how about some pics of inline 6 engines

[rollin thunder]

rebuilding mine out of a 84 c10, i was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on cam upgrades.. i want something meaner than stock but idk wher to go or what to get.

[VWNate1]

I think you're in the wrong forum for this question as S-10's never had InLine 6 Cylinder engines .

I know the good people here can help you but you need to reach the Hot Rod guys , not us plodding stockers...

-Nate

Originally Posted by rollin thunder

rebuilding mine out of a 84 c10, i was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on cam upgrades.. i want something meaner than stock but idk wher to go or what to get.

[rollin thunder]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

I think you're in the wrong forum for this question as S-10's never had InLine 6 Cylinder engines .

I know the good people here can help you but you need to reach the Hot Rod guys , not us plodding stockers...

-Nate

c10 not s10 its a custom deluxe/c10 chevy shortbed and the inline six 250 was stock

[VWNate1]

OOPS ! DUH ! I really oughta not go OnLine until I've had my Coffee ! .

Sorry about that .

If it has the 250 CID thinwall , it's really easy to wake up , first and foremost , ditch the muffler ! with a long exhaust pipe to the rear bumper , it won't be loud atall ~ hard to believe I know but I used to haul in Bel Air sans muffler and I never got any tickets .

Anyways , there are multiple cams available but the basic 1 ton cam is the best for a street driven engine . ' race ' cams always make off idle performance crappy so beware before you wa$te $$ .

You can also use two or three single barrel carbys to unleash amazing power -BUT- ~ these thinwall engines don't live long when run hard or revved a lot .

For the beginning , open the spark plug gaps up to .060" and experiment with the basic timing from about 10° BTDC @ idle , then stamp on the throttle in top gear @c 35 MPH , if no ping , give it one more degree idle advance and try again ~ when you hear it ping as you stamp the throttle @ 35 MPH in top gear , stop and back it off one degree and lock it down ~ these thrifty engines are very peppy stock when tuned sharply . the " Throttle Ping Test " was part of GM Dealer / Factory training back when I was young and it really works .

Try the basic tuning bits I describe before going to Tom Langdon etc. for multi-carby intakes and headers , most exhaust headers are worthless in L6 engines and make them run worse until past 4,000 RPM's anyway .

Apparently , InLiner Tuning is a lost art but it's simple : just experiment as each engine combination needs things a little bit different .

Keep us posted .

[PanelDeland]

rollin thunder.The first thing you probably want to do is find a non-integrated head and manifolds.The integrated head is usually prone to cracking and not very performance oriented.The head intake and exhuast manis are all cast as one.If this is how yours is set up,there are better options.I'm not sure if the heads interchange.

[Nickclimbs]

this motor is in my 67 K20 but I think the motor is much newer? Please help me figuer out which motor it is and which carb so i can get an air filter on it. thanks. Anyone know how to interpret the block number? Block # is
473483
GM
Thanks, Nick

[VWNate1]

That's the later model 4 Liter one with integral cylinder head , those cracked like the devil when new , our Fleet has 10 ~ 15 trucks sitting idle for about one year when GM ran out of the original crappy castings and decided to re engineer it , none of the replacement heads ever cracked .

If you have one that runs well , fine and dandy , surely the head has been changed by now .

However , I'd not drop one thin dime on hot rodding these , just take care of it and run it until it needs rebuilding then scrap it .

[Daner]

I got my 250 done last spring. The total from the machine shop was $1117.

They cleaned everything, bored cylinders, turned crank, new comp cam, all new valve guides seats springs and valves pistons decked the head and a full engine kit. I picked it up and put it all together. Add between 300-400 in different upgrades and supplies (clutch, dizzy, vibration damper, paint, water pump) So about $1500 total.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by rollin thunder

rebuilding mine out of a 84 c10, i was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on cam upgrades.. i want something meaner than stock but idk wher to go or what to get.

I'm running a Crane 260H in a '68 292, bored .030 over, Badger pistons, stock rods stock crank, metal timing gears, Rhoads lifters, stellite valves and seats -1.84" [OEM for V8 305], Offy intake, Edelbrock 500 CFM AFB-type carb, Clifford headers, dual exhaust w/crossover, turbo mufflers, SM465 Tranny, Eaton posi in Corp 12-bolt rear @3.73:1. This is in a half-ton Orange shortbed C/10 stepside.
You want a late '60s -early '70s head [w/o integral manifold --or one from a later 292 --IIRC 292s never had the integral manifolds]. The bottom end should be OK. It will all bolt together.
Crane folded a couple of years ago, not sure if they resurfaced again, but I heard Isky still cuts cams to spec. 250 cams are different from 292s only by the placement of the fuel pump lobe. 250 cams will be easier to find.
Not sure how thin the walls are on the L6s, VW Nate's talking about. I got 250,000 miles out of my last block. But he is right about the RPM range. I find taller tires make up for the lack of high revs like the V8s put out. Over-revving an L6 will cause the harmonic balancer to walk off its mark, wobble or even cannonball out thru the radiator.
Good L6 parts sources are :
Clifford Performance: www.cliffordperformance.net
Langdon's Stovebolt Engine Company: www.stoveboltengineco.com
Inliners International: www.inliners.org

[Nickclimbs]

I am NOT a hot rodder. this is a work truck. Just trying to figuer out which year this motor is so I can get parts and keep it running. Why would the engin not be worth rebuilding if it had the replacement heads?

[ultrahd4me]

Here is a 250 i6 from a 68 I just sold.

[Daner]

Good info about integral head engines.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421910

If you are looking for cam sizes/brand go to www.inliners.org
click tech tips on the left
then click cam specs 250 series engines
That is what I used to choose my cam.

[rollin thunder]

wow okay thanks for the info VWnate1. and the exhaust for sure that was the first to go i went with 3 inch straight side pipes. So with the integrated head i shld be safe to use one? my original head is cracked so im going to buy a replacement because im not trying to make a performance engine or anything just a good running original motor with a little more peppiness than stock nothing major, im not a racer haha and i will do those tuning tricks THANKS!!

[67anthony]

I have a 67 gmc with a 292 4 speed thinking about putting a 700 r in it is anybody have this sit up

[VWNate1]

Originally Posted by Nickclimbs

I am NOT a hot rodder. this is a work truck. Just trying to figuer out which year this motor is so I can get parts and keep it running. Why would the engin not be worth rebuilding if it had the replacement heads?

Because you can always find a good running non integral head 250 for $150 or so .

Ergo , the integral engines are not worth the $700 ~ $2,000 necessary to do a full rebuild .

If the cylinders are not tapered you can always replace the worn out pistons and slip in new bearing shells , do the valves & guides , later model integral head engines with the EGR valve already have stellite seats & other unleaded fuel upgrades from the factory .

These are *very* thinwall cylinders by design , back when they were new , core shift in manufacturing meant the side of the cylinder occasionally cracked and fell into the water jacket as you were driving along , not racing or pulling 3 tons up a hill.......

You had to be there to understand I guess

As I said , they're very good engines , light and high horsepower plus torquey little monsters as all InLine engines tend to be , the longer the stroke , the torquier they are .

As long as you take middling care of it (clean oil !) it'll last & last and every 20 years or 100,000 miles or so you simply overhaul it , not rebuild it .

These make the best work rigs unless you need to race 'round with loads , that's not real working .


(I'm an old geezer so please pardon my atrocious spelling)

[Nickclimbs]

This motor sounds a bit like a junkyard but it runs. Where do I find an older pre integral head 250 or 292?
thanks, Nick

[RichardJ]

The integrated head with the Pulsair emission crap hanging all over it and a 2bbl carb appeared in 1979 and they began calling it a 4.1 lt engine. They started calling the 292 a 4.8 engine but it did not have the pulsair head.

All 194, 230, 250 and 292 are considered thin wall casting. In Leo Santucci's book, he states that "no particular year or series is strucurally superior, but some racers prefer the '63-71 blocks". That's good enough for me.
The thin wall casting means that if you are boring out close to .060" or more you must check for core shift and that means on any block.

If you choose to change to an earlier head you can use any 230, 250 or 292 head, '63 to '78. The '60s heads will have large spark plugs with gaskets and the later '70s have the smaller tapered seat plugs. Some of the '70s heads will have an extra hole above each exhaust port for AIR smog pump. Plug the hole with a bolt(s) and all the heads will fit and peform the same.
All the factory manifolds for these heads are for 1 bbl carb. You will need an exhaust manifold to fit this head.
There are many aftermarket intake and exhaust manifolds for these heads.
There are no aftermarket parts for the integrated head.

[VWNate1]

You're too far away dangit ! .

To - day I found a 1982 with the complete 4.1L 6 Banger , even the air cleaner is there ~ the last time I bought an engine there , it was $250 + tax out the door including everything fan to flywheel .

-Nate

Originally Posted by rollin thunder

wow okay thanks for the info VWnate1. and the exhaust for sure that was the first to go i went with 3 inch straight side pipes. So with the integrated head i shld be safe to use one? my original head is cracked so im going to buy a replacement because im not trying to make a performance engine or anything just a good running original motor with a little more peppiness than stock nothing major, im not a racer haha and i will do those tuning tricks THANKS!!

[rollin thunder]

Originally Posted by VWNate1

You're too far away dangit ! .

To - day I found a 1982 with the complete 4.1L 6 Banger , even the air cleaner is there ~ the last time I bought an engine there , it was $250 + tax out the door including everything fan to flywheel .

-Nate

dang, if only huh?? you don`t come across anything like that round here all these "good ole boys" trash em and put in v blocks and all kinds of offroading goodies and what not haha so inlines and stock parts don`t last long and go straight to crush or scrapped... but i will say i am at home in chevy country here

[Mayo]

I have a 292 in my 68 but it has tapered seat spark plugs in it. I know the head was rebuilt before I bought the truck, so that means it has a later model head?
Posted via Mobile Device

[VWNate1]

Actually , this means ther's one near you they're dying to be rid of ,you just have togo find it ~ .

I was born & raised a poor boy and learned early on to ' beat the bushes ' .

Here in La La Land it's Hot Rod Central yet there are still L6 engines lying around , tossed behind garages , etc. , etc.

As I'm a dedicated Inliner , my eyes are always open , it used to be I couldn't ever get any interest in the used Inline engines I'd find but these days ($4.00 fuel) more and more folks wake up to the basic facts of life .

-Nate

Originally Posted by rollin thunder

dang, if only huh?? you don`t come across anything like that round here all these "good ole boys" trash em and put in v blocks and all kinds of offroading goodies and what not haha so inlines and stock parts don`t last long and go straight to crush or scrapped... but i will say i am at home in chevy country here

[rollin thunder]

got the L6 tore down, and i have a pretty good wish list, does anyone know or have a pic of what the L6s looked like stock in 84? color wise id like it to look as stock as possible

[VWNate1]

4.1 L I6 was semi gloss black on all of our Municipal rigs...

We had quite a few of them .

[TJ's Chevy]

Not trying to intrude, but though I would put mine in cause it's a 6!

[Jimbabwe]

Here's an updated pic of mine.