Greg's 50 Build

[99 to Life]

luv your truck man, hey a breakdown, push start and running like shizzat is all apart of the game. Wish I had time to head to some shows. though alot of small town shows its kinda hard to want to go especially with a patina truck. most people just don't get it. they def like the trucks usually but I can't stand explaining why it's not painted LOL.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

luv your truck man, hey a breakdown, push start and running like shizzat is all apart of the game. Wish I had time to head to some shows. though alot of small town shows its kinda hard to want to go especially with a patina truck. most people just don't get it. they def like the trucks usually but I can't stand explaining why it's not painted LOL.

Its easy for me to explain why its not painted since everything is original except the seats and wheels. Once I get all the good stuff under it like you I'm sure questions will come. Nice paint will come for me but it will be very last. As for the break down and stuff, at the time I was a little embarrassed because it broke at the show surrounded by so many nice cars but now I'm laughing it off. I do think I have narrowed by problem though. I was about to get the battery to charge on a charge so its my charging system. I just hope that the generator isn't bad because I don't want to throw any money at temporary parts and I can't afford all the stuff for a 12 volt conversion yet.

[nvrdone]

A 12 volt conversion doesn't cost too much. I used a 1 wire alternator, removed the regulator and used one original wire to hook into the voltage regulator. The rest is just some bulbs. It's a great change. Now the lights are bright and the truck starts better.
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[Root2812]

I made it out to the Anoka car show again today. If its not one thing its another. On my way there I hit a pot hole and my door flew open. I think it might be time for those modern latches so many of you have. When I got there my brakes were dragging so bad my drums were too hot to touch. I had no fluid leaks so my only guess is that maybe my pedal stuck and I didn't notice it. As the system cooled down I had less and less brake but atleast the brakes were released. I spoke with my dad and he said that if the brakes got hot enough they could have gotten air in them as they cooled. On the way home I had little to no brake but if I wanted any brake I have to pump them up. I will have to top off the master cylinder and bleed the brakes and see whats up then. I'm also going to try and clean the brushes on my generator to see if I can save it.

[99 to Life]

yeah def a downfall with the OG doors, happened to my passenger the other day and to me several times, just gotta make sure they are shut and locked.

[Root2812]

Well guys I am really bad about getting the pictures off my phone so every time I sit down to the forum I didn't have them.. Till today!

So I'll start with the older pictures I said I would post.
Here is the donor for my rearend. Its a 2000 Explorer with a 5.0 v8. It was rolled over so I took the rearend for free and took the receiver hitch too.


Here is the rear end. Its got 3.73, disk brakes, and the traction lock (ford version of Posi).


Currently I've been working on all of the truck's many problems that are keeping it off the road. So far I got better tires on the front and the brakes fixed (Still running stock). I have started on the 12v conversion since my 6v generator was unfixable with a damaged armature. I got a 12v generator from a 57 chevy 210 but it was no good too. Finally a buddy gave me an alternator. Of course it was bad too. I got a $13 rebuild kit from FleetFarm and while my wife was out of town I sat down at the kitchen table and rebuilt it. She was not happy when she found out.


So now I am on to mounting it in the truck and trying to stay as cheap as possible. The costs of adapters was ridicules so I made my own. I used some plate steel to move the generator mount back so the alternator would line up with the pulley on the engine. I had to move it over just a bit too so the bolts that hold the original mount to the plate wouldn't hit the block. The plate will bolt to the mounts original position on the motor. Not shown is some threaded rod and nuts that will go through the generator's original mount and give me a place to slide the alternator on. The nuts will hold it all in place. Last I will have to address the top mount but that shouldn't be as hard.

[99 to Life]

nice score on that rear end. get some flicks of the alt installed when you get it all done.

[Atommik]

Hey Greg, Glad to see you still chipping away at the build! Sometimes it seems like it takes forever to make any progress!

[av8tr33337]

" I sat down at the kitchen table and rebuilt it. She was not happy when she found out. "


It's much easier to ask forgiveness than it is to ask permission !

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by av8tr33337

It's much easier to ask forgiveness than it is to ask permission !

Truth!

The lighting is so much better at the table. haha

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by Atommik

Hey Greg, Glad to see you still chipping away at the build! Sometimes it seems like it takes forever to make any progress!

Yes it has felt like this has taken way too long. I hope to be done this week. My biggest problem is a lack of the right tool for the job.

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

nice score on that rear end. get some flicks of the alt installed when you get it all done.

I sure will. I have to remake my bracket. The holes were millimeters off and without a die grinder I couldn't elongate the holes in 1/8th inch plate. I tried to clamp it down and drill new holes beside the old ones. That was a failure. This time I have some 1/8th inch aluminum plate so I can file it easyer. Since an inch or so is overlapping the flange on the block that leaves only one inch of the thick aluminum hanging out. With the original bracket attached it will be plenty strong.

I enjoy the project but sometime I just want to stop having to come up with new ideas and have one work. haha

[Root2812]

SUCCESS!

Ahh that wonderful feeling you get after fighting with a task for a long time and then you finally get it! I still have to swap the bulbs over but today the truck started and ran with an alternator!

Here is the "custom" bracket I made. It works just as good as the spendy ones you can buy.

As you can see it moves the alternator back to line up the pully and moves it over a little bit. The alternator I got was trying to occupy the same real estate as the tab on the generator bracket so I just moved the bracket back, ran my threaded rod through, and viola!

I haven't wired it up yet but I started it with the alternator on to make sure it wouldn't throw the belt. WOW does it start great with 12V!

Here is the finished thing!


I'm really excited and proud. This was my first real fabrication to solve a problem. It was small but it took me a long time to figure out and get right. Now I'm ready for the next one. I do only have one regret. The alternator wires come out at the 3 o'clock position so they point to the block. If someone else does this like me get one with the wires coming out at the 9 o'clock position. And yes I am using a 3 wire GM alternator with the internal regulator.

I saw the brackets to buy anywhere from $60 to $90. Mine cost less than $20.

[99 to Life]

hey man, nice fab. Great feeling making the mind work and having success. You could get a longer belt, that way your alt would rotate the other way to tighten up, thus moving your wires to a better position.

[Root2812]

Thanks 99,

I have to take it apart and rework the mount. The alternator just vibrates a little too much I think its going to fail on me at some point. While its apart I think I am going to rotate the rear half of the alternator housing. I should have thought of that before.

An opportunity fell into my lap today so I need to decide what I want to do. My plan has been to change out the suspension and put in an LS motor backed by an auto trans. Today I got an opportunity for a free 235 that runs great. Somedays I love the old truck element of my truck and maybe a 235 and not hot rodding it might be fun, but other days I think how awesome the LS power would be in a hot rod version of the truck.

[99 to Life]

235's are awesome and definitely worth having esp if free. I feel you on the new vs. old though, thats why I have countless projects that will encompass many different styles. Two being the LS engine and 235 in a 53' belair and 52' 3100. Depends on how fast you want to get on the road. If your patient enough and your budget allows the LS swap is cool but has many many variables and costs. The 235 would be sick cause its more period correct, has good torque and can still be rodded out, and isn't so common it seems. The 235 would be much easier and nostalgic but its just a matter of style you want to take. If you had two trucks, it would be a no brainer to do both, but if you only have one, ahhh maybe do the 235, get it on the road and if you get tired of it, do the LS. Tough decision time and money are always a factor.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Root2812

Here is the "custom" bracket I made. It works just as good as the spendy ones you can buy.

i agree, building your own saves money to use for other goodies.
but.. there is a lot of tension in the belt when you rev it up.
you need some support for the front of the alternator
when that all thread rod breaks the belt will pull the alternator up and into your radiator.
it will at a minimum bend up and throw the belt

your main bracket is a typical generator mount that works well for an alternator
get some angle iron to mount it to the block
and move the U-bracket forward enough to catch the front of the alternator
then cut some pipe as a spacer so you can tighten the alternator mount bolt
use a long bolt too, all thread rod doesn't have a grade rating on it unless you buy expensive graded rod.

your idea is great, you just need to upgrade it up a notch

[Root2812]

Thanks for the comments guys.

99, Yeah I am really leaning to that 235 for the cool nostalgia factor and the cost. I got a free 700r4 to put behind it too. I'm not really in it for speed and I know both motors will get me up to 70. I like the LS for the look mostly but I also want to be able to pull a 3000-4000 pound load so I can tow a camper. Would a 235 do that?

Ogre, You are right on with what I have been thinking the weekend. I got a free piece of 1/4 inch angle iron so I am going to try that. It should be more than strong enough with a grade 8 bolt. I also plan to redesign the mount more forward. Atleast with this mount I have I can take it off and get all my measurements. I didn't get any work done this weekend because I was out buying a new ... Well new to me.

I sold the 4cyl 2wd ranger and picked up a 2000 4x4 Jimmy from my wife's grandpa for a steal. So far I am happy with it.

[99 to Life]

Honestly, I never towed anything with these trucks, so I can't say how it would handle. I would say a halfton frame would be on the weak side for towing. You'd have to have some good springs/suspension IMO, plus you'd have to make sure you have trailer brakes for load that big. Then tire size plays a roll, 15" tires is not something I'd feel comfy towing with, and if you went 16, your stance is going to be more stock, not sure what your going for. If your serious about towing I'd get a 1ton frame and go LS to be safe and beef up your suspension.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Root2812

Atleast with this mount I have I can take it off and get all my measurements.

i was thinking the same thing, great minds think alike
your on the right track now

[av8tr33337]

Hey Greg,

Great job so far on the truck. Was wondering if you had any pics of the seat installed?? I got the same exact seat only in blue out of our old mini van before it got recycled. Just curious about your mounting, seat height, etc. I'm 6'3 and 300 lbs so I knew leg room was going to be an issue with me, also room behind the wheel. The skinny seat back will help and dialing in the seat height will help with leg room. Thanks and keep up the great work.

[99 to Life]

bartman, another thing you could do is shorten your steering column, depending on how high your seat is, could give you some more leg room there. My steering wheel sits much closer to the dash than stock, my seat I think I made about 4" blocks under, it came out of an 80's silverado truck.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by av8tr33337

Hey Greg,

Great job so far on the truck. Was wondering if you had any pics of the seat installed?? I got the same exact seat only in blue out of our old mini van before it got recycled. Just curious about your mounting, seat height, etc. I'm 6'3 and 300 lbs so I knew leg room was going to be an issue with me, also room behind the wheel. The skinny seat back will help and dialing in the seat height will help with leg room. Thanks and keep up the great work.

The seat has been just sitting in the truck unmounted since its only going up and down the drive way. Once I finish getting the electrical squared away the seat will be done. I've been coming up with ideas and right now I am thinking of just using the old seat frame and mounting my new seat to it. Similar to how my bucket seats were mounted. that way it will just bolt into the stock seat riser.

Here is a picture of the buckets.


The whole plan is to take that stock seat frame and cut the back off so its just the base and then to use square tube to reinforce it. I have some tracks from my dad's Silverado seats so I might try and make it a slider but I am not too sure yet.

I've been limited by a lack of tools but the fight rages on.

Thanks for asking

[99 to Life]

those buckets look like pretty good for buckets. bartman and others for that matter, see how they stuff the wheel in your face, if you bring the column down by cutting it, it gives you more visibility and leg room. Root- I hear you about tools, when I started I had nothing. I'm still buying tools here and there and need some big priced ones, but slowly you will get there. You know your a man when all you want for xmas or your birthday is giftcards for tools. Buying tools is a never never ending thing though.

[av8tr33337]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

bartman, another thing you could do is shorten your steering column, depending on how high your seat is, could give you some more leg room there. My steering wheel sits much closer to the dash than stock, my seat I think I made about 4" blocks under, it came out of an 80's silverado truck.

Good feed back 99 to life. I have 3 steering columns to choose from. I have a 79 c10 keyed no tilt, and a 84 camaro non keyed with tilt, 92 GMC Safari van keyed with tilt. All the same length. I also have the shifter out of the camaro. I like tilt cuz a fat man can tilt it up when getting in and out. I was thinking about centering the reccess between the gages and not dropping the colum like some do. I also like what some of you guys did with running the original column after shortening it. I would probably have to go with a smaller steering wheel though. Plus my original was stolen several years ago.

I'll probably get the seating and steering sorted out first thing when I get out of my cast. 6 more weeks to go,
then try to get back on the 51.


Thanks for the feedback Root and 99 to life,

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

those buckets look like pretty good for buckets.

They came out of a 1964 Impala SS. They are nice seats but I wanted a bench seat so out they come. I'd really like to find an original seat but its hard to find one that isn't trashed. The van seat is my next choice and I got it for only $20.