71 Chev SWB

[mcbassin]

Yo! that drivetrain looks great! I didn't realize you were going LS? It's gonna be nice!

[awhite4557]

I ordered the LS1 tubular motor mount kit and a new tubular crossmember kit from CPP. They are supposed to be here 12-30-10. As soon as they arrive, I will start on this project. Today I cleaned the firewall/frame of the 65 so that I can put the 350/350 that is currently in the 71 back into the 65. I also removed the EGR valve/tube from the 5.3. I ordered an EGR block-off GM part # 12558346 from the Chevy dealer to block the intake hole. I will build a block-off for the exhaust manufold after I check to make sure I will be able to use the truck manifolds. The harness was received by Speartech, they should get it re-done soon and sent back.

[awhite4557]

Here are the mounts I ordered from CPP. I plan on using the factory fuel tank with a Walbro 255 in-line pump. I haven't decided what filters to use yet. The factory metal fuel lines are still attached to the 5.3 and they exit near the rear of the transmission under the drivers seat. I am going to try to keep the lines and just go back to the tank from there. This 5.3 has the regulator in the fuel rail so I won't need the corvette regulator. I located a fuel sender unit on Early Classic Enterprises website part # 11-729300A for a 72 chevy PU that has a return line plumbed into the unit. The only drawback is the slip on line connections. Here are the photos.

[RCbowtie69]

looking good

[mcbassin]

Great looking parts, How much those engine stands set you back?

[67chevy1series]

wow great project

[awhite4557]

mcbassin, the engine stands were $229.00 plus tax with the polyplus motor mounts. I also ordered a tubular cross member and the total was $354.20 with tax. I hope I can use the crossmember, if not, I will use it in the 65. I got the EGR block-off today and the total cost for it was $27.29 with tax.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by awhite4557

mcbassin, the engine stands were $229.00 plus tax with the polyplus motor mounts. I also ordered a tubular cross member and the total was $354.20 with tax. I hope I can use the crossmember, if not, I will use it in the 65. I got the EGR block-off today and the total cost for it was $27.29 with tax.

Thanks for the info. They look great, and look like they would make for a really clean install. I wonder if I could fabricate some like that. My budget won't allow for them right now.

[awhite4557]

Today I installed the EGR block-off in the 5.3, painted a little on the frame and firewall of the 65 to get it ready for the engine swap and took the hood off of the 71. The motor mounts are supposed to be delivered tomorrow. Once I get the 350/350 back in the 65, I will start installing the 5.3 in the 71.

[awhite4557]

I got a little more done today. I pulled the 350/350 out of the 71 and put it back into the 65. I put the new CPP crossmember in the 65 as the previous owner really hacked the factory crossmember up. I got the CPP motor mount perches installed in the 71 and got the adapters installed on the 5.3. Tomorrow, I am going to test fit the 5.3 into the 71. It looks like I may get lucky with the power steering hoses. When I installed the serpentine set-up when I first bought the PU, I used the power steering pump from the 95 Chev that came with the set-up. I used a power steering box from an 85 Chev PU and bought the high preasure power steering hose for the 85 PU and it has the late model O-ring which bolted up to the 95 Chev PU pump. It looks like the hose may bolt up to the 01 pump on the 5.3 without any adapters. I'll let ya'll know if it does.

[awhite4557]

I've got a lot done since the last post. I installed the engine with the CPP tubular mounts in the front (forward) set of holes. I installed the engine and it would not set down into the motormounts all the way because the oil pan was hitting the crossmember. I pulled the motor back out and moved the CPP motormounts back to the rear holes. The top holes bolted up to the top frame rail but there was no hole in the bottom crossmember for the bottom bolt to mount. I drilled the hole it needed and mounted the motor mounts where the factory mounts had been.

[awhite4557]

I then re-installed the motor and transmission and it fit perfect. The motor mounts bolted right up and the oil pan had a lot of clearance. The factory transmission crossmember bolted back up in the factory holes. I replaced the rear transmission mount that was on the 01 GMC Suburban with a new two bolt mount that the 71 uses and the mount also bolted right up to the factory holes in the transmission crossmember. The driveline even fit perfect with no modifications needed. The power steering hose I had on the serpentine set-up I had previously installed also bolted right up.

[awhite4557]

more photos

[19seventeeCustom]

great project,

thanks for the pics!! keep em coming

[awhite4557]

I have made a little more progress this week. I have the fuel system about half way installed. I still have to do the return line but I am waiting on a fuel sender that I ordered from Brothers for a 72 Chev PU that has the second line (emissions) on the sender unit that I am going to use for the return.

I ordered Sanderson Headers and they are supposed to be here in about the middle of this coming week. I also received a call from Speartech and the harness/computer are done and they should also be here by about Wednesday.

Once I get everything in, I will post photos and parts lists. I am trying to decide what to do about the radiator hoses, the 5.3 hoses from the donor vehicle (2001 GMC Suburban) are too small for my radiator connections. I may order adapters from jagsthatrun.com to connect the hoses from both vehicles together.

[awhite4557]

I received my harness from Speartech, the headers from Sanderson and the fuel sender from Brothers today. I got the harness pretty much installed on the engine and transmission. I am going to find a mount for the ECM before I try running the wires to the interior for the speedometer, etc, mount the TAC module and fuses.

I tried to install the headers and the drivers side fit but the passengers side hit the motor mount perches. I am going to have to figure out which way to go to fix the problem, change the headers or the motor mounts.

Here's photos of what I've done so far. I have the transmission lines hooked up with metal lines but they crowd the A/C pulley and will make it difficult to remove the A/C belt. I am going to go ahead and order the parts from Summit to change the transmission lines out to braided hose like the fuel lines.

[67chevy1series]

wow!

[awhite4557]

I worked on the gas pedal tonight. I used the metal base for the factory pedal on the 71 and welded it to the back of the suburban pedal for added support. Then I drilled through the mounting holes on the 71 metal plate through the back of the mounting plate on the suburban pedal so that the holes lined up. I cut all of the pedal arm off of the suburban except for a few inches I would need to mount the 71 pedal arm to it. I then cut the 71 pedal arm and bent it to where it would be in the same position on the suburban base as it was on the 71 base and welded it to the short piece of arm on the suburban pedal. It worked perfect. The pedal bolted up to the factory holes on the 71. I mounted the pedal but the bolts are crowded in the base and are going to be hard to get a wrench on to tighten. I am going to go get some 1/4 allen head bolts tomorrow and fix that issue. Here are the photos for tonight.

[awhite4557]

I got a little more done tonight on the wiring. I went to Pete's Auto and got a mounting bracket for the ECM. I cut the mounting tabs and lower portion of the bracket off and made a new mounting bracket out of angle iron. I got the fuse box mounted under the hood and ran a few wires inside. Here's some photos.

[awhite4557]

I decided to rebuild the passenger side CPP motor mount so that I could use it. I cut the top mounting plate off and welded another metal plate to the tubes so that the top mounting plate would be parallel with the top of the frame rail so the header would fit. I ordered part #12055 transmission adapter fittings for the transmission from PURE Choice Motorsports and made up 6 an stainless transmission cooler lines using the adapter fittings and 6an fittings at the radiator. I used the short lead pipes from the factory exhaust and mounted the O2 sensors and after hooking the remaining wires up to the Dakota instrument controls, started the engine up. The motor fired right up and ran smooth, thanks to Speartech for doing such a great job on the electronics. I still haven't finished the fuel system completely yet, the factory tank is in the shop being cleaned and having a 3/8 bung welded in for the return line. As soon as I get it back, get the LOKAR shifter linkage I ordered, I will take final photos of the install and include a complete list of parts used when I can. Here are some photos.

[CheyenneShop]

Your a STUD!

[67shortie]

Fantastic, I love it

[awhite4557]

My LOKAR shifter didn't come in and I have a 7:30 am appointment to get the mufflers put on in the morning. So, I modified the factory shifter linkage to work temporarilly. I test drove it around the block and man what a difference. I will post the final pics when I get a chance this weekend to sort everything out.

[mcbassin]

You are moving so fast on the engine install its hard to keep up with. It seems like you really did your homework and had every lined out. I was wondering why you had to modify the Cpp engine mount? I thought they were plug and play mounts? Thanks for sharing the pics! Wow!

[usmcchevy]

Lookin' great! Subscribing.