1969 K10 restoration in NH

[jtaylor]

Looking for tire recommendations... I'll post a pic of the rally wheels I have. Need to get my new frame rolling asap and off the ground. I don't plan to drop or raise the truck, I like the stock suspension.
I'm just unsure which tire size is best, seem to get mixed reviews on posts I've pulled up. I had been thinking 235-75-15...

[DARIO1]

I have 235-75-15's on my Blazer with the stock rally wheels and they have been successful in mud, snow, climbs and it is not an aggressive tread or anything special. It gets the job done getting me to some of the back woods and ponds. Are you going to keep Rally wheels or get a different wheel? Undecided?

[jtaylor]

Thanks, I like the look of the rally wheels... I picked up the set locally real cheap, so I'll be cleaning and painting them to use. Might just get different hubs, I like the Bowtie chevy ones..

[no moa]

hey jtaylor, did you need a whole bed? I just got an 8ft bed, little to no rust, but it needs dent work. I couldn't remember if you had a good complete bed or not.

I know you were getting a floor from Navyswipe

[jtaylor]

I will eventually, but money is going into tires, chassis parts and new heads for the 350 in the next month or two. I'll try to get up to Navysnipe asap for the floor though.

[no moa]

Ok well I'd sell it for $250 if you were interested. I'm going to pull it off this weekend I'll get some pics.
Thanks
Glen.
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[jtaylor]

A few pics of my new frame.. I was told it's a 68, but I'm thinking it's a 71... wondering why it has slightly thinner metal than my bad 69 frame, but I've read that in 71 they changed to a stronger steel. ???
I'll need to blast some areas before I use the eastwood RE, then I'll use hammertone black on the frame, it should look good and stay rust free for a while I hope...

[jtaylor]

Thanks, send me pics when you can... that's a good deal, I might be interested... If not I'll be grabbing the bed floor Navysnipe has and getting a rear bed together piece by piece.. Where in ME are you?

[no moa]

Originally Posted by jtaylor

Thanks, send me pics when you can... that's a good deal, I might be interested... If not I'll be grabbing the bed floor Navysnipe has and getting a rear bed together piece by piece.. Where in ME are you?

about a 45 minutes from Navy swipe. Id be grabbing that bed floor from him 2, thats a very nice floor panel. I'll post them up when i get it unbolted.

[BurnoutNova]

Originally Posted by navysnipe

1. The 2WD frame is NOT the same as a 4WD frame. I had both sitting side by side and they are definitely not the same.

A 2wd frame with leafsprings is the same, other than the front spring hangers. You must have had a 2wd frame with rear coils. The rear rails are a bit different, but you can make it work.

[jtaylor]

Anyone know why my new frame would have 2 leaf springs in front and the old 69 frame has 3? I've been curious as to why the metal is thicker on the old frame and has 3 leafs in each spring.
Doesn't seem to be much documented about the 71-72 frames being made of different steel.
Also, what's the crossmember called on my old frame where the drive shaft goes through? There isn't one on the new frame...
Got the wheels sandblasted today and will paint and get new tires on them this weekend. Can't wait to have the chassis rolling and get some fresh paint on all of it.

[navysnipe]

Nope I had a 70 C20 with leafs in the rear special order for Chevy and a Dana 60 and a 72 K2500 with leaf springs in the rear stock for GMC's with a Dana 60. The frames are absolutely NOT the same. 4WD frames are more straight on the side rails and the 2WD drive frames have a curve in them. My plan was to swap everything from my 72 to my 70 changing the cross members and running gear, since my 70 frame was in better shape, NO GO. I ended up ordering new cross members from a scrapyard in CA to replace mine. Since the ones on the other frame were so different. While I am sure you can make something work, it would be alot of fab work and I am more interested in having my truck look as stock as possible. You can see in the picture the frame sides are almost straight, in the 2WD frame there is a curve in the rear of the frame and the front section aroung where the hangars would go. Trying to get the hangars in a spot that would grab my Dana 44 in the correct spot made me stop and restore the other frame.

Navysnipe

[jtaylor]

Navysnipe, that bed floor you have, do you think I can tie it up on the roof of my Astro van? I had to borrow a trailer for the frame in ME, but I'm thinking the floor could be fine on the roof rack with tie downs. What's the aprox dimensions and weight? Thanks

[navysnipe]

Dude, that thing is about 200# and about 8Ft by 4Ft. Very awkward...I am not sayin it can't be done but I sure don't want anything to happen to you or your van. I meant it when I said I would hold it for you, but if you want to try and strap it to your van.....that thing would be like a wing on top of your van. To be honest I would feel better if either one of us could come up with a trailer to haul it. I may be able to deliver it and meet in the parking lot at Heaths grocery store or something. Safety first, everyone gets home!

Let me know either way

Navysnipe

[jtaylor]

haha.. yeah I didn't even consider the support rails... I could borrow a trailer at some point again or if and when you're headed to your place in Sandwich and have a way to transport, I'd definitely pay you for the trouble in that case... I'll be in touch, maybe after winter would work best. Thanks again for all the advice on the posts too.

[navysnipe]

jtaylor,

just to be perfectly clear so we don't have any misunderstanding....it hate that. The bed is only the bed floor, you will have to find yourself some 8FT bed sides and a tail gate. I will throw in a bed front panel since I have one laying around and I have a new one for a wood bed that I will be using. The last guy I gave something to almost would not leave my garage because he wanted my bedsides. Holy cow I almost had to call the cops. Yeah I see your van in the background of one of the pictures, I would say no, you would probably end up in the pucker brush needing a tow. If I can I will bring it up and leave it by my cabin, off of 113A. We have some time I am sure that we will come up with something.
As for the leaf spring thing, mine has three in the front. BUT I have seen one with two a K10 and heard of others with two. Maybe it is a half ton frame? Not sure I know that both of my frames are 3/4 ton frames. As for the frame thickness, from what I have heard on this forrum (correct me if I am wrong) there were NO short bed 3/4 ton's made and I am not sure if 4x4 was an option with a short bed. But there May be a difference in the K10 and the K20 both long frames. I think if you do a search in this site you will find others with the same question.

Navysnipe

[jtaylor]

Thanks Navysnipe, that sounds good to me...
Yeah, my new frame was a shortbase converted to long, maybe the old frame I have here is actually a 3/4 ton frame, it's closer to 3/16" steel...
I'll do some reading on the site to learn some more about all this.

[jtaylor]

Picked up some Black diamond media at tractor supply... that's gonna work good when I get to the frame and cab... All my rims are done and I picked up new 235 75 15's to put on this week.
Hopefully I'll get some frame progress tomorrow and start assembling the 350.
Here's what the rally's look like with rustoleum wheel paint and clear coat.

[WAAF]

fereria's junkyard in carver ma. has 2 trucks.. one is a long arm frame and one is a long box leaf spring .. and they don't think they have gold..
the long arm one id blue with no bed..
the leaf is white gmc with a utility box

[jtaylor]

Thanks WAAF... But I think I have what I need for the most part for now... So far I'm doing this in the least cost effective way hahaha... Started this whole project by picking up the 69 K10, but now have the newer frame. The cab will need a whole new floor, that won't be cheap, but will be nice to have fresh metal to start with. If it weren't winter I'd be getting more done, the cold temps keep me from painting the frame and 350 block lately. Will have to get everything in the barn and get them warmed up.
Still been intrigued as to why the 69's frame has .19 steel and the new frame is .16... found a few posts that verified the numbers, I'm thinking the 69 frame has to be a 3/4 ton....Can anyone verify that from the pictures on the first page? That would explain the heavier leafs too. I like the new frame and would actually prefer the weight and ride height of a k10 anyway. All the new fabrication from mid frame back is all new 3/16 steel, from there forward it's the .16...
I was told it's a 68 frame. I know it isn't since the core support hole is 1.7" and a 68 would have been 1.125" ....
Trying to get some of this info down in my thread for future reference too...it's been tough researching these specifics here, but they interest me and since it's my first restoration, I better learn as much as I can about the details of the 67-72 series.
So my never ending list of questions;
1- Why does my old 69 frame have a crossmember where the driveshaft goes through? ( should be a picture on page 1 or 2 ) it's that typical and do I need to transfer it to my new frame?
2- the new frames front crossmember is bent up severely. I can easily take it out and swap with the one from the 69 which is perfect, but rivets... Is it ok to re install with bolts and not rivets?
Thanks for the time and advice on all this!

[jtaylor]

Still researching the frame mystery...
The old frame that I was told was a 69, has .19 steel, 8 leafs in rear, 3 or 4 in front, a skid plate and a carrier bearing cross member. 6 lug drum brakes all around. I get the feeling it must be a 69 K20...
New frame; I was told it's a 68... it's definitely not. It has the larger core support hole, so has to be from 69-72... Has .16 steel ( other than new fabricated rear frame, it's 3/16 ) has no skid plate or carrier. Has 6 leaf rear, 2 leaf front. Has a steel plate reinforcement inside rail behind power steering box ( looks factory ) has 6 lug disc brakes in front...
Mostly curious about all this, but kind of need to know which year my frame is to get the correct brake lines and wiring harnesses. I'd be glad to find out it's a 71 or 72, it seems it might be...

[jtaylor]

I have the large spring perch in rear too.. from what I read that's 71-72.