Starting a new build...

[not2oldchevy]

I went through the same install problems on my AD. I think the instructions and boxing plates are for the TF trucks!!!

[gearhead2069]

Originally Posted by not2oldchevy

I went through the same install problems on my AD. I think the instructions and boxing plates are for the TF trucks!!!

The plates actually fit pretty well for me. It was the dimensions of the crossmember that killed me!

[gearhead2069]

Got a little time to clean up he frame a little and throw down some temporary primer to protect it while I get some more work done before powder coating post mock. Crossmember almost looks like it belongs there!

[drivea55]

That came out looking really nice man!

I am totally enjoying this build, Keep up the good work

Brian

[gearhead2069]

Originally Posted by drivea55

That came out looking really nice man!

I am totally enjoying this build, Keep up the good work

Brian

Thanks Brian!

[pvienneau]

Margarita time

[gearhead2069]

Originally Posted by pvienneau

Margarita time

Psh, way too early for that! I'll be sure to have one once it rolls!

[gearhead2069]

Had some time to work out my issue with needing to mock up some coilovers. 15 dollar solution to an irritating problem.



These magnets are awesome! Well worth the added expense!















So with that taken care of, we are not sitting comfortably on two wheels minus some jack stands!

[gearhead2069]

Sorry guys, it's been a while since I've been able to post. Figured it was time for an update. So, where I left off I had for the most part finished the front suspension lack flipping the frame and welding in and finishing up the bottom portions (because I absolutely suck at welding upside-down).

I am just going to start with saying... the rear suspension was a bear! It was a pain (as I am doing this myself) getting everything leveled out and in the correct dimension to get this thing roughed in. I recommend having an additional set of hands if they are available. I have one floor jack and eight jack stands and at one point I was looking around and counting because I was often times thinking "I could have sworn I had one more stand"!

So here we go...

Had to put part of the bed together so I could see where I was going to make my wheel centers. I got pretty excited just laying the rear suspension below the rails so I decided I needed a picture of it. Quite a moral booster to pick a truck up in pieces, bringing it home in a box truck, then going to actually seeing four wheels under it.





Actually looks like a truck... well, half of one!



Putting that bed together was a bit of a pain because I'm kind of new at this. I will need to post some pictures of how everything was put together just so that no one else will deal with the same crap. Seems like I searched forever trying to figure it out with no real help in the matter.

Got the inside of the frame rails cleaned up a little where I was not going to be able to get back in with the soda blaster.



Tacked in the boxing plates. I was pretty impressed with the fitment, they actually did a pretty good job and required very minimal grinding on the ends to get that "L" shape.



I stiched them in once I liked the position better just because I didn't want to take the chance of having the cross-members tacked in and everything break loose after I've taken the time to get every measurement spot on.





Used clamps and those welding magnets to give me an extra set of hands in holding the cross-member and diff up.



It wasn't until the front cross-member was tacked in that it was brought to my attention that it had a pretty significant warp in the metal due to where the bracket was welded in.... so off it had to come again.



So for some guys on a bit of a budget... I don't have have an oxy/acet torch as my plan was to heat the metal on the opposing side then cool it with a rag to see if I can get the metal to over correct and shrink on that side. I first tried it with a propane torch... and that was pathetic. So I decided to lay some beads on the back end on the cross-member to give me a good bit of heat then grind the welds off once it was straight. Success!







Got the half shafts set at the correct angle and mounted the trailing arm brackets in. You need to bolt these in but there were no existing holes on my frame that aligned very well. Once I decided where I wanted them, I just clamped them and tacked them to the frame. That way I wasn't going to have to worry with them moving at all while I was trying to drill the holes. once I had the holes drilled I just cut the tacks and ground them off. Worked out pretty well.



I then sat the tires on the ground, lowered the frame back down for the correct angle on the half shafts, stood back and checked out how it looked and like it! I made everything permanent and here we are!



Did the same thing as the front with home brew "mock coil-overs".



It is a fantastic thing to have temporarily put up all my jack stands! Sitting on it's own four wheels!





I ended up going with a two inch rake. I think it looks pretty good especially considering where it started!

I guess the next thing is that I need to get my fuel tank situation figured out. I want to move it from inside the cab for obvious reasons and I am hoping to let it rest between the rails behind the rear suspension. I am going to have to move that cross member out of the way but I am more than okay with that. I want to go with a side mount filler neck as I'd like to make it come out of the side of the fender. A bed fill just isn't where I'm wanting to go with it. I also need one that will work with EFI as I still plan on going with that LS3. I have been digging around many different forums and none are really floating my boat very well. I would prefer something that doesn't hang too low below the frame rails and isn't quite as noticeable from the back. Any help, suggestions, or recommendations would be much appreciated. I saw one post where a guy used a manufacture called Docs Kustom. The tank that he makes for these trucks is actually not too bad and doesn't even require you to move the cross-member but doesn't really have the capacity. I really like the look of the Camaro tank that he has available and I'm pretty sure it will fit just right between the rails. I sent him an email to see if he can change a few things around such as relocating the filler neck and maybe modifying it to take a submersible pump from a later model Chevrolet *place model here* just to make it easier in the future should the fuel pump decide to give up the ghost and I need to make an emergency run to the local auto parts store.

I don't know, like I said... If anyone has any suggestions let me know.

[FarmerSid]

Looks awesome gearhead! Glad you are showing lots of pictures and explaining things as you go.

What tire rim combo are you planning on running?
How high off the ground do you plan on having your running boards?

I'm going to be picking your head on some measurements soon if that's alright. I'm at the stage where I need to figure out what size tire I want to run and buy them before I can install my Vette suspension. I want to go as wide as possible in the rear but have some side wall too.

[Chris.]

Originally Posted by gag1025

You would be better off purchasing a front IFS kit from Scott's Hot Rods. They have both weld on and bolt on kits for far less money. That way you get to keep your '53 frame. I installed a bolt on kit and with most bolt on kit designs boxing is unnecessary. My 350 has over 300 horses and there has never been a problem. I Do plan on adding front and rear torsion bars for stability. Since I am not interested in drag racing and have no need to hook up the rear wheels, I decide not to use a 4 link rear suspension system.

I'll 2nd that I have a weld in Scott's hot rods super slam ifs (bagged) I have been into custom suspension stuff for years and have never gotten as nice a product as I got from them

[Chris.]

http://www.scottshotrods.com/front-s...rd-weld-on-ifs

Call them they are super nice and helpful tell them what your trying to do and budget and they will help you

[Roadkill58]

The stance looks great.

Going with original chassis and upgrading to C4 suspension was a smart move.

All your parts will be over the counter replacements from any part supplier and not relying on aftermarket to ship parts.

.

[gearhead2069]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Looks awesome gearhead! Glad you are showing lots of pictures and explaining things as you go.

What tire rim combo are you planning on running?
How high off the ground do you plan on having your running boards?

I'm going to be picking your head on some measurements soon if that's alright. I'm at the stage where I need to figure out what size tire I want to run and buy them before I can install my Vette suspension. I want to go as wide as possible in the rear but have some side wall too.

Thanks FarmerSid.

I'm still not entirely sure with the tires and wheels. My plan is to go with an 18 inch wheel and I'd like the tire profile to be either a 35 or 45. I guess I'll have to see when the time comes. As far as how wide I can go, I'd like to go as wide as possible. Once I start feeling a little more comfortable with having an idea of what my space is going to be within the front fenders, I'll have to start looking into it. My plan is that I'd like to go as wide as the front will allow me to go then mimicking it for the rear. As my plan is to drive the crap out of this thing when I'm done with it, I'd like to keep the front and rear the same to allow me to rotate the tires for good wear.

As far as measurements, like I've mentioned before, I am fairly new to this game but I will certainly provide any information I can!

[gearhead2069]

Well, I woke up this afternoon and before heading off to work I find a package at the front door. I couldn't stand it and had to check to see how it would fit. I ended up going with a tank from Tanks Inc. It is the 1941-48 Ford and 1939-48 Mercury steel tank for EFI. The dimensions as described on the site (33-1/2" x 19" x 8") appear as if it will fit pretty well. It has a 17 gallon capacity which is a little less than what I was after (20), but I think that will be fine. Being that it was just a little over 200 bucks, that certainly came out to be a more appealing option than the price I was going to have for a custom tank.

Obviously there is a little camera angle trick going on here, but it should fit pretty well once the cross-member is out.



Looking at the side profile, I think this will hang pretty well.



I think the tank for the blazer was around 10 or 10 1/2 inches deep; so, with this one coming in at 8, hopefully that will be enough.

[FarmerSid]

Looks good gearhead. Tank should tuck up nice. Seeing that you have a bedside on, could you get me a few measurements. The distance from the bedside to the frame and the width of the fender well. From the bedside to the wheel opening lip if the fender.

Thanks!

[gearhead2069]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Looks good gearhead. Tank should tuck up nice. Seeing that you have a bedside on, could you get me a few measurements. The distance from the bedside to the frame and the width of the fender well. From the bedside to the wheel opening lip if the fender.

Thanks!

I'll be out of town this weekend but when I get back I'll be sure to PM you.

[FarmerSid]

How's things coming along gearhead?

[gearhead2069]

My schedule has been fairly stacked here recently so time for big progress is few and far in between.

Had a few hours to spare the other day and I was able to run some wire to get the new compressor wired in. This should make things more fun for sure.



Once I got all that worked out I did get a chance to place the new rear cross-member. I wanted to have that in before pulling the old cross-member to make room for the tank.







So not a whole lot of progress... But progress is progress I guess.

[pvienneau]

looks very nice.

[FarmerSid]

Nice compressor! That rear cross member should protect the gas tank pretty good. Ever tried a flap disk on your grinder?

This is what I use. Various grits and leave a nice finish.

http://www.mmsonline.com/products/du...increased-life

[solidaxel]

Did you try and fit up the rear x member for the bed to the frame, as I had to move mine AFTER it was all welded in!
Take a look at your bed parts and make sure they fit with the frame cross member you have
As for a fuel pump (in Tank) I have had great success with a stock pump for a 2003 Camaro, just sayin'.

[gearhead2069]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Nice compressor! That rear cross member should protect the gas tank pretty good. Ever tried a flap disk on your grinder?

This is what I use. Various grits and leave a nice finish.

http://www.mmsonline.com/products/du...increased-life

I do use a flap disks but normally when I'm closer to doing finish work. I usually use a grinding disk prior the the flap disk just because the regular grinding disks are faster... And in my mind, the faster I get grinding done- the less time I have the disk rotating on the metal- less friction on the surface- less chance of warp due to heat transfer.

Well... Makes sense in my feeble mind anyway.

[gearhead2069]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Did you try and fit up the rear x member for the bed to the frame, as I had to move mine AFTER it was all welded in!
Take a look at your bed parts and make sure they fit with the frame cross member you have
As for a fuel pump (in Tank) I have had great success with a stock pump for a 2003 Camaro, just sayin'.

Yep, rear bed to frame crossmember fits. I think I avoided the issue with cutting a "C" notch out of the steel tube to fit "into" the frame rails. You can sorta see how I did it with the previous picture of the rear crossmember prior to it being welded in (The one where the jack is holding it up). The only thing I have to watch for is not boxing myself into a corner with covering up access to those bolt holes that mount the bed to frame crossmember until I make a fix that will allow me to have good access to that bolt.

[gearhead2069]

Had another opportunity for progress last night so I capitalized.

Got the old crossmember removed.



Taped up the areas on the frame rails that I needed to remove for boxing the rails.



I wanted to do this install and make it easy to remove the tank from both the top (without the bed in), and the bottom (so that I wouldn't have to remove the bed later should the pump go out). I made some plate brackets that will be bolted in on both the tank and the crossmember that the tank will mount to.



In trying to stick to the plan of making the frame as air tight as possible (trying to keep moisture out), I want to make sure that the bolt holes won't allow anything to get inside the rails so I took a piece of steel tube, cut it to size, and drilled out an enlarged hole for it to be welded on the inside. Once I finished it up, I was pretty happy with the results. I'll just need to find the most abrasion resistant coating I can find to make sure that the inside of the steel doesn't rust. My bolts are stainless but I'd still like to have the precaution. If anyone has any experience in this, let me know your suggestions.







Boxing plates put in for mounting the crossmembers (I am only boxing as little as possible for now just because I don't know when I may need access to the inside of the rails during the mock build. I will box them in completely once everything is finished and every hole that I need is located).







Rear tank crossmember mounted to the rear tank crossmember. My original plan was to make a small space between the two but the more I thought about it, the more I though of how much of a pain it would be to wash the dirt out of in between and more of an opportunity to rust as it would be difficult to get a really good coat of paint in there... Solution: just weld them together.



I just tacked in the front tank crossmember with the tank in and decided to take pictures at that point just because the tank would need to be removed again to get good access for making it permanent. Once I tacked it in, removed the tank, and got the crossmember completely welded in, there was no reason to put the tank back in as my next step is to pull everything off of the frame. Everything is coming off the frame again because I still have a few old factory brackets that need to be removed and I need to flip the frame (as stated earlier... My upside down welding skills are substandard).

Here are the pictures of the tank mounted in its permanent location. I am keeping the plastic on for protection since it will be moving back to it's temporary residence (the attic) until completion. The plastic is a bit difficult to see through, but you should be able to get a pretty good idea of where everything sits. I have a lot more room than it appears between the top of the tank and the bottom of the black member that mounts the bed. Plenty of room for fuel lines. I am really excited about where the filler neck is sitting. My plan is that it will go to the rear fender. since my plan is to use the bed of the truck more like a trunk, I didn't like the idea of having to lift the bed cover, drop the tail gate, and slide my backpack out of the way to fill it with gas. Fender mount filler neck it will be. I also like how the bottom of the tank should be completely covered once the bumper goes in.











Well... That's about it for now. I'm pretty happy with progress so far. I guess I have plenty of tedious little inexpensive things to do now to keep things moving while I save up for the engine/tranny.