49 3600, s10 swap, project boogie

[joedoh]

yeah the nearest I can figure is photobucket wants to force me to use albums. I drag and drop and it creates a new album for every picture. so I deleted the sub albums and switched to my backup account.





I am not going the spider cap route. Ordered some 64 buick dog dish caps and ordering some clips from brothers.

[84blaze]

****ing sweet choice on the wheels man. I totally dig these.

[joedoh]

kyle the sandbagger had these on his shelf! what a guy!



he has the rad and condensor mounts figured out.

[joedoh]

rad and condenser mounted! I have seen a lot of guys lay the stock s10 radiator back, I have even seen one with the stock s10 radiator turned sideways (which I dont think works very well haha), this works pretty well as a proof of concept. yes the hood fits. yes the factory hoses fit.

[joedoh]

picked up a good deal on a lokar shifter today

they dont make 47-53 GMC turn signals and I wanted a later park/turn anyway so BOWTIE BITS to the rescue again, got some 55 park/turns and splurged on some 55 LED tails too

love titling a 1947 in kansas, just show up with your bill of sale and insurance.


stopped by kylies to drop everything off, we talked about a revised core mount that will be only 8 parts total and will reuse the stock s10 core rubber mounts. it will have the rad mount integral also, should help out!

got my buick caps in, I like em


the local hobby lobby has chipboard in a rainbow of colors, I got raw and black.

for those not familiar with chipboard, it is what old car interiors used as glovebox material and to hide wiring and such. flexible and sturdy.

[joedoh]

one of the things that is most important to me about these builds, the 47 and the 49, is that we find a way to use as much of the donor as possible. harness, engine, trans, lots of people have done that. pedals and column, well, 82-93 guys have done it. radiator, very few have done it. HVAC, even less.
to me, as a former system engineer, it is useful to keep system components unchanged because they are working together as intended by the original design engineer intended. also, this helps you when you need to order parts. do you have a 91 pedal bracket and an 82 column and a chevy van brake switch? will the guy who buys this truck need a notebook of all the different parts? 19x22 radiator with 1/2" rubber isolators from lowes and a a B&M trans cooler? Maybe you like figuring stuff out on the fly and "making it work", my guess is that there are more than a few that want to take off a part and put it in a bin and pull it back out when its time to use it, not throw away a perfectly good radiator with integral trans cooler just because no one makes a mount that fits. not to cobble together a brake switch because the pedal assembly is different. I am focusing on the bussed s10s, the 98-03 models, because that is what is readily available.

SO saying that. here is our first attempt at a mount to reuse the aluminum pedal/column mount and column.
stock wheel with non tilt non column shift column (you can see the lokar shifter on the floor)



bit of a nut smoosher

with a small diameter wheel though its about perfect

have to make sure the tilt shift column fits and works too, and it does. its just roped up there currently, so it will go up another inch.

kylie is going to move the whole assembly up an inch to get rid of the offset column notch and I say its GOOD.
got the hubcap clips, and got some headlights. the key to using the s10 harness for headlights is that the high and low beam use separate bulbs, and separate VOLTAGES depending on the light condition. So it is not as simple to just replace the dual bulbs with a H4 7" round, it shorts out the DRL circuit and blows the low beam fuse. One method is to build a relay system to allow the same ground wire to have the differing voltages, but I like the idea of two separate bulbs.

the only problem here is the alumnum housing shares grounds bewteen low and high beam, so I have to order H3C bulbs for the high beam that have separate terminals, the H3 uses the bulb base on the housing for ground.

stay tuned! more factory stuff coming, like the gas pedal, and eventually the S10 HVAC system.

[joedoh]

so for the huge rear tires, I ordered 3" leafs


with the 2" blocks, and the 2" "bodydrop" by placing the mounts lower on the frame, that should be a 7" drop in the rear. In the front, I am using 3" belltech coils and maybe 2" spindles, but that may be too much, so we may change that.

the s10 HVAC requires too many firewall mods for us to use on this truck so we will try it on the 49. I still want HVAC on this truck though so I ordered up a universal underdash heat and ac system.

I dont know why guys complain about not having even a heater in a bodydropped truck, this is an all in one wasnt crazy expensive.

firewall bracket done. this will be a popular bracket I think


cover the trans


doing the gauges, orginally I was going to put the stepper in the og cluster


then I looked at the dial and realized, 68 years apart and the dials were exactly the same size.


so why work harder?


need a couple ribbon cables to remote mount the steppers and PNDRL display, then I will cut out the 4 gauges for the other 47 gauge. should work a treat.

[joedoh]

test fitting bed and running boards. the 47 came with short boards and someone lazy chopped the running boards in half when they took off the bed. waste not want not, kyle used the 49 boards as a pattern and simply made a pair.



the wheel is crooked in there because he hasnt cut the inner bed for the tire yet. this thing is looking so cool, he said he is tempted to buy it when it is done!

[84blaze]

Those wheels and tires look unreal.

How long till you'll start producing your swap kit?

[joedoh]

we are in TRL 6, which is prototyping and active redesign phase, we have jigs built for body mounts and are building jigs for running boards right now. the radiator mount needs redesigned, it is not an easy enough install for the spirit of the kit so it will get changed for the 49, the 47 is a one of one haha.

I am not advertising the kit until its produced, and I will buy an upgraded forum membership when it is ready. should be three or four weeks for the basic (cab and rad) kit and another three for the running board and the steering/brake kit.

[rusty76]

I'm in on this build. Really cool.

[joedoh]

thanks!

kyle kicking ass

dont look to close at the bed floor, I will be putting a wood kit on top. this is 62chevyII trick that we copied.

rolled out, stock height suspension, going with a 3/5 drop I think. there are no wheel spacers or drop hardware installed yet.

you cant see it but kylie also changed the window glass out and pounded out the kid dents in the roof.

[rusty76]

Looking good.

[joedoh]

my buddy pauly said suckonthisaonetiime...

[joedoh]

blazer spindles installed. before it was bottoming out on the control arm, but now..


mini notch in the rear. installed the 3.73 rear axle too, those 31" tires would have made it a slug with the 3.42. bed floor clears the notches and charcoal canister

using the short body mounts only needed a small trans bump and makes the truck just look pounded when it still has a ton of travel. when it gets bagged, it will be a simple kit, no huge notches or weird toe changes.

dropped off the driveshaft to have it shortened. lining out AC lines to have them crimped. peel and seal, some electrical, some assembly, some lights, and some carpet and this should be ready to shake down.

[joedoh]

beds done!

correct tailgate

[joedoh]

driveshaft installed, 6" shorter


note the gas filler!

[rusty76]

Man that looks good

[DeanTX]

Big meats for rubber is badA$$ looking!

[99 to Life]

looking real cool

[HUSSEY]

Man, you know how to hustle, you're getting your truck done quick.

Love the look, perfect stance.

[joedoh]

Its all kylie. I do little stuff towards the end of the project but he is the heavy lifter. Although I have projects of my own, and a lot of the parts on these trucks come from my labors in the driveway, and all the finances come from the same.

thinking of mustard yellow for the wheels before we put on old chevy caps

[lower50's]

Yup very cool !!!!

[Clay54]

OK, so you are going to build a kit and the radiator mount is in "redo". I wish you good luck with the kit but in the meantime, could you/would you give me a little more detail how the inside fenders were modified to allow the radiator to be placed there. I can see the rubber mounts at the bottom but was wondering about the spacing and also what engine are you using to get all that space between radiator and firewall? Thanks, Clay

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Clay54

OK, so you are going to build a kit and the radiator mount is in "redo". I wish you good luck with the kit but in the meantime, could you/would you give me a little more detail how the inside fenders were modified to allow the radiator to be placed there. I can see the rubber mounts at the bottom but was wondering about the spacing and also what engine are you using to get all that space between radiator and firewall? Thanks, Clay

the inners were cut just to clear the rad and boxed back in, you can see it in the pictures, its painted black which is what makes it hard to see. it is flush against the core support, and cant be any higher or it will hit the hood and cant be any lower or it will hit the steering.

This truck uses a 4.3 4l60e from the donor s10 and we moved it back 5 inches, but there is oddles of room to move it back another 2-3 inches and fit a v8 with where the firewall is in relation to the trans. might need a little more of a trans tunnel.