53 BURBAN barn find

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by '58Patch

This is in a '53 with a 1975 Jag XJ6 IRS...

Top hat frame. That must be a '53 car frame but I don't see why a similar approach wouldn't work on a pickup frame.

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by nickp51chevy

I've seen the Corvette IFS kits for sale, and they are a lot cheaper than the MII kits. Plus you'll get a GM lug pattern.

And much bigger and better brakes, but I don't think those kits include the Corvette parts, just the brackets needed to mount them. I actively watched craigslist for a parts Corvette for a couple years and never found one cheap enough I was willing to bite.

Actually that's not quite true. I did find one guy willing to sell me the front and rear suspension for $500 but he had to wait for something else to happen first and when next I contacted him he'd sold the stuff to someone else. That car was the ugliest Corvette I'd ever seen, looked like it had been left open outdoors (here in the Northwest) for a few years.

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by NONHOG

Seattle craigslist......... Jaguar XJS 1982 - $700 (Cle Elum).

Grab it Brad! That belongs under your panel!

If I weren't currently disabled I might be hooking the trailer right now and heading to Cle Elum. I've persuaded myself Jag is the right way to go. Do you suppose that will last long enough I'll do anything about it?

[nickp51chevy]

Originally Posted by Steve@OldSub.com

..... but I don't think those kits include the Corvette parts, just the brackets needed to mount them.......

No I've actually seen the entire IFS kit somewhere. Problem is I can't remember where or I'd post it up. It included everything, and it was about $5-600.

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by nickp51chevy

No I've actually seen the entire IFS kit somewhere. Problem is I can't remember where or I'd post it up. It included everything, and it was about $5-600.

Name of the outfit is Flat Out Engineering and I thought they were a Seattle company but the contact info is all LA. I wonder if they have moved recently.

http://www.flatout-engineering.com/pricing.html

Apparently prices start about $800 and it is called complete. But if you look through the pricing they are selling a number of additional parts that lead me to believe your $800 is just a down payment.

And then the FAQ says they can sell you all the parts hub to hub but since the stuff is readily available most people buy the kit and source their own Corvette parts.

Could the $600 be someone unloading their stuff on craigslist?

[Bishops Trucks]

I would sale both my trucks and my car to get me one of those. Nice find.

[1952ssr]

I second not transferring to a s10, it is too nice. For a budget front end conversion that is really nice you could go with Scott Dandorths(sp) AD kit that uses all S10 a-arms, spindles, etc. I think it's $550. I would love finding a burb to go with my HHR and '52

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by Steve@OldSub.com

Grab it Brad! That belongs under your panel!

If I weren't currently disabled I might be hooking the trailer right now and heading to Cle Elum. I've persuaded myself Jag is the right way to go. Do you suppose that will last long enough I'll do anything about it?

Steve I have enough euro cars at my house for now(3)
Maybe someday, there was one closer for 800.00
I still day dream about getting an extra frame and doing it up "fun" while the panel remains complete.
Hey maybe that'd be an idea for you CHIZZLER. do up an extra frame while yours is complete.
Jags are likely plentiful in Oregon too ? (if you even like the Jag idea)

[CHIZZLER]

Thanks everyone for your input.i like the idea of ifs but am not sold on the s10 swap.the frame is in great shape and fits the truck nice and tight.ive seen the 3" drop axle and 3"mono leafs. But what about brakes and steering. Im not sure yet and that is why all your input is helping me.i dont like that the truck will sit about 4.5" above the frame with the s10 swap.

[nickp51chevy]

Disk brake linky:
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.aspx?Page=70

I've seen an AD truck with power steering on it. I think that he used a 250 and put the power steering on it. I think he used a power rack on the straight axle.

[rcrahn]

What a nice find man! Way to go!
At the Grand National Roadster show in Pomona there was a real nice burban, 1951 I believe, that was bagged. Clean. Here are some pics....

['58Patch]

Drooooool....

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

But what about brakes and steering.

Front disk kits are readily available from several vendors. They are not real expensive. Both 5-lug and 6-lug options are available though neither of them will let you use the stock wheels.

I don't know that there is a kit to put disk on the stock rear but since most people convert from torque tube to open drive in conjunction with an engine swap that's usually not an issue. Choose a rear that comes with or can be converted to disk.

There are several approaches to power steering. I don't like the rack and pinion on a straight axle approach. I think its bad engineering and will both hurt ride and handling. Skip that approach.

People talk about a Toyota based approach but I've never been able to find information that made it seem superior to the GM Saginaw box approach. The Saginaw box used on a Chevy or GMC pickup from about 1970 through 1987 can be put on the 1/2-ton frame using an inexpensive kit. The kit both gives you power steering and moves the steering box away from the exhaust manifold in a V-8 swap.

I'm currently planning a truck using basically this approach. I plan a dropped axle from Sid (droppedaxles.com I think) with a 5-lug disk kit and power steering from CPP. I'll replace the kingpins and shackles and probably update the tie-rod ends.

At the rear I'll probably use an S-10 4x4 rear, which is a little narrow but I happen to have one on hand. Its a drum brake version but I feel that is adequate. A possible alternative is a 60's 6-lug open drive rear I have. If I go that route I'll need to switch plans and go with a 6-lug disk kit in front. I have a nice set of stock wheels and if I could go disk and use them I'd probably go 6-lug. Since that won't work I'm more likely to go 5-lug and buy a custom set of artillery wheels because my wife likes them.

This truck is being built as a driver for my wife and therefore will have some concessions to who she is. I've already specified power steering, it will need power brakes too. I plan to mount a booster and dual master on the firewall and will likely use something from my collection of junk.

The motor will be a small block, perhaps a 283 but if the one I have isn't good I'll rebuild a 305 or 350. I have a pile of TH350s so I'll use one of them. This truck won't make any significant trips and the TH350 is easy and cheap. Back to CPP for their engine and trans crossmembers to mount whatever motor and trans.

I'm buying a number of parts to do this one, while often I try to build more of it myself. This one I really want rock solid and comfortable for the wife to feel free to attend local cruises driving it herself. I doubt she'll ever drive it even 100 miles. I can imagine her taking it to a show that is 45 miles away but that is likely her limit. I just want to fulfill the promise I made to build her one and make sure she has fun with it.

The basis of this particular truck happens to be a '53 GMC Suburban frame that I have stashed out back. The cab is a '49 or '50 1-ton 5-window. The bed is from a '48 and I haven't chosen fenders yet but I have enough stashed around. My wife is only 5 feet tall so it will need buckets to allow her to drive it and carry a passenger. She really likes the seats in my Corvette and I have an extra set of those so those are likely what will go in this truck.

I have a steering column with very similar controls to the car she was driving a year ago. I'll probably use that one in this truck, though the logic no longer makes sense since she changed cars.

Sorry, I didn't intend to turn your thread into my build thread, but I thought illustrating an approach and some of the thinking might be helpful. At least I hope it is!

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

mine is a gmc. Not sure yet what motor it is.

Have you figured out what the motor is? If it is still a GMC the first three numbers in the engine serial number indicate the size. Its not unusual for the numbers to be preceded by a letter 'A'. I'd expect it to be a 228 if its original, but 248, 270 and 302 are all legitimate values.

Do you plan to run the original motor?

[nickp51chevy]

http://www.inliners.org/buffalo/index.htm

This is the guy to talk to about the Saginaw steering. He is up here by me, and I understand that his prices are real good.

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Does Buffalo's steering offerings include trucks? I thought his focus was the cars.

[CHIZZLER]

Today i got the hood in place. It dosnt fit worth a s***. I have a carb off a 250 but it wont bolt up. It is a 228.got all the door handles back in. I guess i need to find a carb. Any help.

[nickp51chevy]

Originally Posted by Steve@OldSub.com

Does Buffalo's steering offerings include trucks? I thought his focus was the cars.

All he does is trucks. They are all over his property.

[nickp51chevy]

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

Today i got the hood in place. It dosnt fit worth a s***.

These trucks hoods are one of the hardest, it not, the hardest hoods to fit correctly. It just takes time to tweak it into place with adjustments here and there.

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by nickp51chevy

All he does is trucks. They are all over his property.

When I see him at shows he isn't showing a truck, he has a car (Pontiac?) with a 292 if I remember right.

Someone else recently asked him if he has a disk conversion kit for 8-lug trucks and his response was no. I wish he or someone like him would solve that one.

[Steve@OldSub.com]

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

Today i got the hood in place. It dosnt fit worth a s***. I have a carb off a 250 but it wont bolt up. It is a 228.got all the door handles back in. I guess i need to find a carb. Any help.

If the front clip was taken apart for the repaint aligning the hood really starts with making sure the fenders and grill are all correct.

Take a look at nonhog's panel build thread. He found a carb solution that might also be right for you.

Or go check the swap meet at OldGMCTrucks.com's forum. There is a classic Nicson two carb manifold with carbs listed for sale there. The guy wants $800 for it but it sure would be cool on that 228!

If my approach wasn't to pull the sixes and replace them with eights I'd sure be lusting after that manifold.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by CHIZZLER

I have a carb off a 250 but it wont bolt up. It is a 228.got all the door handles back in. I guess i need to find a carb. Any help.

If the hole spacing on a 250 carb is too wide for the GMC manifold, look at a carb for a 216 Chevy. A lot more of these were made than the GMC (Zenith?) carb. The same hole spacing was used on 6 cyl Fords until much later, but the linkage would need to be cobbled on one of those.

Ray

[CHIZZLER]

I thought maybe i could drill the holes out.thanks for all the help guys. Im going to pick up a battery today and see if the starter will turn without the carb.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by nickp51chevy

These trucks hoods are one of the hardest, it not, the hardest hoods to fit correctly. It just takes time to tweak it into place with adjustments here and there.

You have to fit the hood to the cab and radiator support then fit the fenders to the hood, then minor tweaking to get the fender/door gap right. Hopefully the burb body won't have the same front to back tilt alignment issues regular cabs have.

[NONHOG]

This may help, not having done it yet myself I can't confirm. Its worth a read.

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/bo...alignment.html

As for Buffalo Ent. I spoke with him last week about a front disc. conversion
for my 49 GMC panel. Sounds well thought out. He does cars and trucks.