67-72 Chev Crewcab Build

[mjensen]

Wow! That is awesome!

I'm really digging the 4 doors!, there was a snapshot of one in the latest issue of Classic Trucks (article about Bonneville Salt Flats). Damn nice looking.

[Car'n'Guitars]

Love the look of the cab looks amazing.

[hgs_notes]

Great idea doing all that work with the skin off.

[KensChevy]

...

[jbclassix]

did you lap weld all the seams?

[atvpro]

In some places I did , but only where it was needed. I tend to over weld things as it is.
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[jbclassix]

No such thing, Ha! Did you have any issues with warping? I really like the idea of flanging and lap welds with spot welds. I't should be extra strong. I'm probably going to pick your brain all the way through this build. I can't wait to see what you do for your window frames!

[tomsprojects]

Your killing me with all that your getting done. I don't have any time right now to work on my.
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[Dieselwrencher]

Great work! I was curious what you were going to use for a skin. I assumed a donor piece from the burb just where you are going to use. The burb donor I'm getting has big dents in that area. So I'm wondering if it would be better for me to use an old box side, or I need to find another burb to hack that section off of.

[atvpro]

Weezer I couldn't imagine doing it any other way.
Regarding lap welding; lap welding in this particular case is not necessary where ever a joint turns and goes in a different direction you can see that as a reinforcement lap welding on sheet metal is hardly necessarily especially when you consider spot welding with a mig welder is way more effective than factory spot welding. Before I button up the door I will go back through and check all areas for flex.
Regarding the question about warping; I never spot weld more than three in a row before I move somewhere else and then come back, I also use an air blower to instantly cool the weld when I think warpage could happen.
Regarding flanging; is there really any other way. I broke my flanging tool earlier this week trying to flange into a corner, stopped what I was doing and went and replaced the tool instantly. The hole punch on the flanging tool is invaluable wouldn't even think about doing this job without a high quality flanging tool.
Regarding the window frames; if you look back on the window frame pictures the window frame is done. It was a cake walk.
Regarding how quickly I am getting this done; nothing quick about it but this is my living.
Ryan yes I did use the skin behind the driver's door because the body line is consistent; you need 35 inches continuous I don't know if a bedside would work or not.
Just after 9:00 on Saturday getting ready to roll out the rotisserie and do some media blasting. Mainly the roof and the inside of the door and then I will be pulling it back in and finishing the door. All future crew cab projects will be media blasted before I start any work. Getting tired of smelling burnt paint and welding is a lot easier when there is no rust or paint.
Always remember guys my shop is always open to visitors just be careful I might put you to work. Looking forward to building myself a 70’ 4 door one ton 4wd burb.

[jbclassix]

Thanks for the info!

[rodc77]

Looks great. What is your wheelbase now?

[atvpro]

160" hub to hub.
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[Maxxd07]

This will be a great truck! Cant wait to see it done.

[atvpro]

Thanks Les. I can't wait to drive it
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[72BlckButy]

Awesome...

[VA72C10]

Awesome work!

[YBNORML]

Nice work, I wish I had 1/10th of your skill.
Are you planning on building cabs for sale?

[atvpro]

Rtechfabrications.com
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[YBNORML]

Thank for the quick response. You have now given me something else to save for.
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[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks for the info and continue the great work!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by atvpro

A ton more hours working on the locking system, the inside door handle and the linkage that goes with that. The window rolls up and have a few things to do to the front of the door then I'm ready to skin it however before I do anything else I plan to media blast the inside of the door and roof. Getting tired of working with dirty metal. The door skin I will be using will be coming from a suburban behind drivers door.

ATV is there anyway to straighten up the rear door window channel and still have it functional? I think it would give it a cleaner look.
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[atvpro]

Rob,

I have looked at this from many different angles and lets face it this door is already well over 100 hours to build. I don't see a way of doing it that will clear the latch mechanism and the hinge indentation on the front, I had one guy ask me if you could completely do away with it, I would say no it would look really weird with a big piece of glass in the back and a small piece glass on the front door.

[atvpro]

Just got done painting seamsealing and rubber coating the inside of the door, will probably try to have the door skin on by the end of the day.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by atvpro

Rob,

I have looked at this from many different angles and lets face it this door is already well over 100 hours to build. I don't see a way of doing it that will clear the latch mechanism and the hinge indentation on the front, I had one guy ask me if you could completely do away with it, I would say no it would look really weird with a big piece of glass in the back and a small piece glass on the front door.

Here's a picture of my 67 Crew that is done like I was talking about. I was trying to figure out why it works and yours wouldn't. I think I figured it out, let me know what you think is different, .