My Quest for Hot Rod Power Tour, Take 2

[yossarian19]

Yeah, that tensioner is supposed to move. It's spring loaded. You should need to put a wrench on it and turn it to take the belt off or put it back on.

Sweet project - looking forward to more updates!

[meter swinger]

The scotts IFS looks great. What did the width of the front end measure out at? looks like you have good tire clearance.
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[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by meter swinger

The scotts IFS looks great. What did the width of the front end measure out at? looks like you have good tire clearance.
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the welds were great on the front end, looked like a work of art.

the tires are moved in 3" from stock, got lots of clearance now, cant turn to full lock when aired down, but i bet it can actually turn enough to drive normal. not that im going to be driving aired down all the way. bad for bags.

[mrhurt73]

well i was going to work on the wiring harness this weekend, i'm making a new use for my pool table ha ha

but i was derailed saturday morning by my niece broke down.
and boy was it broke down.
valve seat got in a bad argument with the piston, guess who won?

[mrhurt73]

alright ford escort disaster on back burner for now, i can work on the hot rod.

but i also thought this was a good time to point out some lessons i learned in this process.

on the Airide AirBar system, the instructions tell you to use the template, like i covered earlier my truck was a heavy half ton. but i thought of a very easy way to correct this problem.

bolt up the front bracket before cutting the notch for the rear bracket. then bolt the axle brackets and perch brackets to the axle. then temporary bolt the 4 link bars up and let the truck down. the 4 link bars are to factory set to measure 26 1/2" long, check this with all 4 bars. all need to be same length.

when you let the truck down it will sit on the frame, allowing you to mark the frame exactly where the centerline is. then you remove the axle to get it out of your way and cut for the rear notch bracket.

i know this is the opposite order the direction will tell you to do it. but if the template doesnt match your frame, this might work for you.

[mrhurt73]

next i figured out doc's blocks no longer does air conditioner adaptors.

so i found this place http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air...ght-out-36.php

now it does come with o-rings even though the website does not say that anywhere.

but it does not come with a bolt, so a shorter length bolt from the factory will have to be found.

[mrhurt73]

and another tip for the rear Airbar install, the instructions tell you to tighten all the 4 link bar bolts with the truck at ride height.

now i dont have any of the air system installed yet, so i came up with another plan. i cut two 9" tall 2x4 wood blocks. and put them in place of the airbags. and tighten all bolts while sitting on the blocks.

and i recieved the correct rear-end bracket for a 12 bolt rear and the bolts that come with the kit are to long, i did run a tap down the hole to make sure it was not grease or other stuff stopping the bolt. I needed to get two 1 1/2" long bolts for the outside bolts and the center bolt holds the brake line it used the supplied 2" bolt.

[mrhurt73]

decided to hoist up front of cab and work on some of the problem areas under there.

[nuke1]

nice truck, and man I need a wife like that " it's ok sweety but I want air ride on your truck to drive it" I wish. lol

[mrhurt73]

i had a lokar shifter in my truck before all this changing out.

but it was mounted to a TH-400, so i called lokar and they actually make a conversion kit to change your shifter over to the 4L60E.

cool i dont have to buy a whole new shifter.

[mrhurt73]

I had the oil pan confusion go on here.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558494

I think i have finally decided Caddy CTS-V pan is the one, but i am going to wait for motor mounts to come back and measure twice and order once. ha ha

After searching GM parts website and LS1tech i found,
caddy oil pan part no 12605814 and part 12598152 both have been superseded by
#12631828 oil pan.

and found a note that says #12611129 deflector is not needed for swaping a truck pan. they are the same part. hmmm who knew?

[mrhurt73]

and i was trying to find out a wiring question here

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=560286

i think the answer i got was correct but i still wonder where this connector goes? it was on same circuit, but came out of harness near pass side head.

[mrhurt73]

and once i started working with the wiring harness, i found a neat trick on how to get the wires out of the plug, first remove the blue or red cover.

then push from the back on which ever wire you want to remove, then take middle finger and pull connector to you and take first finger and pull white tab even closer to you.

as soon as you pull back, pull the wire out with the other hand and it slides right out.

and doesnt everybody rework a harness on an old pool table, ha ha

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by nuke1

nice truck, and man I need a wife like that " it's ok sweety but I want air ride on your truck to drive it" I wish. lol

oh i have a great wife, she is very automotive understanding.

but as you can see buy my other build, i fixed her truck first before mine. ha ha

[mrhurt73]

since i am using the TBSS manifolds i need the factory flanges to bolt up.

i had the factory LM7 y-pipe and i cut the pipes off right at the first converter, and they seem like they are going to work fine.

anybody know if the front o2 sensors are actually the same part no as the back sensors?

[mrhurt73]

on the fuel injectors, i see on here some people are turning the injectors around to be on the intake side of the fuel rail to clean-up the wiring.

do i just grab the injector and twist?

or does the whole fuel rail have to come off to do this?

thought i would ask before trying to twist one off.

[98layinframe]

Very interesting and informative build so far! Cant wait to see it finished!
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[mrhurt73]

stay tuned for the vintage air setup, it is suppossed to be shipping this week sometime, then we get to go through making sure that all fits.

[Wheelie]

On the injectors just twist them but you may want to loosen the rail bolts if any of them don't twist with light pressure. On your rear o2's just send off your ecu and have them turned off. That's what we do at my shop and its no biggie. Not sure on part #.
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[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by Wheelie

On the injectors just twist them but you may want to loosen the rail bolts if any of them don't twist with light pressure.
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whoever came up with the idea first, bravo to them, it makes a world of difference in the looks.

[mrhurt73]

worked on the transmission wiring last night and this link had some good pictures in it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=559354

also when i mentioned you have to heat the connector to remove it,

dont do like i did, i layed it down while i was so exicted it worked. it cooled with the end connector of center. now i am going to have to heat it back up just to plug it in. arrggggghh.

[mrhurt73]

yes silly transmission connector had to take picture.
will have to heat it backup to get it straight.

also asked another wiring question here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=560997

its a question on oil pressure switch if it can be used for aftermarket gauge.

[mrhurt73]

picked up exhaust gaskets for manifold to y-pipe connections and new a/c belt.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by mrhurt73

stay tuned for the vintage air setup, it is suppossed to be shipping this week sometime, then we get to go through making sure that all fits.

Have fun, if you got the "sure-fit" kit, it does, but is very tight.

[mrhurt73]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Have fun, if you got the "sure-fit" kit, it does, but is very tight.

yeah i got sure-fit kit, checked out you truck build, very nice.