Projekt Housewyfe

[shoob]

thanks guys, it is a work in progress. as far as the door pins, what exactly do you mean? i used these on my s-10 blazer, and had no issues......are these different? will i need to bore the oem whole out or.......?

[JRANGER]

Yeah my understanding is they are just slightly thicker and you will have to bore it out a little

[shoob]

ill check that out, thanks for the heads up.

[shoob]

so, just came back from chillen' with a few neighbors....kid down the street is FOX body enthusiest (poor guy), and just purchased some pep boys racing seats....

lemme strap my flam suit on........he's selling me his rip free, gray w/ black tweed insert recaro GT seats for $20 for the pair. i think theyll look pretty good in the truck, despite the ford origin.

actual pics when aquired but for now.......

[JRANGER]

Not my cup of tea but they look nice

[shoob]

got a chance to do some work today, sorry no pics, ill post them up tomorrow.

i managed to get to work on the door where the mirrors were mounted.....its bad. i got the first layer of glass filler down and sanded, ill apply the second layer tomorrow. also managed to get my door bent back into shape, where it meets the cab. straightened the body line where the fender meets the a-pillar, and got around to final wiping the passenger rear fender with bondo, as well as the previous glass filler areas, ie: back of the cab, lower cab corner, shaved drip rail, fender badge area, and a few dings on the lower door.

removed the upper chrome grill moulding that needs to be replaced, also noted that my core support is bent to hell, i dont think im gonna mess with the front end till i can find the 84' core support and a hood.....really no reason to.

also heeded the advice i was asking on the forums about cutting the steel bumpstop mounts on the lower control arms out. much better........i has suspension travel now.

and yesterday i got up under the truck and adjusted my toe. it was toed out bad on either side from lowering it. ive been reading about changing out the upper control arm bolts for 4" grade 8 bolts, so i can adjust some of my camber out. ill be looking into changing thoseout this weekend, because i hear, its a pita.

[shoob]

pics as promised....

passenger door closes flush now





have a few coats of filler primer, and 400grit wet sanding to do on the shaved drip rails..





applying the final surface bondo filler over the glass rough filler....






first coat of glass filler on the passenger door....





heres the drivers rear fender......as you can see, i have my work cut out for me....







it rained pretty much all day, so no progress today. work shall press on tomorrow.

[JRANGER]

looking good man!

[chevybuilder18]

liking the drop and the body work ! lookin good

[shoob]

thanks, aside from the body work, im contemplating my next move suspension wise. i know i said i dont wanna modify the frame, im finding some interesting stuff......and well, im a true low life, if mine isnt sitting on the ground, it simply is not low enough.......

hence, my 85' supercharged corolla.






















so ya see.....low and wide is the thing for me. i DD'd this car for a year....100 miles a day, just like that. so im used to driving things that literally have some things on the frame, 1-1.5" off the ground. i dont see where a truck would be any different, static dropped.

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by shoob

thanks, aside from the body work, im contemplating my next move suspension wise. i know i said i dont wanna modify the frame, im finding some interesting stuff......and well, im a true low life, if mine isnt sitting on the ground, it simply is not low enough.......

hence, my 85' supercharged corolla.














so ya see.....low and wide is the thing for me.

maybe if your just static dropping this, which i believe i might go bagged, or old school drop, there has been people to make there ride 'look' lower, but that means the cab, bed, front clip and such would have to go an inch down. now my idea is dropping it with hangers and a flip kit, which i have no idea why you cant do it.. that would be an awsome slam job. if you can get some answers outta these guys why you can't slam one of our rigs with a flip kit and a hanger system then google it lol thats what i do. all i know is ive heard you cant do it which sucks. even the front with drop spindles, geuss we can't put drop arms with the drop spindles

[shoob]

Originally Posted by chevybuilder18

maybe if your just static dropping this, which i believe i might go bagged, or old school drop, there has been people to make there ride 'look' lower, but that means the cab, bed, front clip and such would have to go an inch down. now my idea is dropping it with hangers and a flip kit, which i have no idea why you cant do it.. that would be an awsome slam job. if you can get some answers outta these guys why you can't slam one of our rigs with a flip kit and a hanger system then google it lol thats what i do. all i know is ive heard you cant do it which sucks. even the front with drop spindles, geuss we can't put drop arms with the drop spindles

i already have a flip in the rear, and i just purchased 2" drop shackles. im not happy with the drop the flip kit created, hence the reasearch on moving the oem hangers north a few inches, adding the shackles, and notching. i also cut 2.5 coils in the front and got shuned elsewear in the forum...why? i plan on replacing my upper arm camber/caster bolts to adjust those specs out. my front subframe/cross member currently sits 4/5-5" off of level ground now, so how will 2.5" drop spindles magically make my control arms drag? last i checked 5-2.5=2.5. and honestly when i adjust the camber and caster back out, ill be gaining an 1" of ride height back, that ill just be loosing again when i set up my wheel and tire combo.

now i do see their point on this....the truck was a inline 6 3-speed truck and now has a 350/350 sitting in it, and i just cut the springs, so im sure going with either 3/4 or 1-ton springs with the same amount cut off will help with the "spongy-ness" in the front.

[shoob]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528915

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=534063

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/sm...?topic=22497.0

posting these here for reference.....

ive looked at a few different notch options, and i dont see why i couldnt do it honestly....however.

heres the suck part. the PO welded a 3/16" sheet of steel into the bed, over the wood, and over the bolts to pull the bed off.......

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by shoob

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528915

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=534063

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/sm...?topic=22497.0

posting these here for reference.....

ive looked at a few different notch options, and i dont see why i couldnt do it honestly....however.

heres the suck part. the PO welded a 3/16" sheet of steel into the bed, over the wood, and over the bolts to pull the bed off.......

Honestly JKnight says it can be done. with our steppers though..... there talking about the bed supports. ours are far narrower i believe, we just gotta look and see if it can be done. not impossible on the first thread you showed

[shoob]

bought the hardware today, to "re-bolt" my modified oem hangers back to the frame. also hooked up and inline HVLP fuel pump today and started draining 3/4 a tank of gas out, and pouring it into everything motorized around the house, so the tank will be close to empty when i go to drop it. i dont think this will be as challenging as it seems. i think the most technical part will be drilling the frame properly to make sure i keep the rear axle centerline tracking strait. $30 worth of bolts, bits, and a cutting wheel is better than $120 and a cutting wheel for the aftermarket units anyday.

as far as notching i found an interesting 9 part "how-to" video on you tube, and the guy that done the video, is pretty anal retentive when it comes to structural integrity, so i think ill go with his idea, i like his style =p

C Notch Fabrication Pt. 1 - YouTube

[chevybuilder18]

Originally Posted by shoob

bought the hardware today, to "re-bolt" my modified oem hangers back to the frame. also hooked up and inline HVLP fuel pump today and started draining 3/4 a tank of gas out, and pouring it into everything motorized around the house, so the tank will be close to empty when i go to drop it. i dont think this will be as challenging as it seems. i think the most technical part will be drilling the frame properly to make sure i keep the rear axle centerline tracking strait. $30 worth of bolts, bits, and a cutting wheel is better than $120 and a cutting wheel for the aftermarket units anyday.

as far as notching i found an interesting 9 part "how-to" video on you tube, and the guy that done the video, is pretty anal retentive when it comes to structural integrity, so i think ill go with his idea, i like his style =p

C Notch Fabrication Pt. 1 - YouTube

id go for that, and yea i would understand why he would be so anal with the structural integrity, you wouldnt want to dog track down the road would ya? lol

[shoob]

okay, finally got a day to work on the truck. been working (finally, yay!!) so im no that hurt about it.

i pulled the rearend out today on hopes of getting my drop shackles installed, and working on the front hangers. the bed support rails gave me a bit of an issue. all i had at my disposal today was a 4.5" angle grinder, and that was it. not being able to get my bed off posed a problem trying to cut these, with the leaf spring out of the way and rear of the truck suspended, but i managed to "hack" them out 1 way or another. so i got the hangers installed and clearing,working perfectly. lowered the truck down to have a look before i decided to attack the hangers......trucks level, finally.

i think before i move on with dropping more, i need to focus on tires.

according to ups, my spindles were delivered thursday......but they werent delivered here. so i have a lost claim with ups, and now have to wait on ups to clear before im refunded, credited, whatever (could take up to 180 days!!!O_O)

so my grocery list goes as as follows:


tires 235 60 fr, and 255 60 rear. (currents are 31x9.50)
2.5" spindles
move hangers north
c-notch

after i have the truck sitting how i like it, then ill move to wheel fitment. ill be running my current wheels for a while. found out theyre actually 15x8 truck rallys not 15x7 van rallys. PO put wide bands on them, so they look goofy.

im eye balling some us wheel smoothies, or rally's in 15x10 and 15x8.

[shoob]

also managed to snag the previously mentioned "shot-body" stang seats today from the mustang kid. pulled my bench out and just set the stangs in there for now. (no the trucks not being driven right now). im not happy with how high they sit, so i think im gonna remove the sliders, and weld on some strait mount brackets, to get them about 3" lower to the floor (they sit 2" higher than the oem bench, i wanted to go lower in seating, not higher, also wanted to gain some incline in the back)

from what im looking at, they provide more than enough room for sound equipment, and a nice center console.

i ordered my 2 3/4" tail lights and blue dots as well. ill also be making slim mounts for these when i make the rails for the seat. of course, like always, pics tomorrow.

[JRANGER]

What no pics? lol

[shoob]

i hate rainy days, and the now days of no shop.....

[shoob]

ok, so today, bubba stop by, we did some hinge pin installation, door adjusting, and some more body work. i managed to get a few pics, nothing impressive. definitly in need of the drop spindles now. threw some gas in it, fireditup, let it run a while. the rear driver tire suddenly quit holding air, so think about that in these pics. tomorrow ill try and air it up, pull it out flat and get some pics.

[shoob]

big difference......and still aint done.

[chevybuilder18]

did you raise it back up or did you drop it? i like how it sits in the back on the bottom photo, thats how mine sits, i got 3 inch DJM drop spindles on mine and some plain jain 70s, look how low mine is static, but wanting wider rims and tires! djms 5 inch flip in the rear. i have to adjust the u bolts because they were a lil wider than what i needed, other than that issue i love how it sits.

[shoob]

so far:

flip kit, helper leaf removed
2" drop spindles
front cut 2.5 coils off

waiting on spindles for the front.

once i get the spindles on, if its raked: ill move the front leaf hangers up and inch or 2, to lower the rear out and compensate.

[shoob]

so far:

flip kit, helper leaf removed
2" drop shackles***
front cut 2.5 coils off

waiting on spindles for the front.

once i get the spindles on, if its raked: ill move the front leaf hangers up and inch or 2, to lower the rear out and compensate.