing 12 volts shuts it off. The other terminal on the passenger's side towards the center of the pump is the HPCA, or housing pressure cold advance. Basically, when the engine is cold, the timing is advanced about 3 degrees for easier starts. This is controlled by a temp. switch on the right rear head. The third terminal on the pump is on the driver's side and is actually mounted to the fast idle solenoid. It physically pushes down on the throttle lever and bumps the idle up during cold starts. This is on the same circuit as the HPCA and the two can be wired together. One of the sensors on the engine you found is for the HPCA, and the other is probably for the glow plugs, to prevent them from coming on when the engine is warm. I can't recall at the moment which is which. Casey
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Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's |
08-18-2004, 06:55 PM | #70 |
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spring controller on injection pump
Great, that is pretty much what I was thinking, I have some wires in place and so I know which swich is the temp switch, just wasn't sure what it did with glowplugs, and pump. The engine is indeed out of a van, it had a long dip stick and tub, the filter looks like the secondary rectangular filter (with a fuel heater) that is shown in the haynes manual that I bought, so I belive I will need to add a screw on type on the firewall which is what I was expecting to do. however on the pass. side of the injection pump is what appears to be a spring driven module with five wires coming from it, any idea as to what that may be?
thanx again seth
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Remember the fallen. 9-11-01 76 K5 4X4 custom roll cage/soft-top, turbo 400 & np 208 http://www.youtube.com/sp2fraggle http://www.oilfieldtrash.biz Last edited by firefighterpickett; 08-19-2004 at 08:20 AM. Reason: new question |
08-19-2004, 11:35 AM | #71 |
Ultimate Diesel Dude
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southwest Missouri
Posts: 328
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Yep, that thing on the side of the injection pump is the TPS used to control the lockup torque converter on the 700R4 transmission. You don't need it, just junk it, even if you'll be using a 700. I don't have one on mine, and I just wired up the tranny so that I could control lockup in 2nd and 3rd gears manually, and 4th gear automatically.
Casey
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Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's |
08-19-2004, 11:52 AM | #72 |
Catchy title goes here..
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rockwell, NC
Posts: 39,798
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Casey,
If you have time, why don't you write up a small tech article on what you have done. IMO it would be a good benefit to the page. Look at how many views this thread has as it is. ~Liz |
08-19-2004, 12:36 PM | #73 |
yeller
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Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13,824
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Casey, I agree with Liz..this is a pretty popular thread, and very imformative.
If you do write an article, I would love to be able to link it to 73-87.com as well...if that is cool with you. I am not a diesel fan or owner, but you did good man.
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08-19-2004, 09:46 PM | #74 |
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final help
Thanx so much, this has really been the most informative use I've ever put my internet connection too. I really appreciate it. Thanx again.
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Remember the fallen. 9-11-01 76 K5 4X4 custom roll cage/soft-top, turbo 400 & np 208 http://www.youtube.com/sp2fraggle http://www.oilfieldtrash.biz |
08-19-2004, 09:48 PM | #75 |
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right on
Casey, they are both very correct, this thread and your help have been invaluable in answering the questions others couldn't and books didn't cover every well.
Seth
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Remember the fallen. 9-11-01 76 K5 4X4 custom roll cage/soft-top, turbo 400 & np 208 http://www.youtube.com/sp2fraggle http://www.oilfieldtrash.biz |
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