66 frame off resto-mod

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tomlamb

Well I have run into our first snag. The 08 5.3L engine looks like it is bad as it has a very tight spot in the rotation (with the plugs out) and it is not freeing up. The replacement setup is (hopefully) on the way and it is an 08 LY6 engine and 6l90 trans. It looks like it may be a score because the new one is a 6.0L and it should have the new HD 6 speed automatic, however; it may require some re-work due to the trans being different and possibly the motor mounts as the new engine came from an 08 Silverado HD. I also have to figure out who can do the programming for the new combo as the trans control module is located inside of the transmission pan and all the research I did was for the 5.3 combo. I'll let you know how it all turns out.

Introduce yourself w/board member 68shortstep. He's done more than one of these LS based swaps & seems to have a knowledgeable information base w/multiple sources..... http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=269754

Nice project BTW . . ...

[tomlamb]

Well, still going round and round with the salvage yard trying to get the new engine and trans so as it stands now, I don't have a good motor, I thought this project was going too smoothly...

[dolphman88]

bummer.. good luck man

[tomlamb]

While we try to get a good engine RRC had some time to figure out the fuel pump.



My existing tank was located in back, not sure if it was custom made or not.



We still need to clean the inside of the tank, but I wanted to use the stock fuel pump and sender so here is the solution.





Ant it all completed ready to feed somthing.

[66shortwide]

Dont know if it will help, but Vector Motorsports just did a engine and trans tune for my G8 that has the six speed auto. They actually sent me two different tunes so I could load the one I liked the best - stage 1 and a stage 2.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 66shortwide

Dont know if it will help, but Vector Motorsports just did a engine and trans tune for my G8 that has the six speed auto. They actually sent me two different tunes so I could load the one I liked the best - stage 1 and a stage 2.

How do you like the tune? What differances do you notice?

[tomlamb]

While I wait for the engine, here are some pamels getting the KBS treatment...

[tomlamb]

No new photos, but renewed frustrations with the junk yard where I got the motor. The 6.0L they got in for me all of a sudden they want an additional $3,000 for and I can't afford it... This is after waiting for weeks for the promised replacement so now I have to try to get my money back from these guys and find another motor or have a shop look at the existing 5.3L. The shops I have spoken to want $200 just to look at it so I need to get some ideas of what it might be.

Does anyone have any insight as to why a roll over 2008 5.3 would have a tight spot when rotating the crank a full revolution? We are rotating it without the plugs and it gets very tight in one area of a 360 degree rotation. Now for the strange part, if you are turning it with a ratchet and can get some momentum before the tight spot it will glide past it, but if you turn it slowly it takes a fair bit of force to get past this spot. When I say a fair bit of force, the starter cannot start spinning the motor if it lands on the tight spot without the plugs in. The yard told us to try spinning it with oil in the pan in case some rust developed in a cylinder and we did, but no change, the tight spot is still there and appears the same. I wouldn’t think it would be a valve because a single valve wouldn’t open on every 360 degree revolution so would that mean lower rotating assembly? Any of you have any ideas what it could be? If I have to replace a rod, pin, or piston would I have to have the entire rotating assembly re-balanced?

[1964C10]

I agree with you that if it does it on every rotation that it is in the lower end. Sound like the crank could be bent, either way I would guess that if the starter can't move it from that spot there is definitely something expensive wrong with the motor and unless the yard is going to pay to fix it I would get your money back. That's my MHO anyways. Best of luck and let us know how it turns out.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

I agree with you that if it does it on every rotation that it is in the lower end. Sound like the crank could be bent, either way I would guess that if the starter can't move it from that spot there is definitely something expensive wrong with the motor and unless the yard is going to pay to fix it I would get your money back. That's my MHO anyways. Best of luck and let us know how it turns out.

That is the strange part, I would think if the crank is bent, it wouldn't glide past the hard spot with a little momentum. With the way this junk yard has been, it is going to be a task to get the money back, they haven't lived up to a single promise thus far...

More info, we checked with a bore scope in the plug hole didn't see anything abnormal, any other ideas on what could be the issue with the 5.3?

[1964C10]

I am by no means very knowledgeable on engines, but if I remember correct, they have mechanical oil pumps, could there possibly be something binding in the pump? Have you pulled the oil pan? I think the pump can be removed from the bottom.

[1964C10]

Sorry to hear about the junk yard, that sucks good lesson for the rest of us.....get it in writing.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

I am by no means very knowledgeable on engines, but if I remember correct, they have mechanical oil pumps, could there possibly be something binding in the pump? Have you pulled the oil pan? I think the pump can be removed from the bottom.

I hadn't thought about the oil pump, we are waiting for engine stand to be available to pull the pan. Thanks!

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

Sorry to hear about the junk yard, that sucks good lesson for the rest of us.....get it in writing.

Very True! Also, next time I will ask for references before buying. American Truck in Fontana, CA will not be getting any references from me or RRC!

[1964C10]

Of course the same can be said for the water pump. Is it driven by the camshaft like the LT1?

[padresag]

if you drop the pan without their permission then they can say that you tampered with it, then they will explain to you that you are "SOL". if you are doubtful about any of just try and return it. don't give them any opportunities by being a good guy to stiff you
ron

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by padresag

if you drop the pan without their permission then they can say that you tampered with it, then they will explain to you that you are "SOL". if you are doubtful about any of just try and return it. don't give them any opportunities by being a good guy to stiff you
ron

Very good point! I think I would spend my time just trying to get my money back and find something else.

[padresag]

or you can let them have the opportunity to chk it out themselves and if they say that it is fine, then that puts the onus on them. the greatest problems with these things is the time that these motors sit around before they actually get on the road. sorry i don't recall on how long that you have had it it. if not that long then I would say flash it up and see if it runs. just make up a simple engine stand and do it. or find and eng shop that has an eng dyno and get them to do it. if it goes for a dump then they sold you a motor that doesn't work and you haven't opened it up.
everyone tries to weasel out of everything , just get tough or smarter than them. I can remember back in the mid 60's when a friend had bought a falcon I think with a nice little v8 in it(he had previously worked for Ford) and had some concerns about the eng and he only had about 350-400 mi on it.
he took it in and the service manager told to go put some more mi on it and to see what happens. ford had a policy then if there was a problem under 500 mi they replace the eng and if it was over repair. he went home with it and dumped the oil and took it for a drive and it didn't make it to 500 mi. new eng. That is hardball, but sometimes it has to be done
ron

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

Of course the same can be said for the water pump. Is it driven by the camshaft like the LT1?

the water pump looks to be belt driven and the tight spot is there with the belt off...

Thinking about it, the cam should rotate once for every 2 crankshaft rotations? The oil pump looks like it is located behind the front cover on the cam so if it was the oil pump I would think it would have a tight spot every other full rotation.

Any other ideas?

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by padresag

if you drop the pan without their permission then they can say that you tampered with it, then they will explain to you that you are "SOL". if you are doubtful about any of just try and return it. don't give them any opportunities by being a good guy to stiff you
ron

You may be correct. This was at a good price to start for an 08 motor and trans so that is why if I could find out what could be wrong and how much it would cost to fix I would end up with an almost new motor and trans. I have called a bunch of the yards in the area and nobody has a Gen4 setup except the local LKQ yard at $5K.

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by padresag

or you can let them have the opportunity to chk it out themselves and if they say that it is fine, then that puts the onus on them. the greatest problems with these things is the time that these motors sit around before they actually get on the road. sorry i don't recall on how long that you have had it it. if not that long then I would say flash it up and see if it runs. just make up a simple engine stand and do it. or find and eng shop that has an eng dyno and get them to do it. if it goes for a dump then they sold you a motor that doesn't work and you haven't opened it up.
everyone tries to weasel out of everything , just get tough or smarter than them.

Tough to say how long it sat, we have had it for almost 2 months. The yard did say we could open to pan up and see if we can tell anything, I am just trying to figure out some ballpark ideas of what it could be before we open up the engine and roll the dice. I wouldn't want to spend the $$ getting the harness and computer done just in case I cannot find another Gen 4 in budget.

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by tomlamb

The yard did say we could open to pan up and see if we can tell anything.

Not to be cynical but as padresag pointed out, I would get that in writing before I opened anything up.

I can hear you on the budget build! but depending on what kind of yard it is, they may definitely know what they are doing trying to sell you a bum engine full well knowing what is wrong with it. I know that sounds harsh but like everyone else I am sure they are having a hard time as well in this economy.

[rayce08]

sounds like it spun a bearing , if the motor ran while it was upside down then there was no oil going to the bearings , if your lucky it was on the rod or crank , it could have messed up the blockside bearing and messed up the block and thats not good , but most of the time its a rod or crank cap bearing .

[rcrahn]

Originally Posted by tomlamb

While we try to get a good engine RRC had some time to figure out the fuel pump.

Attachment 472002

My existing tank was located in back, not sure if it was custom made or not.

Attachment 472003

We still need to clean the inside of the tank, but I wanted to use the stock fuel pump and sender so here is the solution.

Attachment 472004

Attachment 472005

Ant it all completed ready to feed somthing.

Attachment 472006

Need to ask what in tank fuel pump this is? I am looking at installing a walbro in the aluminum tank I have.....

[tomlamb]

Originally Posted by rcrahn

Need to ask what in tank fuel pump this is? I am looking at installing a walbro in the aluminum tank I have.....

This is the stock 2008 Silverado fuel pump and tank locking ring. My old tank was already a big steel can that mounted behind the rear end between the frame rails so they just cut it open and use the stock Silverado pump and sender assembly we got with our "dead" engine.