Project "HOT WRECK" 62 Short box DUALLY

[jkeating1]

I can't wait to see more of this! Weld porn!

[Bomp]

Originally Posted by HOT WRECKS

Squared up the frame to the hoist on which I have already have the 115'' WB marked out. marked the frame for the axle centre line, then measured from there forward and back for the attaching points of the spring hangers (I recorded these measurements before I took disassemble the original hangers)

I squared up and measured, strings everywhere, plumb bobs ahangin’, levels a leveling, even broke out the lazer to help sight things, wrote down everything, EVERYTHING. Then Dad came over and swiped my folder with all the info.

What did I learn from all that? Keep all your information under lock and key!

Been waiting for your update,,,,,,,Looks great.

[HOT WRECKS]

this is the rear shackle/spring hanger lower bracket that was originally riveted to the bottom side of the frame rail. I cut off 2'' of it which contained the two rivet holes then welded it 2'' higher onto the side of the frame at the designated measurement from axle centre line.

here is the outer rear shackle/spring hanger with 2'' cut off the top and three relief cuts in its side, mounted over the inner bracket. Also not very visible in this picture is the four plug welds that have been ground down. you can just see the bottom left plug weld


With some oxy/acetylene and a moderate sized persuader the bracket now looks like this



here is the side of the bracket welder and ground smooth

[Bomp]

Dang that is Slick.

First thing you made me think is "Now I gotta redo my cab mounts."

Good show Man, GOOD SHOW

[HOT WRECKS]

YEAH!!!!! Frame rails and spring brackets completed!! NOTE: NO OTHER FRAME RAILS WERE HARMED IN THE MAKING OF THIS FRAME (100% RECYCLED!!!) FROM THE SAME TRUCK

probably welded up at least 200 factory holes in frame rails from the cab back.

I wanted all my fishplates on the inside of the frame rails, so that face of the rails were smooth. But that still wasn't good enough for me (I am my own worst critic) so using
die grinder, carbide bits and hard rolls I cleaned up all welds on all 8 of the fish plates inside the frame rails. WHAT A PAIN IN THE A$$.

I ground and smoothed all the welds inside and out of all four spring hangers.
the small hole at the bottom of the hanger is to allow water to drain out

finished rear spring/shackle hanger

here's a fun picture of the original hard brake line. this would be hooked to the 6'' rubber line going to the centre of the rear diff. now its at the rear most of the frame rail.
The white cross member is in its original location, for now. I used it to help make sure the frame rails were parallel while I was squaring and welding frame
I will be moving it as far forward as possible, and welding in a class 5 receiver at the end of the frame rails. Then installing my gas tank in between them.

[Low Elco]

Looks like good work! Git you some!

[aggie91]

Wow, thats been a bunch of cutting and welding, let alone the grinding you have done. Looks like your on track for the 15th.

Tuning in to see this one to the end.

[Bomp]

That is the cleanest frame work inside and out I think I've ever seen.
Totally Top Notch.

[duallyjams]

Dually's are cool.

[1963c-10]

Some awesome work...really cool build.

[aggie91]

HOT WRECKS - what's the latest on this one. Its almost been 3 months with no update...

[BIG V]

Looking good

[HOT WRECKS]

Hello all
Thanks Bomp for bringing up my build page from hibernation. And thanks for the kind words. Its been a tough winter up here in the Great White North. Its started to snow the day after Halloween, and hasn't really stopped. Its still snowing as I type this. Enough all ready!!! and the temperatures have not been very pleasant at all!! The coldest temperatures for the longest run that I can ever remember. In February we even had a few nights go to -43C -45F now that cold!! To put that into perspective propane's boiling point is -42C so on those nights I could literally pour myself a cup of liquid propane. Are average temps are suppose to be about 5C to -15C that's 41F to 5F With are famous Chinooks going all the way up to 15 to 17C 59 to 63F. No Chinooks this year though. So needless to say I've been hiding in doors.
I also had lasik eye surgery performed. Cost me $3000. So I've been working almost every Saturday to pay that credit card off.

Ok lets talk truck now. There has been some progress even though its been slow. 1st I have opted NOT to use the 1980 C30 floor board in the 1962 cab, for a couple reasons. 1st my 1962 cab really is not in that good of shape, and I will be keeping my eyes open for a better condition cab. If I go though all the work installing the 1980 floor into the 1962 cab then find a better cab I would have to do it all over again. That's not going to happen. So for ease of simpleness 1962 cab 1962 floors. That means that I now have to modify the frame. but at least it will be a one time modification. since I am using a 1 ton frame I have lots of frame to notch. Total of 8 inches tall so notching it 1''-2'' should be no problem. my rear cab mounts will be welded on like my spring hangers, but the front mounts will be bolted on so that if I find a 1963 or choose to use a 1964-66 cab I will be able to change the front cab brackets to match the cab floor.
So where I am right now? Had to order in some valve stems from the tire store for my 1980 dually rims. They have a oval rubber gasket that inserts into an oval hole in the rim. Then I can mount the wheels on the frame remove the truck from the hoist. Turn it around in my ally. (Pending snow)roll the cab onto the hoist, then hang it from my ceiling and roll the truck frame back under. Start fabricating cab notch and mounts.

[98Murray]

Awesome build! I liked that welding bed

[Bomp]

That is some flat out stinkin cold weather you've been through. Glad the surgery went well. Seeing better is always a plus.
Your work is the tops. Can't wait to see the truck spun around and posting again.

[Slammed66]

Lookin forward to more progress!!!

I'm just up the street from you guys, keep it up

[HOT WRECKS]

heres a few pictures until I get started on the frame mods to fit the cab


C&C (cab&chassis) 14 bolt. Super narrow coming in at 63.7'' wide. Wheel Mounting Surface to WMS. shock and leaf spring pads removed.


big crack running almost the entire length of the weld holding the backing plate flange to the housing.


sandblasted and re-built leaf springs with polyurethane bushings.


front 205/50-16 test size tires mounted on rims to roll frame around on


rear rollers 205/60-16

[98Murray]

Great update!! Those are some good looking wheels

[azdude1964]

woooooo nice looking wheels, why with the white springs? Is'nt gonna be hard to keep clean?

[SCOTI]

Subscribed.... Love the details!

[TJ's Chevy]

Looking good! This is gonna be one heck of a dream truck! lol

[Bomp]

Weather ought to have gotten warm enough for some of that there shop time.....

On that big crack running almost the entire length of the weld holding the backing plate flange to the housing. As long as its not in the axle tube it should be an easy fix.

Diggin the build.

[HOT WRECKS]

Ok it's been awhile since I've had time to work on my HOT WRECK. Life went and got in the way of happy time. It's just the way it is. I've been able to do some work to it lately which make me very happy! But my computer packed it in, so I have not been able to up date my thread. Now with new computer in hand it's time to get is thread up to speed.

Originally I was going to section the 1962 cab over the 1980 floor pan. I have since decided against this route for the ease of cab swap if required
So.....this is what I have done to mount a 1960-66 cab nice and low on a 1980 C30 frame.
*NOTE* The only reason I could do what I describe below is because I started with a C30 1 ton frame that is 8" tall. this will not work with a 1/2 ton frame which is around 5" tall

the lower black line on the frame represents the continuation of the top of the 1980 C30 frame which would be the flat portion of the 1960-66 frame. But I can't remove that much frame to make the 1980 C30 frame flat, I'd. only be left with 3" of frame. After checking some rear cab mounting measurements on a few different years of trucks from 1960-66 I learned that the cab on the rear mount sits 2" above the top of the frame. So I added 2" above the top of the original black line this is the upper line on the frame. This is where I will be cutting the frame. once my cab is mounted I will only have about 1/8'' of clearance between the frame and the mounting brace of the cab


top of frame cut off all factory holes in frame filled


top of frame capped

backside picture. You can see the one piece 5/16 vertical plate I installed from top to bottom of the frame.And the new portion of the top of the frame welded to it. Can't be seen in picture but I also drilled 5/8'' holes in the 5/16'' plate for fuel and brake lines to run through

[Grizz1963]

This is another one of those builds that leave my jaw dropping at the skills you guys exhibit.

Looking at your welds, I realize just how bad my work is.

Your attention to detail really does inspire.

Glad you are back on the build.

[flashed]

This build is one of my favorites .