I think I've decided on a build "theme"

[99-LS1-SS]

Thanks Frenchblue72, I sent him a PM.

[VA72C10]

Show us the rust in the floor and show the upper windshield and the tortion boxes behind the rockers...that will help us give you the best advice

tkorinek in arizona is a good guy to check with for rust free sheetmetal and just craigslist in NV, parts of Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, and Southern California. Also ebay in those areas...the guy who bought the last blazer I had actually found one from Colorado that was about 98% rust free (needed patches in outer rockers,behind both rear wheels, and some work at the rear of the bed area)

[99-LS1-SS]

Here are some pictures of the floor pan. I haven't had a chance to take the windshield out yet. I hope to do that this week.

[hgs_notes]

So far, everything you have shown is available new or used for replacement parts. The best options on the floor would be the full length inner rocker and floor section. That piece extends from the rocker towards the middle of the floor about 5". The floor pans will cover anything forward of the seat to the firewall. The floor area under the seat can be patch with regular sheetmetal as needed. Or you can cut that from most truck cabs, then just add the seat re-inforcement from the blazer floor. The windshield pillars can be cut from any truck. Outer rockers, door bottoms, etc are all available new.

So far I haven't seen anything that can't be patched up on yours. It just depends on what you want to do. Starting with a good solid tub is great, but not the easiest to find or get delivered. For inspiration, check out this build and see just how bad things can be and how far you can go in repairing what you have.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=376589

[99-LS1-SS]

I've never tried fabrication so it will be a learning experience. I am going to get a new truck floor pan and use 90% of it. I've got some door jams and torsion boxes being shipped to me not. The only other issue will be if the windshield frame is rotted. I suppose I'll learn to fabricate as I learn to weld. I'm not ready to throw in the towel on this build but, it is going to take longer than I initially thought or hoped.

[jbs70]

I'm in the same boat you are, It's going to take a long time and allot of learning on the fly. Keep posting pic's and hang in there.

[1949gmc]

Hey Brandon-

What does the rear floor look like? Is it solid in the corners by the tailgate?

[99-LS1-SS]

Ray,

Here are a few shots of the rear and bed. The back half of the truck is in surprisingly good shape.

[1949gmc]

Wow, the back half looks to be in really good shape. Pull that carpet strip up and make sure there isn't any rot under it. Make sure you don't mess it up getting it off, though. Surprising that the gate is that bad, but the floor is okay.

What do the torsion boxes look like from underneath? Are they still there?

[99-LS1-SS]

Most of the torsion boxes are there but they are rotted and have holes (and mice) in them.

[1949gmc]

Do you know what all patch pieces you're going to need when you get into the rust removal in the front floor? There's a bunch of them.

[99-LS1-SS]

I know most of them. I will get a better idea over the next week or so. My passengers side kick panel will need to be changed since they "fixed" it with a hammer. I will buy a complete floor pan and cut out the parts that I need. I have the inner and outer rockers and the torsion boxes are on order. I have both hinge side door jam pieces coming for patching what I have. The front of the drivers side quarter panel is pretty bad but I won't know how bad until I get into it. I'm buying new doors, fenders and a hood.

I'll need this part for both sides but I can't think of the name of it.

[1949gmc]

That's the A pillar patch, or front pillar patch. You'll probably need the front cab supports and then the B pillar patch pieces (rear cab floor support, lower B pillar patch, rocker box reinforcement panels).

Here are a couple of threads that have some info on the surgery you'll be performing, if you haven't seen them already:

Replacement Truck floor in a Blazer

Project: Bolt One On

My '71 Jimmy Build Thread

[99-LS1-SS]

Thanks again Ray.

[hotrodhomi]

You guys have a lot of rust over there. Is it from salted roads or..?

[99-LS1-SS]

High humidity is the main cause but, we get about 4 or 5 snows a year and they salt the heck out of the roads.
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[hgs_notes]

That tailgate is fixable. I did mine by having a strip of steel cut, then a bend to match the profile. I used SEM panel adhesive to set mine in, but it can be welded also. The ridge along the bottom is where it meets the bed floor and the area under that is only visible with the gate open. Welded repairs are great and in many cases required, but you might want to get some info on using the auto body adhesives, which the body shops all use now as well as the manufacturers. Definitely faster to do and in some areas, easier and probably longer lasting. The adhesive seals the metal and protects from future corrosion where the back side of a weld will likely rust again later. Again, something you will find in my C-10 thread below.

[99-LS1-SS]

Getting ready to place my first decent sized parts and patch panel order. Look my list over and let me know if I've missed anything.

72 Chevy Front Left Fender (I already have a right fender)
72 Powder Coated A/C Battery Tray
72 Blazer Front Door Shell X2
72 Complete Cab Floor w/Braces
Front Door Pillar (both)
72 Blazer B-Pillar Patch (both)
Kick (Cowl) Panel Lower (both)

[67cheby]

i would strongly suggest trying to find the doors and several of the other patch panels in used parts (for fitment issues) the floor i would probably by reproduction, just my 2 cents

[99-LS1-SS]

Are aftermarket doors that bad?

[67cheby]

get more opinions before you order.....i would try to find factory doors and fenders myself, i think the fitment and quality are far better, like i said just my 2 cents, get some more opinions dont just go off of mine

[1949gmc]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

get more opinions before you order.....i would try to find factory doors and fenders myself, i think the fitment and quality are far better, like i said just my 2 cents, get some more opinions dont just go off of mine

Gotta say that I agree with this. I started out with repop doors and bought used OEM's out of AZ because the door skin on the repops was pretty flimsy. Truck doors are super easy to cut down, so there's no need to look just for Blazer doors. Pretty easy to find a used fender too, from what i've seen. The inner B pillar, kick panel, door pillars and floor/braces should be okay in aftermarket- lots of people use them with success.

[99-LS1-SS]

Do your statements apply to the entire door shell or just the skin?

[67cheby]

BOTH !! it is not that hard to find nice door and fenders and they arent very expensive probably the same you would pay for the aftermarket, dont get in a hurry just search for some good parts

[99-LS1-SS]

Can you point me in a general direction so I can start to find some doors?