Voltage issue - Gauge Cluster and wiring Questions

[greywurm]

Originally Posted by davepl

Back to your initial problem though, why not install a volt gauge instead? It'll tell you a lot more than either an ammeter or idiot light.

The dummy light was just a temp idea to troubleshoot while I wait to find an ammeter. I want to go back to stock as much as I can to get it working like it should, then I can get cute and add mods one at a time where I see fit. Which is why I haven't upgraded to an internal alternator... I would just be adding more variables to the equation and I don't want to do that in the middle of a problem.

The idea of a voltmeter over an ammeter is a good idea. Just not the right time IMHO.

[VetteVet]

Here's a good thread for you to check out . Did you look at the other one I posted?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=581719

[greywurm]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Here's a good thread for you to check out . Did you look at the other one I posted?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=581719

Thanks VetteVet, I'll check it out. I read the one about alternator conversions and the other articles at rowand.com. Pretty interesting stuff.

[greywurm]

OK. Great news...

The other day I had noticed that the clip for the blue/white wires from the regulator and the alternator were spliced together... And that the white was spliced to black. I hadn't noticed this before a couple days ago, but the blue wire goes to the Engine side post on the diagram. Even though it was spliced blue to blue, in the connector, the blue wire went to the outside post.

I respliced it but that didn't help. Today I tried a new regulator and bam... 13.38 volts. And the moment I connected it, I heard the alternator kick in.

Voltage of 13.38 i think is a little low @ the battery though. You guys think I am good now or should I look into something else?

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by greywurm

OK. Great news...

The other day I had noticed that the clip for the blue/white wires from the regulator and the alternator were spliced together... And that the white was spliced to black. I hadn't noticed this before a couple days ago, but the blue wire goes to the Engine side post on the diagram. Even though it was spliced blue to blue, in the connector, the blue wire went to the outside post.

I respliced it but that didn't help. Today I tried a new regulator and bam... 13.38 volts. And the moment I connected it, I heard the alternator kick in.

Voltage of 13.38 i think is a little low @ the battery though. You guys think I am good now or should I look into something else?

Here's a good diagram of the stock engine harness. Notice the blue wire goes to F and the white wire goes to R on the alternator. The diagram shows it as a black wire because a white wire on a white background just wouldn't show up.
13.38 is a bit low but it may get better with a run in. You may see some dimming headlights at idle, but at run speed they should be OK. Did you reground the regulator to the radiator support and to the alternator?

We can talk about the headlight relay mod when you are ready and the conversion to HEI ignition, then to the internal regulated alternator after you get all the mods done. See there's never an end to it.

[greywurm]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Here's a good diagram of the stock engine harness. Notice the blue wire goes to F and the white wire goes to R on the alternator. The diagram shows it as a black wire because a white wire on a white background just wouldn't show up.

I guess I didn't describe how the wiring was... Sorry, I'm not always good at that. The wires from the regulator were spliced to a different connector to the alternator that had the blue wire in the wrong terminal. Whoever did the splice connected blue to blue. I understood the diagram that the "black" wire in the diagram is actually white because it was labeled. See image below. This is after I fixed them being backwards.

Originally Posted by VetteVet

13.38 is a bit low but it may get better with a run in. You may see some dimming headlights at idle, but at run speed they should be OK. Did you reground the regulator to the radiator support and to the alternator?

I was expecting to be closer to 14 to be honest. Maybe thats a high expectation with the lower amp/externally regulated stock alternator? I haven't driven her at night yet, but I tried the lights out last night with it running at idle and I was blown away because they actually lit up the ground in front of them. They were next to useless before. The regulator is grounded. I actually even still have a ground wire that I added while trying to figure this out running from the same post to the ground on the alt.

Originally Posted by VetteVet

We can talk about the headlight relay mod when you are ready and the conversion to HEI ignition, then to the internal regulated alternator after you get all the mods done. See there's never an end to it.

The headlight relay is my next project! I've been reading it over a couple times, but not totally sure on everything yet. I already have HEI from the PO. I think I am going to roll with the current alternator since I just bought it and have my old one still (it is still good according to tests I had done). But once I start to draw more current than it can handle I'll do the upgrade. I am also a little concerned if I get to that point I need to upgrade the harness(es). Idk when to say my wiring is insufficient.