Project: 1966 Stepside LWB

[Captainfab]

My sister and her boyfriend live in Bellevue also. He just recently quit working for that same company.

I would say it is time to pull the head and have a look.

Originally Posted by b2948kevin

I picked up the Factory Service manuals. I got the 1963 as well as the 1966 supplement. I couldn't find a Haynes or a Chilton manual for this year. If you know of one, I'd be interested.

I saw your casting # thread. Looks like you are in good hands with guys that know a lot more than I do.

Also, I work an IT job also. I am a network engineer/PM for the world's largest software company.

[hex7f7f7f]

I've never worked for them, but I've worked with their products

Got a question about the paint in the cab and fuel tank. How many coats did it take to do that? It came out really nice. My cab looks like someone let their kid go nuts with half a can of yellow paint so I need to do something about that.

[b2948kevin]

Working on getting the head off right now. Those bolts are tight! I need a breaker bar. Any tips?

Also, I think I put like 2 coats on. Nothing crazy, and it looks pretty dang good for the little effort that I put into it.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, I got a breaker bar and took care of business. I pulled the head and I have some questions answered and some remaining. Let's start with the pics.

Can anyone spot the issue in the pic of the head? Be honest...

[b2948kevin]

Here are some close up pics of the bottom of the head. Sorry some of them came out dark. From what I can tell, all but #3 look to be in similar shape. #3 obviously has a big issue with the valve, which is why this cylinder wasn't holding compression.

[J.Cagle]

To bad you are so far aways. I'd give you the straight six I'm pulling outta my truck.

[b2948kevin]

Here is the block and cylinders starting from #6 (nearest the cab) to #1, showing 2 at a time.

Observations:
Cyl #3 isn't as dark or carbon crusted as the others, I suppose due to not firing.
Cyl #1 and #2 have damage on the top of the piston. #1 is worse than #2.
All of the pistons seem to rotate as expected, so no broken wrist pins.
There is a decent amount of corrosion that can be seen in the cooling passages. How big of an issue is this?
Cyl wall #4 has a vertical groove that I can feel with my finger. It's not super deep, but it's there for sure. All of the other cylinders feel pretty smooth all around.

[b2948kevin]

J. Cagle, that is a bummer! I am sure in need of one right now.

[b2948kevin]

Here is the damage on the top of piston #1 and the vertical groove in the cylinder wall of #4.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, with this said, what are your recommendations? I know I will need to get a gauge to measure tolerances, but is this going to be worth the hastle, or should I start looking for another block?

What will machining on the head and block cost me approx?

Do you think that the head is usable? The #3 valve is toast, but is the valve seat replaceable, or does it look like it's affecting more than the seat to you?

[Captainfab]

That seat on #3 exhaust should be able to be replaced. I guess it depends on what your budget is and how quick you need to get the truck running and driving. I've not built a I6, but I would imagine it would cost $1000.00+ to do it right. You might check around your area and see if you can find another I6 that is running.

[hex7f7f7f]

If you're looking at replacing, I saw this ad earlier today. $375 for the whole thing. Says the motor's running.

[b2948kevin]

Captain, do you mean 1k for just the machining work, or for the machining, rebuild kit, etc?

I see rebuild kits for $450, and I got quoted $1300 for a reconditioned engine with a good warranty. I don't know what machining will cost, but I will be calling around tomorrow to find out. I will also be calling some wrecking yards to find some other options. I think at this point, I should be considering all of my options, including a 350 swap, etc.
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[b2948kevin]

Thanks for the ad, Hex! I shot off an email this morning to the guy.

I just talked to White Side Truck Parts in Snohomish, WA. They have 2 of these in their engine room. He said that they came out of trucks, so they are most likely 250s, and not 230s, but there's not a lot of easy ways to tell. I know this well...

They were running motors when they were pulled a year or two ago. My pick for $325.

[b2948kevin]

I pulled the engine block out today. It came pretty easily, but I'm stuck on what I will put in to replace it. I talked to the machine shop and they said that barebones, I'm looking at $500-900 in machining alone, which most likely means that it will be closer to 900. Add a $450 rebuild kit to that and I'm into this as much as I can get a reconditioned engine with a warranty for.

I am looking at a Chevy 350 tomorrow. $275 for the whole thing. $350 for the engine and a turbo 400 trans. 47k original miles on it. Is this a good deal?

Also, I would like to stay manual on the transmission. What are my good trans options for staying manual with a 350?

[pdxhall]

I've got a 250 for sale in the "for sale' section for $175. I drove the truck into my garage and pulled the engine. It has been stored inside on the engine stand ever since. Complete with all brackets, air cleaner, carb, etc. if you are willing to drive to Portland.

[pdxhall]

I was wondering, also, if you still have the bucket seats you pulled out of the truck?

[Captainfab]

A small block (which a 350 is) will bolt right in where the 250 was. No need to change the trans, bellhousing , etc. I believe you can even use the flywheel from the 250.

[b2948kevin]

PDX, looks like a nice engine, but I can't make it down to Portland, unfortunately. If you were local, done deal. Also, I sold the seats already. Sorry.

I think I am going to go with a 350 on this one. CaptainFab's advice, and the fact that I know that I want to end up with a 350 in here anyways are pushing me this way. I was originally thinking of staying straight 6 to avoid complication, but I think that I'm there already.

I have a meeting scheduled to look at a fresh 350 pull tomorrow afternoon.

[b2948kevin]

Also, what manual transmission options do I have with the 350? I really want to stay with a manual tranny, it's a nostalgia thing.

I have the Granny 4 Speed right now, but is there something manual with an overdrive gear? I'd like something that can compliment the added power.

[Captainfab]

There are a few options for a OD manual trans. There are the T5, the NV3500, the NV4500, and the T56 6 speed. The first two are border line for use behind a 350 with their 'rating'. However there are many guys running them behind 350's. The NV4500 is more like your current 4 speed, just with a 5th gear. The T56 is rated for the torque, but it would not be one I would recommend if you are going to use your truck as a truck. Then there is the aftermarket transmissions.

Switching to either of these can be a bit involved. I would suggest just staying with your SM420 4 speed, and get an engine in there and driving first. Then you can do some research and decide which trans you want, develop a game plan, and collect the parts for the swap. Just my .02

[smilts60]

Hey awesome build so far. All of that on the rocker's and floor pans are really gonna come in handy to me here in the next few weeks. Im starting on my 1960 lwb stepside. I think you made the right choice on the 350.

[b2948kevin]

Captain, I thought about this overnight and I think that's great advice. Thanks for letting me know what the trans options are. I've read up a bunch on swapping all of these out, and it seems that the NV4500 is about the best one for the job, but the T5 is the more readily available one.

For now, I am going to focus on engine. The goal is to get this driving, and that is the shortest path. I will do additional research and look for some transmissions while I am working on this, and tackle that a little later down the road.

That said, I bought a used SBC 350 today. It has all of the accessories, less the Carb, and I think it will be perfect. It even has a PS pump on it.

Couple questions-
I can use the flywheel off of the 250, right?
What motor mounts do I need? Just some plain stock 350 motor mounts?
Will I need to move the perches at all, or are they in the correct location already?
Will the 350 mount right up to the Granny 4 speed tranny? Am I missing anything?

[b2948kevin]

Thanks Smilts, let me know if you have questions on the rockers. This was a tough job.

Also, the casting number on the block is 14101148, which a google search indicates 86-94 year 350, 4 bolt main with a 1 piece rear main seal.

[Captainfab]

In light of the engine being a one piece rear main seal, you will not be able to use your 250's flywheel. You will need to get one from a one piece rear main seal small block. Sorry I forgot to mention that possibility in my earlier post. If you want to re-use your original starter, you will want to get a flywheel for the one piece that is the same diamete and the same tooth count.

The motor mount brackets do not need to be moved for the small block. You can actually use the motor mounts themselves from the 250. You will just need to remove the bracket that adapts them to the I6 engine. Or if you just want to get new ones that aren't that much $$. Just ask for motor mounts for a '63-'72 truck with a 283,307,327, or 350 engine. I believe the part number is 2882 or something like that.


That 350 will bolt right up to the same bell housing that the 250 was bolted to. You just need the newer flywheel, a new pilot bushing, a new clutch, and throwout bearing, and bolt it up.

Originally Posted by b2948kevin

Also, the casting number on the block is 14101148, which a google search indicates 86-94 year 350, 4 bolt main with a 1 piece rear main seal.