old skool way...?

[lasher78]

and if i decide to just break down and buy drop springs can someone tell me or post links as to where to buy best full kit for good price...i was going to post some pics of teuck as it sits now so everyone can give me recommendations of how much of a drop they would suggest to get it a little lower and leveled out but site will not let me post them will try to take new one in amaller size tomro and try posting...sure wish they would get this site fixed so could post pics like used to. point shoot click post.
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[tincan1966]

WOW I am amazed at some of the posts on this.

I agree with the ones about NOT cutting rear springs.
Just my opinion, it's a backyard hack way of doing it and very unsafe.

There's way too much emphasis on "budget" and "doing it cheap" that scares the beegeezus out of me here on a lot of forums.

SAFETY has no price.

Of coarse, our opinion is jaded, slightly, we run a business and have to consider any consequences associated with shade tree type work. We do not need to stress test our insurance deductible.

Something else to consider:
IF you were involved in an accident and there was suspected faulty or unsafely modified equipment, insurance company may not pay and you would be personally responsible for any and all damages to all parties involved. Insurance companies are doing their best to eliminate old vehicles, anyway and always looking for a reason to not pay out.
I, for one and sure not too many can, afford a million dollar lawsuit because I wouldn't spend $100 on a safe way of doing things.

Again, just my opinion, and do what you want with your truck, I am not here to judge, just bringing up a few other points to ponder and consider in the approach of modifying your vehicle.

[ol_skool_chevy]

Your all really missing the whole point of my answer regarding cutting the springs. I know there's far superior ways yo lower a truck. lower springs, drop spindles just to name two....BUT please read the title of this thread and read his first post.......
Clearly its title is " old skool way..." with that back in the old days we did not have drop springs made...we had to make them ourselves...I know because we had to cut them......and it works...your right there are better ways...but then again read his first post..........he said clearly " $o budget " Means NO MONEY.
so don't feel too amazed at a answer that directly answers his question.
I fully agree he should save him money and buy drop springs or spindles though in this more modern times where we have then available now

[Frizzle Fry]

Ok guys, this is a good conversation and I appreciate everyone's level-headed approach to the discussion. I am always open to being convinced I'm wrong (it's happened once or twice before ).

I'm not one to give shoddy advice. I'm actually usually the first to point out something that's not quite right (Ol Skool can attest to that). I go out of my way to do things right, so when it came to doing this I didn't just jump right in without giving it some thought. Could it be considered closer to the ghetto end of the spectrum? Sure. Unsafe? I'm not convinced.

A few inputs from me:

1st, the lower spring is not tilted because it is simply resting on the TA (no clamp).

2nd, Someone in the unsafe camp please describe for everyone a failure scenario in which this would produce an unsafe condition.

3rd, Anyone with any real experience with this setup who thinks it's unsafe please let yourself be heard.

Btw, This has been my daily driver for over 2 years (maybe 3) and I like to take corners hard/fast. Twisty mountain roads etc. I've also hauled a 500lb wood stove with it this way. No issues.

Here are the pics:

[ol_skool_chevy]

I think just to add, You could if you felt it was unsafe for any reason just add a simple pipe stock cup to place your spring into on top of your trailing arms.
I have never found it necessary..
And Yes I can attest That Frizzel Fry Will be one of the First to point out something that's not quite right or could be done better........But were all friends here and can learn with a open mind without arguing we both have learned new outside the box ideas from each other.....
And what's Hot Rodding without a little danger anyway?

[19666Trucker]

Thanks old school and frizzy fry, where would be If every stayed stock.
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[lasher78]

here is a photo of its stance know. how many inches would any one suggest not wanting it on ground just little lower in front and then leveled in back
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[lasher78]

i tell you what posting pics on this site sure has started to suck. camera on phone set to smallest size and this dang site still says to large a file. says only 109kb accepted. come on get with the modern age. the crappiest cameras produce lager files than that. now you cant be out workin on ur truck snap a quick photo with ur phone and post it askin for help, instead you have to take the time to crop photo make it smaller and hope like hell this site will take it and that you still have what u want in the photo..not all of us have desktop computers and mess with sites such as photobuxket and whatnot( who has the rime). so come on fix the site so us little o folk wirh camera phones can post easy again. im done with the soapbox rant now...
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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by lasher78

i tell you what posting pics on this site sure has started to suck. camera on phone set to smallest size and this dang site still says to large a file. says only 109kb accepted. come on get with the modern age. the crappiest cameras produce lager files than that. now you cant be out workin on ur truck snap a quick photo with ur phone and post it askin for help, instead you have to take the time to crop photo make it smaller and hope like hell this site will take it and that you still have what u want in the photo..not all of us have desktop computers and mess with sites such as photobuxket and whatnot( who has the rime). so come on fix the site so us little o folk wirh camera phones can post easy again. im done with the soapbox rant now...
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Lots of places will let you resize them. I use Windypix.com and resize to 800x600. Fits perfect.

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi

Lots of places will let you resize them. I use Windypix.com and resize to 800x600. Fits perfect.

my camera set to 640x480 so you tell me....ever since they started messin with servers on this site it hasnt been right. i shouldnt have to resize photo to postit.
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[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by lasher78

my camera set to 640x480 so you tell me....ever since they started messin with servers on this site it hasnt been right. i shouldnt have to resize photo to postit.
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Yeah but raw jpg 640x480 is bigger than one web optimized. Resizing there just makes it easy.

I agree though. It should be set bigger. When I'm dictator things will be different. Till then I step in line like everyone else.

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by FetchMeAPepsi

Yeah but raw jpg 640x480 is bigger than one web optimized. Resizing there just makes it easy.

I agree though. It should be set bigger. When I'm dictator things will be different. Till then I step in line like everyone else.

guess i just wont be postin any more pics cause i do all this on my phone since im not like alot of these guys with fancy shops with computer systems and t1 connections to the internet. im just a poor factory worker tryin to play with his truck under a tree.
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[T Smith]

Would someone educate me on exactly what is so unsafe about a cut coil? What can actually go wrong? At worst the truck will just drop to the bumpstops, it ain't like you're gonna loose control or anything.

Too much ado about nothing...

[lasher78]

well heres a shot of my panhard bar I Dont think its factory..what do u think. looks like someone cut and rewelded it already.
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[lasher78]

and could someone look at above posted photo of truck and tell me what they would do a 2" 4", a 3" 5" drop?
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[T Smith]

What are you going to use for wheels and tires? You're not going to drop it much with those positive offset wheels that are on it now. Ultimately only you can answer how far to drop it, it's your truck and you know the look you're after.

Yes, that panhard bar has already been modified.

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by T Smith

What are you going to use for wheels and tires? You're not going to drop it much with those positive offset wheels that are on it now. Ultimately only you can answer how far to drop it, it's your truck and you know the look you're after.

Yes, that panhard bar has already been modified.

well was wanting to keep the rallies and just get it a little lower and level. that was kind of the whole point in this thread about heating rear coils to set down a little in rear and cut 1.5 coils from front( was told that equated to 2")
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[ol_skool_chevy]

I will tell you the same thing I tell anyone that's is lowering their truck..or car by cutting the springs
Start with blocks...after you have used blocks cut a 1/2 a coil at a time on both sides..put the truck on its own height and check for clearance issues or if you like it. If you want more just cut another coil and put the truck back on its own height and check again until you have what you want.
Above all else...........use good jack stands..and cut safe..
And as Frizzle Fry will tell you...DONT GET HOT BURNING STEEL MAGMA FROM YOUR PLASMA CUTTER IN YOUR EAR...........inside joke

[Frizzle Fry]

Molten steel in the ear is step-1 of the lowering procedure

As I mentioned, I plan on going to Jeep rear coils for the softer ride vs. what I have now (it's a little "sporty"). For what you want (cheap), I'd recommend finding a set of the Jeep coils and just go straight to that instead of cut or heated rears. Then cut the fronts incrementally until you find the stance you like.

If you have any fabrication skills then you can make your own lowering blocks and buy some longer U-Bolts (I've made u-bolts too) for the rear. Lowering blocks retain a stock ride in both spring and dampening. Travel is reduced, but you can trim your bump-stops to restore some (mine are removed entirely).

For a 4" or 5" rear drop you will need more than just lowering blocks though. Lowering blocks should be limited to a size that does not put the U-Bolt below the rim. On 15" wheels that's about 2-2.5".

[lasher78]

Originally Posted by ol_skool_chevy

I will tell you the same thing I tell anyone that's is lowering their truck..or car by cutting the springs
Start with blocks...after you have used blocks cut a 1/2 a coil at a time on both sides..put the truck on its own height and check for clearance issues or if you like it. If you want more just cut another coil and put the truck back on its own height and check again until you have what you want.
Above all else...........use good jack stands..and cut safe..
And as Frizzle Fry will tell you...DONT GET HOT BURNING STEEL MAGMA FROM YOUR PLASMA CUTTER IN YOUR EAR...........inside joke

ok.i guessing you are referring to the rear. the whole block thing confuses me..i understand how to use blocks at achieve lifting a truck but not lowering one..maybe some could post pic of block being used to lower.
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[lasher78]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Molten steel in the ear is step-1 of the lowering procedure

As I mentioned, I plan on going to Jeep rear coils for the softer ride vs. what I have now (it's a little "sporty"). For what you want (cheap), I'd recommend finding a set of the Jeep coils and just go straight to that instead of cut or heated rears. Then cut the fronts incrementally until you find the stance you like.

If you have any fabrication skills then you can make your own lowering blocks and buy some longer U-Bolts (I've made u-bolts too) for the rear. Lowering blocks retain a stock ride in both spring and dampening. Travel is reduced, but you can trim your bump-stops to restore some (mine are removed entirely).

For a 4" or 5" rear drop you will need more than just lowering blocks though. Lowering blocks should be limited to a size that does not put the U-Bolt below the rim. On 15" wheels that's about 2-2.5".

i think i will skip the molten steel in ear bit

but pics of a block being used to lower....all the ones i looked up say for leaf spring?
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[ol_skool_chevy]

Same idea.........Same blocks you just place then between the rear end tubes and the trailing arm

[lasher78]

thanks for pic at least now i know where to pit it...but just call me dumb still dont see how that lowers it would spring still.hold it up at same height.but anyway does a 2" block really drop it 2" or is it actually less?
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[ol_skool_chevy]

if you put in a 2" block only....your 2" lower.............simple as that..

[racecougar]

Originally Posted by lasher78

...but just call me dumb still dont see how that lowers it would spring still.hold it up at same height.but anyway does a 2" block really drop it 2" or is it actually less?

The spring is on the trailing arm rather than the axle. Putting a 2" block between the trailing arm and the axle drops the ride height by 2".