Project: LS1ick68

[68Stepbed]

I'm on the fence about the manifolds. I got them for a decent price, and I plan to clean them up by removing casting marks and heat sheild mounts, then either paint them or have them coated. They wouldn't be run as is. As for the power, I've heard of guys pushing over 500 hp through these stock manifolds. The cam I have is pretty aggressive. It made 461hp in an 11:1 LS1 with Trick Flow heads. I figure with my stock CR and stock 241 heads, I probably won't make near that much. So if these manifolds are good enough for even stock 430hp LS3's, then they should be OK for my application.

On the other side, headers would look, sound, and probably overall perform better. Also, if I run the manifolds, I would plan to change to headers in the future. That will also mean I have to fix the exhaust twice, too. The biggest thing right now is the cost of the headers. I went over budget on this thing, and just not sure if I'm willing to spend an extra $400-$500 right now.

I did find some Patriot Tigh Tube(block hugger) headers from Jegs for about $330. That's the least expensive coated headers I could find. I also found some stainless headers on eBay for $189+shipping, but I'm worried about the stainless turning colors later and I won't like that.

[OldCreek]

I didn't want the extra "trouble" of dealing with headers. I'm building a d.d. and would prefer it toned down a bit on the exhaust sound. The heat shield keeps it looking o.k. in my book but your truck is pretty damn nice! My experience with exhaust paint is poor...flakes off after a while. Don't all headers end up blueing, etc.? Ceramic holds up the best?

I'm pretty tired of the "cost creep" myself.

[nibs]

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

I'm on the fence about the manifolds. I got them for a decent price, and I plan to clean them up by removing casting marks and heat sheild mounts, then either paint them or have them coated. They wouldn't be run as is. As for the power, I've heard of guys pushing over 500 hp through these stock manifolds. The cam I have is pretty aggressive. It made 461hp in an 11:1 LS1 with Trick Flow heads. I figure with my stock CR and stock 241 heads, I probably won't make near that much. So if these manifolds are good enough for even stock 430hp LS3's, then they should be OK for my application.

On the other side, headers would look, sound, and probably overall perform better. Also, if I run the manifolds, I would plan to change to headers in the future. That will also mean I have to fix the exhaust twice, too. The biggest thing right now is the cost of the headers. I went over budget on this thing, and just not sure if I'm willing to spend an extra $400-$500 right now.

I did find some Patriot Tigh Tube(block hugger) headers from Jegs for about $330. That's the least expensive coated headers I could find. I also found some stainless headers on eBay for $189+shipping, but I'm worried about the stainless turning colors later and I won't like that.

I bought some Pacesetter headers for mine in ebay for $400 shipped. They are real nice coated longtubes, and they do fit out application!


Pacesetter 72C2256

[CROWN]

Nice nibs! I had a set of those on my 99 Camaro SS.
Posted via Mobile Device

[v62go]

your truck looks great...

[lt155ruck]

Cool lookiing build so far. I'll be watching this one.

[68Stepbed]

A little progress.

I found an F-body oil pan. The fit is much better. It actually clears about 3/4"-1" above the crossmember compared to the truck pan hanging below almost 1 1/2". No worries about scraping the oil pan now.

Comparison shot



clearance shots







Also got my wire looms started.



All I have to do now is drill the holes to line up with the plugs, install these end caps I had custom made from stainless, paint them up, then feed the wires through.


Now that I have the pan issue straightened out, I'm gonna call a GM tech to come over one evening or weekend(whatever works for him) to have the engine buttoned up. I could do it myself, but I don't have the proper tools.

[68Stepbed]

nibs, are those 98-02 F-body headers? Can I see some more pics of them installed?

[gringoloco]

F-body pan worked out great! Now I know what I have to do... The wire looms look interesting. I really do think headers would suit this build better. That being said, the F-body longtubes will hang below the frame with stock engine mounting, from what I've seen. Either way, you should sell me your manifolds when you get headers

[68Stepbed]

I paid $100 for them, so if you want them, that's what I'll need for them. Just let me know if you want them. I'll sell them, and get headers. They also have heat sheilds with them.

[68Stepbed]

Orderd THESE today, so the Camaro manifolds are up for grabs.

[mac72]

Love those tubes w/ the end caps,pretty cool

[gringoloco]

Cool! You'll have to tell us what you think of them- they look good in pics!
Posted via Mobile Device

[68Stepbed]

I sure will. I can't beleive how expensive headers are, so I was surprised to see the price on these. They look like good quality peices, so I don't expect any issues. I'll test fit them first, then have them ceramic coated. I can get them coated locally for $140.

That'll put me into a set of coated stainless headers for under $400.

I also ordered my 4.10 ring & pinion yesterday, and these little boogers for the steam holes. I ordered 2 blanks for the rear, and two with 1/8" NPT ports. I'll probably drill and tap an 1/8" port in the water pump, and either use -4AN hose or 1/4" brake line for plumbing.

[68Stepbed]

Well, with my son's baseball schedule, mine and my wife's work schedules, revival at church, and other things happening, it's been a slow past couple weeks for progress on the truck.

I did finally get around to making(but not completing) the coil pack bracket setup. I decided to mount them behind the intake using the two rearmost holes in the valley cover.




View with the carb and breather.



I also finally got the holes drilled and the end caps put into my wire looms.



I went ahead and fed the wires through for a test fit. Looks like I may need to send them back and get 45 deg boots. I'll double check when I get my headers in to make sure they will work.

[gringoloco]

Too clean! Are you sure you're gonna have room for the coils? Looks like it will be tight in the firewall area

[83_shortwide]

Thats a very clean look and I agree with you on the 45 degree boots, looks like these will rest on the exhaust flange
Posted via Mobile Device

[68Stepbed]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Too clean! Are you sure you're gonna have room for the coils? Looks like it will be tight in the firewall area

I test fitted to make sure when I was test fitting the f-body pan. I'll have about 1/4" of clearance.

[68GMCCustom]

nice work! coil pack relocate looks great.

[68Stepbed]

Headers arrived!




Also picked up the rebuilt(and upgraded) 700R4 last night from the builder.

[gringoloco]

Headers look nice! Looks like they should fit well. First impressions?

[68Stepbed]

They fit well, and tuck in a little closer than the Camaro manifolds, so I don't forsee any fitment issues as of yet. It's weird, though, because they actually touch on the side of the block just a tad. It's on this big square section, though, so grinding this down a little is no big deal. Maybe the iron truck blocks don't have this tab that sticks out as far? If so, that may be what the manafacturer built them by.

As for what I paid for them, I'm very happy. These are stainless, and yes, they're polished, but stainless headers have a tendency to change to a golden brown color after some heat cycles, so I plan to have these ceramic coated. I can have the coating done locally for $140. I paid just over $200 for the headers shipped, so that will put me into a set of coated stainless headers for about $350. The cheapest coated shorty or block hugger headers were $330 for Patriot Tight Tubes from Jegs, Hooker block huggers were $395. Sanderson shorties were around $500-$600. Long Tube headers started at around $600+.

[68Stepbed]

Slow week last week, but here's what I happened to get done.

After close inspection of the headers, it looked like I may have an issue. I bolted the trans to see what the deal is.




It looks like it may just barely clear with the right collectors.



I finished up the wire looms. I should have my wires back in this evening, so I can go ahead and run them through and put the grommets in. Here's how they look with the headers.





I also took all my bolts to be powdercoated black, so they would stand out against the aluminum color better. They should be done today, and I'll pick them up tomorrow, then start bolting things together for the final time.

[bcubed]

Those wire looms are the coolest thing I have seen .. congrats on a great idea.

Originally Posted by 68Stepbed

Slow week last week, but here's what I happened to get done.

After close inspection of the headers, it looked like I may have an issue. I bolted the trans to see what the deal is.




It looks like it may just barely clear with the right collectors.



I finished up the wire looms. I should have my wires back in this evening, so I can go ahead and run them through and put the grommets in. Here's how they look with the headers.





I also took all my bolts to be powdercoated black, so they would stand out against the aluminum color better. They should be done today, and I'll pick them up tomorrow, then start bolting things together for the final time.

[BR3W CITY]

The "ear" on my trans got in the way about the same as yours; I had to trim both the exhaust flange, and the trans piece just a bit to get them to clear each other. I have tbss manifolds, but the exit location is very similar.