static dropped square bodies with 15s

[Skunksmash]

So how do they ride? Rough?

[bbbc10]

mine rides worse than a honda wth cut springs on a messed up road...but if road is smooth an not to messed up it rides great

[Rich84]

Originally Posted by chevybuilder18

Could you guys spare me a lil advise? the djm spindles are a good choice for a half ton c10 cause of the price.. i was wandering if 5 inch flip kit in the rear is excessive. im also wandering what cutting does to your coils? wouldnt that make handling the truck different? Are you using after market or stock A arms?

I have 3" djm drop spindles with 1.5" drop coils in front..The truck actualy rides better then it did with the old worn out coils..The flip kit is a must, because once you see it low you will want it lower..The truck handles much better in tight corners (lower center of gravity)., It's like a 2 ton sportscar.... lol

[bigchopz]

Here mine, it has Mcgauthy's drop spindles, shockes, cut springs, remove leves spring, and Mcgauthy's hanger in the rear. The 15s are wheels ving with 255/60/15 up front and 275/60/15 in the rear.

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by Rich84

I have 3" djm drop spindles with 1.5" drop coils in front..The truck actualy rides better then it did with the old worn out coils..The flip kit is a must, because once you see it low you will want it lower..The truck handles much better in tight corners (lower center of gravity)., It's like a 2 ton sportscar.... lol

I know the center gravity, and the wieght play a role in handling making it glued to the road. would i need better sway bar? and is 5 inch drop in the back excessive? or is it just right?

[Rich84]

I don't even have a sway bar..5" with a flip kit is what you'll get with a 4 pack spring kit.. If you have more leafs you'll get more drop.
Its all a matter of opinion..but for my money it's the place to start.
Posted via Mobile Device

[TRAU 82]

keep this thread going! great idea...

[Mikec10]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

mine rides worse than a honda wth cut springs on a messed up road...but if road is smooth an not to messed up it rides great

Lol same here man, im going bagged next spring though.

[baclay9]

5/7 Drop 15x8 w/ 245/60/15, 15x10 w/ 295/50/15



Not sure of the specs on this one but I figure it is similar

[olllie]

275/60/15 & 255/60/15

[long80gmc]

newtires by d_imel05, on Flickr

2.5" spindles and 1 coil chopped, 5" flip in the rear. 15x8 cragar ss wheels. 275/60R15 (if i remember correctly) and 225/70R15s in the front. Had long tubes......had to go with shortys.

[Metalshapes]

To all the fellas asking questions about my truck, I'm sorry but I haven't been anywhere near my computer so I will answer now, no side pics of my truck I had limited space when I took those and didn't want anything but the truck in the pictures. I'm running extrude honed exhaust manifolds(I dont believe in headers, you don't really need them unless you plan to make 500+ h.p.) with an h-pipe and mac stainless steel mufflers, I did all my own exhaust work so they are tucked up as far as you can go. I still have my inner fenders no issues with rub because my back space is custom. It also has huge sway bars and the truck rides great. I hope I answered all questions at this point.

[Mikec10]

[long80gmc]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

So how do they ride? Rough?

Mine rides pretty decent. Only thing really changed from stock is the chopped coil...axle is over the springs now...so not much difference if any there, spindles just move the wheel up, everything else is the same....

[EasySteve]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

So how do they ride? Rough?

I have 1 ton springs up front with two coils cut and the smaller sway bar, and the front is a million times better than stock. In the rear I have the top and bottom of my 5 original leafs as well as my overload, along with drop hangers on the front. The rear is soft and rides very well with gas magnums, not stiff like stock.

[chevybuilder18]

G-body and earlier F-body headers will work decent on your trucks, especially 1.56 (1 5/8) inch long tube headers, they wouldnt be an issue. i plan on doing the drop spindles and cutting an inch off the front and then heating the springs with a torch and quickly cooling them. idk if anyone on here has done heating the springs, but im not going to do it excessive. or another idea came to mind was to buy the coil compressors, then to make sure this device doesnt break while driving is heating the coils a lil bit. but if any one objects to any of these, please warn me of any hazards that have accured with heating springs.

[Skunksmash]

Originally Posted by long80gmc

Mine rides pretty decent. Only thing really changed from stock is the chopped coil...axle is over the springs now...so not much difference if any there, spindles just move the wheel up, everything else is the same....

Originally Posted by EasySteve

I have 1 ton springs up front with two coils cut and the smaller sway bar, and the front is a million times better than stock. In the rear I have the top and bottom of my 5 original leafs as well as my overload, along with drop hangers on the front. The rear is soft and rides very well with gas magnums, not stiff like stock.

You guys cut the coils. Isn't there some company that just sells lowering springs so you don't have the disadvantage of cut coils?

Or maybe bags have taken over that market.

[kalbert]

Originally Posted by chevybuilder18

G-body and earlier F-body headers will work decent on your trucks, especially 1.56 (1 5/8) inch long tube headers, they wouldnt be an issue. i plan on doing the drop spindles and cutting an inch off the front and then heating the springs with a torch and quickly cooling them. idk if anyone on here has done heating the springs, but im not going to do it excessive. or another idea came to mind was to buy the coil compressors, then to make sure this device doesnt break while driving is heating the coils a lil bit. but if any one objects to any of these, please warn me of any hazards that have accured with heating springs.

There really is no "right" way to lower your truck, but there are lots of "wrong" ways. Heating is always bad for several reasons. They'll never be as hard as they were, and will sag. Even if you just heat them a little bit, they will eventually collapse. Those bolt on compressor things are junk and likely won't fit.

For a cheap fix use a sawzall or cutoff wheel and cut one coil off. Go slow so it doesn't get too hot. One coil generally nets about 2", but changes the spring rate and will be slightly stiffer. It will not sag or settle over time, esp if you cut factory springs that have been carrying the weight of the truck for 30 years. Seems that some guys have cut 2 coils off, I've never done that much but it must work because people do it.

Somewhere on this board I've seen a guide to lowering for "free". It involved cutting a round off the coils and relocating the leaf hangers on the frame. Free is a little miss leading because there will be probably $50 in nuts and bolts for the frame, sawzall blades, grinding disks, but it's relatively inexpensive nonetheless and seems like it would produce good results.

EDIT: I guess it's not really miss leading at all.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...75#post3356075

He mentions the bolts, and the time it takes to get the hangers off. I'd expect the same amount of work to be required for putting on aftermarket hangers though.

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by kalbert

There really is no "right" way to lower your truck, but there are lots of "wrong" ways. Heating is always bad for several reasons. They'll never be as hard as they were, and will sag. Even if you just heat them a little bit, they will eventually collapse. Those bolt on compressor things are junk and likely won't fit.

For a cheap fix use a sawzall or cutoff wheel and cut one coil off. Go slow so it doesn't get too hot. One coil generally nets about 2", but changes the spring rate and will be slightly stiffer. It will not sag or settle over time, esp if you cut factory springs that have been carrying the weight of the truck for 30 years. Seems that some guys have cut 2 coils off, I've never done that much but it must work because people do it.

Somewhere on this board I've seen a guide to lowering for "free". It involved cutting a round off the coils and relocating the leaf hangers on the frame. Free is a little miss leading because there will be probably $50 in nuts and bolts for the frame, sawzall blades, grinding disks, but it's relatively inexpensive nonetheless and seems like it would produce good results.

EDIT: I guess it's not really miss leading at all.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...75#post3356075

He mentions the bolts, and the time it takes to get the hangers off. I'd expect the same amount of work to be required for putting on aftermarket hangers though.

so true. the after market hangers do involve the same time no matter what way you try and do it. if you have impact wrench though

[Gordonr1973]

Originally Posted by Big Tex

5/5 DJM Drop. 3"spindles, 2"drop coils, flip in rear. Never did a C-Notch and it rode great. 15X8's front, 15X10 rear with 295/50s.

Beautiful truck!!

Love those rims!

[Big Tex]

Thanks Gordon. It actually photographs better than it actually looks.

[slam59]

Originally Posted by EasySteve

I have 1 ton springs up front with two coils cut and the smaller sway bar, and the front is a million times better than stock. In the rear I have the top and bottom of my 5 original leafs as well as my overload, along with drop hangers on the front. The rear is soft and rides very well with gas magnums, not stiff like stock.

I thought about doing that to the front of mine till I can afford some spindles. Which truck did you get the 1 ton springs out of or did you buy them? Thought about taking some at the salvage yard or that would not be good to do?

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by kalbert

There really is no "right" way to lower your truck, but there are lots of "wrong" ways. Heating is always bad for several reasons. They'll never be as hard as they were, and will sag. Even if you just heat them a little bit, they will eventually collapse. Those bolt on compressor things are junk and likely won't fit.

For a cheap fix use a sawzall or cutoff wheel and cut one coil off. Go slow so it doesn't get too hot. One coil generally nets about 2", but changes the spring rate and will be slightly stiffer. It will not sag or settle over time, esp if you cut factory springs that have been carrying the weight of the truck for 30 years. Seems that some guys have cut 2 coils off, I've never done that much but it must work because people do it.

Somewhere on this board I've seen a guide to lowering for "free". It involved cutting a round off the coils and relocating the leaf hangers on the frame. Free is a little miss leading because there will be probably $50 in nuts and bolts for the frame, sawzall blades, grinding disks, but it's relatively inexpensive nonetheless and seems like it would produce good results.

EDIT: I guess it's not really miss leading at all.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...75#post3356075

He mentions the bolts, and the time it takes to get the hangers off. I'd expect the same amount of work to be required for putting on aftermarket hangers though.

couldnt find the relocation bolt holes on my truck. are the covered by the spring knuckles/hangers?

[chevybuilder18]

O and also im dropping my truck soon, i got money in hand that i have been waiting for and like to have a good stick shift, if you guys could check out my thread for auto to manual tranny swap talk to you later gotta go get the things i need to know what tranny to get!

[long80gmc]

Originally Posted by Skunksmash

You guys cut the coils. Isn't there some company that just sells lowering springs so you don't have the disadvantage of cut coils?

Or maybe bags have taken over that market.

Cutting them is free, and it rides fine.