1969 Short Wide

[brian69longbed]

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

Sounds like progress whether it's the 86 or 69

i very much agree

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by brian69longbed

im definately not shooting down jb weld but.. C'MON!!! on a block??? ha ha

Yes, I have a real hard time believing someone did this. I really wonder if it was just a dope job by someone way back? I have heard of people putting 90weight oil in the crankcase to keep an engine from smoking. The really weird thing, 2 of the PO are relatives and one of them drove it daily for a month or 2. I purchased it from my Father in law about 10 years ago and he drove it for a few weeks. It didn't leak coolant so, no one noticed till I jerked the headers off. Crazy deal! I never seen anything like it either.

[brian69longbed]

crazy, at least now you guys will know whats in there. AND NO MORE

[JohnC]

Say what you will about it sounds like a pretty good testament for JB Weld.

I don't know of any legal issues anyone would have with curtting the frame. A lot of people do it, and actually when they are finished it is usually stronger than before due to the extra reinforcement they weld to it.

I do thing the way you are going is a better way. Why cut one when you can find a short frame to start with.

Keep us posted!!

[mcbassin]

Made some progress over the weekend. I found a cab on Craigslist, it is pretty solid too. Way better than any we have including my 70CST. The supports and floor pan are solid as a rock. The only real rusty areas I have found (so far) out rocker (they started pulling the pass.), lower cab corner and front left top of the firewall.
The previous owner decided to start shaving the drip rail, so I will have to finish that and they cut the cab in 2 spot to "body drop" it. I don't like the fact they just cut the whole rail off instead of a little at a time, hope it works out right. All in all not too bad for $100 IMO.
It will take way less time to fix than the original.

We cleaned a bunch of junk out of my shop to make room for it. Now I just need to find a bottle for my tig welder. BTW, anyone know if I can use straight argon to mig weld with? or just the 25/75 mix? or vise versa? can a tig use a mix? I have a Midstate Tri-arc and it will mig, tig and stick weld. Here are the pics of the cab:

[scotts62]

Good find! Not bad at all for the price

[my67chevytruck]

I have seen ppl use straight Co2 for mig welding. I thought straight argon was for aluminum and stainless, but i could be wrong.... looks like a great deal on the cab...

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

I have seen ppl use straight o2 for mig welding. I thought straight argon was for aluminum and stainless, but i could be wrong.... looks like a great deal on the cab...

Thanks heath I will do a little research on the subject. I purchased the welder used a few years back and have never actually used for mig or tig. I would rather use the tig if possible. I don't want to buy a gas bottle for on or the other and find out it doesn't weld.
Mike

[72BlckButy]

Nice score on the cab Mike, that should help the progress on your build quite a bit.

[JohnC]

Nice find man. Glad to see you are making some headway on it.

[Mike Bradbury]

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

I have seen ppl use straight o2 for mig welding. I thought straight argon was for aluminum and stainless, but i could be wrong.... looks like a great deal on the cab...

You are getting your gasses mixed up. You can use C02 straight or a mixture of argon CO2, but not O2 (that is oxygen) that is what you are trying to drive away with the shielding gas. Pure argon is used for Aluminum but a 75/25 mix is sufficient for SS. There are all kinds of trimixes that are available for these welders but I tend to stick with the basics for normal everyday welding.

[Mike Bradbury]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

BTW, anyone know if I can use straight argon to mig weld with? or just the 25/75 mix? or vise versa? can a tig use a mix? I have a Midstate Tri-arc and it will mig, tig and stick weld. Here are the pics of the cab:

No argon will not produce very good welds just by itself on ferrous metal. the inclusion of CO2 is needed. 75/25 is good enough for what you are attempting.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

You are getting your gasses mixed up. You can use C02 straight or a mixture of argon CO2, but not O2 (that is oxygen) that is what you are trying to drive away with the shielding gas. Pure argon is used for Aluminum but a 75/25 mix is sufficient for SS. There are all kinds of trimixes that are available for these welders but I tend to stick with the basics for normal everyday welding.

Your right, I meant CO2. I actually did an experiment with 75/25 mix on mild steel at work yesterday. It works okay, but the pure argon works cleaner and not as much sparking if you will. I am probably going to just get the mix so I can switch back forth with the mig and tig. It will be next week more than likely (Deer rifle season this weekend!)
Thanks, Mike for your advice.

[1sik52]

If you need help hauling off those Camaros I can be assistance to you!!!

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 1sik52

If you need help hauling off those Camaros I can be assistance to you!!!

Sure thing, I will keep you in mind! BTW, That really is a SIK 52 you have there!

[mcbassin]

Update: Well I got the bottle for the Tig welder (100% argon). It has a few issues, the regulator is junk, the high frequency is a little flakey, and I don't like it not having a foot pedal to adjust the amperage. I was able to work through these issues and make some decent welds. If I had the option of leaving it stock, I would, in my opinion it takes an extremely long time to grind and weld the drip rail. I know I will have quite a bit of time in extra body work too.
It should look pretty good when I get it done.
I finished welding the driprail shaving, started grinding and finishing the welds. I also scored a 5.3 today! It has a few minor problems like the P.O. managed to break one of the cover mounts and tore a big hole in the manifold. He lost the motor cover too.

It is a 2003 model and it looks like the DBW type. Not too sure about that yet. It might be easier to set up. It also came with all the wiring, accessories, exhaust manifolds, o2 sensors, and exhaust drop downs. All this looks like a basket case right now but for $350 I had to buy it. Craig's list is the best!

[mcbassin]

I also had to build a quick and dirty engine stand/dolly out of a little old oscilliscope cart I had laying out in the stuff to be recycled pile.

Looks like I'm in the market for a new intake manifold. Anyone know if a cable operated throttle body will work on this engine?

[scotts62]

Man that is going to be sweet when your done!!

Ive been thinking about a 5.3 or 6.0 swap in my truck, it would be cool to have an auto start on it

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by scotts62

Man that is going to be sweet when your done!!

Ive been thinking about a 5.3 or 6.0 swap in my truck, it would be cool to have an auto start on it

Thanks Scott.

I hope it works out good. I made a dumb@ss discovery a little while ago I found out my good deal on the 5.3 is really a 4.8. I haven't been able to get in touch with the guy I bought from yet. I'm pretty certain he didn't intentionally mislead me. He purchased it from another guy(the one that broke the intake with the pulling chain). It kinda bothers me but, I think it may work out fine for a daily driver for a kid. Looks like about 255 ponies instead of 285....DOH!

I was able to get a little work done on the cab today. Still working on what the PO screwed up on. He was doing a "body drop" so he cut notches in the cab to lower it on to the frame. So, I had to rotate the cab and weld up the notches. Next step will be to fix the rust and replace the rockers.

[Puropedo]

Looking good! Are you actually thinking of using that 5.3 for your project?

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Puropedo

Looking good! Are you actually thinking of using that 5.3 for your project?

Purpedo,
I was actually thinking of using the 5.3 but now it looks like I'm using a 4.8.
I purchased it as a 5.3 but discovered earlier today it is actually a 4.8. Why, would it surprise you for us to use this powerplant? I am or was pretty excited to get it now I'm little less excited.

[Puropedo]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Purpedo,
I was actually thinking of using the 5.3 but now it looks like I'm using a 4.8.
I purchased it as a 5.3 but discovered earlier today it is actually a 4.8. Why, would it surprise you for us to use this powerplant? I am or was pretty excited to get it now I'm little less excited.

Oh man Im sorry you just found out about that, 4.8's are ok I guess, but 5.3's kick a$$, anyways the reason I asked is because I would like to perform the same task for my 68 on my avatar (I already have my 5.3 drivetrain). I could learn a few things from you doing it first....

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Puropedo

Oh man Im sorry you just found out about that, 4.8's are ok I guess, but 5.3's kick a$$, anyways the reason I asked is because I would like to perform the same task for my 68 on my avatar (I already have my 5.3 drivetrain). I could learn a few things from you doing it first....

No problem, I have researched it pretty hard and it looks like there is a 30horse difference in the 2 engines. I will be looking for a 5.3/4l60e to go in there still, but I'm not afraid to use the 4.8 at all. Glad you already have one for your project. I will work great in your blue truck or you new project. I am pretty far away from doing the install but when I do, I will document it as good as I can. Right now, the biggest hang up, is getting the frame to fit into the shop. It is not the best weather to be working on this thing outside. I have plenty to do on the cab still.

[JohnC]

I think the 4.8 would be good to use as well. No since in sinking more money into another engine. Your welding looks pretty good too.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by JohnC

I think the 4.8 would be good to use as well. No since in sinking more money into another engine. Your welding looks pretty good too.

Thanks John,
I had to fight with the TIG machine because I'm not used to direct amp adjustment, with no footpedal it makes it a little tough to get good welds without burning through.
Incidentally, I talked to the guy selling me the motor and he said it was an honest mistake. Which is what I thought he would say. He offered to give me the cash back. So, what do I do? Get my cash back? give him the 4.8 back and lookd for another? I'm confused, I bet I could get 5.3 eventually(in my price range...CHEAP). It just sucks that I already have this one sitting in my garage. Dang it!