Best Place to Put Jack/Stands

[71Dually]

Greetings pbajwabb,

to the forum.

Hope this isn't to much. I tend to try and throw in a little humor, hint at reality and just plainly be thorough about stuff. Some folks call it rambling but I call it being realistic, humorous and analy meticulous. So I'll keep on rambling baby (there's my chance so I threw in a thinly veiled Led Zeppelin lyric).

Regarding your question about jack stand placement. Everyones safety is job priority. Your own, your wifes, your kids, your grandmothers, your pet parakeets, your golf buddy and even your neighbors pet alligators safety should always be considered with any work you do. This not only includes jack placement but fire hazards, poisonous spider bites, rapidly flying articles like coil springs and proper repair procedures to achieve safe operation of the completed vehicle repair.

A jack stand is a tool. How many times has a cheap wench failed and inflicted a deep painful gouge, caused a lost fingernail in pulsating pressurized painful agony or literally broken a finger bone. There is a reason cheap tools have earned the reputation of being knuckle busters. A failed stand can definitely break more than a finger. Always buy quality, theres a reason cheap tools fail. Never trust anyone's personal safety or your trucks well being with an inferior tool to save a few bucks.

Doctors, morticians and classic chevy truck parts are expensive when compared to the price difference of cheap and quality jack stands and tools in general. Isn't it those expensive doctors that say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I believe it's them mortician folks who put all them saved pennies on everyone's eyes. I know a search of the forums will reveal the real pain of cheap classic chevy truck parts.

Use only properly rated and constructed stands in good condition. A heavier higher rated than necessary stand will provide a safety margin also. Always use them on a solid level surface and place them in a level area on the frame or solid component like the axle housing or control arm shafts. If a solid level ground surface is not available then wood planks, thick plywood and thick steel plates can be used to improvise. Improvisation is never a reliable substitute but is sometimes necessary. Never place a steel stand directly on top of a steel plate. Steel easily slides on steel, that is why the DOT mandates steel cargo be carried on wood plank bed floors. Always place a layer of wood between steel surfaces. Always use hardwood (when available) in good condition, no dry or wet rotted or termite or fire damaged materials. Minimum thickness for plywood should be 3/4". I keep a stock of hardwood planks and blocks on hand for such occasions. Always make sure any improvised support is vertically and laterally solid to prevent load shifting and keep them at a minimal height between the uneven surface and stand.

Regarding the steel to steel contact between the vehicle and the stand it is not necessary to use wood in this area as the stand heads have accommodations to prevent slipping. However the stand must be placed in a proper position on the vehicle and oriented in a manner that this accommodation will function properly. If not properly placed the stand can very rapidly slide from under a vehicle on this metal to metal contact. This is where the solid level surfaces and all the other required and optional ancillary devices come into play.

Always place the stands in a position to evenly support the load directly downward on the stand. Never place them with side to side pressure or under body sheet metal or flexible components like bumpers, sway bars and rubber bushings.

If only one wheel or axle is lifted at a time (usually the case) at a minimum always use wheel chocks (a required ancillary device) on diagonally opposite wheels to prevent side to side pressure and rolling. Never fully rely on a vehicles emergency brake as a "wheel chock" as the EB system can fail and lead to slipping off a stand. Always preload the vehicles weight into the wheel chock prior to lowering weight on the stand to prevent vehicle rolling. This can be done by not setting the emergency brake and let the tire roll into the chock as the opposite diagonal side is jacked up. Once the weight is on the chock an additional chock on the opposite side of the same tire can be used for added vehicle securement and safety.

Always check that the vehicle is secularly supported by the stand. If you give the supported area a real good 9.5 seismic shake and it feels solid then you should be good to go. If it feels like it's still on the tires and moves at all then a different stand and/or placement is necessary. If your gut don't feel safe it probably isn't. Never support it where it "should be" good. Always support it where it "is" good. That's good enough is a lot different from that's good or that's it. Do not neglect to check the wheel chocks for proper securement also.

Stands are subject to fail and have severely injured, maimed and killed many individuals when they do. Always use a backup support system (optional ancillary device but I require it) to prevent injury. A stack of tires will work but they are not designed for the job and are large and cumbersome and can get in the way. I have 4 floor jacks and always use at least one of them to offer a failsafe. Sometimes I use 2 floor jacks. Redundant failsafes offer additional security and personal safety.

While it may seem overkill and consume more time when your in a hurry redundant systems are important. To shortcut safety and drop a vehicles installed rotor on your leg could require amputation and that will really slow down your 4 minute mile or next marathon. Saving time now with shortcuts and improper procedures can cost you more than time in the future. Always take the time to do the job right, injuries and costly component failures usually result from shortcuts and being in to big of a hurry.

Since it was touched on regarding proper torquing of component fasteners. Yes, improper fastener attachment can lead to component damage and failure, even with brand new parts.

Items not mentioned regarding torquing nuts and bolts include always use fasteners in good serviceable condition. Always clean your fasteners so proper tightening can be achieved. Cleaning fasteners not only includes removing grease, oils, rust and dirt but chasing the threads with the proper taps and dies. Some fasteners (but I don't believe all) require lubrication to be properly torqued. When specifically called for in the repair procedure always lubricate the fastener prior to torquing. Also if called for in the procedures or from necessity due to age or damage replace these fasteners with ones of the same type and rating.

Something I do with all critical fasteners is torque them down. Every time. A bolt can fail from over tightening and an assembly can fail from a loose fastener. I torque everything in steps to provide consistent even pressure. For example my wheel lugs require 140 lbs. ft. I will torque them all in proper sequence, first step to 50, then 80, then 110 and finally 140. Just like cylinder head step torquing to prevent sealing component damage and/or warping from excessive uneven pressure. While not directly specified I'm sure if a cylinder head and it's gasket requires stepped torquing to prevent failures I'm pretty sure an irreplaceable Eaton brake drum and costly alloy wheel torqued to an even higher pressure will benefit from and provide perhaps longer service life from the same procedure.

My feeling is that mechanical repairs are an art form and I practice meticulous procedures. I'm pretty anal on that. A mechanics final product is a reflection of that individuals pride in their work. This pride reflects in the longevity, safety, proper operation of the repaired components and the repair or maintenance procedures used.

While there is a great amount of time by all the forum members donating their assistance to help keep our trucks safely on the road it is ultimately each individuals decision to use the procedures that reflect their work ethic and opinion for what is proper. With your posting regarding jack stand placement it shows you are concerned about yours, the alligators and perhaps even that stray armadillo's safety. With that type of work ethic I'm sure your repair will be proper and very gratifying to you. Keep up the good work.

[litew8]

Originally Posted by GRX

Threads like these always make me wonder ... how many people actually test for rotor run out with a dial indicator? Not enough that's for sure.

YouTube

[dojo]

Back to your original question of jack stand placement. I learned a very valuable lesson. My truck sits very low, I had to take exhaust off for powder coating. So, I jacked it up as good as I could.....I was in a hurry, set 2 jack stands right up front by the front horns, set 2 in back behind the fuel cell. Kind of really wasn't thinking, after about 2 weeks of my exhaust gone and it just sitting there on jack stands, I was looking at it and for some reason.... the doors would not close nicely, and the top of the bed was 1/2 " away from the cab and the bottom of the bed was 2" away from the bed....you guessed it, the truck was flexing BAD. Scared the crap out of me, got the exhaust back the night I noticed it, installed and dropped the truck back down as fast as I could. We think it flexed back to its original position. Beware, they will flex, never put jack stands on each "end" of vehicle. Put them closer to the middle to support evenly.