Attempt/Mistake #2

[El Campo]

While I was in there I welded around the perimeter of the front crossmember. Have always had a problem of rust creeping out from between the two pancaked pieces. That is what the weld is around the crossmember. Also finished boxing in front of the crossmember. I drilled holes so that will be able to access the bolts for the steering gear and idler arm. Still need to drill one more hole for the AN fuel line to come out of which is tentatively immediately behind the two holes on the passenger frame rail. I removed the cutout in the passenger side of frame (for the oil filter on I6 trucks I believe) since I had no use for it and the engine fits good without it. That was a PITA because could not get it to bend the way I wanted and had to make multiple relief cuts and weld in low areas etc. I love my Miller 252

[El Campo]

Another problem that I had was that Hooker Super Competition headers that I bought sit so high up in the frame (for full length headers, don't sit as high as the shortys that a lot of guys are running) that they interfere with the parking brake cable. The cable tried to sit on top of the header and I did not want that rattling and getting hot all the time. I am over the days of having a barely legal vehicle that you hold your breath every time you take to get inspected so I have to have park brake. Decided that my best bet was to move the entire through frame mounting part up 1.5 inches to prevent this. The wiring harness that goes to the rear of the truck is going to drop down through that hole that is on top of the frame rail (will obviously put grommet in it) and will be secured below where the park brake cable goes through frame.

[El Campo]

Since the frame is boxed had to drill a hole on the inside of frame for the cable to go through. Drilled hole at the wrong place and the cable rubbed on the top of the hole! Good thing I used a hole saw and kept the piece that was cut out. Second time was good and cable goes dead center now. Didn't get a picture of it yet. On the passenger side instead of having that rod that goes through the passenger frame rail I am thinking that I will just weld a little piece onto the transmission crossmember. Should accomplish the same thing I believe.

[El Campo]

So I am now 99 percent done with the metal work on the frame so I have a few pictures of it. Ran out of gas so I need to get some more and have about 3 short welds to do with that and then off to get blasted!

[El Campo]

My new headers were nearly touching the nuts on the cross shafts on my '75 A arms so I bought a set of 67 ones off of MrDana60 on here. They are significantly narrower than the '75 and should make all my clearances much more pleasing. Plus I did not like how close the steering shaft was to the big washer that was immediately inboard of the cross shaft nut. Then I got tools in the mail. I like tools. A lot. After much deliberation and research (and frustration with the Rigid 345 as it will not flare stainless worth a darn and I broke my die on the second flare) I bought the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. Got it with the 45 degree double inverted flare dies as well as the 37 degree single and double flares so I can do some stuff with AN fittings that I have been toying with. This thing is amazing and is probably even worth the 350 dollar price tag.

[El Campo]

Got the rest of the emergency brake system finished up. Since I boxed in the frame had to put new loops for the cable to run through and pull against. I used chain links that I welded in the stock location. The one that is welded under the tailshaft of the transmission is the only one that I am not sure if is quite correct but I think that it is. Welded the rod to the transmission crossmember on the passenger side. Hope this is not a problem. It is in the stock location. And after test fitting found out I drilled the hole in the driver's side wrong AGAIN. So welded it back up and redrilled for the third time. THINK that it is right this time finally. Sorry I only have one picture. Also welded a tow hook onto the bottom of the front crossmember. Hate never having anywhere to hook onto when things go bad and truck dies. Also when I bottomed out the rear suspension my panhard bar mount from Early Classic Industries tried to hit right behind my C notch. Since it had two holes drilled one for less than 6 inch drops and one for 6 inch and more I cut the bracket down to eliminate the problem since I never plan to have less than 6 inches of drop.

[El Campo]

Started taking apart my new to me A arms that I bought off of a member here on the forum. The one side had good grease zerks and the bushings looked brand new. On the other side though the zerks were broken off and the cross shaft was worn down as well as the screw in caps. Grease makes a BIG difference! Will be putting new stainless zerks in so this will never be an issue again. Still was a good deal that I got on the A arms though

[El Campo]

Previously the fuel system (filter and electric pump) was underneath the bed (16 gallon fuel cell was mounted inside the bed). I want to run the exhaust out of the back of the truck if at all possible and the filter and pump were both exactly where I needed them to NOT be. Plus I really did not like them so close to the driveshaft spinning at a million miles per hour. So decided to put them on the outside of the frame rail. Built a guard around the filter since it was closest to the tire in case I shred a tire off that it does not rip the entire fuel system loose and burn the truck to the down (possible with me in it still). The pump should be safe as it is far enough forward that the tire would have to make its way through the guard as well as the sway bar mount. Pump is still within 3 feet of the pump which is acceptable from what I have heard. Then the AN hose will be inside the frame rail. Holes are drilled every 1.5 feet with T clamps from Made4You holding it away from the frame. Shouldn't be touching metal anywhere if I did it right. Obviously will be grommets where the hose goes through the frame.

[El Campo]

And here are the access holes. Drilled the big holes with hole saw and then smaller holes on the outboard side of the frame rail for the clamp bolts to go through. Will then Loctite the nuts on the outside so they do not vibrate loose. In front of the crossmember is where the hose will exit and go to fuel regulator. I used plumb bobs (one of my favorite tools) to find the center of my big holes so could drill the smaller mounting holes at correct place.

[El Campo]

Finally got my paint in that I ordered. Got the SPI epoxy primer and then ordered Pro Spray single stage urethane. Got a gallon of Jet Black and then a quart of the 96 and up hugger orange. I got the newer hugger orange because they said it had more pigment than the older one and would stay brighter longer. For those of you who do not know this brand of paint is from the UK and a lot of people seem to really like it. Pictures do not do it justice!

[El Campo]

Got a few other parts in too. Was going to keep my old mufflers but got an absolutely SCREAMING deal on these Flowmaster Super 44s (and they were in stainless) so couldn't pass that up. Got Energy Suspension tie rod boot covers for the whole front end, if anyone wants to know the part numbers that fit let me know I have them here. Ordered a Moog cross shaft but the holes were too big so I think they sent me the wrong one. Have to see if I can exchange for the right one. Got some assorted bolts and nuts from Totally Stainless, those people are awesome!

[El Campo]

Have been busy so hadn't worked on truck for a while. This weekend I got the stainless brake lines all made and routed. I ran them on top of the driver's rail instead of the factory location. Every one of the 3 lines is one continuous line, not a splice anywhere. Let me know what you all think. I wanted it protected from exhaust and rocks etc so that is why I routed it there. Used Made4You T clamps for it as I did not want the lines rubbing against my fresh paint. Expensive but they prevent the line from touching metal ANYWHERE. Had to narrow the front bed mount to allow the brake line to be straight and not rub. The Mastercool was amazing also by the way if anyone is thinking of purchasing one. Every single flare was textbook perfect on the first try.

[El Campo]

Finally got all my ducks lined up in a row and got frame and the rest of my chassis parts sandblasted. Took 1500 pounds of number 5 sand. Now the frame is at the paint shop getting sprayed as we speak. I really wanted stainless grade 8 bolts everywhere but they are SUPER expensive so I welded these nuts on to this plate and blasted and am going to paint these bolts before I install them.

[mcbassin]

Looks like another nice project. Subscribing.

[NewType72]

Can't wait to see how the cab turns out awesome start I love seeing all the new parts it's like christmas haha

[Tinkermc]

looks so very nice, keep up the good work

[El Campo]

Had a major setback. So the paint shop that I took frame into is one I have done business with for years. I know the owner personally. Well he uses DuPont and is very close minded to anything else. I EXPLICITLY told him that I wanted him to use the Southern Polyurethane epoxy primer and he had previously agreed. Well I hadn't heard from him so I called him today. He tells me " I sprayed Veraprime (DuPont) primer on it and I am going to spray the epoxy over it". The problem is that you may as well not be using epoxy primer if you are doing that!!! I got this immediate sick feeling inside and called SPI. They told me that you "can" use epoxy over Veraprime but you just totally eliminated the corrosion resistance that epoxy affords you. They said that I need to get that "acid etch sh*t" off of there and spray epoxy straight on bare metal. ALL BECAUSE PEOPLE THINK THEY KNOW EVERYTHING AND ARE TOO HARDHEADED TO LISTEN TO THE CUSTOMER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So they told me I need to wipe the frame down with laquer thinner and try to get the primer off and then sand it with some 80 grit. So now I am back to square -1. I am really PO as you can imagine.

[litew8]

I'm no expert but I think you're over reacting.
You don't think Veraprime has good corrosion resistance properties?

[mcbassin]

Too bad about the mix up at the paint shop. I'm sure it will be fine the way it is. You that etch prime has been used for years. It may not be as durable as the epoxy but it should provide rust protection if you top coat it with some good paint. You can always try to strip it like you mentioned with the lacquer thinner.

[litew8]

I think that DuPont etch primer should be covered with another primer. We used DuPont Urethane on top. If SPI says it will be "fine" to use their Epoxy on top of DuPont's etch primer - that's what I'd do (but the etch primer does need covered within a certain amount of time). It'll adhere fine to to the etch primer. No need to go through all that extra work. Etch (especially DuPont's) is used by MANY today, it's a proven, effective product.

[El Campo]

The reason I really wanted to use the epoxy was because SPI tech told me that etch primer never fully cures. Their evidence is that you can go wipe years old etch primer with laquer thinner and it will come off. They say it never fully cures an therefore stays semi permeable. Just irritated that I spent all the extra money to do this right and then it all got scoffed at. Are you all suggesting to just use the old school technology and spray my single stage urethane over the etch primer?
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[litew8]

I said we used a DuPont 2K Urethane over the top of the DuPont etching primer. If SPI says that their Epoxy is safe to use on top of the DuPont etching, then it's no big deal. The DuPont etching primer needs covered. The self etching primer chemically alters the surface of the steel, I can't speak for epoxy primer, but I think it just has good sticking properties. Your body man knows what he's doing. And your SPI salesman just wants to make a buck. Call SPI back and speak with someone else who isn't into bashing products... make sure their epoxy is safe to use on top of DuPon't self etch primer.

If this is what he used, note the far right info:


If it's been over 16hrs since he sprayed the etch, you may be screwed anyways.

[El Campo]

Aww dang. Was thinking about just rolling with the Variprime. I know NOTHING about paint except the bad experiences that I have had with some of it (that is why I am gun shy, just had a bunch of crap happen for some reason). I only "know" what I read from experts and so called experts. I know that Dupont makes fine products, heck that is what the bike in my profile pic is sprayed with . So that everyone knows where I get my ideas from I cut and pasted this from the SPI website written by Barry Kives, president of SPI (considered to be one of the finest men in the business by many) Note the 4th starred point:


What every new painter must read!
As some of you know I get 30-100+ calls a day for tech help and a lot of these calls are from shops that don’t even use SPI and usually the rep from the paint company has just left and expounded his brilliance that you may have done something wrong. “You think?”

My idea here is some of the highlights of this week, so a newer painter can read and get off to a good start that is why there are no explanations, just keep it simple.


*Never use a rust converter of any kind. NO MATTER WHAT IT IS.
*Never clean metal or paint with lacquer thinner.
*Never use a metal prep UNLESS you are fully aware of how to neutralize properly.
*Never use an acid etch primer, unless you are doing used car work for a dealer or rental car work.
*Never even look at an aerosol can of primer.
*Never Soda blast UNLESS you fully understand how to neutralize it! Call us first so we can make sure you do it the right way.
*Never leave the top off an activator can any longer then it takes to pour it.
*Never store an activator in a refrigerator.
*Never use the by eye or glug method when mixing activators, use a measuring stick or a painters pail.
*Never try and fill an imperfection with a base coat.
*Never try to fill fish-eyes, if fish-eyes start, then stop.
*Never think a faster reducer in base is faster, use correct grade.
*Never wet floor if you live south of Mason Dixon line.
*Never mix more primer then can spray in 20 minutes.
*Then clean gun before mixing more to be safe.
*Before spraying check gun for spraying and adjustments, check air supply for water and air pressure.
*Never use a major’s low end base line, it is not cheaper and the potential for problems outweigh any savings

Hmmm what to do now!!! Thanks to everyone for their input by the way, I really appreciate it!

[litew8]

I think he means never to use an acid etch primer "alone" or something to that effect.
There are different types from different companies. As shown above, DuPont's says to "prime or seal",
that's because the etch primer alone is not sufficient and moisture will get in if not covered.

That's about all I know.

[67cheby]

looking good !