64 Chev C10 Slam (Noob Style)

[NEWFISHER]

My main tank line comes into the cab and T's to two lines...front and rear. Each of these feed lines T again for left and right and plug into the feed in on the switches. From the lower portion of each switch, a dedicated line runs to each bag. The switch has its own exhaust port to "lower" or deflate the bag back through the bag supply line.

[64chevtruck]

Thanks alot M8. Ill get the lines finished up today then, Thank you for your time spent pumping info into my thread.


Have a good week everybody,

[64chevtruck]

Few new pics, Heres one of the 20s mocked up on the front, Looks like Ill be losing some more inner fender well,.....

Heres where my bags rub on my new LCAs....... Do they all do that or just mine? Air lift 2600s.

[chuckmc8]

How close is that crossover exhaust pipe to the wood bed floor?

[NEWFISHER]

I would modify the LCA brace next to the ball joint where the bag touches. A nice curved tube that would wrap around the bag would look good and stiff offer the support needed there.

[64chevtruck]

Originally Posted by chuckmc8

How close is that crossover exhaust pipe to the wood bed floor?

Howdy Chuck, Its 3 or 4 inches away from the wood. I think its far enough away to be safe. Im not sure how hot the exhaust gets that far back from the motor but Ill get under there and check it out before I put it back on the ground,



Newfisher_
I would modify the LCA brace next to the ball joint where the bag touches. A nice curved tube that would wrap around the bag would look good and stiff offer the support needed there.

I must admit im not happy about the bag rubbing, I bought the damn tube lcas for 700 because my stock mod was barely touching, I will alter them like you mentioned as a last resort if I have to, Ill try a different set of adapters or try to make a set that works first,

Have a good weekend

[64chevtruck]

Ok now that Im done crying about my bags rubbing, Ive looked it over and Ill adapt some bag plates I have to raise the bags up 1.5 inches, I had some strips of steel I bent into rings, then fit the rings into the bag plates and tacked. Ill weld em in at an angle so the bag alignment is better. Not real happy about losing that amount of drop so if Im not happy with the altitude, I will tear the bags back out and totally re model the LCAs for max droppage.

AND Ill trim the LCAs near the ball joints like Newfisher suggested.

If your running air bags I would suggest not being tight like me and trying to save a few dollars, In the future Ill be going with some PB LCAs that are made for air bags and save alot of wasted time/tears,

Oh yea for anyone keeping up, I decided to cut some plates and shim my crossmember BACK UP a half inch so I wouldnt have to move all my steering and do more frame notches. Everything bolted up fine, I had to shim the motormounts the same half inch also. So I ended up with a 1.5 inch drop on the CM.

A few pix


Have a good week!

[64chevtruck]

I started out doing it cold but ended up throwing em in the forge.

I made the slots in the bag plate longer also so I could move the bottom of the bag out towards the ball joint, so it clears the inside bar on the LCA.

Heres a pic of the new bag plate in place, it took care of 2 out of 3 rubbing issues, when compressed all the way it rubs out by the Ball Joint so Ill be notching the LCAs tomorrow,

Have a good week.

[64chevtruck]

So I got my new sideplates and a cats eye reflector recently,

Heres a pic of my 1971 Cadillac 472/500 I picked up a few years ago, (Anyone know how to tell the difference?) Its for my next chev truck, It was in my buddys cad we drove around for years, it had bull horns on the hood and we chopped the roof off with a sawzall. He eventually scrapped it but sold me the motor and turbo 400 trans for 100 dollars before it went, Many foot pounds of torque I cant wait to use again,

Finally broke down and bought a nice welder and large Argon tank,



Got one side of my front end completed, and all the air lines ran, I have to make the other bag adapter and notch the LCA still on the other side,

My tie rod hits the CM on the drivers side since the pancake so I guess I have to notch the CM pinch weld a bit to let the center of the tie rod swing right,

Have a good week.

[64chevtruck]

Heres a shot of the middle of the bed up after the hinges were installed, I need to find some hatchback shox to hold it up still, I mounted a cooler under the lid for storage but Ill remove it and hide my tiny compressor under there ASAP,.

Heres a shot of the boring side of my motor before I start installing my goodies and braided lines, Oops I guess I have the first heater hose ran there, Ill take one later after its done for comparison,

I hope to have it back on the ground tomorrow, ill post a video of my motor and maybe a smoke show,,,

sway bar and driver side tomorrow,

Have a good week.

[NEWFISHER]

Meow, kool katz eye

[64chevtruck]

Finally got the front end together and put some miles on the truck yesterday,

Problems

*Need to correct pinion angle, and adjust carrier bearing,

*Tie rods rub CM at certain heights, need to grind more.

*After the pancake, the transmission is what the truck sits on now.

*Need to cut more out of the front fenders for more clearance.

Questions.

Do the aftermarket trans x members raise them up>?

Are these the right shims for my truck?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Belltech-Kit...e3f31f&vxp=mtr



Thanks for your time,

Have a good weekend.

[1963c-10]

Only things I know about the caddy engine....brother in law had a 68 w/472.
75-76 from the factory were all 500's except for the Seville which had an EFI olds 350.
67-69 all cars came with 472
70-74 Eldos came with 500's others 472.
67-69 same block
70-76 same block (minor changes to oil system and clearance for 500 crank)
67-73 small chamber heads (high or low comp depending on pistons)
74-76 large chamber heads (low comp only)
472 & 500 different crank and pistons otherwise same

I helped him out with the car a lot and the caddy guys here said that the 368, 425, 472 & 500 were pretty much the same engines minus crank and rods.

I know the HEI was standard on these engines in 1974 and if its a factory HEI then its probably a 500. I know you said it came from a 1971....do you know which model? My guess would be its a 500. I don't know if it helps any, but its what I can add to try and help you. You should be able to find some caddy forums that may help more with the engine ID.

[1963c-10]

Heres some eye candy for you....its a 500 caddy

[64chevtruck]

Thanks for the info 63C, thats alot more than I knew about em before, The one in the second post makes me drool for sure,

After a day of ironing some issues out, I got ready to take er out for the second day in a row for testing, BUT I noticed that when I lowered my truck the front tires are pointed at each other...... No wonder it made that howling sound when I drove it down the road at a low stance the day before...... (I didnt call the thread noob style for nothing)


Duhh, the 3 piece tie rod pulls the front tires in as you let the air out to lower the stance, SO before I left I ran each tie rod out about 3/4 of an inch, It drove alot better needless to say,

Have a good weekend.

[NEWFISHER]

Yes, those 4 degree shims will work, but if you need them now you wont when you change the engine /trans angle when you raise them up. unless you raise the engine and the trans the same amount and then if 4 degrees is what you need they will work. If you are going to address the trans issue before this you will first need to raise the engine slightly, tilt the trans tail shaft up ( try to stay at 2-3 degrees downward) and build a spacer for the tail mount or raise your crossmember and add spacers to the frame end or fab a new one. Then measure your diff yoke and see where you are. You want to be between 2 and 3 degrees (difference or less) than the tail shaft ,as the diff points up for ujoint cancellation. Then order the correct shims if needed. You can always cut the tube stands and loosely assemble the ubolts, rock the pinion to set the angle then weld the stands back on. More time than money theory

[Jer64]

good job on the truck, I really like how the wood bed turned out!

[64chevtruck]

Thank you Jer64! Ill be watching your build so keep the pics coming man,

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Yes, those 4 degree shims will work, but if you need them now you wont when you change the engine /trans angle when you raise them up. unless you raise the engine and the trans the same amount and then if 4 degrees is what you need they will work. If you are going to address the trans issue before this you will first need to raise the engine slightly, tilt the trans tail shaft up ( try to stay at 2-3 degrees downward) and build a spacer for the tail mount or raise your crossmember and add spacers to the frame end or fab a new one. Then measure your diff yoke and see where you are. You want to be between 2 and 3 degrees (difference or less) than the tail shaft ,as the diff points up for ujoint cancellation. Then order the correct shims if needed. You can always cut the tube stands and loosely assemble the ubolts, rock the pinion to set the angle then weld the stands back on. More time than money theory

Hehe,,.. Ok thank you for your time once again NF,

I didnt know about raising the transmission yet. You are right I will adress the trans problem first so I dont catch it on the rail road tracks. Plus it stopping my truck from dropping....and that dont sit right,


by raise the engine slightly, Did you mean shim up the trans mount>? Or motor and trans both>:?

If I do this will I have to change the clutch pivot point?

The terms Ujoint cancelation and measure the diff yoke, to find degrees are new to me, I will start researching how to do this now and research the trans mods as well.

Have a good weekend guys.

[Lowl!f3]

Those tubular lca's are made to be used with bag cups. I see you figured it out and did an awesome job.
However I have not read 100% of the thead yet. I did join the ride by subscribing for later info I will need when I bag my 65 LWB c10. That has a 230 IL6. I do have some questions tho.

1. That intake, Is it the one for duel 1 barrel carbs. And you used 2 barrel adapters? If not, can you point me to the intake? Also I would like to be pointed to where you picked up the carbs please.

2. Why did you decide to not use the LCA's you made? What size plate did you use to tub them out please? Did you make the plates or buy them?


Keep up the build progress. Im liking it. My goal is to go low as possible without buying porterbuilt stuff or having to Z. Some people cant really pay the price for those parts. And I dont believe in the saying "You got to pay to play"

P.S. Get you a protractor. Then to understand pinion angle. Look up online how to set pinion angle.
It is pretty easy to do. Just remember 1 thing. "Set your pinion angle at ride height." ( The height you will be driving the truck )

[64chevtruck]

Hi there, Lowl!f3 , Thank you, Im still in the process of getting the bags to sit just right, and trimming up the LCAs so it all works without rubbing. Almost done though , and ill have my buddy weld in extra plates on the LCAs to reinforce what I cut out,

The intake is just the normal one for single carbs you see all over ebay, I took it to the Welding shop and had the temp plugs welded solid.

Carbs, 2 to one adapters, air filters, Intake heater, headers, and linkage all come from Tom Langdon.

The bags rubbed on the stock LCAs I cupped, Now that they are off a truck Ill just take time and alter them a bit more on the bench, and use them on my next truck, Im startin a fleet :O)

I cupped them with 1/4 plate steel, I made the patterns and took them to a local fab shop and had them cut out, I welded them together, it was cheep and would have worked fine if Id made the cups as big as possible the first time.

After I raise my trans Ill figure my ride height, then pinion angle if I been readiing right,

Have a good week.

[Lowl!f3]

I met a friend on here who already informed me of the 1-1/2" pancake. "realnoisy" He lives fairly close.
Did you have to tunnel for the trans when you pankcaked?
im using the old 3 speed.
Where you pick the carbs up? And who is Tom Langdon?

The bags you used. Are they 2600 up front and 2500 in rear? Or all 2600?
I already have a complete bag kit I had for a 95 s10 ext cab. 2600/2500.
But if I need 2 more 2600 that will be fine.

Also I noticed discussion on setting up your bags. So you run each bag separately. Not just front and back.
So your running 8 selinoids? Or 6?

4 lifts and 2 dumps
or
4 lifts and 4 dumps?

Sorry for blasting so many questions. Im getting my gear together to start busting into my truck. I hate waiting on stuff. However it always ends up that way....
I have a complete front k memeber from an 86 c10. Thats my disc conversion & steering linkage.
I have a full bag setup from my S10.
5 gallon tank
2 444c viair compressor
4 bag selinoids
1 dual needle
1 pressure switch
2 2600 bags with upper and lower cups
2 2500 bags and bag b4ackets with 2 link bars
2 link will not work for the 65 unless I do a complete frame swap. which will infact lay body of the 65. Only problem then will be buying custom wheels for around 3k because of a special back space/offset to make the wheel come out under the fender wells to look correct.

What I will need for the 65 frame is...
Steering box
Master cylinder
Hydro boost
Brake lines
Upper bag brackets for front and rear.
lower brackets for rear
Rear axel with 5 lug patern. Already know where one is. 342 gear.

[64chevtruck]

Hi, I run paddle switches , one bag to each, I have 2600s in front and smaller ones in back.

Finally got the LCAs whittled out enough for clearance on the bags, Im right in the middle of mounting my fat sway bar up and only hours away from being done with my front end finally.

I just cut some angle iron and mounted it to the LCAs, Im trying to figure out If I should use the mounting brackets for the front of the swaybar or just bolt it to the frame like I have it sitting in the pic>?

Ill be raising the tailshaft of my transmission next,

Have a good week

[64chevtruck]

I ended up just bolting the front of the sway bar up a half inch back from where the pics show, straight to the frame.

The bar seems to work good, but the more I look at the picture, It looks like it would have made the angles better If I would have put the front brackets in there,,,,

Still may do that but Im on to raising my trans next,

Have a good weekend

[64chevtruck]

Still havent raised my motor and trans,..... Been driving it as much as possible. Need to do that before I crack the case open,

I pulled the arm rest off and covered it in black leather,

Paint and spikes

More braided lines

Next to come ,

Raise trans and motor, move compressor to frame rail. One more coat of paint on the door panel.

Have a good week.

[64chevtruck]

new broken stuff