SiX-fo SuBuRbAn

[jonzcustomshop]

ok, got a little more done today, ground off and punched out about 30 rivets that were still stuck in parts of the brackets and braces, some punched through, and most had to be ground flush aon the back side and then punched through. The 8 that were stuck in the rear front spring perches needed to be ground, drilled, and then punched through.

got pics of my replacement floor, it is a little cut up around the rear braces and rocker, because the 1/4's were sold off the rolled sub years ago. shouldn't be too hard to patch up those areas.
some other pics of the rust issues on the 64... I ran out of battery before getting a pic of the driver floor, but it looks like the passenger, but with sheetmetal patches screwed on..

[jonzcustomshop]

new floor is a 66 so I get built in seatbelt anchors..
also in the 2nd pic check out the step on the passenger side that is suburban/panel(?) only , and does not interchange with the truck

[jonzcustomshop]

this is what happens when you use 3 layers of shag house carpet in your truck in the winter....

[jonzcustomshop]

I have a couple good long bed box sides that I intend to use to patch up the lower 1/4's, the plan is to use the driveshaft out of the 87 short step (wheelbase 117) and mount the rear in this sub 2 inches back , so that it has a 117 wheelbase instead of the 115, and make up the difference on the side with the long box wheelwells which are 3 inches longer than the sub's.. they should also look more in proportion with the 33's, or 35's (havent decided yet!)

[MikeS.]

Jon, evidently I was really lucky with my 63. You have a LOT more floor rust and body rust than I. I feel much better now seeing yours. You have your work cut out for you. Look at my gallery, you'll see how little rust I actually have.

I'm glad to see you decided to make this a 4x4, not a lot of 4x Burbs around. I'm going with 32" tires on mine.

[piratexpress1369a]

my passenger floor looks the same as yours ..when you replace your floor do you want to come do mine ??..lol

[jonzcustomshop]

such a nice 292, dosen't run great, but hooked up the gas can fuel tank, and primed the carb and it fired right up after a year+ of sitting, moved it up front under its own power, but no brakes!!! lucky I wasn't going fast
got the clip off, and pulled the motor and transmission as a unit (3 speed).

the motor/trans is going into a 51 chev hardtop that is slated for a "gasser" build, I actually might put the trailing arms and rear out of this sub in there too if this rear turns out to be a posi like I was told when I bought it.

started getting the front suspension off and looking to see how the 89 sub brackets will fit.... but more on that (and pics) when I get to it!

[ChiefRocka]

Nice progress man !!

OK, I'm not ashamed to show my rust issues now ....

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by ChiefRocka

Nice progress man !!

OK, I'm not ashamed to show my rust issues now ....

anything to help out!!
here's more:* notice that the sheetmetal screw patch over the previous rust has rusted as well!!

[jonzcustomshop]

got out today and finished pulling the 2wd front components, and mocked up some of the 4wd stuff, gonna have to remove the belhousing x member, and probably the rad core support mounts .
the core support mounts are in the way of the spring perches right now, but the perches could probably be trimmed to fit around them, and then I can re-install them later.

does anyone know the purpose of the vulcanized rubber front mount on a suburban?
how bad would it be if I switched to the steel/rubber washer style like a pickup?

[padresag]

Re rubber frt rad support mounts. suburban and panel only. I think that it more than likely has to do with stress(to allow some flex). with the panel-suburban bodies you have a straight attached body from frt to rear all in one piece. with a p/u body it stops at the back of the cab. 6 mounting points on either side for a pan-sub while only 3 on either side for a p/u body.
ron

[padresag]

Jon here are some more pics of that later 4 x4 conv into a 65 GMC panel
290 hp crate eng and nv4500 trans. this is also one panel that didn't have the insulated frt rad support mounting brackets

By rondavid at 2012-08-15

By rondavid at 2012-08-15

By rondavid at 2012-08-15

By rondavid at 2012-08-15
ron

[jonzcustomshop]

thank you! those will help alot!

[jonzcustomshop]

getting the front bolted up, using new 7/16 grade 8 bolts.

lots of measuring to find center, and get the front mounts in the right spot.

the rear are a little easier, found a factory hole that is in the right sopt, and the same place on both sides.

will have to chop a 2 inch hole in the frame rail with a hole saw, and then on the bottom front there is a spot of the frame rail that has to be straightened out on both sides (where the factory e brake comes through), I am thinking a little heat , and a bit of work with a sledge will do the trick.

[jonzcustomshop]

more done... setting the engine crossmember have to trim, and re-weld the tops of the motor mount brackets, the sway bar crossmember is kind of sitting where it fits, it lined up with the sway bar perfect, however it is 2 inches farther away from the front spring perch than it was on the 88 sub.

Anyone think there is a problem with that? could it be because of the lift?, and should I wait to place the sway bar mounts until after the engine and front clip is on??

the rear mounts went on easier than I thought they would, I had to heat the frame rail a little and massage it with a B.F.H. where the provisions for the ebrake were, but they fit nice after that.

[ChiefRocka]

Good Job !!

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

more done... setting the engine crossmember have to trim, and re-weld the tops of the motor mount brackets, the sway bar crossmember is kind of sitting where it fits, it lined up with the sway bar perfect, however it is 2 inches farther away from the front spring perch than it was on the 88 sub.

Anyone think there is a problem with that? could it be because of the lift?, and should I wait to place the sway bar mounts until after the engine and front clip is on??
the rear mounts went on easier than I thought they would, I had to heat the frame rail a little and massage it with a B.F.H. where the provisions for the ebrake were, but they fit nice after that.

any suggestions?????

[padresag]

why not just place some weight on top of the frame and see if it makes a difference
ron

[bbadfred]

Originally Posted by Jimmyg 65

I'm in for a Suburban forum.Brought another to life,

me too!! I think we need our own forum!!!!

[jonzcustomshop]

Originally Posted by padresag

why not just place some weight on top of the frame and see if it makes a difference
ron

I guess that is probably the best plan.... I am about to the point where I need to put the engine in, so I can locate the mounts for the transmission, and rear.

[padresag]

jon ; that white suburban that I told you about, the fellow emailed me and said that he had to get rid of it. if you could swing it , it would save you a ton of body work perhaps. one can't really tell unless one is up close. i do have his phone nbr
ron

[jonzcustomshop]

I wish I could swing it, but things are tight... my labor is cheap, although sometimes I wish it wasn't-haha

on the note of money, got the rear u bolts bent, for the 4 inch lift, I guess the 3/4 ton uses a thicker rear axle housing than the 1/2,which were what the u's I had were for...

$67.00! I was expecting $40.00.... (what the last set I bought cost...)

[bbadfred]

I thought I may have paid too much for my 66 but after I saw you guys floors and stuff I think I got a pretty good deal!!!

[bbadfred]

There is some bad but not much. I have one cab support thats got rust holes but is still solid. I need to scrape out the tar under the hood and see whats under it. Been too busy driving it and still need to finish small stuff on the 67 gmc before we start on the suburban!

[jonzcustomshop]

haha- just trying to help you guys out!!

yep your sub looks great, minimal amount of work to make that one solid again...