Took my truck in to get cut up!

[Brad]

Over the last couple of weeks I've been doing some minor stuff which included taking a wire cup on my grinder to the bed floor. I got most of the rust off(I wonder if this was in a fire? - it was bad!) I went through 2 wire cups on this bed and I'm still not totally done. I still have to get the very back edge near the tailgate. Afterwards, I sprayed the store bought bedliner stuff and used 2 cans which also covered the wheel wells. This has worked great for me in the past, but I don't use the bed a whole lot and I keep a tonneau cover over it to keep the weather out.

Friday I should get my driveshaft back from the driveline shop and I'll install it. A couple days ago I worked on installing my blazer gas tank back in and making the fuel line fit. I also began cutting out my low hump and I'll be replacing it with another low hump trans cover for now until I can get a nice 5 speed down the road.

Also, I hooked up everything to the cab and tightened up my E-brake cable. Next I'll be reworking my clutch rod with heim joints and making it slightly longer so that I don't have to push all the way to the floor. I'll also be cleaning the cab out entirely and working on putting new chrome vents in the doors before they go back on.

I'll try to add more pics in a few days.

[Tx Firefighter]

Make sure you're using a twisted wire cup brush rather than a straight wire cup brush. They will last many times longer.

[Brad]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Make sure you're using a twisted wire cup brush rather than a straight wire cup brush. They will last many times longer.

Sure, NOW you tell me!

[BigSky71]

Nice job on the bed floor, I can see the hours and the elbow grease from here.

[1969owner]

it all looks good.

[Brad]

Here are some pics I took today. I made a longer clutch rod using heim joints and 3/8" round stock. That's the thickness of the original rod so I figured that was good enough. Weird thing about the original rod is that I can't find it anywhere. I wonder if I left it on the frame while towing it and it fell off at some point???
Took some pics of the interior that I'll be cleaning up. I'm also showing the progress on my transmission area. I'll be bolting on another low hump for now. Wanted to work on the gas tank some more, but it was raining and I had to go to work. I may be doing some more work to it this weekend.

[Brad]

Here are some shots of the entire interior and what I'm working with. Notice the transmission cover hole...

[71-longbed]

looks like you've been dodging the rain sucessfully !!! keep up the great progress and the pics ....

[Brad]

Today I tried working on installing the gas tank and where it used to bolt up to, a crossmember was hitting it so I moved the tank forward. Unfortunately, I discovered something I've never heard about on the board before. If you look carefully, you'll see that the filler tube hits one of the crossmembers. I had all the bed holes lined up with bolts going through the front 2 holes (4th pic) and I could not get the filler tube away from that crossmember. Why is it doing this? Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone ever encountered this before???

It's not that big of a deal because I've had a 73 Suburban gas tank in my shed for years now and I'll be using it instead. It's a bit bigger and will fit very nicely once I modify the filler tube to point the right way. I'm guessing it's about a 25 gallon tank???

I picked up my driveshaft today, but didn't have time to put it on. I can't go anywhere anyway until the gas tank issue is fixed.

[Palf70Step]

That's the problem with the Blazer tanks (in shortbeds). They all hit that crossmember on the shortbeds. On a wood bed truck it's easier to massage the brace(cut it away basically). Since your's is out you'll need, yours' should not be hard to do. Otherwise you'll need a a fuel cell or a custom tank to clear it. I'll be facing that issue on my fleet also. Not sure which whay I will work around the problem yet.

[Brad]

Thanks Bill, I had no idea this was an issue on SWB's. I guess that solidifies my choice in using the Suburban tank. It has a minor issue in that there's a dome on top and the sending unit hits the same crossmember, but I can work around it and I think it'll be much better anyway. I just need to have the inlet turned 90* towards the viewer and I'll be on my way!

[chevjayfsd]

I did the blazer tank on my swb, all you have to do is trim that crossmember to where the tank clears the member... Just use a cuttin wheel, and go at it. We made ours curve gradually... Works perfect!

Jason

[Frizzle Fry]

That tank you have pictured worked well in a short step I put it in. You'll just turn the fill tube to the side like you mentioned (I went through the floor). I did have to trim the frame cross member in front of the tank. Here it is:

[Brad]

Thanks Frizzle Fry, I'll go that route. Did you make those straps? Can you describe them?

[FormerMember]

Good info. I also have a Suburban tank I want to put in. Mine's from a 91 and it already has the filler to the left hand (driver's) side.

I have to replace the sending unit to get rid of the tbi pump, but that's not too tough. I also plan to use the Burb fuel door and filler.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Brad

Thanks Frizzle Fry, I'll go that route. Did you make those straps? Can you describe them?

I got them from Home Depot and just drilled holes where I wanted them. I think they may have been in the water heater section (it's been a while). Then I used the hard rubber/soft plastic stuff used for kick/base board around rooms, and cut to size as an insulator. That's from Home Depot as well. You just cut off the length you need at the store.

I actually used the sending unit from the original truck tank. I welded in the flange from the truck tank and bent the float arm and pick-up line as required. Worked like a champ Sorry, no pics of that.

[Brad]

SWEET- you just made my life much easier. It appears that the straps that I got from the Suburban at the same time are about 3" short. I wasn't sure what I was going to do. Now I know exactly what I'll do! It looks very tidy and professional. I hope to have my tank back next week and install it and I'll be able to move it around the yard under it's own power.

[KVN69GM]

hey brad, or anyone reading this, do u know the exact measurements for the conversion. where to cut and how much to cut? I have a 69 lwb truck that im converting to a swb. i want to know more about it. My friend knows a guy who has done it before so im not actually going to be doing any of the work . I know he knows how to do it, but i want to know what exactly needs to be done beforehand- just curious i guess. what's the best way to cut the frame and what about the bed mount that is closest to the cab??-does that come off ?? i know about shortening the drive line and brake cables and all that. Any info would be appreciated. i found a possible (i haven't seen it yet) clean fleetside shortbox for a 1,000. i know its hard w/o any pics but is that resonable. shortbeds are hard to come by these days!! that's my truck in my profile pic!!!

[Brad]

Hi Kevin and welcome to the board!
Here's a link to the page that should give a whole lotta info on the proper way to shorten a frame. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=123624
Some will argue that it should be done at an angle to prevent cracking, but hopefully they'll start another thread on that, lol.
I hope the article helps you out. Btw, cut 6" off the end of the frame not 8". You can always cut twice, but you can't...well yes you can, but you get the idea.

[Ron]

I had my 69 shortened a few years back by Charlie . Here's a shot. Still need to get it painted.

[shorty72]

heck that looks almost exactly like my truck

[KVN69GM]

Thanks brad that info was very usefull!!!!!!!

[Brad]

Well sorry to keep you all waiting. It felt like I hadn't accomplished much lately, but between work and weather, timing is everything!

Anyway, I've been focused on getting the gas tank installed and I'm very close to it being completed. I had to move the filler tube 90* to the left so that I could run the line near the bedside. I also had to cut an arch in one of the crossmembers since this tank has an arch where the sending unit sits. Because this tank is so big, I had to cut out 1" off the inside of the rear crossmember so the tank would fit.

I had a muffler shop bend up some 1-1/2" tubing for the fuel filler which cost me $15 in labor and mat'l-not bad especially since the previous shop quoted me $60! WTF??? I'm using the filler neck from the 73 Suburban that the tank is out of and I'm also using the neck-down portion of it as well. It's a pretty slick setup and I'm just praying that it works since the entire filler neck to the tank is at such a shallow angle. It might be slow, but as long as it works, I'll be happy. I'll probably test it out next week so wish me luck.

[Brad]

Another pic.
Btw, I'll be installing some sort of protective steel plate in front of the gas tank along with a hidden hitch and the chrome sport bumper. I should be pretty safe.

[Brad]

I also got the driveshaft installed. I got this from another board member for free several years ago along with the bed floor and the bed inner fenders. I just took out the old U-joints, cleaned it up and had new ones installed and balanced. The total was $60. I'm not sure it's the ideal length because the yolk sticks out about 1-1/2" from the transmission, but since there's another 3" or so inside the trans, I should be okay.