Camshafts..

[mud.man.rj]

I agree with gas, all the same cam with a different name, should all work good for you, I chose Comp 262 or what I usually use a 268 because I used so many over the years like 70 comp cams whick all worked great, but any of the ones mentioned are all great brand names, personal choice. Just get it built so we can hear it running. The 268 really likes 2 1/2" exhaust too.

[oldblue1968chevy]

One more question...

Should I break it in with regular old oil AND the zinc additive (lucas engine break in with zinc) or should I break it in with a high zinc oil (valvoline vr1 30wt) AND the lucas engine break in with zinc

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

One more question...

I just checked the site rules and you have used up all your questions for one particular thread topic!!

haha...just having fun with you. You are like me when It comes to certain things. So worried about making sure you make the right decision that you kind of get indecisive.

[68Stepbed]

Regular oil with a bottle of zinc break-in additive will be fine.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Camshafts 101: How to Choose the Right Street Cam
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=347969
What I have in my Ole' 62:

Chevy 1969 Cast Iron 3970010 350ci 4
Bolt Main (.30 over)
Engine Works 135290H - Camshaft Hydraulic Dual Pattern
http://www.engine-worksperformance.c...PartNo=135290H
Lopey Idle - .445/.465 Lift
Designed to suit the needs of entry level race classes
Idle = Lopey RPM Range = 2200 to 5800
Torque Peak = Mid Adv. Duration = 288/289
Duration at .050 = 214/224 Lift = .445/.465
Centerline = 107/117
KB Pistons 1479H-030 - Silv-O-Lite
Hypereutectic Pistons
Crankshaft Nodular Cast iron
10.5:1 Compression Ratio
1968 Chevrolet Corvette
327 Double/Camel Hump
3917291 - 327 - 1968 Corvette - 350hp w/temp unit hole
New Springs – 1969 – Z28
New Stainless Valves
Manley 1.94 Int / 1.50Exh
Hardened Exh Seats
Setup to 490 Lift
New Retainers and Locks
New Guides

Project: Full Metal Yellow Jacket - "Covert...

Rev'in the Ole' '62 - YouTube

[crazy longhorn]

I ran a Speed pro cam in a 9 to 1 355, with about the same specs.....it ran good! Talked with the machinist that built the motor (about gears). He told me I had too much cam in that motor? he told me that I had too much cam in that little motor.....my reply was , the cam is right.....I just need a little more GEAR! You should have seen that old man raise his eyebrows! Well, the lil 355 ran like stink in my longhorn with 4.10 gears/4 spd box...crazyL

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ok

I bought 2 oil filters and 1 bottle of lucas break in additve

I'll probably order 10qts of VR1 30wt tomorow.

(Or should I run regulaor oil on break in then change to the vr1?)


AND What vortec intake manifold gaskets should I buy???? They had alot to choose from?

[GASoline71]

I use Pennzoil 30wt oil and Comp Cams break in additive. No probs to date.

Fel-pro... or don't bother.

One of these day you gotta make some of your own decisions.

Gary

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Ok

I bought 2 oil filters and 1 bottle of lucas break in additve

I'll probably order 10qts of VR1 30wt tomorow.

(Or should I run regulaor oil on break in then change to the vr1?)


AND What vortec intake manifold gaskets should I buy???? They had alot to choose from?

Ok, you got the oil & the filter & the gaskets....what camshaft did you get? crazyL

[68Stepbed]

John, don't use synthetic oils with break-in additives. If you read the label on the additive, you'll see it says to use mineral oil for better results. Since you're running the additive anyway, don't worry with any kind of expensive or exotic oils to run with additives. After the initial break-in, though, you could spring for some good oils with zinc added to it already so you don't have to run the additive.

[oldblue1968chevy]

the standard vr1 is NOT synthetic althought they make a synthetic vr1 too?

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

"New" Oils and "Old" Cars Don't Mix
http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingce...oiloldcar.html

"New" Oils and "Old" Cars Don't Mix
By Mark D. Sarine

Have you heard about the “zinc” problem with modern motor oils? Many classic car owners and racers have experienced camshaft failures due to modern motor oils. Even worse, be prepared for the “zinc” to change in motor oils again later this Fall.
If you’ve not had the pleasure of having your camshaft go flat due to modern motor oils, consider yourself very fortunate. As an owner of an engine parts warehouse, I’ve seen hundreds of perfectly good camshafts ruined by modern motor oils. So when I read about the “new” API SN motor oil coming out this Fall, I started talking to the engine builders we supply parts. The engine builders all said the same thing – car owners don’t much know about these modern motor oils and the problems these oils create in classic cars and race cars. Knowing about the Cruise News, I contacted Mike to see if he could help us spread the word – modern motor oils are not good for your classic hot rods and race cars.

Here’s the facts:
“Zinc” or ZDDP as it is commonly referred to in motor oils is a type of chemical called Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate, and “Zinc” has been the most common anti-wear additive used in motor oils for the last 60 years. I just call it “Zinc” because it is easier to say and spell.
“Zinc” is a remarkable chemical that protects engine parts from metal to metal contact under heavy loads. “Zinc” works by creating a film on the iron and steel parts in your engine. Unfortunately, “Zinc” also creates a film inside modern Three Way Catalytic converters. This “Zinc Poisoning” limits Three Way Catalytic converter life to around 70,000 miles.
The Federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) mandates that car manufacturers warranty Three Way Catalytic converters on new cars built since 2004 for 120,000 miles.
To achieve this goal, the car manufacturers worked with the American Petroleum Institute (API) to create new, lower “Zinc” oils that allow Three Way Catalytic converters to live for 120,000 miles.

These new “Lower Emissions” oils have extended catalytic converter life, but they have shortened the life of flat-tappet camshafts.
Not long after these modern motor oils with less “Zinc” hit the market, we started to notice an increase in flat-tappet camshaft failures. At first, it was the race engine builders, so we shrugged it off as some new “trick” the race guys were doing that caused the problem. Then we started to see stock flat tappet camshafts going flat.
Things got ugly really fast. Every camshaft company started researching the problem. So did the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association.
Everybody wanted to know, why are cams going flat?

The answer was “Zinc”.
Lower “Zinc” oils work just fine in modern production car engines with overhead cams, and roller lifters. These modern engines don’t rev past 5,000 RPM.
Most hot rod and race motors have push rods, flat tappet lifters and rev beyond 5,000 RPM. These engines need motor with more “Zinc”.
The good news is that “High Zinc” oils are available.
If you have a classic car or race car, I highly recommend using the Joe Gibbs brand oils.
We have seen a dramatic reduction in camshaft problems when our engine builders started using the Joe Gibbs brand oils. Since Joe Gibbs Racing is a NASCAR team, they are on top of all the latest advancements in technology, and they have developed oils that work. I’ve seen used parts from Joe Gibbs Racing engines that look brand new (even with over 600 miles on them).

If you’ve not had any problems so far, consider yourself very lucky. Switching to a “High Zinc” oil before the new API SN oils hit the shelves is like an insurance policy against having problems.
We like selling engine parts, but I hate seeing good parts go bad - Especially when they don’t have to.
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

Learn More:
http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/index.html

Joe Gibbs Driven Break-In Oils provide optimum levels of zinc and phosphorus for flat-tappet engines and the maximum protection available for cams and lifters.
http://joegibbsdriven.com/products/breakin/index.html


From the leader in racing lubricants, now comes a lubricant designed specifically for high performance engines. Joe Gibbs Driven HR Oils build on our original formula while adding critical additives to protect engines when they are not running. Our formula uses the same additive technology developed for the U.S. Military for storing and shipping. It protects against rust and corrosion so your engine is protected even when it's not running. It features higher levels of Zinc than regular passenger car oils to deliver proper anti-wear protection for older style push-rod and flat-tappet engines. Available in synthetic or conventional formulas.
http://joegibbsdriven.com/products/hotrod/index.html

======================================================================
Frequently Asked Questions
http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingce...faq/index.html

Frequently Asked Questions

Oil Usage Questions:
How often should I change the oil?
Do I need to flush out my current oil before running JGD oil?
Is JGD oil compatible with Alcohol fuels? Nitrous Oxide, Nitromethane?
Can I run Joe Gibbs Driven oil in my high performance street car?
Can I mix a quart or two of JGD oil in with my regular oil to improve it?
Is it okay to run JGD synthetic oil in a roller follower camshaft or OVC engine?
Which oils can be mixed together?
Which oil is best for my race car?
Break-In Oil Questions:
How long can I leave the BR in my new engine?
Do I need an aftermarket additive in with the BR for flat-tappet break-in?
Is it okay to use JGD assembly grease on my engine bearings?
Is the BR oil synthetic?
Hot Rod Oil Questions:
What types of engines can Joe Gibbs Driven Hot Rod Oil be used in?
Will this oil really protect my engine during long periods of inactivity?
Should I use the synthetic or conventional version?
Can I use this oil in my new high performance vehicle?
Other Questions:
Is this oil really used by Joe Gibbs Racing?
Do your products contain any chlorinated additives?
What makes this oil different from regular street oil?
Are all synthetic oils equal?
What is API?
How do I become a dealer or distributor?
What's the proper way to store and handle lubricants?

Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil
http://www.youtube.com/user/JoeGIbbsDriven

Joe is author of Fourth and One, Racing to Win and Game Plan for Life.
http://joegibbsdriven.com/insidejgr/bios/joegibbs.html
joegibbsonline's channel
http://www.youtube.com/user/joegibbsonline

LS30 - YouTube

2012 New Products - YouTube

Understanding Motor Oil Standards.m4v -...

What Is Zinc? - Lubrication Fundamentals Series ...

Bigger Cams Need Better Oil - YouTube

Posted via Mobile Device

[mud.man.rj]

I always use Rotela T diesel oil to break in all engines I build the conventional 10/30 with a Gm additive which I put in at every oil change it is high in Zinc and have used it for over 20 years, before the big Zinc problem. The Comp cam stuff is same as Gm additive.

[Captainfab]

Neither Rotella T or Delo 400 have sufficient ZDDP for a flat tappet gas engine. They started cutting down on the additives when heavy trucks began having catalytic converters a few years ago.

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Neither Rotella T or Delo 400 have sufficient ZDDP for a flat tappet gas engine.

....and I have a really strong feeling that's why I lost 2 lifters/lobes in my Camaro motor. What even sucks more is that I was soooo mad at myself for not knowing the above info, I punished myself by putting a full roller valvetrain in the darn thing as a constant reminder of my mistake!!!!

[mud.man.rj]

What the heck is dela 400, not the gm additive by ac delco which is high on zinc.

[mud.man.rj]

The part # is 992869 for the ac delco oil supplement which is for cam shaft breakin as has been used for the last 20 years by Gm also Carcraft and Hotrod mag breal engines in with it as powerblock tv on their dynos, it has worked for me with some major aggressive cam shafts, mech and hyd for 20 years easily without one problem.

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by prostreetC-10

....and I have a really strong feeling that's why I lost 2 lifters/lobes in my Camaro motor. What even sucks more is that I was soooo mad at myself for not knowing the above info, I punished myself by putting a full roller valvetrain in the darn thing as a constant reminder of my mistake!!!!

Why did I suddenly think of

THIS SONG

when seeing those pics?

Sorry, I had to.

[prostreetC-10]

My kids now eat their cereal out of those porridge bowls!!

It was weird....when those went away, my rockers got REALLY loud! lol

[68Stepbed]

Pourage bowls!!!!!

[prostreetC-10]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

Pourage bowls!!!!!

Are you making fun of my spelling? It is "porridge". Hey wait a minute......or are you making fun of the fact that I ran it just long enough to make matching soup AND salad bowls??

[68Stepbed]

Just the fact you made soup and salad bowls.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

What the heck is dela 400, not the gm additive by ac delco which is high on zinc.

Delo 400 15W-40 diesel oil is what he's talkin' about. Just like The Shell oil... nowhere near enough ZDDP in them anymore.

If you're usin' a ZDDP additive with the diesel oil though. That's gonna be fine.

A buddy of mine with a 383 in his Chevelle ignored me when I told him that diesel oil no longer has the ZDDP levels in it anymore. He swore by the Rotella T. That 383 ate a camshaft back in September...

Gary

[redsled87]

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

What the heck is dela 400, not the gm additive by ac delco which is high on zinc.

It is a Heavy Duty truck oil. Don't bother with that or Rotella T. They are changing the levels in those also. Plus they are meant for a diesel engine, not a gas one. I use an additive called camshield along with my regular oil. You can google it as, I'm not at home to post a link.
Posted via Mobile Device