72 2wd Blazer: Project "Break Me"

[jkade]

Originally Posted by shifty

what is that dash up there out of, anyway?

That is a 63 or 64 ford fairlane dash.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by jkade

I hope to be low I am thinking about running a back seat like below and having a trunk behind to to put luggage, battery, tank, amps, etc. The seat back will set up against the notch cover and the bottoms will be out in front like the blazer from the sema thread.
Attachment 314322

I like it. Furbird seats should work nicely- they're surprisingly comfy too...

[jkade]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I like it. Furbird seats should work nicely- they're surprisingly comfy too...

I think it will look good, people won't be expecting to look in it and see the interior with the stock top. Should still have plenty of leg room also.

[jkade]

Well it's going to get c4 front suspension, picking up the 94 front parts tomorrow (pics this weekend). I was trying to work out a deal on the c4 dropmember that was going in the blazer that porter was building but I couldn't get a deal so I passed on that. Going to build a crossmember like a Art Morrison or a Jim Meyer out of some 2x4 tubing. It may not look as good as a dropmember but I won't have $3500 in my front suspension either. I think we can acheive the same results though.

[jkade]

Here are some pics of my c4 front suspension, I am waiting on No Limit to get back with me one of there c4 crossmembers before we start building one. I also have started welding and smoothing all the usless holes in the frame.

[Rokcrln]

Personaly I would spend the $1400 or so on a dropmember. It has be designed for these trucks and works great. I can also build my own and have built several other types for customers but my 2WD Blazer will be running one of Nate's for sure. Just my .02
So what are you doing for rear suspention to try and match the front handling?

Kevin
LFD inc.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Personaly I would spend the $1400 or so on a dropmember. It has be designed for these trucks and works great. I can also build my own and have built several other types for customers but my 2WD Blazer will be running one of Nate's for sure. Just my .02
So what are you doing for rear suspention to try and match the front handling?

Kevin
LFD inc.

If the dropmember was cheaper I would buy one but I am not going to spend that kind of money on one. I am keeping the trailing arms out back and doing a watts link and a sway bar.

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by jkade

If the dropmember was cheaper I would buy one but I am not going to spend that kind of money on one. I am keeping the trailing arms out back and doing a watts link and a sway bar.

How are you going to attach the watts link to the back of your 9"?

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

How are you going to attach the watts link to the back of your 9"?

Good question, I will burn that bridge when I get there.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Personaly I would spend the $1400 or so on a dropmember. It has be designed for these trucks and works great....
Kevin
LFD inc.

You and several other competent builders see the advantages of the R&D that Nathan has done.

jkade- Good luck with trying to save money. There are some places that it's just not wise to cut corners. This is one of them.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by jkade

Good question, I will burn that bridge when I get there.

One thought on the mounting for the watt's link... there are more advantages mounting the main pivot of the watts link to a crossmember that is fixed to the chassis, and the two end-links mounted to tabs/brackets on the axle tubes. Something to think about.

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

One thought on the mounting for the watt's link... there are more advantages mounting the main pivot of the watts link to a crossmember that is fixed to the chassis, and the two end-links mounted to tabs/brackets on the axle tubes. Something to think about.

!!!... o.k. ,you know, never thought of that.. Have yiu seen it done that way before? Or did you just think of it on your own. (good idea)

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

!!!... o.k. ,you know, never thought of that.. Have yiu seen it done that way before? Or did you just think of it on your own. (good idea)

Not my own idea... read about it in several suspension design books. Makes sense though!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by jkade

Not trying to sound like a smart ass but I am tired of people saying that I should spend my hard earned money on something I can't afford.
Thanks and I hope I have not offened anyone.

Sorry if I was pushing the DropMember it's just that you were talking about wanting one then it was a no limit set up. I did not know that you had friends that could help you build one. I would go that route as well but I am always that guy helping out his friends so it leaves very little time for my own stuff so I figure why re-invent the wheel. Plus Nates welds look way better than mine Make sure to show pics as you go along!

Kevin
LFD inc.

[smbrouss70]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

!!!... o.k. ,you know, never thought of that.. Have yiu seen it done that way before? Or did you just think of it on your own. (good idea)

Here's one on a nova on the pro-touring board.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Not my own idea... read about it in several suspension design books. Makes sense though!

I must be a bit slow on this one. Why is one way better then the other?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Sorry if I was pushing the DropMember it's just that you were talking about wanting one then it was a no limit set up. I did not know that you had friends that could help you build one. I would go that route as well but I am always that guy helping out his friends so it leaves very little time for my own stuff so I figure why re-invent the wheel. Plus Nates welds look way better than mine Make sure to show pics as you go along!

Kevin
LFD inc.

No I am not mad and I do change my mind a lot but I would like to have a dropmember and it would make it so simple. I can't spend the beans on that. I can make one, buy shock waves, and what I paid for my c4 stuff have about the same amount in mine as I would just the dropmember or it will be close. For the guys that can afford it go for it but I would have to save a couple of months to buy one and in that time I could ("we") build something.

[shifty]

Hey jk, I just want to say, I understand your pain. I also looked at it, and it was too rich for my blood as well. I have no doubt in my mind that it's worth the money, but it's just not reasonable for me, my budget, or my truck - especially with me having a welder on-hand and friends that are much better at plans, construction, engineering and welding than I am.

On one hand I want to say, "hell yeah! that's great people will pay that much for it!" because it's great for the manufacturer. But on the other hand, it hurts because people paying that much sets the price on it, and that price setting is too much for my wallet and the wallet of the majority of us that are mid-level builders (primary buyer segment, IMHO). A $200-300 drop in price would put it closer to the "richness" of my blood so I could possibly justify it. This seems to be the case with a LOT of aftermarket parts for our truck (I have the same issues with a lot of ECE's stuff, especially their steel gas tanks).

I don't complain because I respect the manufacturers. I think it's great they can get top dollar and even more than top dollar on their product. I admit that I do feel a bit slighted or frustrated sometimes over it. I'm not a Boyd Coddington or Chip Foose, so it's not just a drop in the bucket for me to fork out for one. I guess the product *IS* intended for the hardcore customizer, and not the hobbyist (I think most of us here are hobbyists working on our life sized models).

I really wish manufacturers would come out with a cost-effective and/or economy product line for the average joe, you know, the people who make up more than half of the buyer market?

I'm digging your buildup thread, keep up the good work!

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I must be a bit slow on this one. Why is one way better then the other?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

It has to do with the rear roll center. The roll center is located at the center of the watt's link's pivot. If it's attached to the rear diff, the roll center will migrate up and down as the rear dif. goes through its travel. It will be much more consistent if it's attached to the chassis.

Not to hijack... just have to throw in my feelings on the Dropmember's price, which has been addressed in this thread. I base the price on my cost and margin that I need to make to stay profitable. If I could afford to sell it for $1000 I would be more than happy to. I understand that it's not in everybody's budget.

[Rokcrln]

Ah I see said the slow kid from winters! So when attached to the body/frame the roll center will only move up or down as the body does. But when mounted to the diff it is all over the place with every bump and pot hole you hit. For us Cali boys that is alot of movement
Cool I have learned somthing for the day and now I can go back to bed and try again in the morning

Kevin
LFD inc.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by shifty

Hey jk, I just want to say, I understand your pain. I also looked at it, and it was too rich for my blood as well. I have no doubt in my mind that it's worth the money, but it's just not reasonable for me, my budget, or my truck - especially with me having a welder on-hand and friends that are much better at plans, construction, engineering and welding than I am.

On one hand I want to say, "hell yeah! that's great people will pay that much for it!" because it's great for the manufacturer. But on the other hand, it hurts because people paying that much sets the price on it, and that price setting is too much for my wallet and the wallet of the majority of us that are mid-level builders (primary buyer segment, IMHO). A $200-300 drop in price would put it closer to the "richness" of my blood so I could possibly justify it. This seems to be the case with a LOT of aftermarket parts for our truck (I have the same issues with a lot of ECE's stuff, especially their steel gas tanks).

I don't complain because I respect the manufacturers. I think it's great they can get top dollar and even more than top dollar on their product. I admit that I do feel a bit slighted or frustrated sometimes over it. I'm not a Boyd Coddington or Chip Foose, so it's not just a drop in the bucket for me to fork out for one. I guess the product *IS* intended for the hardcore customizer, and not the hobbyist (I think most of us here are hobbyists working on our life sized models).

I really wish manufacturers would come out with a cost-effective and/or economy product line for the average joe, you know, the people who make up more than half of the buyer market?

I'm digging your buildup thread, keep up the good work!

I could budget and buy one but what that thing cost is a set of grey spoke 20's the way I look at it. Buying one would throw my project off about three or four months saving money for one. I know you guys may not like the no limit front kit but they are not out of the ball game yet, I am trying to work a deal out with them and to me it is no bid deal if it doesn't bolt in since it souldn't have to come back out anyways.

[jkade]

[QUOTE=porterbuilt;2456378]It has to do with the rear roll center. The roll center is located at the center of the watt's link's pivot. If it's attached to the rear diff, the roll center will migrate up and down as the rear dif. goes through its travel. It will be much more consistent if it's attached to the chassis.

]

That is some helpful knowledge.

[jkade]

I have been "playing" with photoshop, this is crappy and I am not sure if I like it but is the direction I am going.

[Rokcrln]

Works for me! How would it look with a red windshield frame?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jkade]

I may like this look better.