1966 F100 Short/Fleet Full Stock Resto Build Thread

[plainred65]

Amazing work, you never disappoint!

[ColoradoK5]

WOW great resto!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by plainred65

Amazing work, you never disappoint!

Originally Posted by ColoradoK5

WOW great resto!

Thanks guys!!


We converted the oil bath on the '66 to a paper filter using a universal 9" round Mr Gasket air cleaner. The height is perfect to keep the outer lid in the right position. No need to fabricate or weld in upper/lower plates to seal the filter or hunt around for the right filter. The original fiber filter was falling apart so we didn't want any of it getting it in the engine. Also didn't want it backfiring and puking oil all over the detailed engine!


Uncrimped the inner flange and cut the "spokes" around the edges to remove the old filter material that was disintegrating.




I still need to remove the inner ring on the original lid for more filter clearance.




The new air filter base fits perfectly over the original base. I will drill ~1" holes around the perimeter of the original base for easier air intake.










Just enough of the stud sticks through for the wingnut.






Finished up the mods on the air cleaner- drilling holes in the base for better air flow and cutting out the inner ring of the lid to clear the new inner filter. Then blasted and primed it with DPLF epoxy.




The new fuel lines came in so they're installed with new stainless clamps.

[hopped up]

Very nice work!! Great attention to details that many will never even see
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[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by hopped up

Very nice work!! Great attention to details that many will never even see
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks hopped up!!


Just painted/detailed the tie rods.




Cleaned the boots with 3M adhesive remover to clean the mold release wax off, then applied Duragloss Rubber and Vinyl Dressing, before and after.

[theastronaut]

Air filter lid was sprayed with epoxy, minor dings filled and blocked flat, shot with high build, then flat areas blocked with 180, then wetsanded with 600. I sprayed it with the same single stage urethane we've been using, but added 25% flattener instead of the usual 33%.

[CC69Rat]

You sir are the man..
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[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

You sir are the man..
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks Chad! I know you'll appreciate the next update... I wetsanded/buffed the air filter lid, didn't like the slightly dull finish.

[chevyrestoguy]

Again.........Speechless.

Top notch work, John!

[72BlckButy]

Killer work!
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[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Again.........Speechless.

Top notch work, John!

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

Killer work!
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks dudes!!


Stuck the repop decal on the lid. Can't wait to get the carb back from being rebuilt/restored so we can install it and the filter back on the engine.

[theastronaut]

The carb came back today and it looks great! Also picked up some NOS clamps for the heater hoses and water pump bypass.






Chucked the clamps in the bead blaster and lightly went over them to brighten them up a bit.

[theastronaut]

Carb, spacer, and filter in place.

[aggie91]

WOW, I am amazed with your work.

[duallyjams]

Originally Posted by aggie91

WOW, I am amazed with your work.

He only has one speed PERFECTION

[manimal]

That is AMAZING work!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by aggie91

WOW, I am amazed with your work.

Originally Posted by duallyjams

He only has one speed PERFECTION

Originally Posted by manimal

That is AMAZING work!

Thanks dudes!!!



I forgot to post these the other day, so here they are.


We cut out the floor pans and started trimming the new ones to fit. The don't fit well and they're missing the upper outside edges so we'll have to make those and weld them on. The inner rockers are mostly good except for the very front area where the hinge pillar meets up and overlaps. Whoever designed the way the cab metal assembles was an idiot... and further cements the reasons why I'm a Chevy guy




Screwed in over the original pans to mark the trim lines.




Cutting the floors out.




Making a template for the seat risor area.




Right side inner kick panel rust. This area is a PAIN to work around, and the layers of sandwiched metal layers is impossible to fix without tearing out good metal around it.




Upper kick panel edge along the toe boards.




The floor flange that welds to the kick panel underneath the truck, this was missing completely on the new pans... :-roll






The cab mount plates are solid.




Lower kick panel edge from the outside.




Drilled the spot welds...




Making the new floor pan flange to weld to the kick panel.




The inner rocker rust.




Starting to drill the spot welds and separate the inner rocker from the other layered panels.

[theastronaut]

Started back on the right side rust repair today, got everything cut out and a couple pieces ready to weld back in.

Started by drilling the spot welds. These weren't welded to anything though...




Separating the layers.




Inner rocker out, exposing whats left of the kick panel layer.




Inside half of the inner rocker.




Making a paper template to fix the rusted spot.




Template transfered to metal, and I rolled a bead along the spot what will be the edge once its bent.




Bending the edge in the metal brake.




Edge detail.




Front edge folded up straight like the original piece.




Both pieces bead blasted, marking the original for cutting.

[theastronaut]

Marked the lower cowl for cutting.




More hidden rust.




Cutting out the kick panel.




Floors, inner rocker, and kick panel rust completely cut out.




Ready for sandblasting, priming, and fitting/welding the new panels.




Fabbed and fitted the rear floor panel.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Amazing work for sure... Keep up the good work your builds are always so informative..

[plainred65]

Wow, I'm thinking there's not a truck too far gone for you to bring back. Those look like complicated pieces to make with all those multiple bends and angles. I would love to be able to make panels like that.

[aggie91]

That is a ton of work and a bunch of rust. Your work is top notch. I wish you were closer, I could have you do my cab for me...Oh Well, guess I'll have to learn from your work and pictures here...

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

Amazing work for sure... Keep up the good work your builds are always so informative..

Thanks Frenchblue!!

Originally Posted by plainred65

Wow, I'm thinking there's not a truck too far gone for you to bring back. Those look like complicated pieces to make with all those multiple bends and angles. I would love to be able to make panels like that.

Thanks plainred, but we have limited tools and I'm still learning. But compared to many, this amount of rust is mild... very mild! Take a look over on thesamba.com in the Barndoor Bus section and have a look at what those guys are saving... That basket of green patch panels are just a little bit of the patch panels going into this bus... 10k worth of patch panels isn't unheard of in the Barndoor bus world!!

Here's the build thread.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=471779

Originally Posted by aggie91

That is a ton of work and a bunch of rust. Your work is top notch. I wish you were closer, I could have you do my cab for me...Oh Well, guess I'll have to learn from your work and pictures here...

Thanks Karl, yall are doing a great job on your son's truck!!

[theastronaut]

Made the passenger side kick panel today. Had a couple beads to roll in it and I had to form a curved 90* flange on one edge.










I started comparing the original inner kick panel on the driver side to the patch I made yesterday, and there were differences that I didn't catch. The passenger side was rusted away badly and the template I made from that didn't carry over the original shape well enough. So I made a new template from the driver side and made two new pieces, L&R.


This shows the curved top flange that I made straight on yesterday's piece.




Making the top flanges.




Rolled a bead on the edge.




Welding the flange to the new inner rocker patch.








Smoothing the welds with a 2" grinder, being careful not to lose the details of the rolled edge.




Sanded with the DA to smooth the grinding marks.




Panel for the other side.

[chevyrestoguy]

.... Whoever designed the way the cab metal assembles was an idiot... and further cements the reasons why I'm a Chevy guy

I agree 1000%. If you compare a Chevy/GMC cab to a comparable year Ford, there's no comparison. Ford likes to single-wall in places that GM will double wall. The GM cabs are WAY stronger structurally. The make-up of the Ford cab is such that it was like it was built backwards. The overlays are completely backwards, like you unfortunately discovered. You wind up damaging good metal on top in order to fix the bad metal underneath because the wrong part is flanged and spot-welded in an area that's completely inaccessable.

I know most guys are brand loyal, done to the bone. I have had the "discussion" with the Ford guys about the comparison of the '60s Ford and Chevy trucks, and have laid out all the differences. EVERY aspect of the Chevy is better, from the suspension, the engine, the transmission, and the body structure. I will give Ford credit in one area, though. Whoever designed their door latches did a great job. You can go to any clapped out Ford in the wrecking yard, and the doors close and latch soooo nice.

Other than that, their trucks are not even close.