10-30-2012, 11:51 AM | #51 |
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Re: Super Blue
For the relay/fuse setup I cut out a flat piece of aluminum, drilled and tapped some mounting holes for the relays and fuse block, and used some Velcro to attach it to the firewall insulator. That way I can pull it out and add to it or whatever easy enough. My wife even showed up to "help" a little, by taking pictures of me concentrating a little to hard on tapping the holes in my relay/fuse mount to post to facebook.
I've still got to add an LED and calibration button for my 02 sensor under there somewhere, change the MAP connector, and wrap the wires. Then the injection wiring is DONE! Well I think anyway..... Then I think my next concentration will be on firing it up before I put the front clip on so it's easy to work on if something isn't right.
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac |
11-02-2012, 12:21 AM | #52 |
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Re: Super Blue
digging all the time you put into doing the work yourself instead of just buying the parts keep rollin brother!
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Project NewType 1972 Chevy C/10 Cheyenne Super ( Daily Driven Showtruck ) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=507903 Project Great Grandpa's Legacy 1973 Chevy C/10 Cheyenne ( Current daily driver collecting big time parts ) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...89#post7084289 - Dylan (209)-985-7721 |
11-20-2012, 03:21 PM | #53 | |
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Re: Super Blue
Quote:
Made a little more progress. I got all my brackets, PS pump, water pump, and pulleys from KRC. Real simple, clean, and gets the job done. I'm not sure if it's cheaper than any other options, just seemed much cleaner and simpler to me, plus I already had the pump. If anybody tries to do this, the alternator is tricky. You need a CS121 style, and trying to figure out what car it came on to tell the guy behind the counter wasn't easy for me to figure out. Long story short, I went to CarQuest and got a 7937-11A. You can buy racing units, and single wires from Powermaster and others, but that's not what I wanted. Plus, they are EXPENSIVE. Be warned though, you are limited to an 80A output. I'll have electric fans and fuel injection, I think I'll be ok, fingers crossed! I also got my fuel injection harness all covered up. I wanted something similar to Painless Classic Braid, but I didn't want to have to order 10' or whatever their minimum is of each size that I needed, and I didn't want to pay $150 or whatever they charge for their generic harness kit. So I did some searching, and found "F6 Wrap Around Braided Sleeving". I ordered mine from here. I think I spent like $27 including shipping, and had a fair amount left over. I thought it came out pretty good. Now, if it doesn't all melt, I'll be happy. I also fired it up last weekend. I'd post a video, but the results were less than desired. It popped right off, no problem. But once it got warm and the O2 started taking over the fuel mixture (ECU configuration settings), it started surging real bad. Long story short, I need to reprogram the outputs on the O2 sensor and should be good to go. The USB to serial adapter I was using to tune was also not adequate, my laptop kept disconnecting from the ECU every time the engine would fire up. I've got a cable coming to solve that I hope. BUT, I shut it off and started it numerous times, and it fired every time, even with the baseline tuning. I think it's going to be pretty awesome to have the old ride injected once I get it all figured out. I hate even admitting this, but when I put the engine and tranny together, I measured the clearance for the throwout bearing like you are supposed to. I came up with 1/16" interference (you need .050-.100" clearance). Well, I convinced myself that since all the parts I had SHOULD work together, it would be ok. So I left it like that, and went on. Well, now that I'm getting "close" to driving it, its been bugging me. And upon further inspection, I need to do something about it. So the tranny has to come out and I need to figure out how I'm gonna get some more space in there. The bad part of taking the tranny out, is that I thought I planned ahead and configured my exhaust so I could get the tranny out. Well, I forgot that little aspect when I built my hangers, and now the tranny crossmember won't slide out of the way.... So I am currently trying to come up with a CLEAN solution without ruining the work I've done so far OR pulling the exhaust. As quoted in one of my favorite movies, and as my wife reminded me; "Without disappointment, you can't appreciate victory." It was a one step forward, 10 steps back kind of weekend, but I'll get it figured out.
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac Last edited by Portmod7; 11-20-2012 at 03:43 PM. |
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11-20-2012, 09:56 PM | #54 |
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Re: Super Blue
very nice work!
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-Rus |
11-21-2012, 10:58 AM | #55 |
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Re: Super Blue
Thank you!
NOBODY PANIC.... I got it.... Ha ha ha... Pretty dumb move to put it all together when I knew it was wrong. But, at least I came to me senses before I smoked a clutch over it or something. AND, now I know how to get my tranny out if I ever need to again. Between my exhaust and having the motor on the 6-cylinder pedestals, it's a tight fit. And removing factory rivets under the truck, not a whole lot of fun. Now to figure out how to fix my problem... My throwout bearing is SUPPOSED to work with a Saginaw transmission... My bellhousing is the same depth as the stocker.... And the clutch is SUPPOSED to be a stock replacement unit... The only thing I can figure is that the flywheel is thicker than a stock style, which I doubt... Or I've read about different clutches having the release "fingers" sticking out further than others (this is pretty much what I've concluded has happened). So.... What to do.... I'm considering having some machine work done to the bearing retainer to let the throwout sit further down on it. BUT, I'm not sure I've got enough material to work with on that. I can also buy a different bearing they sell for a T-5 tranny, but it's $150. I guess we'll see... I lack .1625" from being where I need to be. A little over 1/8"...
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac |
11-21-2012, 12:07 PM | #56 |
A guy with a truck
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Re: Super Blue
Nice work! Everything is so clean, methodical, and meticulously detailed. Glad you didn't let it beat you...
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11-21-2012, 12:18 PM | #57 |
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Re: Super Blue
Ha ha, NEVER! Thanks man! I'm so close, I've been having dreams about driving her lately... I can't freakin wait!!!
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac |
11-21-2012, 08:51 PM | #58 |
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Re: Super Blue
Very nice build, excellent work. Will be watching
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"The way it is" truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=359200 |
11-27-2012, 02:26 PM | #59 |
A day late and $1 short...
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Northwest FL
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Re: Super Blue
Man, I am really enjoying this build; I am learning a lot as you go along. The point that is made in this build is there are many roads that lead us to a destination, each with its own lessons along the way. It takes creativity and perseverance to take the road less traveled, and in many cases the journey is much more meaningful at its conclusion, this build is great example of this. Really impressive so far! Keep up the good work, I'll be watching patiently.
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Buck Instagram: C10_ustacould 1963 SWB Fleet Side 528 Desert Beige Milly 1967 SWB Step Side 506 Medium Blue The Old Girl 1968 SWB Fleet Side 503 Light Green Ellie SOLD 1965 SWB Fleet Side 507 Light Blue Prescription Strength SOLD 1971 SWB Fleet Side 521 White Shiro SOLD 1968 SWB Step Side 503 Light Green My Old Farm Truck SOLD |
11-28-2012, 06:26 PM | #60 | |
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Location: Aztec, NM
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Re: Super Blue
Thank you!
Quote:
I learned it racing cars. I figure they are all just hunks of "iron" with an internal combustion engine between the rails and a few things in between to fill the gaps. You can fill the gaps with whatever you want, as long as you get the power to the ground. Might as well fill them the way you want. Ordered tires and wheels today. Not the ones I wanted, but they'll get me through till Eagle makes another batch of the 225's in a 5" BS... Which could be never, nobody seems to know... Ordered a shorter throwout bearing for my clutch dilemma, that should be here today. Got speedo gears coming. Entropy radiator showed up last night, and my buddy bucket seats the day before. It's SO close.... Now I just need to find some time to work on it.
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac |
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11-28-2012, 07:38 PM | #61 |
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Re: Super Blue
Looks great man .. In for the build.
Did you go with the MB wheels?
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Chad 1967 C10 SWB - Project Savannah - 6.0/4L80 *Currently underway* 1968 C10 SWB - TOTY 2018, 50th Anniversary Tribute Project * Sold * Pride and Joy 1986 Silverado Short Fleet - Scarlet *Sold* 1985 Silverado Short Fleet *Sold* 2022 Jeep Gladiator Mojave 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted, Built 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted 2013 Honda Accord EX-L v6 Coupe 6spd (wife's ride) |
11-28-2012, 07:47 PM | #62 |
67cheby
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Re: Super Blue
killing it man, keep up the great work !
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11-28-2012, 10:18 PM | #63 | |
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Location: Aztec, NM
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Re: Super Blue
Quote:
I did. Stupid cheap (AND AVAILABLE) until I can get my hands on the 225's. Sure thought hard about yours. I'm glad you found a way to hang on to them, if nothing else so they stay with your project. Thank you! I need to get it wrapped up! Money like water through your fingers, ha ha.
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac |
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12-01-2012, 11:43 PM | #64 |
A day late and $1 short...
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Northwest FL
Posts: 3,877
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Re: Super Blue
I wanted to ask how are the push-loc hoses working for you? I used braided lines, and unfortunately they must allow some fuel to seep through because they stink. My garage always has a strong fuel smell when the truck is in there. Wondering if the push-loc hoses did better... lmk!
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Buck Instagram: C10_ustacould 1963 SWB Fleet Side 528 Desert Beige Milly 1967 SWB Step Side 506 Medium Blue The Old Girl 1968 SWB Fleet Side 503 Light Green Ellie SOLD 1965 SWB Fleet Side 507 Light Blue Prescription Strength SOLD 1971 SWB Fleet Side 521 White Shiro SOLD 1968 SWB Step Side 503 Light Green My Old Farm Truck SOLD |
12-02-2012, 02:26 AM | #65 | |
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Re: Super Blue
Quote:
I made some progress in that last few days. My wheels and tires showed up, my new throwout bearing, and so did my speedo gears. Wheels and tires look good, I am happy with the purchase. For as cheap as they were($1600 total), I am very happy. Plus, I ordered on Tuesday, they were sitting at my door when I got home from work on Friday. I won't have any pictures of them on the truck for a little while yet, but soon. Got a shorter Howe Racing throwout bearing from Speedway Motors. They advertise it to use with a T-5 transmission. The only difference between it and the unit advertised for the Saginaw is the compressed length and the stroke. I'm still not sure what's funky with my clutch setup, but I stuck this one in there with NO shims and it's perfect. I have yet to come across another one this short, sometimes I feel like I live in the Bermuda Triangle. I've never messed with speedometer gears before, or manual transmissions really. Just the stuff we ran in the race cars. I thought I would be able to simply unbolt the tailhousing, pull it off, swap out the speedo drive gear, and off I go... Wrong. On a Saginaw, you have to pull the side cover to get in there and release a retaining ring to pull the tailhousing off. I didn't want to dump the new fluid I had in it, so I had it propped up half way on it's side, half way nose-down... Sometimes I make it really hard on myself, and wonder why. It's also tough to get a pair of snapring pliers, more specifically duckbills as I hear they are called, wiggled in to release the ring. So after a couple of hours, and some cussing, I finally got the speedo drive gear swapped out without dumping the fluid (on purpose or accident). With my speedo gears correct, and the "right" throwout bearing, It was time to put the tranny back in. After the fight it took to get it out, I was ready for another put it back in. It slid right in, NO PROBLEM. The crossmember even went right back in. I did modify the crossmember slightly, I cut the corners off it around the mounting holes to make it THAT much narrower/smaller. Safe to say now, that if I do any more tranny work, it will be a breeze. Next step I see is bleeding the brakes and clutch, then I'll put the doors and front clip on. Then I'll build my headlight and fan relays. Slap some gears in it, and it'll be pretty much ready for the road!
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac |
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12-04-2012, 07:21 AM | #66 |
dazed and confused
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: marion nc
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Re: Super Blue
Just found this wow. Great work
Posted via Mobile Device
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members met: redbaron69, billsbowtie,nc67 |
12-10-2012, 11:50 AM | #67 |
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Re: Super Blue
Nice progress!! Keep it coming...
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12-10-2012, 11:58 AM | #68 |
67cheby
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Re: Super Blue
looking good !
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12-11-2012, 01:18 AM | #69 |
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Re: Super Blue
Lol, I guess I should at least check in on the forum more often, rather than just let it lay dormant and pick up little bits of the good stuff from my buddy the forum king, because apprently he won't mention he started a build thread, and that there is now actual documentation of his project. I'll make sure I stay up to date and current now. Plus, seeing yours so close to hitting the road has ACTUALLY inspired me to get back on mine this time (as opposed to all those other times I said it did and then fizzled out, Pretty sure I'm serious this time) so i'm sure I'll be frequenting the forum(s) much more often than in the past!
This truck is really great guys, it's super clean, and he rarely overlooks ANY details. I assure you the time & work invested in this truck shine even brighter in person than the pics show. Great thread buddy!
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" I strive for a level of perfection that I do not possess the skillset to achieve. "
Ariel <> '67 C10 Shorty Stepside *** Build On Hold *** First Ride <> '81 C10 Long Fleet *** Current Project *** |
12-11-2012, 03:42 PM | #70 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Aztec, NM
Posts: 388
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Re: Super Blue
Thank you guys!
Quote:
________________________________________________________________ Made a little progress recently. I got my brakes bled, TRIED to bleed the clutch, got my Buddy Bucket frame modified, got the doors on, test-fit my wheels, and pulled the transmission and reinstalled it AGAIN.... The brakes bled very nicely, no leaks at all, I was excited! I love the tube nuts and sleeves that work with a single 37* flare. I've never had anything but trouble trying to make double flares like are on traditional brake lines. If I invested some decent money into a decent tool, it probably wouldn't be a problem. But as simple as a tube nut, sleeve, and a 37* flare is, I don't see any double flares in my future. Case in point: I tired to bleed my clutch system. That's the only place I used a double flare, and it leaked. Not only did it leak, but it leaked so bad that the fluid ran down my flex line, into my bellhousing, and made me think my new throwout bearing was leaking. So I pulled the transmission again and took my throwout bearing assembly to my buddy at the hydraulic shop to test it. Nothing wrong with it. Nothing like beating your head against a wall I've got fittings that should be here today to do my clutch line just like my brake lines, should be good to go! The Buddy Buckets I ended up with came out of a camper truck with a pass-through cab. So for the seats, the factory just cut the center section of the buddy frame out and added on some legs. The essentially mounted similar to the 69-72 buckets. I want to have the buddy console, so I cut some tubing up, put a couple bends in it, and replaced the center section of frame. I will also be replacing the driver seat tracks with some universal ones, the tracks I got are etremely loose and do not work all that well. It's been so long since I've seen the doors for this thing, I almost forgot it had doors. I dug them out of storage and bolted them on. Another EXTREMELY positive moment for me, THEY SHUT. I had seen on another build thread where they had replaced the floor of their cab like I did, but it pushed up on the rockers to the point where the doors wouldn't shut. I didn't think of that when I was doing mine, so I had a little nervousness that my doors wouldn't shut. I have no idea what would have become of my project if they wouldn't have shut.... I also put my GMC Paul's push-on weather stripping on. This stuff is AWESOME. It goes on so easy and clean, it was amazing. The only problem I have, is the doors are having a VERY hard time shutting. I've read that you need to cut a notch where the two ends of the weatherstripping meet under the door sill plate, and mine are just butted up. So I'll try notching them and see if my doors shut better. Hopefully I can solve it without getting away from the stripping I have, this stuff is too nice not to use. Also replaced my window regulators. Wasn't very much fun, but my windows roll up and down butter smooth now! I can't wait to get her out in the sunlight for some better pictures... The "lighting" in my shop is TERRIBLE, RWB-713 can confirm this.
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac Last edited by Portmod7; 12-11-2012 at 03:57 PM. |
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12-11-2012, 04:03 PM | #71 |
67cheby
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: siloam springs ar 72761
Posts: 17,890
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Re: Super Blue
looking great man !
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12-11-2012, 04:54 PM | #72 | |
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Location: Aztec,NM
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Re: Super Blue
Quote:
I didn't even steal the quote in my sig. that one's all me , and 100% accurate. And finally, yeah, your lighting is terrible, I imagine black holes to be better lit.
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" I strive for a level of perfection that I do not possess the skillset to achieve. "
Ariel <> '67 C10 Shorty Stepside *** Build On Hold *** First Ride <> '81 C10 Long Fleet *** Current Project *** |
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12-11-2012, 04:59 PM | #73 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Franklinton NC
Posts: 1,309
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Re: Super Blue
Can't wait to see how it turns out.
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12-11-2012, 06:14 PM | #74 |
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Location: Worldwide
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Re: Super Blue
This is a pretty sweet build, I really like the attention to detail you have.....
Last edited by Number98; 12-11-2012 at 06:25 PM. |
12-17-2012, 04:10 PM | #75 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Aztec, NM
Posts: 388
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Re: Super Blue
Thanks buddy! I'm enjoying the Square Peg progress, can't wait for the cutting and welding to begin!
Thank you! Quote:
_________________________________________________________________ Made some progress this weekend. FINALLY got my clutch all straightened out, the pedal feels like it could be a factory setup. That thing fought me the whole way, but once I got rid of all the inverted flares, I had no problems. Then I conned RWB-713 and another buddy into coming over and helping me with the front clip. We dug it out of storage and got it set on. Got the body lined up as good as it's going to get. It's starting to look a lot more like a truck! I also got my buddy bucket seats in. The driver's side tracks I got with them were pretty much shot. I ordered a set of universal ones from Speedway motors, and much to my surprise, they bolted right up. The only difference is the stockers have a raised mounting surface on the seat side, so I had to stack a few washers on my replacement units, but you can't even see them with the seats in the truck. I got my Entropy radiator mounted up. I was able to use the 2-3 core mounts that I had with a little modification. I was having a hard time sourcing the 4-core mounts, unless I purchased them new (expensive), so I went the cheap route and modified what I had. I should have just ordered it for 2-3 core mounts, but I was trying to save some money. Lesson learned. I also attempted to sort out the new headlight, fan, and charging system harness with no luck. Since I added fans, fuel injection, an electric fuel pump, internally regulated alternator, and had planned a headlight relay conversion I figured I ought to upsize the charging wire off the alternator. Well, to do it correctly and keep the ammeter gauge working correctly, you need to replace the factory 3-way connection near the left headlight. I'm going up to 8ga. on the wire, and will be feeding my headlights and fans with another 8ga. wire. Not only could I not figure out exactly what wires I was going to run where at first, but I found that getting terminals, junction blocks, etc. for my new 3-way connection was a little harder than I anticipated. I'm going to have to order a few things to get it done. But I've also since done some research and found out that not only will my current plan keep the ammeter working correctly, it also seems the correct way to do things. Not that other ways won't work, but supposedly they won't work as well as this. I really should work on being more organized. As you can tell, I just kinda let stuff pile up everywhere I work... I should at least clean up before I take pictures, ha ha.
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Super Blue - 1968 C-10 Short Stepside
Fastburn 385, 4-Speed Sag. on the Column, Coleman 9" Floater w/Detroit TrueTrac |
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