66 4x4 my sons new project

[argonaut]

Found a few more pictures. First is me realizing that with a hoist one man can assemble an entire truck by himself! The second one is me explaining my "one man, one truck" theory, and that last one has the old man "supervisor" in it off to the left.

[msgross]

looking good...

what size of slotted mags do you have, they look nice?

[argonaut]

The slotted wheels are a typical 15" x 8.5" size. I don't know the backspacing off the top of my head. I have similar ones on my 64 and don't plan to keep these on this truck. Just something to roll around on for now.

[duallyjams]

Now you have a good idea of the direction you are going in. I do the same thing, put the body together just to see it .

[66Gilbert]

This is looking good!! Looks like you cut the frame just right as the short bed seems to sit right (rear wheel positioning) and have the right distance between the cab.

[Raider Rudy]

That old man leaning against the engine hoist looks familiar

[argonaut]

Didn't do much to the truck today, just a little tinkering.

The spring perches and shock tabs I ordered for the donor 73 12-bolt came in but were for a 3-1/2" tube size rather than a 3". So I decided to go another direction and just swap over the differential, ring and pinion to replace the trashed one from in my original housing. Everything went smooth except getting the pinion out of (my Dad's) donor axle housing. After pulling the yoke i couldn't get the pinion shaft out. Felt like it the front bearing was seized in the shaft... I didn't think that the front bearing was pressed onto the pinion shaft once it was in the housing? Now I need suggestions on how to remove it.

I also threw my mismatched set of 16"s back on. These 315/75/R16 tires are too big for my taste, are too wide at least for this truck. I'm thinking more like a 255/85/R16 in a mud terrain tire.

I was also playing with the front mount brackets for the radiator support. It seems that even when the radiator support is sitting directly on the brackets with no rubber mount, it is still higher that the cab, which is on stock replacement mounts. Did the K10 trucks have taller cab mounts? That is the only way I can think to account for what is happening. From my measurements it seems that the entire cab should sit about 1/2" higher than it does. I know the 67-72 K10 trucks use taller mounts. Perhaps to 60-66 were the same but they just aren't reproduced? I'd like to know. Either way I'll just have to space up the cab.

Snapped a couple pics. Nothing much new to see. I think my next move will be to pull the body back off again and finish cleaning and painting the frame and run brake lines. I'm contemplating mounting the proportioning valve somewhere on the frame to clean up the engine compartment. I also want to pull apart the front leaf packs and replace the rear.

[C/10 King]

Originally Posted by Raider Rudy

That old man leaning against the engine hoist looks familiar

Yeah, I think his name is Feo.

[argonaut]

Left work a little early today to get a few things done on the truck. Changed my mind back about the rear axle. I'm going to use the complete 73 12-bolt unit after all. This way my Dad gets his good rear axle back in one piece.

I started re-working the 12-bolt housing from the 73 to get it ready to go under the 66. It measures to be about 2" wider overall. Looking at the wheels an tires on the truck now I don't think at an extra inch per side will hurt. If anything it will make the front and rear track widths less different.

Pulled the axles, the diff carrier, and the pinion out. These all came out nice and easily and everything looked good. So I'm a happy camper there
Then I pulled the drum brakes off. Its pretty convenient how you can pull the lines then just unbolt the backing plate and everything goes with it. Bye bye old drums! I'll be swapping the CPP rear disk brake setup from my 64 C10 onto the K10. And I'll have to get some longer studs for the rear axles.

SIDEBAR: I'm not super happy with CPP or this kit. The adapter plates were not able to "bolt on" as the kit indicated without each of the plates having to be re-machined and flycut to the correct thicknesses. I had to do this at my own expense. CPP was not willing to work with me or help in anyway when I called them. If I'd have known that I would have just measured and had my machinist make them from scratch right from the start. Anyway, I'll try not to buy anything from them going forward if I can help it. Bad customer service is a big pet peeve of mine. The end.

I also cut the spring perches and shock mounts form the axle housing since the 73 frame was wider than the 66's. I'll weld the perches and tabs from DIY4X on once they arrive. I measured about 10 degrees between the pinion angle and the spring perch angle. Seemed to be the same on the 73 and the 66 axles and that matches pretty well with the output shaft angle on the transfer case in the truck right now, so I'll stick with that. I still need to clean all the grease and dirt for the housing, repaint it and reassemble the guts.

My first goal for February is to get the frame completely finished, cleaned and painted. That means putting an additional crossmember up front to mount the sway bar from the 73. And also getting a hitch for the back. So I'm going to have to pull the body and all the suspension back off of the frame, then finish prepping it. I'm planning to spray it with satin black VHT epoxy paint. It seems to have held up well on that parts I've use it on so far.

My second goal for Feb is to rebuild and clean up the leaf springs. I need to assess all the bushings for wear, replace what is necessary, rebuild and paint the leafs, and add some thin UHMW strips as sliders.

Then in March I'll work on the getting the drivetrain all back in place and start running the brake lines. They're all going to be custom run in stainless.

[argonaut]

I also picked up some new casters for the hoist, with larger wheels. I hate it when the little ones get stuck in the concrete expansion joints all the time. I put four casters on, but the hoist still like to go in any old direction it likes. So I think I'm going to try putting fixed wheels on the front, picking end and leave just two caster on the back and see how that works.

[argonaut]

Been busy for the past month or so. Not really much progress. Just a new pair of shoes to roll around on for now.

[67chevy1series]

looking good!! i like the steelies... the mags dont look bad though, nice project keep it up!

[argonaut]

I agree. I like the steelies better but only three are matching, and one of those has a big gash in the back side. The fourth is a different type of center. And these 16" factory steelies are hard to find... I called stockton wheel but they want $175 each to build similar rims

[67chevy1series]

thats redonkulous! i didnt know that they were different and one was messed up.... yeah good call on the mags then lol

[argonaut]

I always take the pictures with the two good ones on the same side. Don't feel bad, its a Jedi mind trick.

[67chevy1series]

haha its funny you should mention jedi... i actually am a fan of starwars lol.... but yeah i know what you mean... i always take pictures of my 67's driverside because its straighter and looks better lol

[argonaut]

Its been a while since I've gotten much done on the ol' K10. Been busy with the usual work, gf, house, dog, etc, etc. And I've been working on my other project a bit:

1981 Honda CB750F is getting retrofit with more modern CBR suspension, some frame mods, etc.


But I digress...
Back to the pickup. Now that I have most of the bits and pieces I need for this pickup I pulled it all apart again. Pulled the body off. The motor trans and transfer case all came out. The axles and suspension came off. Then I really started stripping the frame.


I was cutting and chiseling rivets off all afternoon. I've gotten pretty good at it. First I take an angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel and i make three slices vertically in the top of the rivet head. Then I take a 4lb sledge and a cold chisel and pop the four slivers right off. Most of the time the remaining rivet stub can be pushed out with a little persuasion from the sledge and a big punch.

I'll pull the remaining three crossmembers off of the frame rails. Then I'll be stripping everything down of all surface rust and grease and painting it with a black epoxy paint.
I'll tell you what, this frame is pretty heavy. It took me by surprise when I went to flip it over by myself and nearly dropped the thing. I'll have to recruit my dad to help me next time.


The frame is in good shape. but I'm glad I cut off the spring hangers and body mounts because I found that these unseen areas were getting rusty. Now I' can clean all that up, seal it up and put it all back together!

[argonaut]

Thanks to my loving and caring uncle, the C/10 King, I've now got a full set (including the spare!) of 16" steelies for my pickup. They're painted brown (not rusty) and in beautiful shape. These stock wheels are only 5.5" wide, so I'm debating whether to go with a 235/85R16 tire or a slightly wider 255/85R16 tire. I think the 235/85 in a mud terrain tire will be similar to a 7.5x16 but have better on-road manners being a radial rather than bias-ply. Time will tell.

Here they are in front of my 64. The 6.00x16s are nearly as tall as my 31x10.5R15 tires.

[Raider Rudy]

I guess I can put those slot mags with the 33's on my truck huh!

[argonaut]

Don't get overly excited. The 33"s won't fit under your 2wd, trust me.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Raider Rudy]

Originally Posted by argonaut

Don't get overly excited. The 33"s won't fit under your 2wd, trust me.
Posted via Mobile Device

I meant mt 4x4!

[quadzero]

I really like where this is going, especially the work you are doing on the frame. Ideally, this is exactly what I would like to do. Now, how will you re-attach all the pieces back together, bolts or weld? Really looking forward to seeing the frame all together and painted. Keep up the great work.

[argonaut]

Thanks for the support quadzero. I'm in the process of painting the frame pieces right now. I've patched an welded up a few holes and voids on the front of the frame rails where I presume plow was attached then later cut off with a torch.

Once I'm done painting I'll be bolting everything back together with 3/8" grade 8 bolts. These fasteners will provide a stronger clamping force than the original rivets.

[DBear]

Nice truck bud.....bet the frame is gonna look awesome!

[argonaut]

Now that I've been making some progress with the frame, I've started looking toward the next area of my pickup: Springs and Axles. I was planning to rebuild the springs and hangers I have form the 66, paint add plastic sliders, etc. and then bolt in the 1/2 ton Dana 44 and 12 Bolt that I pulled from a 73 Blazer.

Then I got to thinking about how the springs use older style solid metal bushings, and the rear uses a factory 5.5" block, and that the big block plus big tires might stress the 1/2 ton axles... So I started perusing the socal craigslists for 14B FF and Dana 60 axles when I found a guy desperate to get rid of a 73 K20 longbed. It came with a Detroit Diesel 6.5 Turbo. Long story short he kept the motor and I took the rest of the truck for a few hundred bucks. Loaded the best on a tow dolly and dragged her home... (my Dad's going to think I've gone )



But I'm pretty happy because now I have:

3/4 ton axles





I know its not a Dana 60 but beggars can't be choosers, and its a start. I'm also going to put the hangers from the 73 on my 66 frame to upgrade to newer style rubber bushings and more aftermarket support for springs.

16" rims with new tires





a hydroboost setup (at least good for cores if its leaking)



a sm465-np205 setup







Unfortunately the PO cut a access hole on the left of the bellhousing for the starter on the 6.2L Diesel that used to be in there.

And there are a few minor useful things like tow hooks, steering gearbox, weird old German first aid kit, etc.









I'm planning to sell off/scrap the body in the next few weeks. The cab and the hood are pretty rusty, but the fenders, doors and bed are in decent shape. Plus I'll have my 1/2 ton Dana 44 and 12 Bolt to sell also. So I should be able to make my money back no problem.