Engine Starves for Fuel When I Hit Second Gear

[Old Yeller 1970]

Originally Posted by 383Ram

So is that 14" at idle in park or idle in gear---either way, cam cant be that big to make that much vacuum.

It's 14" in park, and the cam can be that big and make that much vacuum when it's custom ground on a 114 LSA.

Originally Posted by cableguy0

That thing should idle in park under 1k rpm.

TTT, but I've got three sets of fouled plugs to show for it.

BTW, I've been looking on the net for a Holley fuel pump rebuild kit and found one place that sells it. The reassembly instructions I posted earlier are for a totally different designed pump from Edlebrock. If you are supposed to do the same thing to the Holley it Pisses Me Off that they don't tell you about that in the technical information on the Holley website.

[cableguy0]

the idle deal could be a timing/carb issue. but thats the least of your worries right now. better to knock out one thing at a time. I just searched around and cant find any kind of info on that holley but the edelbrock and holley are almost identical very very similar design i would assume the procedure should be the same. found this on holleys website http://www.holley.com/data/Products/.../199R10478.pdf

[Old Yeller 1970]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

the idle deal could be a timing/carb issue.

I took the plug out of cylinder number one, had someone turn the engine over till the compression blew my finger off, dropped the dizzy in where it pointed at cylinder one. Timing should be correct.

[cableguy0]

theres one problem. you need to set timing with a light thats why it wont idle below 1k rpm. probably dont have near enough advance at idle.

[Rodms]

What cam is it and what jets are in the carb front and back?

[Old Yeller 1970]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

theres one problem. you need to set timing with a light thats why it wont idle below 1k rpm. probably dont have near enough advance at idle.

It's got all the advance the engine will take without knocking. I set it by ear, running it up and down the highway.

Originally Posted by Rodms

What cam is it and what jets are in the carb front and back?

What cam is it? It's all in the sig and in previous posts but here it is again. It's a Competition Cam 280 Magnum ground on a 114 LSA. 230@.5" Jets are the factory setting. I don't remember exactly at the moment but it's available on BG's website.

[Rodms]

Originally Posted by Old Yeller 1970

It's got all the advance the engine will take without knocking. I set it by ear, running it up and down the highway.

What cam is it? It's all in the sig and in previous posts but here it is again. It's a Competition Cam 280 Magnum ground on a 114 LSA. 230@.5" Jets are the factory setting. I don't remember exactly at the moment but it's available on BG's website.

e old trick It will run at 2000 and up?Can you set the time at about 2500 rpm and set it by ear someone watch the tach when it goes to peak stop and then ajust your idle on the carbYour carb should be around 62,64 square to start with,My motors are set at 3000 rpm and hand tuned timng.lights can get you close but rpms must be correct In other words someone hold the throttle and watch the tach,when it rises in rpm you are getting close to time,I hope you are not eating cam and parts,That will make your plugs foul and won't idle.Springs on heads ???

[Old Yeller 1970]

Originally Posted by Rodms

I hope you are not eating cam and parts

Yep, me too. I had the engine built and fired the first time 4 years ago. I ran it altogether for about 1-2 hours. While it was being painted and other wise sitting in limbo waiting for more time, money and other parts, I learned about cams being wiped out because the govt made the oil companies take out zinc. I bought a bottle of the additive and put it in. There's not much I can do now. If the cam is going bad it's going bad. The only way to find out is to run it.

The springs in the heads are plenty stout.

[Rodms]

Yeah but can be to stout!

[Old Yeller 1970]

In an earlier post I stated:

Originally Posted by Old Yeller 1970

I usually shift when I feel the engine start to fall off of it's torque which was around 5500 RPMS. It should be good for 6500 but I haven't taken it that high. I could do that in first and see what happens. I could also shift from 1 to 2 and wait a moment before nailing the throttle and see what happens.

I did that today and ran the engine to about 6200-6300 RPMs without a problem. I also waited a moment, when shifting from 1-2, before nailing the throttle and didn't experience the engine stall. Having spoken to a mechanic yesterday who thought it's the carb, I'm beginning to agree. The fuel pump is still putting out about 2 1/2 PSI. I'm partly leaning to a different carb (Holley 6150 - VS 750 CFM) just to have the manual choke which would be easier to get it to crank and idle.

[Old Yeller 1970]

Finally got it running yesterday. Dang these projects take forever. I bought a rebuilt Holley 4160 - VS 750 CFM. I got the manual choke installed too. Now it will crank and idle even when it's 25F. It idles at about 700 RPMs now too.

So what happened in second gear, you ask? Power, lots of head snapping power. There's no stumble, no bog or anything. It hits hard and keeps right on pulling. It also pulls a few more RPMs on the top end. I think the larger carb is letting the engine breath a little better. Power off the line is great too. Everything hooks up good and runs out hard. I definitely enjoyed some adrenaline last night.

PS: I bought the carb off ebay from musclecarexpress for $169 + shipping. If anyone else is looking for a good deal on a carb, I'd recommend their services.

[BossHogg69]

Glad to see you got it all together and singing the same tune!

so, uh, where's the burnout video????

[Old Yeller 1970]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

so, uh, where's the burnout video????

I'll work on it next.