Any pictures of Stepsides with Coys C5?

[RdoubleU]

SO using the Wheelrite as suggested I am coming up with some conflicting numbers so I have asked the help of Keith with his vast knowledge on these type things

And I am going to post some pictures to show how I am setting the Wheelrite and what effect it is giving me on the clearance of the lower control arm.

I am measuring for 20x8" rims:

The suggested backspacing is 5" BS, so I set the wheelrite at these exact measurements. and the space between the wheelrite edges is 8" measured with a tape measure

[RdoubleU]

Next I played with the tool and came up with 4.25" BS that gave more clearance front and rear, with the Rim width set at 8":

[RdoubleU]

Keith mentioned I should set the Wheelrite at 9" because a Wheels are measured from the tire's bead surface not the outside lip. I would think the purpose of the tool would account for this but setting the tool at 9" read at 9" on a tape measure from peak to peak on the tool:So to give it a shot heres what I got

[RdoubleU]

I asked Keith to take a look at the above and offer his thoughts

Also CC69rat I know you used this tool as well so curious to how you set it to measure for your wheels - since you have 8.5" did you set it at 8.5" or 9.5"?

Thanks Guys

[lolife99]

I can't tell from your pics.
I think I could measure easier with a straight edge and a tape measure.
I can't see how you have the Wheelrite bolted together.
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[RdoubleU]

Here's some overall tool shots: assembled as shown and then bolted to the rotor as in the demo videos

Backspacing is on the side closest to the camera, and wheel width on the farthest edge

[CC69Rat]

Hey -- I think I see what's going on..

I think (not 100% sure) you might be looking at the wheel backspacing measurement / mark thing on the top of the WR as the width or vise versa. (ex. 8" of backspacing on the wheel)

Does this help?

[RdoubleU]

Hmm - when I set the tool at 8" of overall width on the back edge as you pictured it looks like the below picture on the scale

And when I measure the length of the tool when set on #8 width it = 8" on a tape measure

So I believe that is right?

[CC69Rat]

So, with the WR in that position you're seeing an 8" wheel with 4.25" BS, correct?

[RdoubleU]

Correct and it gave me the improved clearance front and rear of the control arm

But Keith mentioned I should be setting the WR at 9" to account for the total width of the rim, not just the inner width (8") between the flanges

Originally Posted by RdoubleU

Next I played with the tool and came up with 4.25" BS that gave more clearance front and rear, with the Rim width set at 8":

[RdoubleU]

Clearance Pictures in post #52: 4.25" BS Rim width set at 8"

[CC69Rat]

Keith is right, but you have to consider too that the overall width of the tool will compensate for the additional width of the wheel bead.

What I'm saying is the 8" measurement (you can confirm with a tape) is from inside to inside of the bead of the tool. Keith's thinking is the overall width of the wheel from edge to edge and he's absolutely right .. but .. the width of the tool simulates this additional.

My thinking is the tool width (8" in this example) is the actual width of your wheel, and the actual width of the tool gives you that added inch of clearance visually. Ex. the edge of the tool is the actual width of your wheel overall. (not bead to bead)

Actual Width of the wheel, edge to edge = 9
Width of the bead to bead and what you'd order = 8
Tool measures bead to bead.

[CC69Rat]

Forgot to mention, make sure you bolt the WR to your spindle and turn the wheel lock to lock, .. and spin the wheel around with the tire simulator to make sure you're not going to have rubbing problems. You have AM control arms too so your measurements will be slightly different than what you may have seen other people using.

I have 84 front Kmember on my 68 with F44 HD brakes (1.25") and McGaughy's spindles. Mine measured to 8.5" wide and 5.5" BS up front.

Also, you want to make sure you have it at ride height. The front end level side to side and a jack under the LCA. (It looks like you have it like this .. just making sure)

[RdoubleU]

This is my concept and thinking of the tool function as well.

I did measure from inside to inside of the bead of the tool and it = 8"

So based on setting it at 8" and getting the backspace #'s I am

I am wondering why I am getting #'s so far off from what everyone else is getting, this is what has caused my doubt

For a 8" wheel I should be in the 5" BS range but am at 4.25" to safely clear inside

For a 8.5" Wheel I am at 4.5" BS vs the recommended 5.25-5.5" BS (which is a whole 1" off)

You can see how close the tool is to rubbing the Control Arm at the recommended backspaces

For the Rear I came up with 4.5" BS on a 8.5" wheel, and to set in the same position it would need to be 4.25" on a 8" - which seems to be in-line with the stepside 4.5-4.75" recommendations on a early housing

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

Keith is right, but you have to consider too that the overall width of the tool will compensate for the additional width of the wheel bead.

What I'm saying is the 8" measurement (you can confirm with a tape) is from inside to inside of the bead of the tool. Keith's thinking is the overall width of the wheel from edge to edge and he's absolutely right .. but .. the width of the tool simulates this additional.

My thinking is the tool width (8" in this example) is the actual width of your wheel, and the actual width of the tool gives you that added inch of clearance visually. Ex. the edge of the tool is the actual width of your wheel overall. (not bead to bead)

Tool measures bead to bead.

[lolife99]

Just so I understand,...
Backspace is from the wheel mounting surface to the inside edge of the wheel.
Not the fenderside of outside edge.
I'm thinking you have this backwards.
Like CC's picture.

This is frustrating for me because I'm trying to answer with my iPhone because my laptop took a crap.
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[lolife99]

The picture RdoubleU posted,... You said the edge closest to the camera is the backspace. This is wrong.
That's the outer edge of the wheel.
Backspace is measured on the other side of the tool.
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[RdoubleU]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The picture RdoubleU posted,... You said the edge closest to the camera is the backspace. This is wrong.
That's the outer edge of the wheel.
Backspace is measured on the other side of the tool.
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Keith - I have the tool setup like CC's markings on my picture

My bad - I know what you are saying: By edge, I meant side as in the # markings scale not the farthest edge of the tool or the outer edge of the wheel as you mentioned

So the side closest to camera would have been a better term than edge

[CC69Rat]

You have aftermarket UCA / LCA so your clearance (backspacing) could likely be .75+ different than what others run with stock control arms. I'm not sure if you have modular spindles (?) so thos could also be throwing the numbers off vs. the measurements on stock LCS / drop spindles. The tool doesn't lie .. I think you're on it with 4.25" BS. The key here is to remember you have a 20" hoop on your wheel. You have to spin it to find the perfect clearance and also, don't forget the bead roll of your tire. that's what the flexible wire is for.

In the rear, be sure to measure both sides. Your track bar might be slightly off too (the rear end housing might be slightly off center under the truck) .5" shifted to the right for example would reflect in the BS measurements.

[RdoubleU]

My control arms are the 1" forward mod - so would that possibly be what is causing the contact of the wheel at a deeper backspace
- the 1” forward is casing the rim radius to be hitting at a different position in the control arm than would a stock control arm that is centered on the wheel
- No modular spindles , just CPP drop spindles

In the rear I triple checked the centering of the axle and did measure both sides
- came up with 4.5" BS on a 8.5" wheel to have the wheel sit centered in the wheel well and tiny bit more clearance to the inside bedside
• I marked 8.5” with 4.5 as we measured on a piece of paper
• And to have it sit in the same position on the paper on a 8” wheel equaled a 4.25” backspace to split the difference

[CC69Rat]

I have 8.5" on the rear with 4.75" BS and a 255/45/20.
an 8.5 with 4.25 BS concerns me a bit. .. I think it would rub the outer wheel lips. Mine is TIGHT.

BUT .. on an 8" wheel, essentially a 4.25 BS would be exactly like mine. (I'd just have .5" more wheel on the backside)

What size tires were you looking at for the rear?

[RdoubleU]

8" for the rear as well, American Racing only offers the 8" or 9.5" wheel

so this is where I came up with the 4.25" for the rear

I measured out a 8.5" and either 4.5-4.75" would work but chose 4.5" to give me more room on the inner bedside.
- and then again with the 8" wheel - 4.25" BS would match the same placement

[RdoubleU]

I may have figured out the culprit on the front

I am using these spindles : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485760

And there is some debate about the 3/4" narrower track width they give you, but it seems that this would work out to be true

If trying to match Nates (72blackbeauty) 5.5" BS on a 8.5" rim then the goal would be 5" on a 8" rim

So with a 3/4" narrow trackwidth - shave off the .75" from the 5" and you come up with the 4.25" I am seeing on the tool for the front

Make sense?

[lolife99]

Can you post a picture of your a-arm spindle assembly.
I assume the lower control arm has no steering stop?

No matter what you come up with,... You want the tire to be under the fender far enough so that no contact with the fender is made at ride height AND under suspension compression.
Is this a static drop or air ride?
Air ride will require more bs to tuck the tire.

This thread is making me crazy. Ha.
I wish I could look at your truck in person and measure it myself.
I don't understand where the number differences are.
Using an actual wheel with a known bs could also help.
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[lolife99]

I'm not sure the shape of the Wheelrite tool is a direct comparison to the shape of the wheel lip.
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[RdoubleU]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Can you post a picture of your a-arm spindle assembly.
I assume the lower control arm has no steering stop?

No matter what you come up with,... You want the tire to be under the fender far enough so that no contact with the fender is made at ride height AND under suspension compression.
Is this a static drop or air ride?
Air ride will require more bs to tuck the tire.

This thread is making me crazy. Ha.
I wish I could look at your truck in person and measure it myself.
I don't understand where the number differences are.
Using an actual wheel with a known bs could also help.
Posted via Mobile Device

Correct - the control arm has no steering stop

Static drop

Whats the measurement from the fender lip to the tire? I could check to see where the tool is in relation to that at different settings