'78 3/4 ton 4x4 FRANKENTRUCK

[MylilBowTie]

I think those are 20 gallon tanks. Looks like good progress.

[nutchevy]

those are twenty gals,same as on my truck. looking good,lot cheaper than getting a new truck,

[asphaltburner]

Yo! That's what I thought, but the guy at the Chevy dealership, in parts, said the 3/4 ton trucks came with 25 gallon tanks. I thought GM produced 16 and 20 gallon tanks for their trucks.
Stupid of me to take the word of ANYONE anymore,...There's no REAL mechanics anymore, parts suppliers are geared toward people who want to change an oil filter now and then, and even the people that should know mechanics are full of BS! The only source of truthful information is on the forums!! Sure makes proper mechanics a struggle, sorting out the crap! Thanks, Todd.

[asphaltburner]

So,...new radiator, temp sender, and water pump installed last eve after my post. Began rear chrome bumper installation today after work, but had to grind some piss-poor welding flat, and paint the frame prior to installation. First thing tomorrow I'll finish it. I'll also finish torque converter installation, lower cover, and install the new starter. Then, the new alternator installation, and oil pressure sender installation just under it.
Planning on towing 20 miles to, and from, Ken's Mufflers in Ft Collins for exhaust. They're the best. And Northern Colorado Driveline for the custom driveshafts after that. But I can just give them requirements and measurements,...still gotta make final decisions about location of fuel switching valve and pump. If I get time to purchase fuel hoses tomorrow, I'll get those 20 gal tanks installed. Busy weekend, like usual! Todd.

[asphaltburner]

Here's a pretty significant improvement:

Chased a wild goose electrical "problem" and found my fuel sender line today after installing the bumper brackets and chrome bumper. Traced out the under dash electrical to my satisfaction too. Back to work! Todd.

[Geno H]

Always enjoy reading your progress. Thanks for the updates.


Geno H

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Geno H!
Thanks,...I also hope anyone who wonders will ask about what I installed and how I did it! That's what I'm here for. We should be building on the knowledge base, not re-building it. This would be the best possible build for a '78 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 and I hope it's of intrest to a few of the members out there. Thanks again,...and keep checking up on my FRANKENTRUCK build. I'll try to post on a regular basis. Todd.

[Walts_restoration]

me likey shiney object. lol

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Me likey berry much too! Me likey me FRANKENTRUCK berry, berry much! It comey out berry goo,...keep worky berry hard! wetminkey, LOL!!
Seriously, thank you! This is to be a keeper, and it's rapidly becoming one of my favorites!
As I said before, like a dad talking about his kids,...Todd.

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Spent $125 on hoses and other necessary items today! Radiator hookups and fuel hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, and multiple sizes of hose clamps. Assembled fuel tanks with hoses, filler spouts and vent tubes, trial fitted the new alternator and power steering pump, as well as the front fitted oil pressure sender. All seems good, although I'm a little concerned with the alt. pulley/crankshaft pulley alignment,...installing, and tensioning, a belt may align the two more accurately.
Fuel tanks are ready to install,...I'll have to cut a new filler spout opening on the driver's side since the factory-style tank spout will not lineup with the old POS aftermarket tank filler opening.
Door panels are ready for re-installation, and I'm ready to install the dash, just gotta dig through my "countersunk screw" bucket for matching hardware. Nervous about installing the seat,...in case my electrical is a disaster (evidence of engine fire was easy to see in the old wiring!) and I'd like to see where my twin sticks for the NP205 are going to reside,...looks perfect, but only installation will tell!
I've troubleshot fuel tank switching valve and e-pump locations "ad nauseum" and I think I'm ready to start their installations.
Oil in the 350 V8 and prelube should be next,...scared to hookup the battery and turn the key! Todd.

[asphaltburner]

Yo!
Had to torque the bolts a bit to line the mounting straps up properly, but both 20 gallon fuel tanks are installed, bolts tight. And only bashed my left thumb once, but I think the nail will stay,...
Looks like an octopus underneath, with all those hoses and wires hanging down! Two fuel feeds, two return lines, two vent hoses, two ground wires and two sender leads! Switching valve next, the hard lines and the e-pump. Cut the new filler opening to accomidate the factory acc. tank (old aftermarket filler opening was too far forward).
The damaged hood,...it came from Classic Industries that way, they accepted my proof, and gave me a FULL refund,...can't say enough good stuff about their final decision. They looked at my pics and came to the same conclusion,...there is good left in the world. I sure expected to be told I was wrong, and would get no compensation,...I inspected outer packaging, but not the hood itself (as instructed!). New one comes Thursday, and it'll get unpacked in the drive,...then installed. The first one was to be stored (in it's inner packaging for a month,...that's how I got into trouble!).
Getting awful close to that turning of the key,...makes me nervous. This truck has been partially disassembled in the four years it sat,...had some melted wires, evidencing a short-lived engine fire or short,...and the previous owner told me "nothing was wrong with it" when he parked it,..HA! Hope it doesn't fry when I turn the key to ON. I'll have minimal stuff hooked up when I do, and we'll not go to START until I'm satisfied! Oh well, it was free! Todd.

[asphaltburner]

Yo! New steel hood delivered and installed today,...need outdoor lighting to get good pics. Tomorrow.
Prelubed, torqued oil pan and rocker cover bolts, and destroyed the damaged hood per Classic Industries requirements today. Here's my '42 John Deere B parked on top of it,...daily driver '76 Camaro that I built in the background:

Time to finish attaching the torque converter, lower bell housing, and torque struts times three (two from the engine mounts to the torque converter cover and one from the transfer case to the back of the block). That will lead me into starter installation and finishing the electrical connections. Then it's time to turn that key one click,...to ON. Yipes!! Todd.

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Y'all!
First of all, here's that new steel hood, installed and aligned. Came out great! Needs green paint,...

As I assembled it all, ran across a qustion in my own mind,...how to properly attach that long torque rod from the NP203,...BBZZZTT, wrong! The NP205 attaches to the frame via a mount (that was still in the flatbed).
Here's the two side by side,...NP203 rod on the left, the NP205 frame mount on the right:

My question to ALL of you is how could the crappy NP203 have a torque ROD (side of the NP203 to the rear of the block), and the NP205 require a true frame mount (from it's side to the frame with rubber bushings, etc,...) to deal with it's positional torque?!! I'll be running a high torque and HP 350V8, and TH400, so I KNOW I'll need to drill the frame and install the frame mount for the NP205, but how did GM get away with this flimsy torque rod for the NP203? Todd.

[Prong]

You lack the second support rod. The other one is about 1/2 that length and it runs from the T/C to a bolt on the driver's side flywheel cover (IIRC).

[asphaltburner]

Thanks, Prong. Wow,...how weird! The truck had this one (side of the NP203 to the passenger's rear of the block, and a pair of shorter ones that bolt to the lower part of the torque converter cover and to the engine mounts, but that's it.
Even with that second rod, what keeps the transfer case from torquing rotationally?
I can sure see how the single mount, attached to the frame keeps the Tcase solidly positioned! Todd.

[Prong]

From my understanding, those rods are to help support the tranny because of the length between the rear mount and the block. I've heard reports and talked to one guy that had it happen to him where the tranny case will crack without those supports because the tranny case is basically unsupported because of the way it mounts to the t/c case (hope that makes sense).

P.S. My 79 has only 2 rods, IIRC. A long one like yours in the pic, and a second shorter one. If you want, I can try to get a pic of it tomorrow for you.

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Prong!
Sure would like to a pic, if you would be so kind! I assumed the rods were to counteract against rotational torque of the Tcase, but perhaps not.
I've nearly completed installation of the NP205 side mount that I pulled from the donor flatbed. It will accomplish both tasks, and was designed to accompany the NP205 in the first place (FRANKENTRUCK had the NP203 and rod). I will, of course, use the two short rods that FRANKENTRUCK came with, tieing the heavy aluminum torque converter cover to the engine mounts. They were with the TH400 when I got the truck.
Rearranged the tubing running down the passenger's frameraill,...pulled out the fuel feed line, lowered the return line, and reattached the brakeline where it was. My 6 port fuel switching valve will live in a steel "shelter" attached to the underside of the truck bed, near the front. The e-pump will reside in a similar "shelter" just behind the emergency brake cable entrance through the frame,...nearly under the driver's seat:

Fuel feed will run forward from there, along the inner framerail, and up (in front of the engine) to the pressure regulator and the Holley. I hope to stay as far away from the headers and exhaust as possible that way, and keep it all protected from road debris. Hoses from the fuel tanks to the valve, short hose to the hardline that will feed the e-pump, and hard line nearly to the regulator, then hose. I'll use hose to reach the existing return line and back to hose to get to the valve. Vent lines from each tank will simply be hose to a charcoal cannister that I'll mount driver's side next to the radiator. Todd.

[Prong]

Upon closer inspection, it looks like I'm missing a rod myself (One of the short ones on the passenger side). I will have to keep an eye out for a replacement Anywho, the passenger side long one didn't photo too well because of the pesky header and driveshaft in the way, but I'll show you what I have. My setup is a TH350/NP203 for reference. As far as the case's inclination to torque over it has 2 pretty stout mounts that go to that crossmember. I have a pretty stout 383 that would find the weakpoint in this design pretty quickly. I've had this truck for over 9 years and it's held up pretty well so far (knock on wood).

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Prong! Thanks for the pics!
Here's my newly installed NP205 framemount,...took the whole weekend to discover the need, remove from the flatbed, drill the '78's frame, and install after some minor modification. FRANKENTRUCK was never supposed to have an NP205:

The short rod you've pictured is identical to my pair,...torque converter cover to engine mount rods, one each side.
FRANKENTRUCK is a '78 3/4 ton 4x4 with a 350HP 350V8 that I built, TH400/NP205 twin stick. It has a Dana 44 front axle with Warn locking hubs, and a 5560 lb rated rear axle, both from my donor flatbed. Nearing completion.
What year, and tonnage, is your truck? Todd.

[asphaltburner]

With everything torquing clockwise, does this mount rotate up, and away from the frame with torque? Guess I'm asking, does the driveline mass rotate counterclockwise with torque as you look at the pic? Todd.

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Metal boxes for my switching valve and e-pump finished and painted, hardline here, adapters on order, and 12V relay for the fuel pump coming,...plan for the fuel system hardened, and being implemented.
Installed restored inner door panels today in addition.
Coming out as I had planned,...magnificent! Much more going on, but this is the major stuff,...Pics as soon as the paint is cured and I get the pump and valve installed.
BTW, checked out the Camaro and found that, due to rotation, the Tcase mount will be lifted away from the frame,...up, with acceleration. Todd.

[asphaltburner]

Yo! Y'all!
Lots of little stuff done today,...tranny cooling lines cleaned and hooked up,...finished electric fuel pump box and installed it and the pump with adapters,...finished fuel tank switching valve box and installed it and the valve:

Valve is upper right, and pump lower left, in their steel boxes. Still have to secure hoses and attach the hard lines to either side of the pump.
Fort Collins Muffler feels that they can install 2.5" pipe throughout the exhaust system, and I'll provide Summit's "H" pipe and turbo mufflers.
Gotta measure and get Northern Colorado Driveline started on driveshafts and yokes. Todd.

[asphaltburner]

Small stuff keepin' me busy! Fuel plumbing is complete, with a whole new engineered and installed electric system. Engine assembly is complete, and nothing fried when I hooked up the battery, or when I turned the key to the "on" position. Measuring driveshafts today, I'll check my old ones, but probably be ordering on Monday. I'll be going to 32 spline yokes anyway, and I doubt that they are compatable with my old stuff.
Gonna have to hit the junkyard again for steering column horn hardware,...and have been replacing alot of burned bulbs,...more evidence of the fire/short that occured at some point,...but I must've fixed the source. Just need to troubleshoot the inoperative brake lights. Driveshafts and exhaust and I start this puppy!! Todd.

[joe231]

Good looking build, keep up the good work!
got a few questions for you....where did you get the switching valve?
and my stock valve on my '80 only has one wire, your appears to have several, what are the extra wires for, and did it come with directions?
thanks

[spudz]

I been following this build....I like it.... its a mans truck.....