IFS in my 55 project-start

[ratty 46]

I dig the trim colored front clip. Very apropos for the vehicle.

I can't wait to see it on the ground again.

Ratty 46

[Kim57]

The frame looks slick. I may have to consider that on my frame.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

Looks good! Looking forward to seeing it come together.

[Woodbutcher]

That satin sheen looks good. I am curious about your stock front cross-member. What were your reasons for leaving it in? I removed mine after drilling out a dozen or so rivets. It cleaned things up, but it was a lot of work.

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by Woodbutcher

That satin sheen looks good. I am curious about your stock front cross-member. What were your reasons for leaving it in? I removed mine after drilling out a dozen or so rivets. It cleaned things up, but it was a lot of work.

I cut about half of if out. But trimmed it to look, sort of, factory. It seemed like a good idea. However, if I went ahead and cut it out, boxed the front of the frame and ran a bar across the front it would look good too. Also, I thought leaving it in would add more strength, but I don't think that much matters with the new cross member in.

[Ipaintgrt]

It looks very nice, but that paint is not designed for what your using it for. I have used it alot. It works great for trim. Your build looks great and I'm not trying to dog your work just help you with your choice of coatings by giving you some advice from my experience. You can do what you want and I'm sure it will be fine, but it wont last or be as durable like a catalyzed product.

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by Ipaintgrt

It looks very nice, but that paint is not designed for what your using it for. I have used it alot. It works great for trim. Your build looks great and I'm not trying to dog your work just help you with your choice of coatings by giving you some advice from my experience. You can do what you want and I'm sure it will be fine, but it wont last or be as durable like a catalyzed product.

actually, I see your point. But we'll, have to see. Fortunately, I am in southern AZ so rust want be an issue. We will see about durability. On thing about it is that it will touch up easy. I sprayed it with a gun, but the rattle can stuff matches perfect so hitting it wih a shot from a can won't look goofy. Also this truck will be something I drive maybe once a week and to fool around with on the weekends.

[Scottshotrods]

Looks good
justin

[Kabwe]

It looks great.

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by Ipaintgrt

I am 100% sure that I would not use trim paint over bare metal. You will be very sorry if you dont use some kind of catalyzed paint system to paint your frame. If it were me I would epoxy prime your frame, this gives good adhesion and corrosion protection, and then paint it with what ever type of paint, catalyzed of course, that will give you the finish you want. Trim paint is not catalyzed and is not durable. It will paint over metal, but so will $1 rattle can from walmart. The way I look at it is, you have alot of work, time and energy in this project and to shortcut the paint on your frame and suspension while its all apart would be a shame because down the road it will rust, or come off and chip easily. JMO.

Bro,
Actually, I am interested in your perspective. What particular expoxy primer do you recommend? And what about POR 15 and their paints over bare metal?

[Ipaintgrt]

Originally Posted by vjjack04

Bro,
Actually, I am interested in your perspective. What particular expoxy primer do you recommend? And what about POR 15 and their paints over bare metal?

Hey, I just want you to know that I think your build is looking really great, and I think your doing a great job. I don't want to come off as one of those guys that picks apart your work, because I think your doing a great job and it will be a killer truck when your done. If you use a PPG DP 90 it will be black, then you can paint it with a semi gloss black. Some guys like to leave the DP 90, because it looks like the sem trim paint, but it doesn't have any UV protection so after a while it will turn a brown color. I have some Shopline brand Epoxy Primer the is a $100 for a gallon and the catalyst. Your local paint store should be able to help you with the topcoat. Just let them know what your wanting and they should be able to hook you up. Be sure to check online for the prices to make sure they aren't overcharging you. Again your job is looking great, so don't get me wrong. If I lived closer I would love to come over and check out your build, or I have a boothe in my shop that you would be welcome to use.I have only used POR 15 for sealing motorcycle gas tanks. I pretty much mostly paint motorcycles. I do paint cars and trucks, but I like motorcycles. S

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by Ipaintgrt

Hey, I just want you to know that I think your build is looking really great, and I think your doing a great job. I don't want to come off as one of those guys that picks apart your work, because I think your doing a great job and it will be a killer truck when your done. If you use a PPG DP 90 it will be black, then you can paint it with a semi gloss black. Some guys like to leave the DP 90, because it looks like the sem trim paint, but it doesn't have any UV protection so after a while it will turn a brown color. I have some Shopline brand Epoxy Primer the is a $100 for a gallon and the catalyst. Your local paint store should be able to help you with the topcoat. Just let them know what your wanting and they should be able to hook you up. Be sure to check online for the prices to make sure they aren't overcharging you. Again your job is looking great, so don't get me wrong. If I lived closer I would love to come over and check out your build, or I have a boothe in my shop that you would be welcome to use.I have only used POR 15 for sealing motorcycle gas tanks. I pretty much mostly paint motorcycles. I do paint cars and trucks, but I like motorcycles. S

oK but to tell you the truth, and it saddens me to say (and that I did it), but I took the Trim Paint off. Yep, went out the next day and was attempting to fool around putting some of the suspension parts on and noticed little scratchs when barely touching it with a part or something. Scratched tested other areas with my finger nail and it came off too easy in my opinion. It is a shame too because the color was perfect and appearance wise it was awsome. I also prepped the frame well with sanding and cleaning solutions prior to painting. The old part of the frame seemed to take it better than the new. Anyway, 2 hours later with laquer thinner and rags and I got it all off. Now, if I use DP 90, and I only need quart or less, what paint on top would get me the satin look I want? Also, do I sand the DP 90 afterwards to prepare it to take the paint? Thanks for any advice here.

[Ipaintgrt]

Here is what I would recomend. I try and keep the cost down as much as I can because I know we all dont have unlimited budgets. I like PPG products and we have a good supplier here so that is what I use. PPG offers a brand called Shopline that is cheaper than the PPG but is made by PPG. I think it works very good so I use it for some things I don't want too get too much money tied up in. Use JP 377, Blk Epoxy primer, and Hdnr JH 3770 for painting over the bare metal frame. It provides great adhesion and corrosion resistance. Then top coat with single stage urethane JAU 9300 w/JH 6670 Hdnr. This will be shiny so if you want it to be semi gloss add a flattening agent J81. The more flattening agent the flatter it will be. Good luck.

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by Ipaintgrt

Here is what I would recomend. I try and keep the cost down as much as I can because I know we all dont have unlimited budgets. I like PPG products and we have a good supplier here so that is what I use. PPG offers a brand called Shopline that is cheaper than the PPG but is made by PPG. I think it works very good so I use it for some things I don't want too get too much money tied up in. Use JP 377, Blk Epoxy primer, and Hdnr JH 3770 for painting over the bare metal frame. It provides great adhesion and corrosion resistance. Then top coat with single stage urethane JAU 9300 w/JH 6670 Hdnr. This will be shiny so if you want it to be semi gloss add a flattening agent J81. The more flattening agent the flatter it will be. Good luck.

OK. But one more question because you have credible experience. What do you think of this (Summit Chassis Shield).

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...s%20shield.pdf

I am not cheap but not much of a painter either. Actually I have a 2nd question, if I go the expoxy primer and single stage urethane, do I need to sand between the primer and urethan coats?

[Ipaintgrt]

If you use the epoxy primer and the single stage you apply the primer and let it flash, or 15 minutes or so between coats, then spray the single stage. No sanding in between. I have never used the summit chassis paint, but if you do let us know how it works.

[lonelywanderer]

sorry if i missed it but i was wondering what you did for your parking brake?

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by lonelywanderer

sorry if i missed it but i was wondering what you did for your parking brake?

I have been away from this for a little while - having to work stinks...anyway, i have not decided what I will do about the parking brake. I expect I will put in a floor mounted lever but not sure.....

[Scottshotrods]

Originally Posted by vjjack04

I have been away from this for a little while - having to work stinks...anyway, i have not decided what I will do about the parking brake. I expect I will put in a floor mounted lever but not sure.....

We are a lokar dealer and I have great prices on there product line
Justin

[lonelywanderer]

i see, i'm in the middle of doing ifs and was looking for ideas. i want to keep the cool hand brake in the cab so maybe i can make something work.

did you use he stock brake hardlines that was on the truck or were new ones made when your went ifs and if you had any pics you could post up would be cool. thanks

[vjjack04]

Originally Posted by lonelywanderer

i see, i'm in the middle of doing ifs and was looking for ideas. i want to keep the cool hand brake in the cab so maybe i can make something work.

did you use he stock brake hardlines that was on the truck or were new ones made when your went ifs and if you had any pics you could post up would be cool. thanks

I haven't got the brakes done yet....sorta planing for that now. However I plan to re-do all of the lines with stainless..I will do pictures when I start this....pretty soon taking time off from spending until after Christmas.

[vjjack04]

ok, it is now March and I am getting back to this. I finally painted the frame (now has Summit Frame Paint on it) and I have almost all of my parts to run the new brake lines. I am using stainless and AN fittings. Had posted about stainless and should have mentioned up front that I am using AN fittings and stainless which is 37 degree flaring. Not hard at all with the Ridged flare tool I bought. Here's what the front end looks like assembled and painted.

[rainydayforme]

Looking Good!!

[Kim57]

Looks real nice.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

Looks great! Glad to see you back at it!

[vjjack04]

ok,
I have been back at this now - one of the reasons I have posted many questions recently. After several "life in the way" related delays, I am on a schedule to finish the truck by May (well at least get it on the road). Attached are a couple of pictures with the firewall painted, the steering column in and some pictures of the motor nearly complete-