383 or 5.3?????????

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

yeah, I took it to the machine shop, the machinist I'm dealing with tells me to take it to him and he'll look at it, last time I took it to him, I took it apart and he machined it and put it back together.

the reason I took it to him again is because he said he'd give me a good deal since I had problems last time, but I think he wants to regrind the crank and stick it back together as a 360 (350 .060 over). I'm kinda fed up with him because I asked him wheather I should use the .060 over block or use a stock 4" bore block (both 4-bolt blocks) that needed an overbore, and he told me to use the .060 over block. I don't know, he acts like he doesn't want me to make it a 383 or a roller cam, he wants to redo it exactly the same.

I don't know, I'm gonna call him monday and see if he's started looking at it, If he hasn't, I'm gonna pick it up, and either sell it or take it somewhere else.
I'm kinda ready for a change, the 6.0 might be a nice change, I'd really like a 383 but I think the future of performance is in the LSx.

Ok then, best of luck to you on the swap. I'd be happy for you even if you dropped a straight six and a 3-speed in it as long as you got it back on the road! I know it can be depressing when you drop in a new motor and it fails right off the bat.

I think you're right about that machine shop. I believe I'd find another place to do business from the sound of it.

Whatever you do, start a thread and keep us posted!

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

what do you figure it would cost to build a NEW 383 ,with all the power you've been talking about???

Hey 68, sorry for the late response, I wasn't ignoring you or trying to be rude, I just overlooked your comment earlier.

I'm pretty sure you're not really in the market for an engine so I'm assuming it was more of a debate question. I don't want to get into a heated discussion in this guys thread though when he was just asking for opinions. I know we all have different preferences, epxeriences, and skill levels. I was really just putting mine on the table for the young man that was looking for advice. I don't discredit anyone for their views and opinions and I may have stated mine a little too firmly. My apologies for that. I don't really think there's a right or wrong way for him to go. I just let him know what I would do.

I will say this though since you asked, like I mentioned already, based on what he had to start with or even this motor in my 4x4 I could build me a brand new balanced, all roller 383 well over 400hp for less than 2000.00. But that's me doing my own work. It would certainly be different paying someone else to do it.

I see you live in Tulsa! Are you going to make it to the truck meet at Thunderbird?

['72customdeluxe]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

the 700r4 I have is non-electronic, to make it work with the 5.3 I'd have to use a DBC (Drive By Cable) throttle and hook a TV cable to it. I assume that I'd use a harness and a computer simular to a manual transmission

You can use whatever computer you want. If the particular one you get is for an automatic that combines engine and trans management, all you have to get is those codes and files deleted. And you will need a new converter specifically for the ls motor or adaptors. Please get the 5.3, those motors are soooo much better in every aspect. The numbers they can make are insane. My dad's 2000 Formula make 385hp to the wheels and still delivers the sticker rating of 27mpg at 70 with a 228 @.050 cam and 4.10 gears. Try that with a gen1 motor. It has an excellent torque curve as well.

[highperf4x4]

Just for kicks!

YouTube - Chevy 383 Stroker Engine 486 HP 493 TQ...

[Dave Reed]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

Just for kicks!



YouTube - Chevy 383 Stroker Engine 486 HP 493 TQ Dyno CNC-Motorsports Chevelle Nova s10 Crate Engine Motor[/url]

How much does that engine cost though? I am not an engine builder, so let's get that straight. Isn't it more effective to just drop in an LS series motor that you can get all day long at $500 from junk yards. Now I know the initial investment is closer to $1500-$2000, but once you are there the upgrade is so cheap and the donors are aplenty. These have been out there for 10 years now. The old school 350 just isn't as good, right?

He has a 700r so all he needs is the electric fan, a motor, and a fuel pump. The 5.3 won't be as high HP as a well built as 383, but the upgrades to a 5.3 such as heads and a cam are very impressive.

Is my logic wrong here?

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by discreet007

How much does that engine cost though? I am not an engine builder, so let's get that straight. Isn't it more effective to just drop in an LS series motor that you can get all day long at $500 from junk yards. Now I know the initial investment is closer to $1500-$2000, but once you are there the upgrade is so cheap and the donors are aplenty. These have been out there for 10 years now. The old school 350 just isn't as good, right?

He has a 700r so all he needs is the electric fan, a motor, and a fuel pump. The 5.3 won't be as high HP as a well built as 383, but the upgrades to a 5.3 such as heads and a cam are very impressive.

Is my logic wrong here?

theirs alot of parts he needs besides fuel pump, engine, and eletric fan.
thats the easy stuff.

['72customdeluxe]

Yeah, a cam and bolt on only can easily make 300hp to the wheels. You could put in cheap ls1 camaro headers when you install it then spend about 600$ later on down the road and pushrods, cam, and spring. Even a stock 5.3 with headers will run 13's in a c10. Defenitely not a weak 305

['72customdeluxe]

Have you ever considered an lt1? A little simpler than an ls1 swap and the motor is cheaper too. You can atleast use your headers still. Just put in an o2 bung. They riiiiip too. Then you could have a fairly cheap 383 as well

[americanmusc1e]

just did some comparison on dynosim, the 6.0 and 383 run very simular 1/4 mile times. within .2 seconds of each other, depending on the exact gearing and stall.

[americanmusc1e]

still haven't decided anything yet, talked to my machinist today and he's supposed to give me a quote in the next couple of days on the 383.

the 5.3 is out, its either gonna be a 6.0 or 383, if I get the quote on the 383 by the end of the week I'll decide something then.

IDK, one reason I like the 383 is because it makes good power stock, but there is so much more you can do to it, the 383 makes good power, but because the limitations of the .060 over block, I'd be more limited on how much horsepower I could make before I break it


THANKS FOR ALL THE REPLIES, keep them coming

['72customdeluxe]

How does the 383 make power "stock"? Do you mean with the heads you already have? The ls motor's biggest advantage is the heads. Also, the 6.0 truck motor has c5 z06 heads with a bigger combustion chamber. The lq9 Escalade m0tors i'm looking at make alot of power cam only

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by '72customdeluxe

How does the 383 make power "stock"? Do you mean with the heads you already have? The ls motor's biggest advantage is the heads. Also, the 6.0 truck motor has c5 z06 heads with a bigger combustion chamber. The lq9 Escalade m0tors i'm looking at make alot of power cam only

The 383 makes massive torque from the long stroke of the crankshaft. It uses the crank from a 400 small block. The longer the stroke the more torque you get even without major upgrades. A 383 will pull heavy loads like a big block even at low rpm. I think that's what he meant.

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by discreet007

How much does that engine cost though? I am not an engine builder, so let's get that straight. Isn't it more effective to just drop in an LS series motor that you can get all day long at $500 from junk yards. Now I know the initial investment is closer to $1500-$2000, but once you are there the upgrade is so cheap and the donors are aplenty. These have been out there for 10 years now. The old school 350 just isn't as good, right?

He has a 700r so all he needs is the electric fan, a motor, and a fuel pump. The 5.3 won't be as high HP as a well built as 383, but the upgrades to a 5.3 such as heads and a cam are very impressive.

Is my logic wrong here?

Like I said, it was just for kicks. Let's not argue just because we have different opinions.

In my previous posts I stated that I could build a 383 with over 400hp (about 420hp actually) with the block, heads, and pistons that he already has for less than 2000.00. I know this because I've done it. I started building performance engines 20 years ago. The video was just a kicker to show what could be done with a 383 for fun. I have no idea what they want for that motor. You might call them up for their price and then try to locate a 5.3 turn key motor with 486hp and 500 ft lbs of torque that will run on 89 octane and compare the prices if you get bored.

[DavidB]

Which would you rather have when (not if) gas is $5+ a gallon? Which would have a prayer of selling if you had too when gas is $5+ a gallon?
Which would you rather hop into when your late for work on a cold morning? The only reason I would say to stick with stone age technology is if you were restoring the truck to be original.

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by DavidB

Which would you rather have when (not if) gas is $5+ a gallon? Which would have a prayer of selling if you had too when gas is $5+ a gallon?
Which would you rather hop into when your late for work on a cold morning? The only reason I would say to stick with stone age technology is if you were restoring the truck to be original.

that's one of my biggest reasons for considering the 6.0

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by DavidB

Which would you rather have when (not if) gas is $5+ a gallon? Which would have a prayer of selling if you had too when gas is $5+ a gallon?
Which would you rather hop into when your late for work on a cold morning? The only reason I would say to stick with stone age technology is if you were restoring the truck to be original.

I don't understand your reference. I get the same mileage in my 4x4 at 5600lbs with the carb/HEI as I did with the fuel injection/computer that I pulled out. And I only have to bump the switch to start it no matter if it's winter or summer. It runs the same whether it's cold or warm.

I did put a brand new edelbrock carb on it with electric choke and vacum secondaries though. Maybe you're referring to an old carb?

[highperf4x4]

Oh, wait a minute, I didn't have an LSx motor/fuel injection in the truck before. It was an older tbi. So yeah, the 5.3 would probably improve my mileage some. My bad.

But it does start and run great even when it's cold.

[brad_man_72]

ok so we had a 383 vid so heres a 5.3 vid. these trucks only weigh a few hundred lbs more than a s-10. as far as i know only engine mods are intake exhaust cam and tune.

theirs no way id rule out a 5.3 for one of these trucks cam exhaust and tune you can be lookin at 450 hp. i guess if you got bored with 450hp you could always add a 150 shot. te list goes on from there but those are the best bang for your buck

YouTube - Badass S-10 burnout 5.3L swap...

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

ok so we had a 383 vid so heres a 5.3 vid. these trucks only weigh a few hundred lbs more than a s-10. as far as i know only engine mods are intake exhaust cam and tune.

theirs no way id rule out a 5.3 for one of these trucks cam exhaust and tune you can be lookin at 450 hp. i guess if you got bored with 450hp you could always add a 150 shot. te list goes on from there but those are the best bang for your buck

YouTube - Badass S-10 burnout 5.3L swap 450RWHP+/450RWTQ+

Yeehaw!! We got a video war!

Let me go find a burnout for a 383!

One thing to mention though, an s-10 only weighs less about 3000lbs depending on the engine and I don't believe the 5.3 is much heavier than the 4.3 and my 72 longbed title says 4000lbs.

Actually another thing to mention. He started his burnout with the brake to heat the tires up, I'll find a 383 burnout without using the brake!

[highperf4x4]

Ok here ya go. 3700 lb truck, no brake burnout and rolling 25mph!!!!!

Listen to his specs. It's about the same engine I could build from muscle's current motor for less than 2000. You can fast forward to the end for the burnout if you're gettin antsy!!

YouTube - 383 STROKER BURN OUT

Now top that you 383 haters!!

Just kidding.

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by highperf4x4

I don't understand your reference. I get the same mileage in my 4x4 at 5600lbs with the carb/HEI as I did with the fuel injection/computer that I pulled out. And I only have to bump the switch to start it no matter if it's winter or summer. It runs the same whether it's cold or warm.

I did put a brand new edelbrock carb on it with electric choke and vacum secondaries though. Maybe you're referring to an old carb?

yeah, I've had some problems tuning my holley for below 50 degree weather. and I think the 6.0 would get a little better mileage.

I'd put a BB 502 or a 454/427 small block in my truck if I had the money(that's what I think of gas mileage), but I'm on a budjet.

['72customdeluxe]

Just on the subject of stroke, the 6.0 has a 3.622 inch stoke, a little better than a 350. Much bigger can be made though

[Jim_PA]

383, and I'll be the first to use the lame phrase... "there's no replacement for displacement..."

Make educated decisions about the build with someone. Do research on your engine builder. There's no reason you can't get 100K+ out of a rebuilt Gen1 with someone doing quality work for you.

Learn to tune all areas. pick a good carb like a Qjet and enjoy the poor man's fuel injection without the need for expensive custom computer programming.

Gen 1's have been around for so long; it's entirely too easy to make mistakes in planning the build. Big cams with smogger heads and a Holley on top will give you some pretty terrible gas mileage, but at the same time, it's easy to buy mis-matched parts because there are so many options to choose from.

Compare apples to apples. A 5.3 with a factory overdrive trans would certainly be good on gas, but a well-tuned Gen1 with a good overdrive trans (5 speed manual would be my choice...) would be a close match if everything else is built and tuned properly.

I've verified 13.5 MPG on a 2 hour cruise in varied terrain at 70-75 mph at 3-3500 RPM's with my 1:1 4-speed. If I had an overdrive, or slowed down to 60 - 65, I'm fairly confident I would have been in the 17-18MPG range. I run it all over the place, and while in country or low speed driving, I'm always amazed how long it takes for the needle to start sinking if I can avoid driving with the 4-barrel wide open.

No problems in cold weather here either. Hit the key and go.

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by '72customdeluxe

Just on the subject of stroke, the 6.0 has a 3.622 inch stoke, a little better than a 350. Much bigger can be made though

We're not talking about a 350 though. A 383 has a 3.78" stroke.

[highperf4x4]

Originally Posted by Jim_PA

383, and I'll be the first to use the lame phrase... "there's no replacement for displacement..."

Make educated decisions about the build with someone. Do research on your engine builder. There's no reason you can't get 100K+ out of a rebuilt Gen1 with someone doing quality work for you.

Learn to tune all areas. pick a good carb like a Qjet and enjoy the poor man's fuel injection without the need for expensive custom computer programming.

Gen 1's have been around for so long; it's entirely too easy to make mistakes in planning the build. Big cams with smogger heads and a Holley on top will give you some pretty terrible gas mileage, but at the same time, it's easy to buy mis-matched parts because there are so many options to choose from.

Compare apples to apples. A 5.3 with a factory overdrive trans would certainly be good on gas, but a well-tuned Gen1 with a good overdrive trans (5 speed manual would be my choice...) would be a close match if everything else is built and tuned properly.

I've verified 13.5 MPG on a 2 hour cruise in varied terrain at 70-75 mph at 3-3500 RPM's with my 1:1 4-speed. If I had an overdrive, or slowed down to 60 - 65, I'm fairly confident I would have been in the 17-18MPG range. I run it all over the place, and while in country or low speed driving, I'm always amazed how long it takes for the needle to start sinking if I can avoid driving with the 4-barrel wide open.

No problems in cold weather here either. Hit the key and go.

Amen brother Jim.