Will .030" Fluxcore Work for Minor Rust Repair?

[Dan in Pasadena]

STUPID QUESTION ALERT!

Do I need to detach the battery ground cable or do ANYTHING to protect (my new!) alternator before I weld ON the truck?
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[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

STUPID QUESTION ALERT!

Do I need to detach the battery ground cable or do ANYTHING to protect (my new!) alternator before I weld ON the truck?
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I would. just incase

[hotrodrookie]

Good for you on stepping up to the gas setup on your welder Dan. Like Kim mentioned earlier, welding on very thin metal will most likely blow that 1/8" hole into a 1/2" one. Don't be surprised if you need to cut out a small patch until you get into some full thickness material.

Do not put Teflon tape on any of the gas fittings from the tank to your machine.

I wouldn't bother with the HF stick welding gloves, or any stick welding gloves for that matter. Just get some thin leather gloves, they don't have to be TIG gloves (Tillman 24c are my favorite) but even some like these http://www.harborfreight.com/leather...ves-34544.html Keep in mind that you should also be wearing sleeves, and that you shouldn't be touching hot metal. They'll be fine at protecting your hands from any small spatter that you may experience. Again, this suggestion is based off usage being for the process of stitch welding thin sheetmetal together. If you're going to do continuous welding, get some mig gloves.

Additionally, be sure to keep the tip clean and always have a pair of wire cutters on hand. Don't start a new weld with the leftover ball from the previous arc. For continuous use, use Pam cooking spray on the nozzle and any parts you don't want spatter to stick to, don't bother with any anti-spatter spray.

If you plan on upgrading your helmet, I would look at Jackson. The Shadow style hood has been tried and true. Very large viewport, and interchanges a majority of their lenses. With that you can start out with one of their lesser expensive auto lenses, and still be able to upgrade in the future. If you do go this route, get the 370 headgear, very comfortable.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by hotrodrookie

Good for you on stepping up to the gas setup on your welder Dan. Like Kim mentioned earlier, welding on very thin metal will most likely blow that 1/8" hole into a 1/2" one. Don't be surprised if you need to cut out a small patch until you get into some full thickness material.

Do not put Teflon tape on any of the gas fittings from the tank to your machine.

I wouldn't bother with the HF stick welding gloves, or any stick welding gloves for that matter. Just get some thin leather gloves, they don't have to be TIG gloves (Tillman 24c are my favorite) but even some like these http://www.harborfreight.com/leather...ves-34544.html Keep in mind that you should also be wearing sleeves, and that you shouldn't be touching hot metal. They'll be fine at protecting your hands from any small spatter that you may experience. Again, this suggestion is based off usage being for the process of stitch welding thin sheetmetal together. If you're going to do continuous welding, get some mig gloves.

Additionally, be sure to keep the tip clean and always have a pair of wire cutters on hand. Don't start a new weld with the leftover ball from the previous arc. For continuous use, use Pam cooking spray on the nozzle and any parts you don't want spatter to stick to, don't bother with any anti-spatter spray.

If you plan on upgrading your helmet, I would look at Jackson. The Shadow style hood has been tried and true. Very large viewport, and interchanges a majority of their lenses. With that you can start out with one of their lesser expensive auto lenses, and still be able to upgrade in the future. If you do go this route, get the 370 headgear, very comfortable.

All good advice.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Rookie,

Thanks for taking the time to write all the good info for a TRUE "rookie."

I plan on wearing a long sleeved T shirt while doing this work and yes, I know to cut off the blob. I bought MIG pliers.

Excellent advice on the PAM. I'd never heard that before and especially not putting it on the nozzle. It won't just burn off shortly?

Denee said above to cut off the wire even with the tip. When I was flux core welding I would leave a "stick out" of maybe 1/4". What's your recommendation? I know you don't want wire getting into the puddle before the gas gets there.

P.S. On the small 1/8" holes I planned to run my step bit through the hole til I get to solid metal. If I DON'T get solid metal, then I know I've gotta cut out a much bigger patch and use replacement metal from a donor 55-59 door I have just for that purpose.

[hotrodrookie]

It does burn off on the nozzle, but so does the anti-spatter stuff. It just depends on what your doing and how dirty the nozzle is getting. If you push the puddle, you'll get more build up rather than pulling it when laying down a bead. It's good practice to use some sort of anti spatter agent on the nozzle during high build up situations, you most likely wont need to bother too much when using the tack method on sheet metal.

As far as stickout goes, it doesn't hurt to have it even with the nozzle, (not contact tip). But to be honest, that is something you'll get a feel for. get two pieces of scrap and practice your butt welds. Vary the gap between the two pieces. See the difference in penetration between no gap, up to a wire width. Vary the length of the wire stickout and see how the arc starting differs. See the difference when starting after a previous weld (not starting with fresh cut wire). See the difference in starting on top of a previous weld nugget vs. two bare sheets vs. a ground down nugget. There are many variables that will decide how the arc starting will react, and how the weld will sink in and lay between the two pieces of metal.

I like to set a gap in order to ensure full penetration with the tacks, but that's just me. Others may advise no gap and a little hotter to burn through, either way they both work, whichever gets the job done.

All that said, be aware of shrinkage and crowing of the weld bead. When things get hot they are going to move. I would also invest in a set of hammer and dollys. The set I got from HF has held up pretty well.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Those tacks in your first photo look great, like little chrome BB's. Exactly what I hope to achieve.

What you're describing is "playing" with it a bit and watching for what the outcome is. I'm jonesing to get started on the truck but I suppose it makes more sense to pull my donor door out, drill a few holes and fill 'em up. Ok, I'll do it....but I know it won't be long before I'm talking myself into doing a couple of smaller holes in the truck, ha ha!

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Those tacks in your first photo look great, like little chrome BB's. Exactly what I hope to achieve.

What you're describing is "playing" with it a bit and watching for what the outcome is. I'm jonesing to get started on the truck but I suppose it makes more sense to pull my donor door out, drill a few holes and fill 'em up. Ok, I'll do it....but I know it won't be long before I'm talking myself into doing a couple of smaller holes in the truck, ha ha!

on holes I do a short burst and let off letting the wire "freeze" in the puddle. then do another until the hole is filled For holes of over 1/4" get one of these.

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding-spoon-66785.html

they prevent the weld from falling through. I think Eastwood sells one with a magnet on it.

[mknittle]

leave the stick out about 3/8" but cut the very end off because if you don't the little "ball" that sticks to the wire wont always make contact and will pop due to contamination. you'll see

Oh yeah go easy on the nozzle spray. My dad uses so much the loner gums up.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mknittle

...My dad uses so much the loner gums up.

"loner"??

Yeah, I bought the spoon thing already.

mknittle - "letting the wire freeze in the puddle..." You don't mean actually let the wire become stuck in the puddle, do you? So I'd have to cut off the wire? Or do you mean to just momentarily allow the puddle to start to "gel"?

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

"loner"??

Yeah, I bought the spoon thing already.

mknittle - "letting the wire freeze in the puddle..." You don't mean actually let the wire become stuck in the puddle, do you? So I'd have to cut off the wire? Or do you mean to just momentarily allow the puddle to start to "gel"?

Sorry Dan I ment liner lol

And yes that is exactly what I mean. when you let the puddle gel the wire still has contact. I let the puddle cool enough that I can no longer see it glow. sometimes longer with 18 ga. Friday I welded up 19 holes in my frame up to 1/2" dia.

when you pull the wire away that some of the puddle sticks to the end of the wire and often insulates the wire. then when you pull the trigger the gun feeds wire but with no contact. that is why I cut the end off.

I hope I understood your question and gave the answer you were looking for. If not let me know.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, sounds right. The wire will come off with a bit larger "blob" than if I just pulled away immediately after letting go of the trigger. Then I just clip off the blob and go to the next location.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ok, sounds right. The wire will come off with a bit larger "blob" than if I just pulled away immediately after letting go of the trigger. Then I just clip off the blob and go to the next location.

Yeah It's just easier that way. once you get the feel of it you will know what you can do. Everybody is a bit different.

[Dan in Pasadena]

A weld repair tool related question:

I'm going to have to cut sheet metal patch pieces off my donor door. I have thin 4" cutting wheels for my angle grinders, I have a jig saw for the larger pieces - like the 4+" speaker hole fillers I'm going to have to make. But I need to know what kind of "sandpaper" what abrasive sheet material to buy to glue to my stationary belt/disc sander?

I want to make good, closely fitting patches.
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