Bent Custom and Performance Back-half

[N2TRUX]

I am not a big fan of Watt's links as I like things uncluttered. That is the cleanest application I have seen.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bentfab

If that be the question. It's 2 1/8 inches from the top of the rail to the axle center line at ride height. The axle sits just about center of the frame rail looking at it from the side.

I was curious about the comparison of this measurement vs. a stock frame rail. I understand you're saying that @ ride-height, the axle tube C/L sits "just about the center of the frame rail" @ ride height but I'm trying to figure out how much higher that is vs the factory rails.

To re-phrase the question . .... How much more drop does this allow vs. a stock frame w/a 3" c-notch?

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by joe231

WOW
you have impressed Nate!!
good job!

This is quality work... it should impress everybody.

[bentfab]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I was curious about the comparison of this measurement vs. a stock frame rail. I understand you're saying that @ ride-height, the axle tube C/L sits "just about the center of the frame rail" @ ride height but I'm trying to figure out how much higher that is vs the factory rails.

To re-phrase the question . .... How much more drop does this allow vs. a stock frame w/a 3" c-notch?

Look at the pics. The part where the rail is flat in front of the c-notch is the same height as a stock rail where you would instal your c-notch over the axle. My axle tubes are 3 inch and the measurement I gave earlier will indicate where everything sits. I hope this helps.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bentfab

Look at the pics. The part where the rail is flat in front of the c-notch is the same height as a stock rail where you would instal your c-notch over the axle. My axle tubes are 3 inch and the measurement I gave earlier will indicate where everything sits. I hope this helps.

That's just it.... looking @ the pic can be deceptive because of the angle. So it sounds like you place the new rails roughly in the same placement as the factory rail where it's 'kicked-up' then you did the 'U' bend vs. the c-notch in the stock rail. So 2 1/8" is gained over a stock frame w/a bolt-in style c-notch.

[bentfab]

Actualy I think it's more. The 2 1/8 is where it is now. The stock trailing arms sit up higher the way my set up is. In a stock set up the rearend is actualy below the frame rails. So I think it is a lot lower than 2 1/8.

[jgrisafi]

Question? What tool did you use to punch the holes in the trailing arms?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bentfab

Actualy I think it's more. The 2 1/8 is where it is now. The stock trailing arms sit up higher the way my set up is. In a stock set up the rearend is actualy below the frame rails. So I think it is a lot lower than 2 1/8.

Is the rear section 3x4"?

[bentfab]

Originally Posted by jgrisafi

Question? What tool did you use to punch the holes in the trailing arms?

Punch flares from Mitler Bros.

[bentfab]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Is the rear section 3x4"?

2 1/4 by 4 1/4

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bentfab

2 1/4 by 4 1/4

[4cefed]

what grit finish are you doing on the steel in these pics and what tools and steps are u taking to achieve this? i always loved how rad rides did this and was wondering how to do this economically so customers get that wow factor when they see their stuff in my shop

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 4cefed

what grit finish are you doing on the steel in these pics and what tools and steps are u taking to achieve this? i always loved how rad rides did this and was wondering how to do this economically so customers get that wow factor when they see their stuff in my shop

Looks like 36 grit grinder > 80 grit DA.

[bentfab]

Originally Posted by 4cefed

what grit finish are you doing on the steel in these pics and what tools and steps are u taking to achieve this? i always loved how rad rides did this and was wondering how to do this economically so customers get that wow factor when they see their stuff in my shop

Well if you want to know the truth. You need to use the right material to start with. Fit and finish is also the key. Planning and laying things out so that your final weld and grind is very minimal is also a factor. That way by the time your ready to make the metal look like it does is just a matter of wiping it down and doing a little D.A. w/ 120 or 80 grit to get that final look. If you take your time you never have to harm the surrounding metal except where it's cut and welded.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by bentfab

Well if you want to know the truth. You need to use the right material to start with. Fit and finish is also the key. Planning and laying things out so that your final weld and grind is very minimal is also a factor. That way by the time your ready to make the metal look like it does is just a matter of wiping it down and doing a little D.A. w/ 120 or 80 grit to get that final look. If you take your time you never have to harm the surrounding metal except where it's cut and welded.

Mark,

I know in an earlier post you said the frame is cut from flat sheet then welded together. What type of steel sheet did you use? Hot Rolled Pickled & Oiled or Cold Rolled sheet?

Can't wait to see more progress..!

[bentfab]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Mark,

I know in an earlier post you said the frame is cut from flat sheet then welded together. What type of steel sheet did you use? Hot Rolled Pickled & Oiled or Cold Rolled sheet?

Can't wait to see more progress..!

Unfortunately the water jetter used hot rolled. Wasn't to happy. It should be cold sheet 1010 or 1020. Welds and grinds really nice. Just better quality all around.

[bentfab]

Buy the way we will be starting on the front half very soon. She's getting a heart transplant also. 5.3 and 4l60 conversion. This truck my friends will be SICK!!! Stay tuned.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by bentfab

Buy the way we will be starting on the front half very soon. She's getting a heart transplant also. 5.3 and 4l60 conversion. This truck my friends will be SICK!!! Stay tuned.

Using a 5.3 seams dismal compared to the work going on out back. As always, beautiful work. How many hours are we looking at?

[bentfab]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

Using a 5.3 seams dismal compared to the work going on out back. As always, beautiful work. How many hours are we looking at?

Thanks Mike. As for the motor it's all about form and function. There's probably about 150 to 175 hrs. write know.

[AceX]

The 5.3 can be a stout motor. A few extra goodies, maybe even a maggie, and you've got yourself a very respectable motor.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by AceX

The 5.3 can be a stout motor. A few extra goodies, maybe even a maggie, and you've got yourself a very respectable motor.

Kinda like this..........
.
.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by AceX

The 5.3 can be a stout motor. A few extra goodies, maybe even a maggie, and you've got yourself a very respectable motor.

Not questioning the motor itself, but the choice in a high end project. Money doe not seem to be an issue

[AceX]

"Impression" that won the Riddler Award back in 2005 had a very tame 340hp LS1. Many "high end" builds use very common and lower hp motors for a variety of reasons. Big cams and blower whine aren't everyone's thing. Some guys want a reliable car/truck that they can drive to shows and have a little fun with, but not have to hassle with a lengthy and expensive motor build that at the same time is completely unnecessary.

Now, they haven't touched on anything being done to this motor, but I'm more than willing to bet that it isn't just some crate motor. It will have some bolt on goodies at the very least.

Personally, I love factory/crate motors. Some of the best and most reliable out there, that's why I chose one for my truck. 400+ factory rated engineered horsepower and matching torque in a smog legal, completely reliable, package. You really can't ask for much better for the money.

[joe231]

ummm........what is a maggie???

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by joe231

ummm........what is a maggie???

Magnusen (sp?) Supercharger