How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer...

[SactoJim]

Takes a brave soul to chop up a cherry blazer like that, but it looks like you are doing a helluva nice job!......nice fab work.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by babyblueoval

Gringo,

You wanna take a short 2 1/2 hr drive over here to Little Rock and help me lay out mine?

Nice work.

Originally Posted by jkade

I need some help on mine this weekend also.

Then who would be here to do mine?

Originally Posted by SactoJim

Takes a brave soul to chop up a cherry blazer like that, but it looks like you are doing a helluva nice job!......nice fab work.

I wouldn't even have thought of doing something like this without being corrupted by this forum

[gringoloco]

Since the rear seat will be attached directly to the floor, and I have lost some of the rigidity by removing a large portion of it, I decided that I would mount the notch cover directly to the notches. To do this, I drilled a couple of holes in line with the recesses in the floor and welded nuts inside the top plate of the notch. I will use grade 8 hardware and rubber mounting pads from a truck bed for a little NVH isolation. I didn't get far before the shop foreman stepped in and shut me down...

[Spray-Bomb]

Good idea

Well your "foreman" is a good reason to stop... lol

[gringoloco]

After the warden went to bed, I made a little more progress. First, I drilled some holes large enough to pass the taillight/fuel sender harness through so they can route inside the notch. These also make good access holes for spraying corrosion preventive goo inside the notches.

You can see in the next pic that I made braces to keep the outer plates from bowing inwards when I did the final pass. Then finished up welding the plates on the inside and fitted the top cap.

Next step- Cut the frame I still need the burn the bottom cap in, then I get to do it all over again on the passenger side...

[Iron-Butt]

great progress.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by ironbutt_lcmc

great progress.

Thanks. I'm chuggin' along... Got the bottom cap welded in and slapped on a coat of Rust Encapsulator. Looks like Ill have to trim the panhard bracket a little.

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Then who would be here to do mine?

Well by the looks of the progress you're making, you'll be done with yours before I ever get started.

[jkade]

Originally Posted by jkade

I need some help on mine this weekend also.

Well I got mine welded in without your help I also figured out that I could still use my rear trailing arms with a 3" block to use all but 1/2" of my notch. I guess I am going ahead with the nascar truck arms instead of the 4 link.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by babyblueoval

Well by the looks of the progress you're making, you'll be done with yours before I ever get started.

What's the hold-up?

Originally Posted by jkade

Well I got mine welded in without your help I also figured out that I could still use my rear trailing arms with a 3" block to use all but 1/2" of my notch. I guess I am going ahead with the nascar truck arms instead of the 4 link.

Sweet. That will make things much easier. Pics?

Lil' more progress- mostly just an excuse to post some needless pics . I used the old captured nut trick to install the 'button' bumpstops. They are slightly forward of the notch centerline 'cause that's where the axle will rest when dumped. I also got the panhard bracket trimmed and installed the other side's bumpstop.

[babyblueoval]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

What's the hold-up?

Well, it's mostly scheduling getting with my friend where my truck is about an hour away. I don't have the room or tools to do it and he's done it many times and has the tools.
I'm also having trouble getting my Vette parts. I'm disputing a charge on my cc right now because I've only received a few of the parts.

Once it finally gets started it should go fairly quickly I just need the front suspension so we can get the front together to make it a roller.
THEN the pictures will start flying.

[jkade]

[QUOTE=gringoloco;2444238]What's the hold-up?

Sweet. That will make things much easier. Pics?

I will post up tomorrow, I always leave my camera cord @ work. And yes it will be much easier and cheaper. I know it will lay out with a 275/35/20 or I am fairly sure it will.

[jlaird]

where did you get the bumpstops?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by jlaird

where did you get the bumpstops?

They are a Prothane piece. Part# 19-1316. They are 11/16" thick. I think I will order a set of the 19-1319s- they are 3/8" thick- every little bit counts...

[Spray-Bomb]

Sweet !!!

I wanna see those after pics bad now !!!!

[grnddwn]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Since the rear seat will be attached directly to the floor, and I have lost some of the rigidity by removing a large portion of it,

I build a whole new frame for my floor and mounted the seat to it. I found that the floor still flexed a little too much even with notch cover. I didn't think of attaching it to the frame though, and minewas in being bodydropped 2" anyway.
Truck looks sweet.

[BACKYARD88]

Looking good man! Can't wait to see some more

[Frizzle Fry]

I have a suggestion for you:

When you bolt your notch cover to the notch like that the bolt will transfer the noise/vibration even if you have a pad/bushing in between.

I have some of these I am going to try out for the notch cover (form b).

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I have a suggestion for you:

When you bolt your notch cover to the notch like that the bolt will transfer the noise/vibration even if you have a pad/bushing in between.

I have some of these I am going to try out for the notch cover (form b).

I like the look of those, but don't have the room for them I'll never sit back there anyway...

[XXL]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I like the look of those, but don't have the room for them I'll never sit back there anyway...

Why are you bolting on the notch cover? Seems like a nice zip around it with the welder would be fine. You didn't have access from the top before, so not sure if there's any value to having top access now.

[abadsvt]

Looks good Gingo! About time you get blazer in the weeds!!! Keep up the work.

Josh

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by XXL

Why are you bolting on the notch cover? Seems like a nice zip around it with the welder would be fine. You didn't have access from the top before, so not sure if there's any value to having top access now.

I don't necessarily need to have access, although it will be accessible if need be in the future(though I can't imagine why I'd need to.) Since the seats I'm using have integrated belts, I'd like to regain some of the stability/rigidity lost when cutting the floor. In short- peace of mind.

Originally Posted by abadsvt

Looks good Gingo! About time you get blazer in the weeds!!! Keep up the work.

Josh

Thanks. Funny- I was just looking back on your build last night- looks good! When you gonna build a frame for my truck?

[Frizzle Fry]

Whatever you do, I think you should avoid a solid mount anywhere between the frame and body. Just my $.02

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Whatever you do, I think you should avoid a solid mount anywhere between the frame and body. Just my $.02

The plan goes something like this: The bolt will go through a fender washer, rubber pad, floor, another rubber pad and into the frame. Not as optimal as say, building a body mount off the side of the notch, but metal-to-metal will be isolated. I like those bushings you are using, but I think they would pull through if they ever got yanked on hard enough. What do you think of this design? Thanks for the input. You know I value your opinion.

[Frizzle Fry]

Ya, since you are mounting a seat to it your plan is good. Be sure that bolt hole is big enough that the bolt will never touch the body. Like you said, you could do a body mount off to the side of the notch, but may not be necessary. In blazers and burbs I worry about this more than I would a truck.